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NOTES OF TRAVEL! 



Being a 



JOURNAL OF A TOUR IN EUROPE. 



BY 

% g'"" JOHN P. HIESTER, M. D. 



PHILADELPHIA : 
JAMES M. CAMPBELL, 98 CHESTNUT STREET, 

GEORGE & WAYNE, No. 26, S. FIFTH ST. 



18 45. 



Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1844, in the 
Clerk's Office of tfte District Court of the Eastern District of Penn- 
grlvania. 






\V 



BOTER & GETZ, PBINTEBS, READING, PA. 



PREFACE. 



In common, perhaps, with the majority of persons inhabiting this West- 
ern Continent, did I entertain, at an early period of my life, a strong 
desire to visit the great Eastern World — the land of my forefathers, and 
the source of all our institutions, civil and religious ; except that one, that 
greatest of all institutions, the institution of Liberty and self-government. 
Nor is it at all singular, that by commencing the study of a profession, 
whose annals are so richly stored by the labours of its eminent European 
members, whose practical utility has been so much enhanced by observa- 
tions conducted in those immense and well regulated European hospitals, 
this desire should be increased. Bound, however, by the force of circum- 
stances, after entering upon the active duties of my arduous calling, I had 
almost relinquished every idea of having my wish gratified, when by mis- 
fortunes incident to human life, operating on a constitution already en- 
feebled, it became necessary for a while to intermit my labours. This ap- 
peared to me a favourable season, not only for gratifying a long entertained 
desire, and benefiting my health, but also for comparing the practice of 
my profession in my own country, with that of foreign lands ; and thus 
rendering myself more useful to my fellow-citizens, whose confidence I 
have had the honor so extensively to enjoy. 

With this motive, and these views, then, I left my home and ray friends, 
on the 16th of April, 1841, to complete my arrangements in the cities o ^ 
Philadelphia and New York, previously to my embarcation. 

As the places and objects I visited on my tour, have been again and 
again described, and by very many far abler pens than my own, and as I 
have not the least ambition to aspire to authorship, I shall give a simple 
narrative of my wanderings, in the journal form, in the order in which 
the objects were viewed, and the impressions made from day to day ; prun- 
ing redundancies, or adding explanatory details, as occasion may require. 

Permit me, then, to address to you, my dear R., the following pages* 
which must necessarily be imperfect in many respects ; but this will de- 
mand no excuse on my part from you, who know so well the circumstances 



Ir PREFACE. 

under which they were penned. If they will serve you to while awaj an 
idle moment, and to recall to my own recollection, scenes and objects that 
must ever remain dear to me, they will have fully answered their design. 



Note. — Nearly the whole of these pages were originally published in the 
^^Reoding- Gazette;" — with what design and under w'hat feelings, must 
fully appear from the preceding preface, which is introduced unaltered. 
The manner of their publication, will also account for many trivialities 
that will be noticed in them, I would merely add, that their republica- 
tion has been undertaken for a benevolent object. 
Readixg, Pa., Pec. 18, 1844. 



JOURNAL OF A TOUR IN EUROPE, 



MAY— 1841. 



1st. — ^Stept on board the beautiful packet-ship Utica, Capt.' 
J. Pell, bound to Havre, at 11 o'clock, A. M., with feelings 
of the most indescribable character; a kind of vacillation be- 
tween the highly pleasurable and the painful, mingled with 
a sort of vague apprehension; for it was the first time I was 
about to commit myself to the mercy of a new element, and 
lose sight of that earth, which from long habit I was accus- 
tomed to view as infinitely more secure than the ten miles 
depth of ocean, I was about to traverse. At 12 § P. M., our 
anchor was weighed to the merry song of "ho cheerlymen!'' 
of our sturdy crew, so well known to all who have made a 
sea-voyage ; we were taken in tow by a steamer, and drove 
out through the magnificent bay of New York, in a style 
that old Neptune himself might have envied ; and passsing 
the Narrows in a few hours, Ave were fairly upon the bosom 
of the mighty deep. Our trim white sails were now hoisted 
to the breeze, and the steamer being cut loose, the noble ship 
began to move majestically over the waters, with a long ris- 
ing and falling motion, that was highly agreeable to myself, 
although some of our passengers were disagreeably affected 
by it. Taking my position in an unobserved place upon deck,' 
I commenced a close scrutiny of the novel scene around me, 
and very naturally, the appearance and conduct of the offi- 
cers and crew first attracted my attention. The mild and 
quiet, but decided manner of our amiable captain, the hear- 
ty co-operation of our intelligent looking mates, and the 
unhesitating and prompt " aye, aye, sir,'' of our crew, in- 
spired me with the most entire confidence in our equipment)' 

1 



6 NOTES or TRAVEL. 

My fellow-passengers, 17 in number, who were to share with 
me all the dangers and all the pleasures of a voyage of un- 
known duration, and on whose character and conduct I was 
about to become so dependant for my comforts, could of course 
not fail to excite my liveliest interest. To know something of 
their tastes, their manners, their views and their modes of 
thinking, was an object by no means indifferent to me ; and 
this seemed the more difficult, as well as interesting, from the 
heterogeneous mixture of individuals from several nations. 
They were Swiss, English, German, French, Danish and 
American. The Great Western passed us to the South, 
about 3 P. M., Eastward bound, like ourselves, leaving her 
long trail of black smoke stretched along the horizon, and 
exhibiting one of the most magnificent examples of human 
ingenuity, and enterprize of modern days. The long streak 
of land exhibited by Long Island, was just assuming the ap- 
pearance of a mere mist, when the Pilot, the last link that 
bound me to my dear country, descended over the side of 
the ship, and was soon seen on the deck of his beautiful boat, 
which turned its prow to the West and skipt over the waters 
with the grace of a swan. 

2d. — This was my first night at sea. Having full confi- 
dence in our gallant ship, I went to bed and slept soundly. 
At half past 4, 1 turned out, and went on deck, to see the sun 
rise. It was a lovely, calm and cool morning ; land had dis- 
appeared, and there was nothing in sight but the vast deep 
blue canopy over my head, and the fearful extent of the 
mighty ocean beneath me. The Eastern sky was already 
gilded by the soft light of the sun's approaching rays. There 
was a long narrow cloud, the only one above the horizon, 
stretching far to the North and South, which now began to 
assume the hue of molten gold, running ofi" at each extrem- 
ity into the softest purple, until it mingled with the sober gray 
of the morning mist. My eye was turned with the most in- 
tense expectation to a spot on the far distant horizon which 
was increasing every moment in brightness, when, by a sud- 
den long swell of the sea, our beautiful vessel, with all her 
canvass spread to the light morning breeze, was struck by the 
first horizontal rnys which spread a flood of gold over her 



NOTES OF TRAVEL. 7 

elegant form ! JNIy heart leaped within me for joy, and I was 
unable to repress an involuntary exclamation of delight. 
Such moments as these are the few of unalloyed pleasure 
which man is permitted to enjoy here below ! A great ma- 
ny sea-gulls are flitting around our vessel, and there are a 
number of sail in sight. The ocean appears magnificently 
grand, and resembles a gigantic circular platform, considera- 
bly elevated, of which our ship forms the centre. The breeze 
having freshened, has caused the temperature to fall so low 
as to render a little fire agreeable, and the ship being under 
full canvass, makes her bound beautifully from billow to bil- 
low. As the Capt. was indisposed, and required some med- 
icine, I was obliged to open the medicine-chest, the smell of 
which, with the motion of the vessel, caused some sea-sick- 
ness, the first I have experienced. 

3d. — The weather has continued very rough all night and 
all day, which has caused nearly all on board to be sea-sick 
— myself among the rest ; but I suffered less than I anticipa- 
ted, and have not yet been willing to be thrown over-board, 
as is said to be so ardently requested by some on a first voy- 
age. Toward evening we had an almost dead calm ; the sea 
being excessively rough, caused the ship to roll most dis- 
tressingly.^ I am persuaded that no one can adequately im- 
agine the heart-sickening eff"ect of the lazy, monotonous flap- 
ping of empty sails against the masts, who has not experi- 
enced it. It seems like the enervating Sirocco of the desert, 
that strikes every animated being with the most profound 
lethargy. The officers pace the deck with a slow and inde- 
cisive air, with an occasional suppressed whistle to raise the 
wind ; the sailors lie stretched upon the forecastle, or hang 
listlessly on the bulwarks, gazing vacantly upon the ocean ; 
the passengers turn into their berths, and try to seek refuge 
in sleep, or stow themselves away in some retired nook, with 
a book in hand, which is soon seen to drop upon their laps, 
and their eyes close in a kind of dreamy slumber. The very 
cow seems to chew her cud with more thoughtfulness, and 
the fowls stand upon one leg, with their heads buried under 
their Avings, almost heedless of the usually welcome c)iuck 
of " Billy Ducks.'' 



^ NOTES Oy TRAVEL. 

4th. — O^ Nova Scotia — weather clear, and colder than it 
has been ; captain anticipates ice-bergs; progress slow ; 630 
miles out from New York, at noon. 

5th. — To-day we have had calms, alternating with head- 
winds and rain. Capt. able to be out to-day. Put ship 
about, and stee|*ed to the South, to avoid the ice. 

6th. — Passed a large ship within six miles, standing West- 
ward. Beguiled by the clear atmosphere, although there 
was a heavy sea, the passengers were induced to open the 
wmdows of their state rooms to admit fresh air, when a tre- 
mendous sea struck the leeward side of the ship, with a fear- 
ful crash, and buried even the high quarterdeck to the depth 
of many feet. The stove was overturned and the lire scattered 
over the cabin floor ; trunks and boxes were torn loose and 
tumbled in all directions; the pantiy door was burst open 
Avith a deafening sound, of breaking crockery, quantities of 
Avhich flew even to the opposite side of the vessel ; all per- 
sons on their feet were prostrated, and torrents of water gush- 
ed through the sky-lights and deluged the cabin and state- 
rooms to leeward to the depth of several feet, wetting all the 
berths, and floating the trunks of the passengers. One of 
the ladies in the cabin, seated directly under the sky-light, 
held an infant in her lap who was just in the act of receiving 
a spoonful of food — his mouth wide open as the spoon was 
approaching him, when suddenly he received an enormous 
gulph of brine, that came near strangling the little fellow. 
Nothing more than the inconvenience of drenched beds and 
baggage, and some little fright to the ladies, was the result of 
this accident, except the loss of a large quantity of our 
crockery, and one of our boats, which was torn from its place 
with great violence, and broken into atoms. We to the 
windward, fortunately escaped the greater part of the incon- 
venience to which our neighbors opposite were subjected, as 
the ship continued to lie on her side. 

7th. — Although the weather continues excessively rough, 
the wind is fair and is bearing us on speedily to our place of 
destination. To-day we have accomplished one third of our 
way. 

StU & 9th. — The Avhid has bct'ii fitful and capricious for 



XOTEi< OF TRAVEL. 9 

these two days, with high and irregular seas, which has tend- 
ed to render our condition very irksome. 

10th. — Blew a strong gale all last night and this morning, 
the waves running nearly as high as our mast-heads! I find 
it utterly impossible to stand or walk without holding on. 
The mighty deep lashed into a such a tumult Snd commotion 
by a storm, forms a scene of magnificence and grandeur, 
Avhich I could never have imagined, and which I am entirely 
incapable of describing! 

11th. — The storm continued to increase last night, until it 
almost blew a hurricane. I found it necessary to pack my- 
self tightly in my berth, by means of carpet bags and over- 
clothing, to avoid being tossed from side to side, or even 
thrown upon the floor. Indeed, so violent and fatiguing has 
been the motion for the last several days, that, in order to 
procure a little rest, I was often obhged to retire to my room 
and take a sitting position on the floor, between the berth 
and my trunl^, which Vv^as so arranged as barely to admit my 
body. The concussion of the vessel against the waves last 
night was so tremendous that it caused the Avhole immense 
fabric to vibrate in every part as if struck by a thunder-bolt, and 
it was diflicult to realize that she v/as not striking something 
far more dense than mere water. On attempting to go on 
the main deck this morning, I found it impossible from the im- 
mense seas that were breaking over it at every moment and 
drenching it from end to end. I ultimately succeeded in 
gaining a position in a small passage between the outer and 
inner doors of the cabin, whence, by propping myself secure- 
ly with my feet and back and holding the outer door by a 
firm grasp so as to close it when the breakers dashed upon 
deck, I was enabled to enjoy from time to time a sight of the 
awful and sublime tumult without. The ship was running 
under a double reefed main-sail only, and was said to be 
making 12 or 14 miles per hour. She appeared as if cbawn 
by some immense engine hitched to her stern, and when, after 
pointing her jib-boom almost to the zenith, and gaining the 
top of one of the mountain waves, she would descend to the 
deep and vast abyss that yawned beneath, it seemed incredible 
that she should ever rise again ! The scene was magnificently 



10 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

grand and awfnlly sublime ! ! — Can any one point to a 
more obvious exliibition of the power of Him who stilled 
the raging of the tumultous waves by his simple mandate ! 

Nothing can exceed the embarrassment of taking a meal 
during very rough weather at sea ; and with us this difficul- 
ty was very much increased, by our having forgotten the 
wooden frames usually fitted to tables on ship board, to pre- 
vent the dishes and plates from slipping off. It was a com- 
mon remark that the ship always became more uneasy 
just as we were about to sit down to dinner ; no doubt be- 
cause then we remarked it more. Many were the laughable 
and indescribable scenes we had on those occasions. Our 
chief steward was a remarkably decent and sedate elderly 
colored man, who prided himself not a little on the neatness 
and taste with which he would arrange the dinner table. Of 
course when he suspected dilhculties, he would keep all the 
dishes snugly pinned down in the pantry, until all was got in 
readiness, when he Avould watch a favorable opportunity for 
slipping them hastily on the table, employing all his forces, 
and would ring the bell at the same time with great violence, 
in order to get the passengers seated as quickly as possible, 
and thus shift the responsibility of mishaps from himself. 
This plan would often prove successful, and perhaps before 
the passengers were all seated, all hands would be obliged to 
hold on, with their hands, arms and breasts, to every thing 
moveable, to prevent them from being dashed on the floor. 
This odd scene might recur some five or six times durhig a 
repast. But at other times, less fortunate in his anticipations, 
some tremendous lurch of the vessel would occur, before the 
passengers had time to arrive at the table, and all his neatly 
skewered fowls, plumply stuffed turkeys, and pigs, trimmed 
with tufts of parsley in their mouths, Avould make a sudden 
and simultaneous movement, dishes and all, first to the 
benches or settees, where they would be broken into atoms, 
and then to the floor ; and if the state-room doors happened 
to be open, pell-mell even under the berths. The odd coun- 
tenance of the old steward, between an expression of merri- 
ment and chagrin, groping about with a large silver fork in 
one hand, and a cane or brush-handle in (ho other, to stir 



XOTES OF TRAVEL. 11 

them from under the beds, gathering up his runaway di>ck.s^ 
turkeys and pigs, formed a scene of the most indescribably 
kidicrous character. 

12th. — The storm has abated, and the sea is more cahn ; 
which is a great rehef after the fatigue we have experienced 
for several days. Passed a large English ship to-day, stand- 
ing Westward. 

13th & 14th. — Although the weather is cloudy, the wind 
is fair, and we are progressing steadily but slowly. Our 
young gentlemen have resorted to pitching pennies, for exer- 
cise and amusement. It is curious to observe, how much the 
human mind as well as the body, is influenced by circum- 
stances ; and how readily both accommodate themselves to 
their existing condition. The most trivial and childish amuse- 
ments will be entered into at sea, with an ardor and interest 
that those of a much higher character are incapable of ex- 
citing on land. 

I5th. — The weather continues calm, and the breezes light ; 
we are making but four or five knots ; but to compensate, we 
can pass nearly all our time on deck. Saw a small sail 
ahead this morning, which we soon passed; and another in 
the evening, standing Westward. A shoal of porpoises, the 
first we have seen, crossed our track to-day. 

16th — This is Sunday, and the most lovely and delighful 
morning I have seen at sea ; as calm, serene and inviting as 
the doctrines of that book which has taught. us to observe 
this blessed day ! What a contrast between this day and that 
of the 11th. It is almost impossible to conceive that a scene 
so calm, so quiet, so heavenly, could assume all the boister- 
ous, wild and fearful fury that it does when the mighty 
hurricane expends its power upon the waves ! That heart 
must be devoid of feeling indeed, that does not rise in pro- 
found and grateful adoration, in scenes and under circumstan- 
ces such as these. Here are not needed the silvery notes 
and long loud tones of the harmonious organ, to incite to 
worship ; the magnificently grand, yet serene and beautiful 
display of omnipotent power on the desert of the deep, is 
quite sufficient to elevate the soul to God. 

17th. — Weather raw and unpleasant; wind contrary, but 



12 XOTES OF TRAVEL. 

WO aro enabled to keep onr course pretty well ; motion con- 
sideral)le, in consequence of our being obliged to keep so^ 
close to the wind. Observed a small sail far ahead, which 
we approached in the after part of the day, and ascertained 
it to be what the Capt. called- a "chasse maree," a small 
French coaster, with red bark-tanned sails, which was the 
first object that indicated our approach to a foreign land. 

ISth. — All in high spirits as the wind is fair, and we are 
making fine head-way. The ocean has a peculiarly beauti- 
ful appearance to-day. The Avaves rise to about the height 
of our quarterdeck, presenting the base black, the body olive- 
colored, and the top of a beautiful emerald green, with the 
apex curling gracefully into a splendid white. This appear- 
ance is what sailors call white-caps. 

19th, 20th & 21sT. — We have had three more days of 
unpleasant suffering, from excessively stormy weather and a 
rough sea. Life on ship-board in bad weather is extremely 
tedious and wearisome, when one can neither converse, read 
nor'exercise with any degree of pleasure. As to mental ex- 
ertion, I found it exceedingly difficult during the whole voy- 
age, and often impossible. This I had often heard and read 
of, but presuming it to be imaginary, I supplied myself with 
a number of books, of which, however, I made but little use. 
The motion of the vessel, with the small amount of exercise 
that can be taken within the narrow precincts of such a 
floating prison, cause a fullness of the system, and a deter- 
itiination of blood to the brain, that produces a degree of 
lethargy and inaction, which is impossible to overcome. I 
am sure no one can fully appreciate this almost paralyzing 
influence on the mental energies, who has not experienced it. 
Saw three or four sail passing in various directions, but none 
near enough to distinguish their names. The Captain order- 
ed some of his preserved provisions to be served up; not out 
df necessity, for we still have plenty of live stock and ice in 
<5tir ice-house, but merely to ascertain its quality. We have 
had soup, beans, peas, asparagus, mutton, beef and fowls, 
preserved for at least five years, and stowed away on board 
to be resorted to incase of emergency. So perfectly was the 
whole flavor of these articles retained, that the greatest 



NOTES or TRAVEL. 13 

epicure would be luiable to distinguisli them from those re- 
cently prepared. I was mformed that their preparation forms 
an extensive branch of business. The meats are roasted, 
and the vegetables are preserved as for serving up, and 
placed, whilst quite hot, in tin canisters of convenient size, 
with their juices and gravy poured over them ; and when 
the atmospheric air is entirely expelled, the lids are carefully 
soldered on, and their preservation will be found complete at 
the expiration of eight or ten years. I have even seen milk 
preserved perfectly fresh for a year by a similar process. I 
also saw another preparation designed to add to the comforts 
of persons on a long voyage. It precisely resembled a stick 
of cream candy, in which were combined the essence of tea 
or coffee, with cream and sugar, so that it only required a 
piece to be put into a cup, and some boiling water to be 
poured upon it, to make a tolerable cup of coffee or tea in a 
few minutes. 

22d.— Gloomy day ; wind N. E. and stormy, with a rough 
sea, and making but little head-way ; out three weeks to-day, 
at 12§ P. M. Saw several sail to-day, but no signs of land; 
•the passengers are beginning to manifest some impatience, 
and to lose a little of their amiability ; we almost Avish we 
had some steam, if it could be had at least, without the 
fire. — There is nothing I dread half so much at sea as 
fire. Decidedly the most awful catastrophe to which hu- 
man beings can be subjected on ship-board, is conflagra- 
tion, where even that dernier support under almost any 
other circumstances, hope, is utterly cut off. Notwithstan- 
ding the eminent and almost unexpected success of the 
grand experiment of atlantic steam-navigation, I am una- 
ble to divest myself of a deep sense of its great danger. 
An exposure to the risk of two violent and uncontrollable 
elements, wind and water, is sufficient without the addition 
of that greater one of fire.^ Then, too, if a landsman may 
venture to hazard an opinion, I do not believe that the 
construction of the steamers, with their immensely ponder- 
ous engines, is nearly so well calculated to weather a heavy 
gale. There are other objections of minor import, that 
may be urged against their comfort : — such as the smell 



14 ?fOTES OF TRAVEL. 

of the smoke and oil, tlie nerer ceasing noise and jar of the 
engine, kc. 

23d. — As I came on deck this morning at an early hour, 
which is my usual custom, I observed the cow thrusting her 
head out of her stall, raising her nose, snuffing up the air 
with apparent delight, and emitting an occasional low of sat- 
isfaction. When the Capt. came up I asked an explanation 
of this strange conduct of the animal. He at once recogni- 
zed in this, a familiar and often observed instinct ; for the 
cow was an old voyager, having crossed the Atlantic some 
five or six times ; and he unhesitatingly predicted the near 
approach to land. Leaning over the bulwarks to windward, 
and deeply inhaling the air, he turned about, saying " it is 
even so, I smell the land." I tried repeatedly and perse ver- 
ingly once more to catch a single faint smell of the earth, 
after having been deprived of that pleasure for so long a time, 
but in vain ; and it Avas not until after the expiration of sev- 
eral houTS that I became sensible of the delightful balmy 
odour of blossoms, among whi^h I fancied I could distin- 
guish the peach particularly. My facetious young friend, 
Mr. C. whc^ had so long and ardently desired, during our 
passage to enjoy the smell of land, "if it were even but a 
bit of miid,^' seemed to enjoy it more highly than any of us. 
The ocean began ta assume that light green appearance al- 
ways observed when there is less depth, o-wing perhaps to a 
gi'eater abundance of organized matter, and we were visited 
by a number of swallows that perched in our rigging, nearly 
exhausted by their long flight. Four or five sail were in sight 
to-day. 

24th. — This is a delightful day, but the wind is contrary, 
which has caused a considerable check to the high spirits felt 
by all yesterday. There have been from four to ten vessels 
in sight all day, a small compensation for the disagreeable 
conviction that we are progressing very slowly. Had we 
been making good headway, we should have enjoyed this 
animated scene with great zest. At 3 P. M. we were board- 
ed by an English Pilot from the Scilly Isles*, around whom all 
on board croAvded with as much eagerness as if he had been 
some nondescript animal dropt from the clouds. The poor 



fs'OTES OF TRAVEL. I5f 

fellow, naturally somewhat slow in his answers, was assailed 
with such vollies of questions from all sides, that he was kept 
veering and turning from side to side, until he seemed totally 
confounded, and tliought of the lucky stratagem of pulling 
an old London paper from his pocket, which in a moment 
debarrassed him of at least one half of his inquisitive inter- 
rogators. This was the first person we had conversed with,^ 
except our ship's-crew, for nearly a month, and no one can 
imagine, unimportant as it appears, the lively interest created 
by such an occurrence. The Capt. purchased from him some 
cabbages, onions and potatoes, made him a present of some 
salt beef, and oifered him several bottles of rum, which he 
refused, saying his boat was a temperance boat ; for this we 
gave him three hearty cheers as he descended over the side 
of the vessel. No tidings of the unfortunate President; 
which almost confirms our worst fears that she has gone to 
the bottom, without leaving a trace behind her. This is pe- 
culiarly distressing to Capt, and Mrs. P. who were intimate- 
ly acquainted with a newly married couple from New York, 
who had embarked on her to make a wedding trip to Eng- 
land. At about 9 o'clock this evening, we observed the light 
from the Lizard Point light-house, dimly glimmering at a 
great distance to the North-East. 

25th. — Morning clear, but almost calm, — from 10 to 15 
sail in view. About 3 P. M. we observed the first land, 
which is the English coast stretching like a long black cloud 
along the distant horizon. 5 P. M. the beautiful green hills 
of old England in full view. We can distinguish houses and 
trees even, Avith the naked eye. How refreshing it is once 
more to see land ; and this the land of all others most inter- ^ 
esting to an American, as intimately associated with our ear- W 
liest impressions, and most reflected upon in our maturer 
years. This is the outlet to the greatest thoroughfare for the 
shipping, destined to all countries on the face of the globe ; 
and consequently thfere have ^been all the afternoon from 25 to 
30 vessels of all sorts, shapes and sizes in sight, all under full 
canvass, moving in all possible directions. At 6 P. M. we 
were boarded by a Pilot from Cowes, whose services we could 
not engage, as we were bound to a French port ; and after 



#1€ , KOTES OF TIIAVEL. 



\ 



receiving his customary present of salt beef, Avhich was grate- 
fully accepted, he left us. At about 8 P. M. the sun sunk 
with unusual splendour in a cloudless sky, behind the beauti- 
fully sloping hills and bright lawns of England, studded in 
all directions with white villas and neat cottages. These, 
with the countless white sails, moving in all directions in the 
soft evening breeze, batlfld in a rich flood of golden and pur- 
ple light, formed a scene of unrivalled beauty. Late in the 
evening, we remarked a small black cloud skirting the South- 
ern horizon, which emitted an occasional flash of lightning, 
such as we often see in our latitudes on a hot summer's eve- 
ning. The air was delightfully bland and balmy, and the 
smooth surface of the sea was scarcely rippled save by the 
occasional sluggish rise and fall of our lazy ship, which caus- 
ed a long but gentle wave, that looked like liquid fire, from 
the coruscating phosphorescence. The scene was one of those 
that inspires that soft, that subdued delight, better felt than 
described, which invites to silence and meditation — one of 
those that inspires feelings conjured up by reflections on the 
past, that are delightfully alleviated by the silent dropping 
of a tear. But there was something portentous in this very 
hush of nature. The cloud Ave had observed increased in 
size ; the flashes of lightning became more frequent and viv- 
id; the occasional low growl of the distant thunder grew 
more distinct ; a fitful gust of wind would from time to time 
distend our flapping sails, and communicate a peculiar trem- 
Gur to the ship. The Capt. paced the quarter deck in silence, 
casting a suspicious look alternately at his noble ship and at 
the approaching storm. The lightning became more frequent 
and lurid, the intervals more intensely dark, when the deci- 
ded and rather hurried command of the Capt. suddenly sent 
every man on board into the rigging. Almost at the same 
moment, several successive shrill sharp explosions of thunder 
announced that the hurricane was upon us ! A sudden tre- 
mendous blast of wind broke upon our fioble ship, that made 
her reel and toss like a toy ; every seam appeared disjointed 
and every timber creaked with the violence of the gale. One 
burst of thunder followed another in quick succession, the 
whole firmament and the wide expanse of waters were one 



NOTES OP TRAVEL. 17 

glow of vivid fire ; the half furled sails were carried far 
above the yards, with a fearful crash ; the officers were obli- 
ged to resort to their speaking trumpets, for the unaided voice 
could not be heard across our decks ; so loud and boisterous 
were the noise and tumult on our ship, and so deafening the 
fearful rushing of the swollen and angry waves, that even, 
the mighty voice of the thunder was for a while unheard ! 
This magnificently grand and awfully sublime turmoil of the 
elements, formed a scene so entirely unique, so utterly differ- 
ent from any thing that I had ever experienced, that I find it 
totally impossible to give an account of the impressions it 
produced. With the greatest exertions the men succeeded in 
saving all the sails, and in furling them, which at once great- 
ly calmed the violent agitation of the ship, and in a few hours 
the Storm had passed off, and left nothing but the unpleasant 
rolling of the vessel which always accompanies a calm after 
the sea has been strongly agitated by a storm. 

26th. — Weather hazy, and the wind right in our teeth, 
with a rough sea ; exactly the combination of circumstances, 
particularly Avhen wifhin a short distance of your destined 
port, to render persons most unamiable. The haze cleared 
away in the afternoon, and we had several opportunities of 
viewing the land on the English side, without adding greatly 
to our pleasure, as we were not near enough to distinguish 
objects. We experienced another heavy thunder storm in 
the night, that caused us to lose the little we had gained 
through the day. 

27th. — This was a delightfully mild and sunny day, but 
the wind, what little there was, was contrary. At 2 P. M. 
spoke the ship Murphy, from Bremen, bound to Baltimore, 
the first vessel we approached within speaking distance. Our 
friend Mr. C. proposed to them to swap ivincl, which of coiuse 
had they been able they would have declined, for disinteres- 
ted as seamen generally are, in matter of weather they are 
supremely selfish. At 5 P. M. we observed a small boat ap- 
proaching us, and in the course of half an hour the Capt. 
ascertained it to be a pilot-boat, precisely what we desired, 
for we had experienced several very tempestuous nights, and 
were now in the narrow part of the channel. In another 



18 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

half hour, the pilot came on board. He again like the oth» 
ers, excited our .curiosity, but escaped the innumerable inter- 
rogatories, from the dilRculty of putting them in a foreign 
language. We enjoyed another splendid sunset, but heard 
again the roll of distant thunder, as the evening advanced. 
The storm, howeirer, passed us, and we had a serene night. 

26th.— Wind more favourable, weather delightful, and the 
coast of " la belle France'^ in full sight. All in the best spir- 
its, with the prospect of a speedy ^.rrival. We enjoyed to- 
day, a delightful view of the highland of Cape de la Hogue, 
luid of the towns of Cherbourg and St. Pierre. We discov- 
<ered a small boat afloat ahead of us this afternoon, and by 
the earnest solicitations of the Captain's little son, he pre- 
vailed upon his father to permit the ship to run a little out of 
her course, in order to come alongside. The men were pre- 
pared with a harpoon, and. as we approached the boat near 
enough it was struck in the bottom, and as it was thus held, 
a man descended with a rope around his waist, and succeed- 
ed, in securing it. It was a small ferry-boat of no great val- 
ue, and the Capt. induced his son to consent to make it a 
present to some poor waterman at Havre. 

29th. — Another lovely morning. We now began to dis- 
cern the high point of land at the bottom of which Havre is 
situated. We approached the shore slowly, and. after being 
near enough to see part of the city, and. even the motion of 
the telegraph on the high promontory before us, Ave lay to, 
to \yait for a tow-boat and the rise of the tide. The land 
facing the channel is high, and almost perpendicular, and 
devoid of all vegetation; appearing like washed ground of a 
reddish colour; but the left bank of the Seine, in the direc- 
tion of Honfleur, recedes in beautiful hills, clothed in rich 
verdure to the water's edge. When the tide rose, we were 
taken in tow by a steamer, and carried partly into the mouth 
of the Seine, and thence by a wide canal into one of the im- 
mense docks of the ancient .and commercial city of Havre. 
The vessel was at once taken in charge by the police-officers 
in uniform, who demanded our passports, and ordered all our 
baggage to be carried to the custom-house ; wlien we were 
once more permitted to set our feet on terra firma.<XYnX walk 



NOTES or TRAVEL. 



f^ 



the best way we could. But we found this ahuost as difficult 
and awkward as it Was to learn to walk on the deck 6f the 
ship ; and we caught ourselves at every moment bracing our' 
mitscles to anticipate a It^'ch, and to prevent a fall, which 
made us present a Ibost ludicrous appearance. Nor did I get 
rid of this sensation of the motion of the vessel for ten days 
or two weeks, particularly on entering a small room Af hich 
resembled tlie (5abin, or when in bed. In the lattet sitttation, 
however, it Avas by no means disagreeable to me, fo!^ so ac- 
customed had I become to being rocked to sleep, that its' 
absence was quite an inconvenience. We proceeded to the 
Hotel de PEl,urope, a large and well kept house, and, after 
having made choice ^of rooms, we sauntered out at random' 
to view the city. The total novelty of every object we look-' 
ed upon, reminded us clearly of oiir arrival in a foreign landy 
where even the face of nature wears a different aspect. It 
is scarcely possible to realize the greatness of the c'ont]*iast 
between a continental city and one of our own ; and ibis is 
perhaps most striking in the numerous uniforms that arrest 
the attention, particularly of an American, at every step, and 
the unaccustomed sounds of a foreign language falling upon 
the ear. Any part of the earth's surface, not totally a desert 
would have been hailed with joy after a residence of four 
weeks on the great deep, where nothing greeted the eye but 
sky and waves ; but this was Europe, this was France, beau- 
tiful sunny France, the subject of the dreams of my child- 
hood, and of the agreeable reflections of riper yeai^s, associa- 
ted with all that is polite and polished in society, simple and 
unaffected in life, and eminently beautiful in natiu'e. It seems 
like the reverie of a vivid dream. Every object, even the 
most trivial, attracted our attention, and we went dodging 
about the streets like a company of Nez-perces or Black-feet, 
just from the Rocky Mountains, with no doubt, a great deal 
less address in concealing our curiosity. Happy for us that 
the natives are accustomed to see daily such exhibitions as 
these in the newly arrived, or we certainly should have been 
surrounded by a mob eager to see " les sauvages.^^ I could 
frequently not help thinking that it was French politeness 
alone that protected us from such a scrutiny, but as it was, 



20 irOTES OF TRAVEL. 

we passed along by only hearing the simple observation of 
" volla ties etragers.^^ The city of Havre contains 30,000 
inhabitants, is a bastling, active and commercial place, and 
although not very prepossessing in its appearance, contains 
several beautiful squares and some fine l^jiildings. Its situa- 
tion on the right bank of the Seine is generally low, but rises 
to a considerable elevation towards the north in the direction 
of the faubourg of Ingonville, where are soma b(!autiful man- 
sions and gardens on terraces commanding a delightful view 
of the city, the harbour and the sea, to a great distance. It 
was founded in 1526 by Francois I, and very much improv- 
ed by Louis XVI, after plans furnished by the famous M. 
Lamande. Its being the sea-port of Paris, renders it a place 
of great importance as a commercial mart. The annual ar- 
rivals at Havre are estimated at from four to five thousand 
sail ; and besides twelve splendid packet-ships running regu- 
larly to New York, there are a number destined to New 
Orleans, Rio-Janeiro, Havana, &c. Steamers also run regular- 
ly between this port and London, Southampton, Lisbon, Bor- 
deaux, Amsterdam, Rotterdam, Hamburg and Paris. The 
streets of Havre are narrow, but well paved, and the houses 
high, built of stone and covered with tiles. Some of the 
buildings are faced with slate, and make a very pretty ap- 
pearance. The city is defended by high walls and a ditch. 
The docks are magnificent specimens of hydraulic archi- 
tecture. 

30th. — This is Sunday ; but how unlike the quiet, sedate 
observance of this day at home ! All the shops are open, 
and the ordinary occupations of life are continued as on any 
other day of the week. As we were not permitted to carry 
any thing with us from the ship, not even a change of cloth- 
ing, we were obliged to go to the custom-house, and have 
our trunks passed. The examination was very superficial, 
and performed with a delicacy that surprised me, after all 
that I had heard of foreign " douanes.^^ The main object of 
search seemed to be tobacco, on which the duty is exorbitant. 
I had several pounds of caveridish, on which I was obliged 
to pay more than the article cost me at home. After making 
my toilet, I went to the .seaman's chapel, and heard an 



NOTES 6-p TRAVEti 21 

excellent sermon delivered by Mr. Sortell. The congrega- 
tion, independently of the seamen, was large and respecta* 
ble. There are two Churches at Havre, the principal one of 
which is called Notre-Bame ; its construction Was commen- 
ced in the 16th century, biit it possesses nothing of peculiar 
interest, apart from its antiquity* Bathing appears to be a 
common practice among the French, and delightful hot and 
cold baths can be had at a cheap rate. It is customary to 
cover the interior of the bath-tub with a linen cloth made to 
fit it, and this is renewed for every bather ; a practice well 
worthy of being imitated, on account of its cleanliness. 
When you are ready to get out of the bath, you ring a bell, 
and the servant brings a long flannel gown, well heated, to 
slip on, arid three or four hot napkins, for which he always 
expects two or three sous. I enjoyed the luxury of one of 
these baths this evening, at the moderate sum of li francs. 

3 1st. — Accepted the kind invitation of Capt. P., to accom- 
pany him and his family to Harfleur, a beautiful village about 
li leagues from the city. After leaving the gate, we passed 
along the single street of the faubourg called Ingonville, lying 
at the foot of a considerable eminence, studded with beauti* 
ful villas. The road is delightful, as even as a floor ; and the 
soil, although not naturally rich, is highly cultivated, and laid 
out in pretty gardens. Many of these gardens in the imme- 
diate vicinity of the city, I was told, are hired by tradesmen 
and others, and cultivated as much as a source of amuse- 
ment as profit. It is here they resort on Sundays with their 
families, and taking their food with them, spend the whole 
day in these retreats. Most of the country houses are thatched ; 
and the total absence of fences or enclosures of any kind, ex- 
cept a few hedges, and some stone walls immediately around 
the dwellings, gives the landscape a curious aspect to an 
American, accustomed to see our long lines of fences. We 
met many mules and jack-asses caii||ring burdens of various 
kinds to and from the city, generally in panniers slung on 
each side of the animals, and most commonly conducted by 
females, frequently either spinning or knitting, and walking 
along side, or mounted between the baskets. The odd ap- 
pearance of the heavy carts and waggons, loaded to an 

3 



22 NOTES or TRAVEL. 

immense height witli goods, packed in straw and retained by 
ropes, is very striking. They do not seem to know the use 
of Avaggon-beds and eovei-s, and I have no doubt a Conesto-- 
ga waggon would be deemed a great curiosity. The people 
are comfortably clad, and look cheerful and contented. The 
men generally wear blue blouses, reaching half way to the 
knee, and the women petticoats and aprons, with white bodi- 
ces, and the immense Norman caps, extending fifteen or 
eighteen inches beyond the crown of the head, also white. 

The most striking object in the beautiful town of Harfleur, 
is an elegant Gothic steeple of whitish freestone, surmounting 
a chu?ch of large dimensions, built by the English in 12S5, 
while they had possession of this place. It is said that form- 
erly one hundred and four strokes of the bell proceeded from 
this steeple every morning, in commemoration of a like num- 
ber of citizens who had the fearless daring to cast off the 
odious yoke of the English. Harfleur was formerly one of 
the principal ports of Normandy^ and in the XVth century 
sustained several battles against the English. It contains, at 
present, several manufactories of importance. 

From Harfleur we visited the delightful hamlet of Orcher, 
quietly embosomed in a beautiful thicket of elms, distant 
about two miles from the former place. Here we saw a great 
number of persons keeping fete-day, of which dancing of 
course formed a principal part. Their amusements seemed 
to be conducted with great propriety, and their refreshments 
consisted of cakes, wine and beer. We had the curiosity to 
taste some of the latter, but I did not consider it very palata- 
ble. It was a kind of strong-beer, but weaker than that we 
find at home. On an elevated terrace close by Orcher, are 
the old chateau and delightful grounds of Mad. de Mortemart,. 
who generously directs her porter to admit all visitors to those 
beautiful promenades. The grounds are very extensive, and 
are laid out in lawns, wsi^s and groves, in excellent taste. 
The part near the chateau reminded me strongly of Mount 
Vernon. From the height overhanging the Seine, and which 
is plentifully furnished with seats, we enjoyed a most splen- 
did view of Havre, the town of Harfleur, and the picturesque 
banks of the river opposite to us. Here we saw a shepherd 



NOTES OF TRAVEL. 23 

tending a beautiful flock of sheep, aceompaiiied by his dog, 
and having his crook and scrip ; objects I had so often heard 
sung by poets, but which I now for the first time reahzed. 
The picture is certainly a very pretty one, nor am I surprised 
that it has been the favourite theme of all poets, from the 
-earliest times. These charming spots are the habitual ren- 
dezvous of the citizens of Havre, during the fine season. 
We returned at an early hour, highly gratified with our vis- 
it, and in the evening called on the Rev. Mr. Sortell, whose 
residence is delightfully situated, so as to command a view 
of the whole city and harbour. To-morrow I set out for 
Paris. 



JUNE— 1841. 
isT. — Left Havre at 5^ A. M. in company with Messrs. S. 
and De B. on board of the steam-boat Seine, bound to Rouen. 
This is a charming morning, and our little company is in the 
highest spirits, as we could not fail to be, on a voyage so ex- 
citingly interesting as that up the beautiful Seine. Our high- 
ly esteemed and excellent friend, Capt. P. came down to the 
boat to see us off. Our vessel is a beautiful long black craft, 
of a very pretty finish, supplied with an elegant English low- 
pressure engine, English firemen and steersman, and a French 
captain. The French mode of living is carried out even on 
their boats ; for we have a restaurant on board, at which ev- 
ery one may order what he pleases, and pays immediately 
for what he gets. I think this plan is far preferable to our 
own, both as it is more equitable, and as the unpleasant crowd 
of an ordinary is avoided. The Seine has a very considera- 
ble width at its mouth, but continues to grow narrower as 
you proceed, until you arrive at Quilleboeuf, 12 leagues, 
where the banks approach each other very closely. The 
country on both sides of the river in this part of it, rises in 
bold hills, and sometimes even in elevated peaks, particular- 
ly the Point de la Roque, on which are the ruins of an an- 
cient hermitage, rich in legendary tales. There are a great 
number of towns and villages scattered along the banks on 
both sides. Honfleur, nearly opposite to Havre, is a walled 
town containing at present 8,000 inhabitants. It was formerly 



■24 KOTES OP TRAVEL. 

a port of considerable note, and its population at one time 
exceeded 17,000. Its site is chamiing. At the distance of 
S leagues we passed the two castles of Tancarville, the old- 
est of which dates from the Xllth century, delightfully situa-= 
ted on a beautiful platform at the bottom of a small bay. 
We now approached the town of Quilleboeuf, between ^Yhich 
and Vieux Port, a distance of 2i or 3 leagues, the navigation 
of the Seine is very dangerous ; owing to the numerous sand- 
banks, which shift their position from hour to hour. Our 
Captain here took a pilot on board, of which 110 reside at 
Quilleboeuf, and find employment in navigating boats through 
this dangerous channel. Nearly opposite this town is Lille- 
bonne, the Julibona of the Romans, where numerous antiqui- 
ties are still discovered. It is in this part of the river that 
is observed that curious phenomenon called La Barree, 
which is so much dreaded by, and has proved so disastrous 
to the navigators of the Seine. It takes place at the time of 
the equinox at full and new-moon, and is thus described by 
an eye-witness : — " Already was the constellation of the Bear 
in the middle of its course, when we heard at a distance a 
dull noise, a roaring like that of a cataract ; I imprudently 
got up to see what it was : I perceived by the white foam, a 
mountain of water approaching us from the direction of the 
sea, rolling upon itself ; it occupied the whole width of the 
river, and, suraiounting the banks to the right and left, it 
broke with a horrible noise, upon the trunks of the forest 
trees. In an instant it was upon our vessel, which it struck 
crosswise and laid it on its side ; the movement threw me 
overboard." It was in one of these violent commotions of 
the waters that St. Piere, the author of the Studies of Nature, 
perished. This phenomenon must be owing to the high tide 
meeting with the rapid current in the river. Its violence is 
said to have much abated within the last ten or twelve years. 
Between Quilleboeuf and Candebec, the next considerable 
town, we passed many romantic villages, buried in delightful 
groves, generally with thatched roofs ; and in one, Aiziers, 
the Church even was thatched. Candebec, on the right bank 
of the river, contains 3,000 inhabitants, and is one of the 
most charming spots I ever saw. Joseph Vernet, it is said. 



NOTES OF TRAVEL. 25 

considered the view taken from the quai of this place the 
finest in all France. Here the Seine becomes extremely tor- 
tuous. The only large towns between Candebec and Rouen 
are La Mailleraie and Duclair — -the latter a most curious and 
interesting place, in which a number of dwellings are scooped 
out of the solid rock ranged along the river side. The banks 
the whole distance to the ancient Norman capital, are ex- 
tremely varied and picturesque. The hill-tops are frequentty 
surmounted by the dilapidated turrets of ancient castles, or 
the tottering walls of ruined monasteries and churches, which 
lend to the prospect a peculiar interest, particularly to those 
unaccustomed, like myself, to see such objects. I was much 
surprised to see the great extent of forests still remaining in 
this part of so old a country as France. The approach to 
Rouen is truly m.agnificent : and here we arrived at 12 M. a 
distance of 106 miles from Havre, after one of the most inter- 
esting and exciting trips I ever made. We were immediately 
beset, as we were on our arrival at Havre, by a host of serv- 
ants from the different hotels, presenting us with their cards, 
and recommending their several establishments. But as we 
were recommended from Havre to the Grand Hotel de Rouen, 
we firmly resisted all other invitations. It must be acknowl- 
edged, however, and noted as a mark of the politeness of the 
French, that the importunities of these agents were easily got 
rid of, when we manifested some decision in the matter. We 
.could not help contrasting them with yankees, under similar 
circumstances. 

Rouen, the ancient capital of Normandy, contains 100,000 
inhabitants, and is situated on a beautiful slope called Mont 
aux Malade^, on the right bank of the Seine. Most of the 
streets are tortuoL^LS and narrow, and many of the houses with 
their upper stories jutting over the basement, bear the marks 
of great age. The quai is wide, clean, and flanked by a long 
row of beautiful tall buildings, most of which are occupied as 
store-houses and shops. The more densely built part of the 
city is surrounded by a well-paved wide street, having foot- 
walks, and is planted with a double row of stately trees which 
extends about- 3 miles, called the Boulevards, and forms a 
delicious drive or walk in hot weather. This was the ancient 



26 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

fortification of the city, rendered useless by modern warfare. 
A communication is formed with the opposite side of the river, 
occupied by the faubourg St. Sever, by two magnificent 
bridges. The first is a wire suspension bridge, which forms 
a most imposing object as you ascend the Seine, and occupies 
the place of tlie ancient bridge of boats ; and the latter is of 
stone of beautiful construction, 800 feet in length, with its 
centre resting on the Island de la Croix, upon which is erected 
a colossal statue, in bron2:e, of Pierre Corneille, 12 feet high, 
supported on a pedestal of white Carrara marble. A mag- 
nificent walk, planted with four rows of stately elms, called 
the Coiirs de la Reinc, extends from the opposite end of this 
bridge to the distance of G74 fathoms, and is said to be one 
of the finest in the kingdom. The environs of the city arc 
delightful. But the principal attraction for strangers at Rouen 
are the splendid specimens of Gothic architecture of the middle 
ages, preserved in its numerous churches, and which are un- 
equalled by any in the world. 

After dinner we engaged a valet de placcj and set out to 
visit the architectural curiosities of this curious and intensely 
interesting old city. This was the first time I engaged a valet 
de place, or guide, and I fully determined never to engage 
another. Besides fleecing you of your money by acting in 
collusion with the cusiodes and gargons at the ditferent places 
of curiosity, they vex and harass you with all kinds of silly 
talk, and foolish tales that are insuflerably annoying. I need 
scarcely tell you that the far-famed cathedral, whose lofty 
towers and pyramid of cast iron, formed so prominent an ob- 
ject as we approached the city, was the first to attract our 
eager ciuriosity. This magnificent temple, in the purest Gothic 
style, rests on the foundations of a church which was from 
time to time rebuilt, consecrated by St. Mellon, who lived be- 
tween the years 260 and 311, having been one of the first 
Christian churches in the North. The immense structure as 
it now exists, was the work of several centuries, having been 
commenced under Jean Sans Terre, duke of Normandy and 
king of England in the Xlllth century, and finished in the 
XVIth. It is constructed of a grey stone, having a close grain. 
The fa^-adc is flanked by two beautiful towers in dilferent 



NOtES OF TRAVEL; ^7 

Styles of architecture, and of great elevation, designated by 
the names of Tour St. Romaine^ and Tour de Beurrc ; be- 
cause the latter was built by the alms of the faithful, whd, in 
consideration of this, obtained leave to eat butter during Lent; 
In the centre over the grand portal, rises the magnificent 
pyramid, constructed entirely of cast iron, wrought in the 
most beautiful and delicate open work, to replace the former 
one which was shattered by a stroke of lightning in 1822; 
This wonderful and splendid piece of art is not completed, 
although 13 stories are already raised. It will rise to the 
height of 436 feet, and will be only 13 feet lower than the 
highest pyramid of Egypt. It will consist of 2,540 pieces, 
and will not weigh less than 600,000 kilogrammes, or 1,200,000 
pounds. The length of the cathedral is 450 feet, and its en- 
tire breadth 97 feet. The nave is 84 feet high, resting on 
magnificent columns 7 feet 8 inches in diameter, over the ar- 
cades of which is a narrow gallery. In the centre is a lantern^ . 
at the height of 1 60 feet under the keystone, and it is support- 
ed by four large pillars, each being 38 feet in circumference,- 
composed of 31 columns elegantly grouped together. The 
edifice is lighted by 130 immense windows, magnificently 
stained, representing various scriptural subjects. The cathe- 
dral contains twenty-five chapels, most of them enriched with 
the most beautiful sculpture, and many rare and valuable 
paintings. It is the final resting place of many personages 
celebrated in history and in literature, and also encloses the 
heart of Richard Coeur-de-Lion, which was discovered in 
1838. 

We next visited the admirable churqh of St. Ouen, the rival 
of the cathedral. It Avas commenced in 1 302, and finished in 
the XVIth century. Its perfectly chaste and beautiful tower 
forms the most striking object on the exterior of the edifice. 
Its height is 100 feet above the roof of the church, and is sur- 
mounted by a crown, wrought in open work, of the most 
beautiful eifect. The whole height from the pavement is 244 
feet, and it is supported in the interior of the edifice, by four 
pillars formed of a group of 24 columns. The numerous and 
immense buttresses that support the church on the outside are 
very curious. But it is the interior of this magnificent 



2S NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

specimen of the pure Gothic architecture that excites the most 
profound astonishment and dehght. It is perfectly plain, and 
devoid of any ornament save what belongs to the inimitably 
beautiful style of architecture of the XIV and XVth centuries. 
Nothing more light, more chaste, or more airy can be imagin- 
ed, than the exquisitely finished and delicately formed columns 
that support the elevated ceiling of its nave ! I consider St. 
Ouen far superior in delicacy and beauty of style to the cathe- 
dral, and indeed cannot conceive of any thing to rival it. The 
length of this splendid church within the Walls is 450 feet, its 
whole breadth 78, and the height under the keystone is 100 
feet. It is lighted by one hundred and twenty-five windows, 
most beautifully painted, and disposed in three rows, exclu- 
sive of three rose windows of great size and magnificence of 
coloring. The largest one, over the grand portal, is perhaps 
the most splendid object of its kind in existence. No one can 
feonceive the superb magnificence and grandeur of the eftect,- 
when its area is lit up by the oblique rays of a clear sun ! I 
found it almost impossible to tear myself from the contempla- 
tion of this astonishing effort of the art of man ; and I lingered 
and gazed, and gazed and lingered, until my previously in- 
tensely excited feelings settled down into a dreamy kind of 
reverie of the most deep-felt pleasure I ever experienced ; and 
if there was anything to render my enjoyment imperfect and 
alloyed, it was the occasional feeling of regret that all those 
most dear to me could not be at my side, toi revel with me in 
this luxury of feeling ! Such an amazing display of genius 
elevates one's conception of the powers of the human intel- 
lect. In this church also, are the tombs of several persons 
famed in the history of this interesting country. 

We took occasion to visit to-day also, the small church of 
St. Patrice, at the most propitious hour for seeing to the best 
advantage the most magnificent specimens of painted glass 
how in existence — namely, in the evening, an hour or two 
before sunset. They are of the XVIth century, the most bril- 
liant period of this art. The soft floods of light thrown upon 
the curiously wrought interior of this old edifice, are enchant- 
ingly beautiful, as the oblique rays of a brilliant evening sun 
flow in magic streams through its immense and splendid 



JTOTEs OF Travel! 99 

windows. There are a number of other chnTches in this cu- 
rious old city, which out of Rouen, would be regarded with 
great interest, but being seen after the three splendid struc- 
tures just mentianed, make but a meagre appearance. 

The Palais de Justice, built by Louis XII in 1499, is one 
of the most richly adorned structtires in the city. It occupies 
one side of a square, and its fa9ade, 200 feet in length, is 
adorned with all tlie rich and beautiful decorations of which 
the Gothic style is capable ; and the elegant octangular turret 
in the centre is most imposing* One of the halls in this build- 
ing is considered the finest in France. It is called la grand 
chambre, and its ceiling, divided into sculptured compartments 
decorated with ^ilt and bronze ornaments, is of oak, to which 
time has given the appearance of ebony. This truly magnifi- 
cent apartment is occupied at present by the Court of Assizes, 
but was formerly the council chamber of the dukes of Nor- 
mandy. — Concluded to spend another day in this interesting 
old city. 

2d. — Took an omnibus and went to Bapaume, a manufac- 
turing village, about a league from' the city. The intervening 
country lying on the banks of th-e river, is very fine. We 
here visited a large calico printing establishment, that gives 
employment to 400 hands. Admission was freely granted, 
and we were most politely shown round, and even the details 
were explained by the superintendent. The general plan of 
the buildings is very tasty, being ranged around a large oval 
space, neatly laid out in walks, and planted with shrubs and 
flowers. There is a great deal of order and neatness in its 
internal disposition also. Seeing some beautifully laid out 
grounds on an elevated platform, raised above the Seine, at 
the distance of about half a mile from the village, we set out 
to visit them. We approached the porter's lodge, when we 
learned that this splendid estate belongs to Mr. Lafevre, a 
wealthy manufacturer, and were admitted to its shady walks 
and deUghtful points of view without any difficulty. It is a 
princely estate. The politeness and attention shown to stran- 
gers by these people^ both high and low, is truly delightful. 
Returned again to the eity, dined, and turned again to lioniz- 
ing y but I protested decidedly against employing a valei de 

4 



30 

place, in which my excellent young friend M. de B. fully con- 
curred. The tower of the Grosse-Horloge^ is a curious relique 
of ancient architecture and sculpture, designed, as its name 
imports, as a depository for the town-clock. The Abattoir, 
or public slaughter-house, is a magnificent establishment, in 
the faubourg St. Sever, and occupies ah area of 7337 metres, 
or about so many square yards, and was erected at an expense 
of 370,000 francs. Its avenues are planted with rows of fine 
trees, and are sufficiently spacious to permit a plentiful access 
of fresh air, and it is abundantly supplied with fresh water to 
carry off the filth. Here are immense apparatus for render- 
ing the tallow, scalding hogs, and cleaning the tripe, which is 
soaked and washed in large vats resembling tanner^s vats, 
and stirred by means of hooks with long handles, very much 
after the manner of hides. These establishments, I believe, 
are peculiar to France, and are highly worthy of imitation, as 
they must conduce much to the comfort and health of large 
cities. It is required by the municipal laws that all animals 
designed to supply the markets with meat, must be slaughter- 
ed in these abbatoirs, which are always located in open spaces 
in the suburbs, and thus every disagreeable odour and un- 
wholesome taint of the air in towns and cities are avoided. 

Near the church of St. Eloi, is the Marchc-anx- Veaux, be- 
fore which is an ope'n space called Place de la Pucelle, where 
the innocent Joan d'Arc (the maid of Orleans) was burnt, in 
1431. Opposite this is a singular old building, ornamented 
with cm'ious bas-reliefs, called the HoIqI du Bourgtherolde, 
erected in the XVth century. The Picture Gallery, in the 
Hotel de Ville, contains a considerable number of very fine 
paintings. The Great Hospital, situated in an open space, 
high and airy, at the termination of a magnificent avenue 
leading up from the river, contains 600 beds, and is a beauti- 
ful establishment. It is designed exclvisively for the inhabi- 
tants of the city. 

I am forcibly struck, whenever I enter a crowd, with the 
low stature of the men, and the strongly marked, not to say 
homely, features of the people. The costume of the common 
people is very strikhig ; the males being generally clad in blue 
blouses^ and the females wearmg those inuueuse white Norman 



NOTES OP TRAVEL. 31 

caps. Both sexes are shod with sabots, or wooden shoes, that 
make an annoying clatter on the pavements. There appears 
to be no attempt in the lower classes to imitate the higher in 
dress. The dispersion of the military, with their scarlet pan- 
taloons and glittering arms, in all directions, strongly arrests 
the attention of an American. The city is remarkably clean 
for the density of the population, and the people of all classes 
are very cheerful and happy. 

3d. — Set out at 6^ A. M. in the Cabriolet of the Diligence, 
for Paris, distant 30^ leagues (92 miles.) The Diligence, or 
stage, is an immense and cumbrous vehicle, with low and 
very broad wheels, divided into three compartments, called 
the coupe, the interieur, and the rotonde; in each of which 
the price of a seat varies, commencing at the coupe, which is 
in front, and considered the most eligible. This part contains 
but three seats, and is provided with glass windows, both be- 
fore and on the sides, and is sufficiently spacious to be exceed- 
ingly comfortable. On the top of the Diligence is a kind of 
gallery to contain the baggage, which is covered by one entire 
piece of leather, buckled down on the sides. In front of this 
gallery are four more seats, called the cabriolet; three .for 
passengers, and one for the Conducteur, (that important func- 
tionary of all Dihgences) protected by a falling top and apron. 
These are the cheapest seats, but decidedly the most pleasant 
in fair weather. Anterior to this is a small seat, perched like 
a swallow's nest, for the driver. I obsei*ved many little in- 
ventions about these vehicles, that .add very much to the 
comfort of passengers. Such for example, are pockets made 
in every part that will admit of them, for passengers to place 
their maps, guide-books, &c. in, so that they may be always 
at hand — straps nailed against the top^of the different com- 
partments, so arranged with shdes as to secure your hat and 
carry it with perfect safety (for nearly all travellers wear caps 
in the stages) — Sloops made of leather, for the purpose of sup- 
porting the shoulders and head of the person on the iniddle 
^eat, if he chooses to sleep — straps and buckles to secure your 
umbrella, cane, &c. — nets for carrying your overcoat, &c. &c. 
All these contrivances, although small matters in themselves, 
are so convenient, that I consider them highly worthy of imi- 



32 NOTES OF TRAVEt* 

tation. These great land-boats are usually drawn by five 
horses, two at the tongue, and three abreast m front ; but in 
ascending mountains, or even considerable hills, they have 
relays of horses, and often attach eight, ten, and even twelve. 
I constantly admired the extreme humanity and kindness 
manifested towards their animals, both by the Conducteur, the 
driver, and the passengers ; for in mounting hills, the former 
always, and the latter generally descended and walked, which 
is so much the more easy, as the vehicles ascend very slowly ; 
but when once arrived at the top, and all having again taken 
their seats, we were driven down with a most fearful velocity, 
the horses being generally put in a full gallop. The horses 
are thick-set, crooked limbed, wicked looking fellows, gener- 
ally all studs, and most commonly grays, which seems to be 
a favourite colour. They are mireined and loosely hitched, 
and every scrub of them has his own gait, which seems a 
matter of the most perfect indifference to the driver, so that 
they get out of the way of the vehicle. The harness is abso- 
lutely of the most slovenly and awkward kind, with inmiensely 
high collars, and rope traces; and the whole accoutrement is 
never washed or greased^ from the time it leaves the saddler's 
hands. The whole establishment is under the direction of 
two persons, the driver and the Conducteur. The first is 
changed with every change of horses, but the latter is the 
commodore, and goes all the way through. The Conducteur 
is a respectable looking, intelligent and very civil person, dres- 
sed inmiiform, commonly a blue roundabout with standing col- 
lar, ornamented with a horse's head or coachman^s horn, in 
silver, and a blue cloth cap, with a long loose top dangling to 
one side, also decorated with the sarfle insignia. By his side 
is slimg a leather bag, in which he carries his way-bill, and 
all letters and small "packages that may be handed to him. 
His seat is on the left side of the cabriolet, where he has a 
crank that commands the lock of the Diligence, which he 
manages with so much care and judgment, that the horses are 
never obliged to hold back, even in crossing the conduits of 
the road. He also carries an enormous copper watch, secured 
by an immense guard-chain of iron or brass wire, which serves 
as his chronometer. All disputes about seats, rights, privileges^ 



"NOTES OF TRAVEI,. S3 

^c. among the passengers, are referred to " Monsieur le Con- 
ducteur,''' who forthwith decides upon them in the style of a 
pacha, and from whose dixit there is no appeal. The cash 
system is strictly adhered to in these establishments, and the 
•€onducteur .performs also the function of cashier, for which 
purpose he has a drawer under his seat, under lock and key, 
€ontaining his money bag, from which he counts out the pay 
of every relay keeper at the top of the hill, and to every dri- 
ver at the end of his course. From his intimate knowledge 
^of every object along the road, and his great civility, he beomes 
an important eracle to all the passengers, and particularly to 
those in the cabriolet. 

The roads are superb, all graded and McAdamized, and 
:absolutely without a rut. Sometimes before entering a con- 
siderable town, they are found paved with square blocks of 
stone, for leagues. They are shaded nearly the whole dis- 
tance from Rouen to Paris, by two rows of trees, generally 
elms, which are frequently so large as to interlace their branches 
and form perfect arcades for miles. This is delightful on a 
hot summer's day. It is no longer a matter of -surprise to me 
that foreigners complain of our roads, after being accustomed 
to such as these. 

The country on this route is beautifully diversified by hill 
-and valley ; every part is cultivated like a garden,and although 
the soil in itself is light, (gravel mixed with chalk) it is made 
very productive by industry. This is an agricultural district, 
and the crops consist chiefly of rye and oats, interspersed with 
numerous patches of woad. Extensive prime and apple or- 
chards are common, and there are some vineyards. The in- 
habitants reside most commonly in the villages strung at short 
distances along the road ; the houses are mostly built of stone 
and thatched, and exhibit no very favourable idea of comfort 
or neatness, unless it be in the mode of cultivating their gar- 
dens, which are certainly very tasteful. The people appear 
cheerful and happy. The appearance of a country entirely 
open, totally destitute of fences and hedges, was to me a curi- 
ous and interesting spectacle ; nor could my fellow passengers 
comprehend the possibility of each man's property being en- 
closed by fences. Besides the villages, we passed through the 



34 NOTES OP TRAVEL. 

towns of Ecoiiis, Clair, Magny and Pontoise ; none of them 
worthy of particular remark. At 6 P. M. we arrived at the 
Mtssagerie Roy ale, rue Notre Dame de Victories, where our 
baggage underwent another superficial examination. While 
the examination was in progress, M. de B. and myself selected 
a porter from among the great number that offered their ser- 
vices, and when it was finished, we asked for his wheelbarrow j 
a question he seemed at a loss to comprehend, and demanded 
whether we had more than the two trunks, and two or three 
carpet-bags, and several over-coats, umbrellas, &.c. We re- 
plied in the negative ; when he observed, '• ne vous donnez 
pas de peine, je les port era i f'' (don't trouble yourselves, I'll 
carry them,) and began piling them on a double yoke which 
tliey carry on their backs by shoulder-straps, like a knapsack; 
and having secured them by a rope, he shouldered this im- 
mense load, and, to our great astonishment, walked off with- 
out the slightest difficulty. Scarcely any thing less than a 
cart would have served our porters for transporting such a 
weight. We took rooms at the Hotel Bergere, cite Bergere^ 
a few paces from the Bouhvards Montmartre, and quite near 
the Boulevards des Italiens, the most fashionable in the- city. 
I say took rooms, for it is the custom in this country to hire 
rooms merely, in the hotels, for which you pay a stipulated 
price per day ; (and persons who wish to guard against impo- 
sition always settle this matter definitely) and you are then at 
perfect liberty to take your meals in the house, or to take 
them "en ville,^^ that is, at the Gaffes and Restaurants where- 
ever you may be, when your appetite prompts you to eat. 
This plan is certainly much more equitable, as well as more 
convenient for a stranger than our own, and there it is but 
one possible objection that I have to make to French liotels, 
and that is, they have no room common to all travellers where 
a foreigner may have an opportunity of studying the people. 
4th. — It really appears to me like a dream that I am 
nearly four thousand miles from home, and that the mighty 
Atlantic is rolling its black, boisterous and unfathomable 
waves between me and all that is most dear to me, and 
that I have passed over its vast and restless expanse in less 
than one short month I This, then, is Paris, the magnificent 



NOTES OP TRAVEL. 35 

capital of the most polished nation on the face of the globe ! 
The great centre of the arts and sciences of the civilized 
world ! I can with difficulty realize it ! ! I rose at an early- 
hour, and accompanied by my excellent friend, M. de B., 
went to Galignani's {Rue Vivienne 18.) I subscribed to the 
reading room, and purchased a guide-book and map of the city, 
and wandered out very much at random through its intermi- 
nable streets, its squares, passages and gardens until I became 
bewildered by their magnitude and splendor \ Gahgnani's 
Reading Room and Library is a delightful place of resort, 
where you may procure for eight francs per month the read- 
ing of innumerable gazettes and periodicals published in all 
languages and countries under the sun; besides having access 
to an immense and excellently selected Library of modern 
works in French, English, German, Spanish, Italian, and per- 
haps other languages. These rooms are situated in the back 
part of one of those large, open courts which always apper- 
tain to large houses in this city, remote from the never-ceas- 
ing turmoil and noise of one of its most crowded thorough- 
fares, and are l-uxuriantly fitted up with divans and cushioned 
arm-chairs covered with scarlet velvet, and at night splen- 
didly lit up with gas. You may here continually find stran- 
gers from every country in the world. 

5th. — As my present lodgings are too remote from the hos- 
pitals, the principal attractions for me, I went out this morn- 
ing, with the design of taking a room in the ^'pays latin^'' 
(the Latin quarter) beyond the Seine, and succeeded in find- 
ing one to suit me, in the Rtie des petits Jiugustins 10. ,My 
'friend, M. de B. having determined to lodge with me, assisted 
me in making the selection. This business being settled, we 
set out for another random stroll about the city. 

The city of Paris, the capital of France, or as the French in- 
sist, the capital of the civilized world, is built on both banks 
and a considerable island of the Seine, and is 3 miles in 
width, and a little over 5 miles in length. Its circuit measures 
1 3 miles, and embraces an area of 345 Hectores, equal to 
about 9620 acres; a place surprisingly small for the number 
of the population, which at the last census amounted to 909,- 
126 exclusive of troops and strangers. The streets, with few 

4* 



36 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

exceptions, are narrow; often not wider than to admit a 
single carriage at a time ; unprovided with foot-walks, or 
having them very narrow ; and (he gutters in the middle, 
with the sides sloping towards them. One may easily con- 
ceive the difficulty that the foot-passenger has of saving his 
toes from being crushed by passing vehicles, particularly 
when the dense crowd that constantly throngs the streets in 
this populous city, is taken into consideration. Nothing is 
more common than to fmd yourself forced to take refuge from 
such accidents, by crowding into door-ways (which, fortu- 
nately, are very large,) on steps, or by flying for a corner ; 
and there you don't always avoid being soiled. Certainly 
nothing but the extreme politeness of the French of all classes, 
could save the dense crowds in the streets under these circum^ 
stances from being incessantly embroiled in quarrels. But 
no one ever brushes against you strongly, without touching his 
hat and crying '•^pardon Monsieur -^''^'excusez^^^ Sic, and as to 
their politeness to the ladies, that is proverbial, and great praise 
is justly due them ; consequently females encounter but little 
difficulty even where the streets are choked ; for the uncouth 
looking drayman will doif his " bonnet'' and arrest his cart 
to let them pass. The whole circuit of Paris is enclosed by 
a wall of considerable strength ; not as a defence against ene- 
mies, for the buildings run up to their very base, but to in- 
sure the due collection of the " octrof or duty that every 
article of provision is obliged to pay on entering the capital 
for the use of the city. At every one of the 60 " JBarrieres'' 
are ^tationed armed men in uniform, with sundry long spears 
and skewers, for examining hay-wagons, sand-carts, sacks,' 
Sue., who stop every carriage and omnibus, and search every 
cranny and nook, even to the travelling baskets of the ladies. 
Immediately on the inside of these walls is a beautiful wide 
and McAdamised street, extending their whole length, 
planted with two rows of stately trees, called the " Boulevards 
Exterieurs'' and forms a charming drive. Those are not 
the far-famed " Boulevards,*' so much and justly admired by 
all strangers who visit this gay city. These are called the 
'^ Boulevards Interieurs" or simply the ''Boulevards" par 
excellence, and form the most magnificent and imposing street 



NOTES OF TRAVEL. 37 

and promenade on the face of the globe. This street is very 
wide, well paved, and provided with beautiful spacious side- 
walks of asphalte, and is shaded by a double row of fine elms, 
and makes the circuit of the city about mid-way between its 
-centre and the exterior Boulevards, Many of its fine trees, 
however, were cut down during the three days' revolution of 
1830, to barricade the street. They are now replaced by 
young ones. Nearly the whole distance of the Boulevards 
on the Southern side of the Seine is lined on both sides by 
stately and splendid private houses, nearly all of which have 
their basement stories occupied by those large and magnifi- 
cent shops, so peculiar to Paris, interspersed with numerous 
theatres and other public edifices, including the beautiful 
church of the Madeleine^ and the two curious old gates, St. 
Denis and St. Martin. These gates are very imposing, and 
formed the main in and egress to the city by the walls that 
occupied the space now forming the Boulevards, and which 
were levelled for the purpose of making this grand street. 
This is the place where all the fashionable world congregates, 
either on foot or in carriages, to see and be seen ; to exhibit 
themselves, their dress, their equipages, &c., &c., and the 
whole grand avenue is constantly filled by a dense flood of 
population of never-ceasing restlessness and ever-moving tur- 
moil, like the troubled waters oi the restless ocean. 

The houses of Paris are very lofty, generally from 4 to 6 
stories, and sometimes even extending to 8, 10 or 12 stories; 
built very permanently of stones and covered with tiles. The 
mode of building as the mode of living, is entirely difierent 
from our own. The houses have extensive fronts and are 
built in the form of a quadrangle, with a square or oblong 
court, generally well paved with stones in the centre, and 
into which the windows from the three back wings look, and 
from it receive their light. This court is entered by a large 
gate or folding doors, (the only entrance to the house) called 
the '^porte cochere,'' and is sufficiently spacious, as its name 
implies, to admit carriages, which are always driven into them 
to deposit passengers, as the streets are commonly too nar- 
row to admit of their stopping before the houses. To the 
right and left of the quadrangle, two wide stair-ways, fre- 



38 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

quently of stone, lead to the apartments of the house. On 
every story the staircase is terminated by a spacious landing- 
place, which, in the best houses, is paved with tesselated 
marble, from which numerous doors lead to the different 
apartments. These apartments, or suits of apartments, are 
of various dimensions, and finished in different styles, 
to suit the means and views of renters; but generally 
families live within an infinitely smaller compass than 
they do with us. A suit of apartments of course comprises^ 
parlors, chambers, kitchens, pantries, &:c.,&c., in short a ivhole 
house. The front part of the basement story is very com- 
monly occupied by shops or offices, and the " concierge'^ or 
porter's lodge ; for every house has its porter, who exercises 
a kind of general supervision over the establishment, keeps 
the stair-ways and court-yard clean, and is always at hand to 
direct strangers where to find the inmates, to receive notes, 
letters, papers, &c., &c., directed to the occupants. The back 
part of the basement is generally occupied as stables and 
coach-houses, or is also rented out to 'families at a low rate; 
for they are generally damp and unhealthy, and then they are 
not considered comme il fend. A house, therefore, in 
Paris is a world within itself, and contains from fifteen to 
thirty families, each one as totally unknown to the other as 
if they were antipodes. The floors are most commonly con- 
structed of pentagonal tiles, 6 or 7 inches in diameter, painted 
red and highly polished with wax. In many of the better 
houses they are of wood, generally pine, cut into strips about 
3 inches wide and 15 or 18 inches long, joined at their ex- 
tremities at an angle of about thirty degrees, and form in the 
transverse direction a zigzag, which is very pleasing to the 
eye, particularly in ample apartments. These floors are 
called ^^parqiiets,^^ and are polished with wax to a degree 
that makes them reflect objects like a mirror, and imparts to 
them the appearance of beautiful silver-grained oak. The 
walls are covered with paper hangings, which the French 
excel in manufacturing, of an extraordinary brilliancy and 
beauty. All closet doors, and even doors leading to different 
apartments, are ingeniously concealed by extending the paper 
over them, and this, with the proper arrangement of large 



KOTES OP TRAVEL. 39 

mirrors, (always part of the furniture of a French room) is ex- 
ceedingly well calculated to make the best of small apart- 
ments. This might be well worthy of the attention of our 
architects, who are not sufficiently careful to avoid the un- 
sightly appearance of numerous doors in our apartments, or do 
it at the expense of the great convenience of closets. I was 
often amused to think of the odd position our good house- 
wives would feel themselves placed in, if they were under 
the necessity of preparing a dinner in a Parisian kitchen; 
which I am confident they would not consider sufficiently 
ample for a pantry ! But many of their kitchen arrange- 
ments are highly worthy of introduction among us. 

As is the case with most strangers who visit fhis extraor- 
dinary capital, I had the most intense curiosity to see its great 
centre, the Palais Royal, the capital of Paris as it has been 
called. The Palais Royal is situated near the centre of 
Paris, not far from the Palace of the Tuileries, the present 
royal residence, and is entered from the Place du Palais 
Royal, on the Rue St. Honore, by an imposing Doric arcade 
and gateway. Its form is a parallelogram of mason-work, 
ornamented with various embellishments and statues, enclos- 
ing a Ci^urt of similar form. The upper stories are beautifully 
finished^ and contain extensive galleries of French paintings. 
These apartments were occupied by the present king while 
he was Duke of Orleans. But it is the garden and galleries 
of this palace that are most interesting to a stranger. The 
garden, or more properly, the court yard, is 700 feet long by 
300 wide, planted with eight rows of linden trees, running in 
the direction of its length. Between the central rows at each 
end are two beautiful garden-plots planted with shrubbery, 
enameled with gay flowers, and embellished with fine statues 
in marble and bronze. In the centre is a large stone basin, 
supplied with water by a beautiful jet d'^eaii, with numerous 
branches, which refresh the air by their incessant showers. 
The other parts of this great court are covered with fine grav- 
el, beaten hard and constantly irrigated, to allay the dust and 
cool the atmosphere. At e^ch extremity of the great central 
avenues, are pretty hexagonal pavilions, occupied as ^'cabinets 
de lecture,''^ at which newspapers are hired out at a sous a 



40 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

piece, and which are constantly surrounded by crowds of poli- 
ticians and news-mongers. The court is formed by the build- 
ings of the palace, which surround it on (three sides, the fourth 
being occupied by the recently erected magnificent " Gallerie 
d^ OrleoMS.^^ This gallerie, 300 feet long by 40 wide, is two 
stories high, arched over with glass, and paved with black 
and white maa:ble. It is lined on both sides by rows of the 
most splendid shops, whose entire fronts are glazed, and the 
pilasters which separate them are covered with plate looking- 
glass. The splendour of this magnificent gallery when illumi- 
nated by the flood -of light poured from its immense gas lamps, 
softened by their ground shades, and the innumerable lights 
from the shops, is truly dazzling. One of the most imposing 
spectacles of this gay city, is this gallery in the evenings 
crowded as it always is at this hour, with all that is fashiona- 
ble, gay, grotesque and curious ; where may be seen the cos- 
tumes of all known comitries, and the confused murmur of 
:€very language on the face of the earth. The movement of 
this dense crowd, up on the right ajid down on the left, in un- 
ceasing rounds, is really bewildering. Beyond the Gallerie 
d'' Orleans, are .the -court and buildings of the Palace proper. 
The two great wings, and the south end, are composed of an 
uniform structure. Fluted pilasters, elegantly ornamented, 
support a balustrade, upon which are vases which cover its 
whole length. On the ground floor, an elevated gallery sur- 
rounds the buiMing, with 180 arcades, between every two of 
which is suspended a large lamp. They terminate en both 
sides in a vestibule adorned with magnificent columns. The 
intervals are ornamented with festoons and bae-reliefs. Under 
this grand gallery are those splendid shops so attractive to 
strangers,and «o unequalled in their richness, variety, and the 
beauty of their arrangement. It is here that you may find all 
that it is possible to .devise to please the taste, to gratify the 
senses, or to instruct the intellect. Here you find books, the 
.oldest and the newest, the most profoundly philosophical and 
the most frivolous; shops contsdning the richest and most 
costly jewellery, ornamented with all that is rare and brilliant 
in precious stones — watches, clocks and time-pieces, of the 
most varied and elegant forms, wrought out of materials the 



jsro-rEs OF travel. 4t 

most rare and expensive ; Milliners' shops, filled with the 
most elegant gauze, ribands, flowers and feathers, arranged 
with a taste that can only be attained in the Palais Royal. 
One window glitters with the most brilliant silk stuff, disposed 
in the most captivating manner ; and another with the finest 
cloths, the richest cashmere shawls, or the most delicate em- 
broidery. Here yau see set out the most beautifiil porcelain ; 
there an exposition of richly ornamented plate in massive 
silver and gold. This shop offers you all that is exquisite in 
the art of engraving ; that one perfumes the air' with its deli- 
cious odours. Bonbons and optical instruments, playthings 
and arms, the insignia of orders tastefully wrought in precious 
stones and gold, exquisitely painted pipes and beautifully 
carved '^ meerschaums,^' luxurious toilette furniture, and arti- 
cles of dress finished in the most elegant manner, are spread 
out in endless variety before you. The choicest delicacies 
from sea and land, from the provinces and from foreign coun- 
tries, tempt you at the beautifully decorated windows of the 
restaurants " FeT-y," "Fe/bwr," and '^ Les trois Jrere^ Proven- 
gaux,^^ while the best ices and most delicate coffee is found 
at the Cafes '^de la Rotonde,^^ ^'de Foij' and "c?e Tnille Col- 
mines ^^ fitted up with carvings, gold, mirrors and arabesques, 
in royal magnificence. The shops in these galleries, although 
small, pay an annual rent of from 3 to 4000 francs, to their 
proprietor, the present king ; and for the privilege of hiring 
out chairs at % smcs a piece, under the linden trees of this 
crowded caurt-yard, a rent of 30,000 francs (^^,000) is paid ! 
That nothing may be wanting to minister to the full gratifica- 
tion of every earthly pleasure, the two most fashionable thea- 
tres of the city, the Theatre Frangais, and the Theatre die 
Palais Royal, are within the precincts of this magnificent 
bazaar. The Palais Royal, as may readily be supposed, is 
crowded from day-light in the morning tiU 12 o'clock at night, 
by one continued stream o-f human beings, embracing all that 
is grotesque and fantastic, gay, dissolute, idle and fashionable. 
Every country may here find its representative, and every 
nation may find opportunity to speak in its own tongue. 
Here too, you may find concentrated newspapers and periodi- 



42 KOTES OP TRAVEL. 

cals from every country in the world. It is here that all men 
congregate to hear, tell, and see what is new. 

6th. — In company with my friend M. de B. and Mad. V. 
of Geneva, cojnpagnons de voyage, I repaired to the ^^ Debar- 
cadere^'' (depot) of the ''rive droite,^^ (for there are two rail 
roads from Paris to Versailles) took a seat in one of the cars, 
and in three-quarters of an hour, after a delightful ride of 5 
leagues, was set down before the gates of the sumptuous royal 
palace of Versailles. The country passed over is one of the 
most delightful in the world. It is beautifully undulating, or 
in parts even hilly, covered with vineyards, orchards and 
pretty gardens, interspersed with beautiful cottages and villas. 
The elegant forest, called Bois de Boulogne, is skirted for 
some distance, with the Seine intervening, of which glimpses 
are got from time to tinie, and forms a pleasing contrast with 
the more varied colors of the well cultivated country opposite. 
A fortification or two, and several pretty villages, farther tend 
to vary the delightful scene. The depot of the rive droiU 
(the right bank) in the city, is in an unfinished state, but will 
be a fine solid and convenient structure. The " huraxix de 
places,^'' or ticket offices, are in a large court as you enter the 
building. There are three of them, to correspond with tlie 
tliree classes of cars, guarded by railings, forming a passage 
so narrow as to admit but one or two persons at a time. In- 
dividuals belonging to each class of cars, have a separate 
apartment assigned them to await the hour of starting, and a 
separate door of egress to take their seats. All these arrange- 
ments, including a display of glittering bayonets, are well cal- 
culated to preserve the most perfect order ; and, except the 
latter, are highly worthy of imitation. The road, upon which 
are several tunnels, is one of excellent construction, and the 
best cars are exceedingly comfortable. They are divided into 
several compartments, and each passenger, in the first class, 
has his seat separated from the rest by arms. Every thing 
upon this road is conducted with the greatest precaution, and 
an unceasing attention to safety ; which struck me very forci- 
bly as contrasting with the recklessness of Yankee go-aheada- 
tiveness. At distances which can be easily seen, are men in 
uniform stationed with small Hugs iu their hands. When 



NOTES OF TRAVEL. 43 

these are held up, it is a notification to the engineman that 
^'totit est en regle,^^ ("all's right") and that he can proceed 
with safety. But should he not see the flag, he arrests the 
engine immediately, knowing there is something wrong. 

The town of Versailles is pretty regularly laid out, has wide 
and well-paved streets, and fine buildings, and contains at 
present 30,000 inhabitants ; but before the revolution it con- 
tained 100,000. The magnificent and sumptuous Palace, with 
its vast museum of historical paintings, is however the great 
attraction here. It appears that in 1561, Versailles was a 
small village, in the midst of woods where Henry IV used to 
come to hunt. It was afterwards much frequented for the 
same purpose by Louis XIII, who in 1624 built on the site 
of the present Palace, a small pavillion, as a resting place dur- 
ing their excursions. But the present magnificent structures 
date from 1664, when Louis XIV commenced the execution 
of his grand plans. With all the expedition that could be 
given to the works undertaken by this luxurious monarch, 
(for sometimes 30,000 of his troops were simultaneously em- 
ployed on them) the Palace was not in a sufficient state of 
forwardness for him to take up his residence in it, before the 
^ear 1681. At this time it was the most sumptuous and mag- 
nificent residence of the richest and most brilliant court in the 
world. The gardens and park were in extent and decoration 
fully equal to the dimensions and splendour of the Palace. 
The park had a circuit of 20 leagues, or 60 miles, and is sup- 
posed to have cost more than the Palace and its decorations. 
The aggregate cost of the whole is said to have amounted to 
200 millions of dollars. Versailles remained the residence of 
the court of France up to the time of the revolution ; when it 
became desolate, and the Palace was stripped of its costly 
and gorgeous furniture, and sold as national property. It is 
said that Napoleon would have made it his residence, had it 
not been for the 50 millions of francs it»was estimated to re- 
quire in order to restore it. His judgment and usual good 
sense, however, prevented its being sold in lots, or made a 
branch of the Hotel des Invalides, which was proposed. He 
spent a considerable sum upon it in repairs. Louis XVIII 
also had a strong desire to reside in this Palace, but similar 



44 KOTES or TRAVEL. 

considerations prevented him. He however spent 6 miUions 
of francs judiciously in restoring and repairing the apartments. 
It remained for Louis Phihppe, not only to restore this grand 
Palace to its former magnificence, reihoving many petty ar- 
rangements which marred the great conceptions of Louis XIV, 
but also to add several new galleries and saloons. He has 
already expended 15 milhons of francs, and the improvements 
are still progressmg. 

One approaches the Palace by the Place (P^irmes, el fine 
open space, 800 feet wide, terminating the Avenue de Paris. 
This is flanked on each side by large buildings arranged in a 
semicircle, with courts enclosed by iron railings, and having 
lofty gateways, ornamented with sculpture. These are the 
Ecuries Royales, or royal stables, sufficiently capacious to 
contain 1000 horses, with apartments to lodge the grooms. 
They are at present occupied by troops of cavalry. Beyond 
this is the Grande Cour, separated from the Place d'Armes 
by a beautiful iron railing, richly gilt, entered by a grand 
gateway ornamented with scuJpture. This magnificent court 
is 380 feet wide, and is embellished with a large number of 
beautiful statues in marble, ranged along the railing and on 
each side, mostly representing the great men of France. It is 
flanked on each side by rows of plam buildings, erected by 
Louis XIV for the accommodation of his ministers ; and to- 
wards the opposite end is a colossal equestrian statue of this 
monarch, in bronze. At the termination of the Grande Corn- 
is the Cour Royale, formerly separated from it by iron rail- 
ings, which were destroyed by the revolutionists. Within 
this none but the royal carriages were formerly admitted. 
This court is flanked by the two wings of the Palace, in a 
beautiful and chaste style of Corinthian architecture, bearmg 
the inscription that annoimces its present destination — "a 
TouTEs LEs GLoiREs DE LA France." Bcyoud tliis is the 
magnificent Cour ae Marbre, surrounded by all that is chaste 
in architecture, and beautiful in sculptural ornament. From 
the Cour Royale you enter a great nmnber of other courts of 
various dimensions, surrounded by grand architecture, of va- 
rious styles and degrees of beauty. By the Cour de la Cha- 
pelhy and the Cour des Princes, you gain access to the 



NOTES OF TRAVEL. 45 

s\iinptuo"i2s gardens of this stupendous palace, and get a view 
of its grand facade, the grandest specimen of architecture in 
France. The plain republican stands petrified before this 
colossal mass of royal structure, and wonders that subjects 
were ever found from whom sufficient sums could be extorted 
for its construction ! It presents an enormous central mass of 
building, with two immense wings, consisting of a ground 
floor, a first floor and an attic, in the Doric, Ionic and Corin- 
thian orders, respectively. The whole length of the front is 
800 feet, pierced by 357 windows and doors ; and each of 
its retiring sides measures 260 feet. The tout ensemble of 
the architecture is strikingly grand; and the light colored 
stone of which it is constructed, is peculiarly delicate. 

The ground floor of the centre has been restored to its 
original form by Louis Philippe, and is filled principally by 
the portraits of the Grand Admirals, Generals, and Marshals 
of France. One ascends to the first floor by the Escalier de 
Marbre, a grand and magnificent stair-case in party-colored 
marble. This floor was occupied by the private apartments 
of Louis XIV, and was the most sumptuous part of this 
magnificent Royal residence. These have also been restored 
hy the present king, and are filled with historical paintings 
relating to the time of the " Grand MonarqueP One of 
these apartments is the sanctum sanctorum of the palace, 
the chambre a couchor (bed-chamber) of the king. Its decora- 
tions are exceedingly chaste and beautiful. Within a splen- 
didly gilded balustrade is the Royal bed, covered with the 
richest embroidered scarlet and gold hangings, with a kneel- 
ing stool and desk for prayers on one side, and a dressing- 
table, of exquisite workmanship on the other. In it Louis 
XIV died. After passing through an immense number of 
apartments, all vieing to excel each other in sumptuous rich- 
ness and royal splendor, and crowded with paintings, you 
finally arrive at the " Grande Jippartiments^^^ the acme of 
all that imagination can suggest of grandeur and magnifi- 
cence. Those on the north belonged to the king ; they are 
spacious and lofty, encrusted with dark marble, and heavily 
and richly gilt. Those on the south, were occupied by the. 
c^ueen ; are equally spacious, and richly finished in white an4 



46 NOTES- OF TRAVEL. 

gold, which imparts to them a beautiful effect of cheerful- 
ness. The elevated and beautifully finished ceilings of both- 
are splendidly painted with luxuriantly warm pictures. All 
these apartments, too, are fiiled with paintings. After revel- 
ling to dreaminess amid the regal magnificence of these suits 
of courtly halls, you arrive at the '• Grande Gallerie des Gla- 
ces,^^ regarded as the finest hall in the world. It extends 
along the whole length of the central facade and measures 
242 feet in length, is 35 feet wide, and 43 high. It is hghted 
by 17 immense arched Avindows ; opposite, and to corres- 
pond with each, are as many arcades filled with mirrors ; 60 
pilasters of red marble, with bases and capitals o-f gilt bronze. 
fill up the intervals between the wnidows and arcades, and 
the entrances are finished with columns of the same material 
and in the same style. The high vaulted ceiling is sumptu- 
ously painted in compartments by Lebrmi, and the door is 
beautifully pai^quetted, and so highly pohshed whh wax, 
that it becomes quite a labor to walk on it. When the eye is 
cast along the floor of this stupendous hall, it appears thrown 
into ridges and depressions, by the seams where the narrovx*- 
strips of boards fonning the floor are jomed. So deceptive i§ 
this appearance, that I frequently found myself bracing my 
muscles to anticipate a fall. Some idea of the magnificence 
of the French court under Louis XIV, may be formed from 
what Vatout says: — ''It was in this gallery that Louis XIV 
displayed all the grandeiu* of royalty ; and such was the 
luxury of the times, such the splendor of the court, that this 
immense room could hardly contain the crowd of courtiers 
that pressed round the monarch.'' 

After passing through another bewildering succession of 
sumptuous appartments, ornamented with all that luxury 
could invent or wealth purchase ; decorated with the most 
elaborate works and the greatest eflbrts of modern painters : 
you arrive at the Salle du Sucre, which contains those two 
magnificent pictures by David, the coronation of Napoleon, 
and the distribution of the Eagles to the Legions. For the 
former of these, this celebrated artist received 100,000 francs, 
and for the latter 7S,000. 

Here is another liall of great interest, the Salle des Heros, 



NOTES OF TRAVEL. 47 

or the Salle de 1792. This contains the portraits of all the 
great military characters of the revolution, as they were in 
1792. Many of these likenesses are double, representing the 
persons in the characters they bore at a later period, when 
their fortunes were vastly advanced. Thus the portrait of 
Napoleon will be observed as Lieutenant Colonel in 1792, and 
as Emperor in 1804 ; Marshal Soult as Sergeant in 1792, and 
as Duke de Dalmatie in 1804; Murat as Sub-Lieutenant in 
1792, and King of Naples in 1808; Marshal Barnadotte as 
Lieutenant in 1792, and Prince de Pontecorooin 1804: Louis 
Philippe as Lieutenant-General in 1792, and as King of the 
Frencli in 1830, &c. 

The Southern Wing is called the Ailedes Prmce^, and con- 
tains, on the ground floor, an immense suit of rooms, facing 
the gardens, filled with the military history of Napoleon from 
1796 to 1809; painted on more than 300 canvasses. Also on 
the ground floor, and behind those rooms is a single gallery 
of 372 feet in length, filled with the statues and busts of cele- 
brated generals, from 1790 to 1815. Immediately over this 
on the first floor, is the GaUerie de Louis XIV, of the same 
dimensions, and filled with the statues and busts of distin- 
guislied personages, from 1500 to 1792. On this floor of the 
south wing, is the stupendous and magnificent hall, called the 
'• Grande GaUerie dcs Batoilles,^^ measuring 393 feet in 
length, 42 in width, and as much in height. It is lighted by 
large sky-lights from its vaulted ceiling, which is beautifully 
painted, and richly gilt. The ends are painted in rich frescos. 
The walls of this immense gallery are covered by oo pictures 
of great dimensions, representing the chief victories of the 
French nation. Among these is one representing the battle 
of York-town, in which General Lafayette is the principal 
actor; that battle being of course claimed as a French victoi^y. 
Voila la gloire Francaise ! The view of this gallery is 
exceedingly imposing. 

In the Northern Wii:!g, fronting the gardens, is a suit of 
apartments, containing a series of pictures illustrating the 
history of France up to the revolution. Behind this is a 
gallery 300 feet long, containing the statues, busts and efiigies 
of kings, queens and illustrious persons, up to the times of 



48 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

Louis XV. This series is continued in a gallery directly over 
this, and is brought down to 1830. In this part of the palace 
is a grand suit of apartments erected by Louis Phillipe, and 
but recently opened to the public. The chief objects of 
interest they contain, are the pictures illustrating the events of 
the reign of the present king; among which the battles of 
Algiers are conspicuous. In this wing is also the Chapel, 
measuring 114 feet in length, 60 in width and S6 in height. 
Its 'decorations are of the most costly and sumptuous kind, 
displayed with the most scrupulous regard to taste. The 
pavement is of precious marbles of different colors, wrought 
in mosaic work. The ceiling is a fine arch, resting on a rich 
cornice, supported by columns of marble and bronze gilt, and 
is beautifully painted. The chapels contain some beautiful 
specimens of painting and sculpture, and very fine bronze 
bas-reliefs. I doubt whether any thing exists that excels the 
chaste beauty of this royal chapel 

The gardens and park, although less than they were in the 
time of Louis XIV, still cover an immense surface ; extend- 
ing 7 leagues in length. It is impossible to convey an ade- 
quate idea of the truly royal sumptuousness of these gardens. 
Besides an infinite display of all that is rare, curious and 
beautiful in trees, shrubs and flowers, arranged with the most 
exquisite taste and curious attention to contrast and variety, 
they are crowded, for miles, with the most splendid speci- 
. mens of sculpture and casting. Statues, fountains, ye/5 d'eau, 
basins, lakes, bridges, summer-houses, pavilions, grottos, all 
finished in the most exquisite style, are spread in extraordi- 
nary profusion over these grounds. A first visit to them is 
truly bewildering, and one may spend weeks in them before 
gaining an accurate idea of their plan. One of these foun- 
tains, representing water-falls, from which torrents and sheets 
descend, alone cost 1,500,000 francs. (S 300,000.) Some of 
the jets are stupendous ; one of them throws an immense 
column of water to the enormous height of 70 feet ! The 
fountains are all supplied with water from the Seine, raised 
by immense machinery, and conveyed here at an enormous 
expense. The operation of the whole of these fountains, 
called " Les Grandes Eaux,'^ takes place but several times a 



KOTES OF TRAVEL. 49 

year, on account of the expense, for it costs each time about 
10,000 francs. (i^2,000.) 

We returned to the city in the evening, and took a stroll 
into the " Champs Elysees,^^ (the Elysian fields) where all the 
world resorts for amusement, particularly on Sunday. This 
is a large open space, thickly planted with beautiful shade 
trees, laid out in magnificent avenues, of which the principal 
one extends up a gentle aclivity, from the Place de la Con- 
corde to the Arch de Triomphe; a distance of about two 
miles. This, like the rest, is finely paved, skirted by wide 
side-walks, and is ornamented by an ^'EtoiW^ or central 
round plot, with a large basin and jet d^eau in its middle. 
The whole of these delightful grounds may embrace an area 
of four or five hundred acres. The only buildings within 
this space are designed as places of amusement, such as tem- 
porary theatres, a large circus, cafies, &c. Nothing can 
exceed the animation of the scene here on Sunday evening in 
summer, when this whole extent is brilliantly lit up with gas, 
and filled with a dense crowd of people, all moving to and 
fro : alternately obscured by the dark shadows of the forest, 
or illuminated by the floods of light from the lamps suspended 
from its boughs. All that can possibly minister to the grati- 
fication of a pleasure-loving people is here concentrated. 
Here you find music of all possible kinds, with parties danc- 
ing in all directions; ballad singers,- rope dancers, slight-of- 
hand men, electrizers, puppet shows, monkey theatres, 
flying horses, dancing bears, learned goats, swinging coaches, 
flying ships, throwing quoits, pitching pennies, shooting mark, 
roulette-tables, shufiie-board, &c., &c., &c., ad infinitum, I 
could not avoid remarking at every step the extreme sim- 
plicity and good nature of Jhese people. The merest trifle is 
sufficient to amuse them witn an intensity that is really ex- 
traordinary. All the stakes I saw put up at the games of 
hazard played here, were mere trifles — sous, and generally 
cakes, bonbons and toys, which were contended for with an 
interest into which their whole souls entered. It is the love 
of amusement that prompts them to play, and not the love of 
gain. Notwithstanding the immense crowd that is here con- 
gregated, the most perfect good humor and harmony prevail. 



50 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

An liabitiial consideration for the rights and comforts of others' 
causes a constant exercise of politeness among all classes ; the 
^^pardon^^ " excusez^^ ^^permittez,^^ with bows and scrapes, 
and tipping of hats, gives a most agreeable aspect to the 
scene. 

7th. — M. de B. and myself moved this morning to our new 
room, No. 10, Rue des Pet its ^lugustins, near the Academie 
des Beaux ..^r/,y, where we have a very neat room ^^aii second,''^ 
that is on the 3d story, (for they never count the first) fur- 
nished with all that neat display so peculiar to the French, at 
15 francs per week. After having arranged all our little 
domestic concerns, and congratulated each other on our snug 
quarters, I went to the American Embassage, to deliver some 
packets. As I had understood that General Cass, our minister, 
resided at Versailles, I neglected to take my letter of intro- 
duction with me. The General happening to be in the city, 
Mr. Ledyard, his son-in-law and Secretary of Legation, gave 
me an introduction to him. He received me with great 
politeness, said he recollected brother W. and made honorable 
mention of the late Governor Hiester. He honored me with 
an invitation to dine with him on Saturday next. I have 
received a packet from the Secretaiy of State, the Hon. 
Daniel Webster, containing a courier's pass-port for me, and 
^ome papers for the embassage. It appears this packet v/as* 
to have reached me before I left home, but as it -came too 
late, it was sent to the embassage were it awaited me. 1 
next called on Mr. M. of Philadelphia, for whom I had a 
letter, but not finding him in, I dined and took a long stroll 
through the '■^pays Latin,^' and Luxembourg Gardens, and 
paid a visit to the Ecole de Medicine. This part of the city 
is one of the oldest quarters, is^^y densely built with very 
high houses along tortuous, dark and narrow streets. But 
even this quarter is not so dirty as I expected to find it, from 
all I had heard of it. Indeed it was a constant subject of sur- 
prise to me to find Paris as clean as it is, with so dense a 
population. The grounds of the Luxembourg Palace are 
very pretty, having a neat flower-garden in front of it, with a 
fine basin of water in its centre, surrounded by elevated ter- 
races, their sides ornamented with vases, and their sloping 



N'OTES OvP TRATEL. ^ 51 

iDanlis profusely covered with fine shrubs, among which an 
immense variety of roses are particularly conspicuous. On 
the right side is an extensive and beautiful plantation of shade- 
trees ; and a smaller one on the left, with numerous stone 
benches under them. In the middl-e is a wide avenue, flanked 
with stately trees, leading to a spacious pair of iron gates, 
ornamented with sculpture. From this an imposing view of 
the front of tli^ Observatory is had. On the right of this 
avenue, is an extensive public nursery; on the left is the 
large and,^ well-regulated botanic garden of the School of 
Medicine. This delightful promenade is open to the public 
•every day, from daylight until dusk. Contrary to the received 
opinion at home, I find the French dress, particularly of the 
ladies, very plain ; but there is a beauty of fit and a perfect 
harmony in the whole that must strike th^ attention and 
agreeably interest even the most careless observer. Nothing 
can possibly exceed th-e magnificence and taste v/ith which 
the shop windows in this city are arranged. I am told that 
the art of arranging the good« is a peculiar profession, and 
that elVery shop employs an " Artiste'' or two of this kind, 
whose time is almost exclusively devoted to it. At the better 
shops the arrangement is changed every day. I should con- 
ceive the walking at night in any part of this city to be per- 
fectly safe. In the first place it is pretty well lighted with 
gas, and in the next place you meet the glitter of the bare 
bayonet at every turn. I say you see the bayonet, for it is 
with difficulty you distinguish the bearer of it, wrapt in his 
dark gray capot, and moving sifewly and silently along the 
sombre base of the high rows of houses. 

Sth. — The only thing I have to regret in my new lodgings, 
is the delicious coffee prep^tod by our excellent hostess. Mad. 
Marboutin of the Hotel I^^re. F;:ench coffee is so vastly 
superior to any thing of the kind I have ever tasted, that it 
is scarcely possible to conceive it to be made of the same 
{materials. Took a walk to the Island, called par excellence, 
^^ La Cite^^ as it is here that the foundations of Paris were 
'Commenced under the Romans. It is a densely populated, 
dirty part of the town, v\^here the streets are unusually 
Marrow, and the houses unusually high and sombre. There 



52 IfOTES OF TRAVEL. 

are many streets here, whose damp and sUmy pavements 
have never been reached by the cheering rays of the sun. 
The Palais de Justice is here, a large edifice in which all the 
courts of law are held ; and the Cathedral " Notre Dame,'' a 
fine large Gothic structure, which dates from the 12th century. 
It is certainly a fine specimen of architecture, but in my 
opinion cannot be compared with several of the churches at 
Eouen. Immediately by the side of this, and in the court of 
the church is the large and far-famed hospital, the '• Hotel 
Dieu/' which at this time I could only view on its exterior. 
I delivered a letter to Baron Delessert, member of the Cham- 
ber of Deputies, and extensively known for his scientific 
acquirements and his great liberality. He possesses great 
urbanity of manners, and received me with much kindness. 
He speaks English with considerable fluency. I dined at the 
" Taverne ^^?iglaise/' with my friends, Messrs. F., C, and 
C, artists from Boston. The v/eather and the people here 
must in some way be influenced by each other; for the for- 
mer I find exceedingly capricious, and the latter are so by 
common consent. 

9 th. — Rose at an early hour and went to make a visit at 
the Hotel Dieu. The professional visits to the hospitals in 
Paris, and indeed throughout France, are commenced very 
early in the morning, say at 6 o'clock in summer, and 7 in 
winter. The Hotel Dieu is the oldest hospital and one of the 
largest in the city. It may also be considered as the model 
of the rest. Its foundation is attributed to St. Landri, Bishop 
of Paris in the 7th century. .,^ts entrance is approached by a 
wide flight of steps leading to a plain neat vestibule, prettily 
paved with marble, and ornamented with several statues of 
benefactors of the institute, and^nie portraits of celebrated 
professional men. Bar. DupuytSiP Dubois, &.c. From this 
vestibule or court, doors' open to the diff"erent wards on the 
ground floor, and to a neat chapel, an invariable appendage 
to a French hospital. From this also, access is obtained to 
the upper wards, by several large stone stair-cases. The 
wards are arranged in three stories above each other. This 
hospital is built in two parts, one on each side of the Seine, 
and they commumcate by a paved, covered and glazed bridge. 



NOTES OP TRAVEL. 55 

which commences from the back part of the great vestibule. 
The building on the opposite side of the river is new, and is 
also composed of three stories and a basement, which is a 
large and convenient dissecting room, for conducting the post- 
mortems of the establishment. The wards are all named 
after some Saint, and their names written over the doors ; the 
male wards after male saints, and the female wards after 
female. The cases are carefully classed into surgical and 
medical, and particular care is take by the "central com- 
mittee" to send as far as possible, all cases of a certain kind 
to the wards of those gentlemen who have paid peculiar 
attention to that class of disease. Thus, the diseases of the 
heart, those of the brain, of the lungs, &c., are placed under 
the care of those who have studied these diiferent classes of 
disease with special care. The wisdom and advantage of 
this arrangement, must at once be obvious to every one, as 
regards the patient, the prescriber and the student. The 
wards are spacious, well lighted and airy ; the windows are 
constructed to open in parts, for the purpose of regulating 
safely and conveniently the ventilation 5 the floors are entirely 
or in part of red tiles, prettily polished with wax, which gives 
them a neat and cleanly appearance. When they are con- 
structed in part only of tiles, these form the central passage, 
and the sides are parquetted or boarded. The bedsteads are 
of iron, arranged on each side of the wards, and the beds are 
com.posed of several mattrasses, with sufficient covering, and 
are very comfortable. They are all supplied with neat white 
curtains, suspended by a ring from the ceiling, which gives 
the patient an opportunity of entire privacy. This must add 
infinitely to the comfort of the patients, and I think is highly 
worthy of imitation. EaciyDed is also supplied with a small 
stand enclosing shelves, a oRiir, a night-cap and a large cloth 
capot or over-coat. The shelves in the stand are designed to 
hold urinals, spittoons, &c., so that these utensils may be ex- 
cluded from view. The wards are warmed by large tile 
ovens or stoves, in which wood is commonly burnt, and 
which produce an exceedingly pleasant and uniform tempera- 
ture. As all the French hospitals are attended by those 
excellent and devoted females, the sisters of charity, the 



54 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

spiritual as well as temporal necessities of the patients are 
most scrupulously attended to ; for each ward has an altar 
erected at one end, at which daily prayers are offered. These 
worthy females also charge themselves with supplying the 
convalescents with suitable books. Many of these sisters of 
charity are from the higher classes of society, and have 
enjoyed the advantages of education ; and this, with the long, 
conscientious and devoted attention to the sick, (for most of 
the superintendents have grown gray in this work of love) 
renders them superior nurses. It is easy to conceive how 
much this must lessen the responsibility of the conscientious 
prescriber, and even how important it is in a scientific point 
of view ; for the most entire confidence can be placed in the 
perfect integrity and fidelity of these ladies. For example, 
in courses of trials of any particular regimen or mode of treat- 
ment, the physician can most implichly rely on the full per- 
formance of his injunctions, without the most distant fear of 
deception or connivance with the patient ; a source of error, 
which under other circumstances is very common. It is 
gratifying to see with what deference these e:?cellent women 
are treated by the physicians and students,. and the tone of 
kindness and gratitude with which the appellations of ^-ma 
mere,^^ ''ma scEur,'' are applied to them by the patients. 
I could never cease to admire their disinterested and devoted 
benevolence. The Hotel Dieu formerly contained 800 beds; 
but a part of the buildings was lately demolished to 
make room for some improvement on the Quai, which 
has reduced the number to 600. There are annually from 
1 SOO to 2000 patients treated here. I introduced myself to 
M. Gueneau de Mussy, a young physician of fine promise, 
who received me with great i:^^kMiess, and invited me to 
attend his visit, which I did. 

After spending some time at the delightful Reading Rooms 
of Galignani to hear the news of the day, my friend M.De B. 
and myself paid a visit to the Hotel des Invalids, the retreat 
for the disabled soldiers of France, now rendered doubly inter- 
esting to strangers by the deposite in it of the remains of Na- 
poleon. This magnificent estabUshment was commenced by 
Louis XIV in 1 670,and finished ^1 706. It is approached by a 



r 



NOTES OP TRAVEL. 55 

grand esplanade, rising gently from the banks of the Seine to the 
iron gate of the outer court, measuring 1440 feet by 7S0, planted 
with fine trees and laid out in avenues, neatly gravelled and well 
kept. In the middle of this esplanade and toward the river, 
is a circular basin with a pedestal in its centre, surmounted 
by a bust of Lafayette. Immediately in front of the Hotel 
is a wide terrace, bounded hjsi fosse, laid out in gardens and 
surmounted by numerous pieces of bronze cannon, many of 
exquisite workmanship, the fruits of former victories. JNIost 
individuals from European countries, I presume, do not feel 
much flattered by this display. The facade of the building 
measures 612 feet in length, and is four stories high. The 
central projecting mass is in a fine style of architecture, beau- 
tifully ornamented with military trophies ; among which is 
a bas-relief of Louis XIV on horseback, with the following 
inscription on its pedestal : 

LUDOVICUS MAGNUS, 

militibus regali munificentia in perpetuem provi- 

dens, has ^des posuit. 

An. MDCLXXV. 

The main court, called the Cou?^ i?oy«/e, is entered through 
an elegant and spacious vestibule, adorned with columns, and 
measures 312 feet by 192, and is surrounded by four immense 
piles of buildings. These buildings are finished with arcades 
and wide galleries, designed as promenades in bad weather. 
Here on the ground-floor are the four grand refectories or 
dining rooms, each measuring 150 feet in length by 24 in 
breadth. The kitchens too, of this immense establishment are 
very curious, on account of the great scale on which the 
operations of cooking are conducted. The two large cop- 
pers are sufficiently capacious for each to dress 1200 pounds 
of meat at once ; and there is a curious spit which roasts 400 
pounds at a time. The bill of fare per day is 3000 pounds of 
meat, and 60 bushels of vegetables with dressings in propor- 
tion. The whole edifice, which covers a space of 16 acres 
(including the courts) is sufficiently large to accommodate 
7,000 persons, but it contains at present but 3,200. All sol- 
diers who are actually disabled by their wounds, or have served 
30 years, are entitled to a retreat in this asylum. They all 



56 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

wear the same uniform, and have no occupation but to mount 
guard about the building. They have the exchisive right of 
guarding the body of the king when he visits the Hotel. 
Notwithstanding the shocking manner in which many of 
those poor creatures are maimed and mutilated, they appear 
exceedingly comfortable and happy. 

In front of the building is a large space of ground divided 
by gravelled walks, and laid out in small gardens for the 
invalids. They are planted with great care, and are generally 
well-kept, having most commonly summer houses in trellis 
work, prettily covered with honey-suckles and other flower- 
ing vines, and furnished with seats. There are few that are 
not decorated with plaster statues or medallions of their 
renowned leader Napoleon. In one I observed a complete 
model of the passage of the Alps, constructed with great 
ingenuity. It was a great source of amusement to me to 
saunter along these walks and observe the various tastes and 
whims of these veterans in the cultivation of their little 
patches. All the invalids in the establishment receive a small 
monthly stipend according to their rank, from 2 francs to 30 
francs. 

There are two churches within the precincts of the 
estabhshment. The one called PEglise Anhienne, consists 
of a single nave 210 feet long by 72 wide, and 66 high, v.^th 
a bold cornice supported by Corinthian pilasters, in which are 
arranged a double row of flags, trophies of French arms. 
This church is beautifully lighted from the top, which pro- 
duces a fine eff'ect upon these flags. There were formerly 
near 3,000 of these martial trophies preserved here, but the 
greater part were ordered by Joseph Bonaparte to be burnt 
the night before the entrance of the allies into Paris. The 
high altar, a beautiful object, covered by a fine canopy sup- 
ported on Corinthian columns, is composed of wood and 
bronze gilt. It is place(J at the end of the old church at its 
contact with the new, and therefore serves for both. The 
second church, or Dome, is built at 'the Southern extremity 
of the old one, and is entirely detached from the rest of the 
edifice. It consists of a circular tower surmounted by a dome, 
resting on a square mass of building, 1 3S feet in length, which 



NOTES OF TRAVEL. 57 

forms the body of the church. Its interior is in chaste and 
beautiful style of architecture, and its magnificent curve is 
peculiarly agreeable to the beholder. It is divided into 
numerous compartments by projecting ribs richly gilt. It 
is throughout richly ornamented with painting and sculpture, 
and decorated with the fieur de lis and the initials of St. 
Louis. The entire pavement is formed of marble, inlaid with 
flowers and the arms of France. The exterior of this dome 
is one of the most imposing objects in the city. From its 
summit rises a lantern, surmounted by a spire and globe, with 
a cross, all richly gilt. Its total height to the top of the 
cross is 323 feet. In the four corners of the church 
are four chapels, 74 feet high by 36 in diameter, most 
richly painted and beautifully decorated. The one in the 
South-West corner is dedicated to St. Jerome, and con- 
tains the mortal remains of the " Great Man," Napoleon. 
I can assure you, that, although no admirer of the en- 
tire character of Napoleon, and by no means an advo- 
cate for the whole of his conduct, I approached his ashes 
v/ith a feeling of reverence exceeded only by my approach 
to the sacred sarcophagus of Washington. Whatever may 
be the opinion entertained of the motives of action of 
the mighty hero, the feeling is irresistible that you stand in 
the presence of a body once animated by the most gigantic 
intellect which the world has ever seen ! What a moment 
for reflection ! What a crowd of sensations, conjured up by 
tlie rapid flight of memory, now animates, now oppresses the 
mind, mitil it is fixed in deep, in sober reflection, insensible 
to the eager throng that is pressing forward to pay its 
homage at the same shrine ! After I had recovered from my 
reverie and descended from the steps, I was touched to see 
with what deep reverence the crowd approached the grating. 
Some, who appeared to be old soldiers, kneeled 'down and 
were moved to tears. Mothers brought their children, mad$ 
them kneel before the grating, saying '^voila le Grand 
Homme.^^ The chapel of St. Jerome, in itself very pretty, is 
decorated in the foUowing manner : The capitals and bases 
of tlie columns are gilt ; the shafts are draped in superb and 
rich stuff" of gold and silk ; — the spaces between tJie columns 



5s NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

are ornamented with hangings of violet-colored silk vel- 
vet, studded with gold bees and enriched with high em- 
broidery of gold ; — in the middle of the drapery are trophies 
of antique arms in steel of beautiful workmanship ; — on the 
disks of the bucklers are inscribed the names of Marengo, 
Wagram, Austerlitz and Jena. The hangings are crowned 
with a border of purple silk velvet, richly embroidered whh 
the initials of Napoleon, surrounded by laurels. Between 
the two columns directly opposite the entrance, is raised 
a platform to the height of about 5 feet, draped with rich 
silk velvet, ornamented with embroidery and mouldings 
of gold ; upon this is placed the ebony sarcophagus of the 
Emperor, covered by the same pall which was used for 
that purpose .at St. Helena at the moment of the ex- 
humation, and during the voyage. Upon the coffin is 
placed the imperial crown, the sword of the hero given 
to the King by General Bertrand, and the hat which Na- 
poleon wore at Eylau, and wdiich the celebrated Gros re- 
ceived from himself when he was charged with the painting 
of that great victory. The standards taken at the battle of 
Austerlitz overshadow the coffin. From the midst of these 
standards, of which France is so proud, rises an immense 
gold eagle with outspread wings; it measures about 12 feet 
between the wings, and soars majestically over the tomb, 
seeming to await the awakening of him who had rendered 
him so often victorious. The windows of the chapel are 
curtained v^^ith silk so colored as to transmit a soft and 
solemn hght ; — a large gas-lamp, suspended from the vault, 
is kept burning day and night ; candelabras of antique 
forms are aijanged in different positions, which are to 
be lit up on the anniversaries of those days upon which^ 
great victories have been achieved ; that part of the hang- 
ings behind the tomb is ornamented with a golden cross, 
embroidered arabesques and antique arms ; the chapel 
IS closed by a richly painted grating, to which one as- 
cends by seven wide marble steps, and the whole is 
guarded day and night by four of the invalids. 

I, this evening, went with my friend jNI. De B. to the 
^^ Academic Roy ale de Musique,'^ Qi Grand French Opera- 



NOTXS OF TfiAVFl. 50 

house, to hear the *• Freyschidz^^ of Weber. This fashiona- 
ble theatre is situated a short distance beyond the most 
fashionable Boulevard, the Boulevard des Italiens,''^ with 
which it communicates by a magnificent " Passaged lined on 
both sides with rich shops. The building itself is by no 
means extraordinary, as it has been temporarily erected to 
replace one which formerly existed in the Rue de Richelieu, 
but its interior decorations are in a magnificent style. It will 
contain about 2000 spectators. Its arrangements to obviate 
accidents from fire, are admirable ; — should the fire occur on 
tlie stage, which is the most likely place, this may in a moment 
be cut oif from the rest of the house by a fire-proof partition 
of iron. The doors are so numerous that the house may 
be cleared in about 10 minutes ; and large reservoirs of water 
placed under the roof, are kept in constant readiness. This 
imparts a degree of security in crowded houses which added 
very much to my comfort. As to the music, it was certainly 
very fine, but, as you know, I am no connoiseur, I cannot 
speak of it critically. The scenery was the most perfect and 
magnificent I have ever seen. The scene of the raising of 
the devil was awfully grand ; the very air was dense and 
lurid with sulphurous vapors, and filled with unearthl}^ forms. 
I returned to the Rue des petits Augustins at a late hour, 
but my sleep, after it did come, was interrupted by the fiitting 
of spectres and ghosts through my brain, by the carnage of 
the battle-field, the mangled limbs of the dying and the shouts 
of victory ; in which reveries the mighty conqueror of the 
world held no inconspicuous place. 

10.i;h. — Rose at 6 and went to the Hotel Dieu, where I 
followed M. Blandin through his wards, heard him deliver a 
lecture on the opening of large abscesses, and saw him per- 
form several small operations. As I was coming out of the 
hospital, I met M. Gueneau de Mussey, who pointed to two 
gentlemen before me, saying, ^'voila deux de vos compatriots.'''' 
I immediately stept up to them, as I had been in the habit of 
doing to all my countrymen, and introduced myself as such. . 
I have seldom been disappointed during the whole course of 
m}^ travels in the good sense of iVmericans when thus 
accosted by a countryman. In this case I was at once re- 



60 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

ceived with great kindness, and stepping up to the wall of 
the Quai we exchanged cards. They were Dr. P. from Phila- 
delphia, and Dr. B. from Kentucky. With the latter of these 
gentlemen my acquaintance subsequently matured into a 
delightful friendship. The unsuspicious greetings of fellow 
republicans, although personally entire strangers, in a foreign 
land, made my heart beat with joy and pride. 

After breakfast I paid my lirst visit to the Jardin des 
Plantes, (Garden of Plants) and revelled in its beauties and 
scientific riches, until my feehngs were wrought into extacies 
of pleasure. This is truly a microcosm where all nature has 
converged to a point. Here you may muse and labor, and 
learn and enjoy, for at least one lifetime, always finding 
something new, something interesting. As I consider this 
the most interesting spot on the face of the globe, I am sure 
you will excuse me for being somewhat tedious in my 
account of it. It is conmion to presume that our friends feel 
an interest in what interests ourselves most deeply, and I hope 
in this case that my presumption may not be unreasonable ; 
or if it should be, that your good nature will have patience 
with my weakness. 

Tlie Jardin des Plantes is situated in the Eastern part of 
the city, on the banks of the Seine, bounded on its two 
longest sides, as it should be, by the Rue de Buffon and the 
Rue de Cuvier. It is of an oblong shape, and contains about 
fifteen acres. Its front on the Quai St. Bernard, is enclosed 
by a lofty and beautiful iron grating, which forms a deep 
curve opposite the Po/it D\^usterlitz, forming with the 
Seine, the Place B'Austerlitz. Here is the chief gate of the 
Garden, with its lodges attached. The Place D'Austerlitz 
offers a convenient station for the carriages of visitors. 
There are three or four other gates, some of them even more 
frequented than the main one. Now, in order to give you 
an idea of this world in miniature, I must beg your com- 
plaisance to accompany me through all its plains, mountains 
and valleys, and we will make our observations as we go. 
Let us then return to the Place D'Austerlitz : and fortunately 
in this republican city, the style of our arrival, whether in a 
coach with liveried footmen, or in a calache, or in the more 



NOTES OF TRAVEL. 61 

primitive mode a pied, will neither add to or detract from 
cm' respectability. On entering the great gate, we have be- 
fore us at a single coup d^oeil, the whole of the ancient gar- 
den traversed by three magnificent avenues planted with 
lindens and Indian mulberries, bounded at the extreme end 
by the fa9ade of an extensive edifice, containing the Cabinet 
of Zoology. The four first squares are exclusively devoted 
to the cultivation of medicinal plants, not only for the ii> 
struction of the students of pharmacy, but also for making 
gratuitous distributions of them to the poor. The four next 
squares are called " du Fleuriste,^'' in which are cultivated 
the most beautiful perennial flowers proper for the decoration 
of the parterre. By the intelligent care of the gardeners, 
these squares offer, from early spring until the first frost, an 
uninterrupted succession of the most beautiful and rare flow- 
ers. The next is a curiously dug out square, as you observe, 
planted chiefly Avith shrubs. It was excavated. I have been 
told, by the order of Buffon, to a depth below the level of 
the Seine, and was filled by the infiltration of its waters. 
This was formerly the only basin in the garden, and was de- 
voted to the cultivation of aquatic plants. — Here is the ex- 
tensive mirsery of trees and shrubs destined to replenish the 
garden, and next to it is the Carre Chaptal, or square of 
Chaptal destined to the naturalization of foreign plants in the 
open air. In the midst of this square is a beautiful basin in 
the form of an immense bowl, filled with limpid water. Be- 
fore us you now observe better the cabinet of Zoology; the 
magnificent new building with its lofty portico on our left, 
contains the Library and the Cabinets of Mineralogy, Geolo- 
gy and Botany. On our right you observe the immense Hot 
Houses. We shall return here again after a Avhile. 

The beautiful avenue and the squares on our left, will not 
detain us long, as they are occupied as nurseries of trees and 
specimens of the cerealia, unless it be to take a cup of coffee 
at the caffe-resiaurant, which is so invitingly situated in the 
shade of that grove of locusts, mimosas and lindens. 

Having returned to our starting place at the Place D'Aus- 
terlitz, let us take the second avenue to the right, or that 
which separates the Jar din Symetriqiie from the Jar din 

6 



62. NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

Pasyager^ containing the menagerie. Tlie whole eighteen 
squares extending along on our left to the little Labyrinth 
are all devoted to the Ecoh de Botanique, or to practical 
botany. This part of the garden is open three times a week 
to the public. On our right you observe, first, a long parlc 
with its pretty little rustic structures. This contains the 
Abyssinian sheep, presented by Dr. Clot-Bey, and other spe- 
cies from Iceland. The next small park contains foreign 
goats. You there observe those excavations surrounded by 
parapet walls with a grating on top and old snagged trees 
rising from their middle, where so large a crowd of curious 
spectators is congregated \ — these are the Bear-pits. The 
first contains the white bears, the second the brown, and in 
the third you see the two cubs born in the menagerie, whose 
awkard and grotesque gambols afford so much amusement 
to the populace. It was in one of these pits that was lodged 
the famous bear MartuiySo celebrated for his size and beau- 
ty, and Vv4io strangled, by his powerful embrace, the unfor- 
tunate fellow who w^as uiduced to descend into his pit by 
night, attracted by a disk of metal which resembled a five 
franc piece. 

The beds you see in the excavated square, are all planted 
with foreign plants, which are attempted to be naturalized. 
Immediately before us is the Little Labyrinth, a point of 
considerable elevation, yet far inferior to the Great Labyrinth. 
Its shape is oblong, in the form of an ampitheatre laid out in 
sinuous avenues, planted with ever-greens mainly of the 
conifera3 family. On the top is a small esplanade, from 
which we shall enjoy a fine view. 

Directly opposite you see that beautiful regular elevation 
called the Great Labyrinth^ one of the most charming spots 
of this beautiful city. Let us ascend it. Here we will take 
a rest on this circular rustic bench, mider the thick shade of 
this enormous and venerable looking ever-green tree. This 
is the famous cedar of Lebanon, brought from England by 
the celebrated Bernard de Jussieu, in his hat, in 1734. Tliis 
cedar, akhough of magnificent height, would have been much 
taller had it not been for an imfortunatc discharge of fire- 
arms which injured its terminal bud when young. Between 



>;OTES OF TRAVEL. 63 

the cedar and the Kiosque or paviUon, toward the East, in a 
sweet, retired spot, you see that small enclosure, richly carpet- 
ed with long grass growing in all its wild luxuriance, from 
the centre of which rises a modest marble column, its simple 
base surrounded by a few rough stones, and without inscrip- 
tion. There repose the ashes of the celebrated Daubenton, 
without whose enthusiasm Buffon would probably never 
have been a natufalist. This, I am 'told, is the spot of his 
own selection, and he might almost be envied, if it were 
right to envy the dead. 

By a spiral walk, flanked by a pretty lattice fence, enclos- 
ing a thick growth of jasamines, one ascends to the Kiosque, 
or belvedere, built in the form of a small open temple sup- 
ported on beautiful small bronze columns, and surrounded by 
a circular seat and a balustrade of iron. From here you have 
a charming view of the whole garden and a part of the city. 
Below you, to the West is the beautiful terrace which over- 
looks the 7me (111 Jardiii du JRoi, and by which the cabinet 
of natural history commtmicates with the gate that opens on 
the Place de la Pitie, This labyrinth is planted with the 
family of resinous trees, of which it exhibits some magnifi- 
cent specimens. 

Descending to the North West, you observe a fine large 
reservoir facing the la Pitie gate. Those quaint old-fashioned 
houses on the left, nestling in the thick cool shade of trees, 
shrubs and vines, are the residences of several of the profes- 
sors. We here arrive at a vast court, communicating with 
the rue Cuvier by one of the most frequented gates. On the 
right you have the '' Bxirau de V administration^'^ where 
tickets are given to visitors. This building also contains the 
Taxidermic rooms. This plain but neat structure on our left, 
with those two magnificent African palm trees on each side 
of its entrance, is the grand amphitheatre which has so often 
resounded with the novel and learned discourses of De Jus- 
sieu, Bufibn and Cu-wier. Just behind the amphitheatre you 
see the modest retired dwelling of the prince of naturalists, 
Baron Cuvier, who died there in IS 32. In front is a large 
oval grassplot, filled from the hot-house with the splendid 
l^lants from New Holland, the Cape of Good Hope, Asia 



64 VOTES OF TEAVZL, 

Winor and Barbary. Here is the Serre Temperee, or 
temperate hot-house, with its higti, arched, and continuous? 
windows. It is verr capacious, measuring 200 feet in length 
by 24 in heighth. A fei^- paces further on is the Serr^ de 
Buffon^ or Bufi^on's hot-house, so called because constructed 
by his order in 178S. By tirrning a little to the right, we 
shall enter the great arenue leading iiito the Jardin Sym^t- 
rique, flanked on each side by those two magnificent square 
pavilions, entirely glazed, and of an immense height. These 
are destined to contain those plants which, from their size, 
could be no longer stored in the other hot-lw)uses. Let u? 
enter and revel in the beauty aiwi novelty of these luxuriant 
tropical forests ! 

We have now seen all that the world afl'ords of what is 
beautiful, rare and useful in vegetation, and after a giass of 
^- eau succree'' at the cafle, we will take a stroll through that 
part of the garden which you see so crowded with visitors, 
and which contains the menagerie. For this purpose we 
will go back to our first starting place, the Porte I>- Austeriiiz. 

The park on our right contains specimens of Aigerine sheep, 
and that on our left in its first division, a charming little ani- 
mal of the deer kind from Bengal, called an axis, and in it? 
second division a stag from Java. Heye we are in front of 
the twenty dens of the wild beasts, kept in the most perfect 
order, guarded by strong iron bars, and furnished with a bal- 
ustrade to prevent the too near approach of the curious. 
Here are many labels exhibitmg the name of the Prince de 
Joinville as donor. At the two sides oi these dens are two 
pavilions, containing the small carnivorous animals, such as 
foxes, jackals, otters, cats, &g. Behind this are the dog-ken- 
nels, m which are foimd dogs from all countries. Now let 
us turn a little to the left, where you see that curious motley 
crowd of children and adults, of soldiers and civilians, of high 
and low, all with their features relaxed into the widest grin 
of the most unrestrained amusement. Jt is the Palais d- ete 
des Smges, the summer Palace of the monkeys. It consists 
of a large rotundo of beautiful wire-work paved with asphalte, 
with various ropes stretched across it, to serve as slack-ropfes 
for the jolly inmates. At the posterior part of tlii« draivins:' 



T^OTES OF TKAVEI.. 65 

wn&m, are tlieii private apartments, where they frequently 
^retire to repose Avhen fatigued by the arduous entertainments 
of the saloon. If the most inveterate hypochendriac does 
not relax his care-worn features and -shake his diaphrgam 
while contem.plaling the 'Odd pranks of this grotesque com- 
-pany, his case must te desperate. After passing a number of 
parks both to our right and left, with their romantically rus- 
tic structures, thatched with straw, and containing many beau- 
tiful specimens of deer from all paf ts of the world, including 
■our own broAvn species, and after having glanced at apart of 
the garden newly laid out toward the Qai de la Tournelle, 
we shall arrive at the long range of cages containing the 
■birds of prey. The first division, containing the condor, the 
-adjutant, ^Scc, by their droll and grotesque gravity presents 
die most amusinfi: burlesaue on the human species ima2:ina- 
ble. With ail their high claims to nobleness and assumed 
air of superiority, they, like their more aspiring fraternity of 
bipeds, are addicted to the most grovelling propensities and 
iiiltliy practices. The next divison eontains the parrots, par- 
oquets and kekatoos, birds of the most splendid plumage, but 
who render themseh/es disagreeable by their liar&h and un- 
meaning garrulity, and whose lack-lustre eyes roll in stupid- 
ity; thus strongly resembling those pretty creat^tres,' the lions 
•of the Boulevards, the cocknies of Regent street, and the 
soap-locks of Chesnut street and Broadway. The last divis- 
ion contains a large collection of nocturnaf birds of prey, 
whose solemn gravity has been i-ega.rded as the emblem of 
assumed wisdom from the earliest times» 

In this park on our left you^see the Muntjac stag of Mali- 
bar, and an antelope from the same country, presented by 
jNI. Dussumier, whose libea'aiity has been so often exercised 
dn behalf of this gi'and national institution. Instead of pro- 
ceeding along this Avenue, let us turn shortly to our right, 
and we shall come to tlie faisanderit^ which is a beauti- 
ful structure, also @f wire-work, and contains an immense 
number of specimens of the gallinaceous family. It also con- 
tains a niimber of small birds, among which no doubt you 
will be delighted to see our own little robin red-breast ; — it 
is qmiQ like meeting with -a familiar friend. Observe in the 



66 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

opposite park the beautiful little animal called the danwiiom 
the Cape of Good Hope. It is a perfect little horse in minia- 
ture, with a prettily striped coat. In the next division of 
this park is another small animal, belonging to the genus 
equus, which lives in the steppes of Asia. It travels with 
great rapidity, and is said to be able to make sixty leagues 
without drinking. We will now make the tour of this large 
park on our right. Here see the beautiful gazelle from Al- 
giers, with its light form and graceful movements, its pretty 
smooth skin and large soft black eyes so expressive of gen- 
tleness. No wonder that the Arab has made it the standard 
of comparison for all that is graceful, charming and pretty. 
In the next division you see that most singular animal be- 
longing to the antelope family, called the chickara, being pro- 
vided with four immense horns. Here is that large bird the 
casked casoar, from the Indian Archipelago, whose size is al- 
most that of the ostrich. The singular bony protuberance 
on its head, from which it derives its name, is most curious. 
Its feathers of a brown color resemble coarse fiat hair ; the 
wing feathers are replaced by five large barrels without barbs ; 
its legs and feet are of immense size and strength, for it is by 
these that it defends itself against its enemies. In this same 
enclosure you also see the Numidian cranes, teal, ducks, &.c.^ 
from all parts of the world, and of the most varied and beau- 
tiful plumage. Opposite to you, you see a great variety of 
those awkward creatures, the tortoises. 

Now let us turn down in this direction to that tasty round 
building, surrounded by a high and very strong palisade 
This is called the great rotundt), and contains the large mam- 
miferous animals. Here are found the elephants, dromeda- 
ries, tapirs, buffaloes, a hemione with its young, and giraffe, 
the latter of which was a present from Mehemet Ah to 
Charles X. 

Turning back again through this labyrinth of wonders, we 
shall leave on our left the park containing the goats and the 
axes, and proceed to that which encloses the water-birds, hav- 
ing a large pond in its middle. Here you see great numbers 
of those odd grave-looking birds the herons, flamingos and 
other waders, a very pretty small species of goose, called 



-JfOTES OP TRAVEL. 67 

tadorne, which lodges in burrows, like the hare. Observe 
on your right, in company with the gazelles, and which it 
much resembles, the beautiful and agile chamois of the Alps. 
This animal, as you know, has the faculty of running with 
incredible celerity over the most rugged parts of the high 
alpine regions, and of bounding with the most perfect safety 
and ease from precipice to precipice, at the distance of ao or 
30 feet. There are still a number of animals that we have 
not seen, but you must be fatigued, and we will close our ob- 
servations in this part of the garden. Nor will I request you 
to see the extensive collection of living serpents, knowing 
your great antipathy to these creatures: For any one else 
but yourself, it Avould be curious to see the brood of young 
rattle-snakes which were hatched last summer in the garden, 
when the remarkable fact v/as observed that the old one set 
on her eggs. 

Now we will go to the '^ Bureau de V AdiJiimstration,'*' 
and present our passports as strangers, AVhere Ave shall re- 
ceive tickets of admission to the different cabinets. These 
tickets will admit us on special days at particular hours that 
are devoted exclusively to the visits of strangers. Yuu will 
not fail to admire with me the great liberality of the French 
towards ^foreigners who visit their great capital. All other 
nations, as far as I know, extend their civilities first to their 
own citizens and then to strangers, or perhaps even throw 
various impediments and onerous fees in the way of foreign- 
ers. But the French, with their proverbial politeness and 
liberality, reverse the rule^ and reason thus : — the native is at 
less expense and more at his ease in his own capital than the 
stranger, whose expenses are in many respects greater, and 
whose time is too precious in Paris not to have every facility 
of seeing and learning extended to him ; and I have actual- 
ly known Frenchmen to borrow the passports of foreigners 
in order to enjoy the strangers^ privileges ! 

Let us first then, visit the cabinet of Natural History, the 
largest and best arranged in the world, contained in the im- 
mense building before us. You observe with what spirit and 
attention to natural attitude all the animals are mounted, and 
.how perfectly they are preserved in the glass cases hermeti- 

6,^ 



CS yOTES OF TRAVEL. 

cally sealed. All you see are neatly labelled with their 
names, country, the names of the authors by whom describ- 
ed, and arranged under their respective genera, orders, fam- 
ilies and classes. After having viewed the whole of the ex- 
isting species, we will proceed to the next immense saloon, 
which contains the fossil animals, or the extinct species, ar- 
ranged with the same scrupulous regard to scientific classifi- 
cation. A full consideration of these most singular forms 
would require years of study ! This is the ""inonumcntum 
sere perennius^^ of the celebrated Baron Cuvier. 

This building, forming the three sides of a court, is the 
far-famed Cabinet of Comparative Anatom}^. Among the 
skeletons is found one of an Italian with an additional lum- 
bar vertebra, and also that of the celebrated dwarf Bebe^ 
who belonged to Stanislaus, king of Prussia ; and must have 
stood about 22 inches in his shoes. There is a wax figure of 
him in the Anomatical cabinet of the School of ^Medicine, 
dressed in a suit of his own clothes. These consist, accor- 
ding to the fashion of his day (for he was no small dandy) 
of plush breeches with buckles, clocked stockings and buck- 
led shoes, a low collared wide skirted coat, long embroidered 
vest, a worked scarf, and powdered wig. Here is also the 
very curious skeleton of Ritta-Christina,^v\\o had one body 
with two chests, two heads and two minds. She was born 
at Sassari in Sardinia, in 1829, and died at Paris, aged 8 
months. Each head was separately baptized under the 
names of Ritta and Christina. Ritta, the right head was 
melancholy, sad and sickly ; — Christina, the left head was 
gay, smiling and in high health. 'Ritta became dangerously 
ill, during which time Christina seemed not to sufier the least 
inconvenience, and even played cheerfully in the lap of her 
mother while her sister was suffering in the last agonies of 
death. When the former drew her last breath, the latter ut- 
tered a shriek, sunk upon her mother's breast and expired 
suddenly. In another apartment is the great collection of 
sculls of the celebrated Dr. Gall, the founder of phrenology. 
In the immense edifice, with its beautiful classic portico, on 
tlie opposite side of the Garden, are contained the Cabinets 
of Geology, of Mineralogy, of Botany, and the Library, the 



NOTfeS OF TRAVEL. 69 

richest in scientific works of any in existence. It also con- 
tains a splendid series of botanical paintings, on more than 
five thousand sheets of large vellum neatly arranged in port- 
folios. Our tickets, as you see, give us free ingress to all 
tliese, but your fatigue will not permit us to visit them now. 
You may well express your surprise at the munificence of the 
government in keeping up this grand establishment at an 
immense expense ; for there are 47 professors and officers 
supported at the garden alone, besides the travelling natural- 
ists who are employed in every country on the face of the 
globe. How pleasant it is to see the immense crowds of 
high and low who constantly throng these beautiful avenues 
in the pursuit of health and intellectual improvement! What 
ail influence this must exert physically and morally, on the 
population of this densely crowded capital ! And every 
Frenchman, even to the lowest citizen, seems as proud of it 
as if it were his own individual property. 

How remarkable it is, that notwithstanding the free access 
af all classes, the most scrupulous care is taken not to deface 
or destroy anything ; — not a leaf is disturbed, nor a grass- 
plot trod upon, even by the children ! 

I must now beg you to take a cabriolet, and go to the 
Tailleries gardens, where I will meet you on the South ter- 
race, (for we will dine to-day at the Palais Royal) while I 
will deliver my letter from Dr G. to Prof, de J. who resides 
in the garden, as do nearly all the professors. jNIons. de J. is 
a tall, plain, dark-complexioned gentleman, of about 40 years 
of age, having the appearance of a hard student. He re- 
ceived me with great kindness, enquired very particularly af- 
ter his friend Dr. G. and oflTered me every facility in his pow- 
er to advance my inquiries into his particular branch. 

11th.— Rose at 6, and went to the hospital La Charite, in 
the 7'ue Jacob. The visits at all the hospitals are made at an 
early hour, in winter often before it is sufficiently light to see 
without candles. The site of this hospital, although in the 
densely built part of the city, is much better, as it is much 
higher, than that of the Hotel Dieu. It encloses a number 
of courts which are laid out in pretty gardens, forming de- 
hghtful promenades for the convalescents. Its internal 



70 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

arrangements are very convenient, and it contains two am- 
phitheatres for lectures and pathological investigations. There 
are 500 beds in this establishmentj and the average admis- 
sion of patients is 8,157 per annum. Being naturally very 
desirous of seeing a man with whose name I was familiar 
from my earliest connection with the profession, I at once 
enquired for the wards of Prof. Velpeau, and in a few mo- 
ments I stood in the presence of the most celebrated surgeon 
now living. I found him a middle sized, gentlemanly look- 
ing man, about 60 years of age, with a very pleasant, ani- 
mated countenance. He was standing in the middle of his 
long ward, dressed in his long white apron, (for all the French 
surgeons and physicians wear aprons during their hospital 
visits) surrounded by a group of students, calling the roll of 
his interns, and regularly pricking the names of the ab- 
sentees with a pin. I was delighted to see the kindness and 
benevolence with which he treated his patients, all of whose 
faces wore a smile of pleasure as they saw him approach. 
He had some funny remark, some little pleasantry for all of 
them. The first patient in the ward was a young female, 
w^ho had her distaff lying by her side ; he very drolly picked 
it up, stuck it into his apron string, and began to spin a great 
cable of thread, to the no small amusement of his patient 
and the students. After breakfast I called on Mr. R. profes- 
sor of Botany in the School of Medicine, at his delightful 
residence in the 2:arden of the Luxembourg Palace, to whom 
I had a letter and a small packet, from my friend Prof. G. of 
New York. I found him one of the most agreeable gentle- 
men I have ever had the pleasure of knowing. I next called 
on my very polite and excellent friend Dr. P. of Philadelphia, 
where I found three other young countrymen, also physicians. 
They were kind enough to accompany me to see the Clastique 
Models of Dr. Auzoux, which excited my deepest interest and 
greatest astonishment. They are anatomical models, made of 
papier mache, exhibiting the structure of the whole human 
frame with the most surprising faithfulness and accuracy, not 
merely as regards the relative poshion of parts, but also 
as regards the natural colour. Every part of the model is 
capable of being taken apart, so as to show the internal 



NOTES OF TRAVEL. 71 

arrangement of the whole structure, even to the minutiae. It 
is in fact an exact copy of nature. Every one will at once 
comprehend the importance of this invention to the student 
of anatomy ; and it comprehends among its other advantages 
this peculiar one, that the student is taught the science not 
analytically only, but also, synthetically. This invention is 
probably, in part at least, due to Napoleon, who had offered 
a large reward for the construction of such a model. 

I now availed myself of the benefit of the ticket kindly 
loaned me by Gen. Cass, for visiting the Chamber of Peers, 
They hold their sessions in the beautiful old palace of the 
Luxembourg. The apartment is semicircular in its form, and 
very plain in its appearance, not nearly so imposing as the 
Senate Chamber at Washington. The Peers are dressed in 
rich uniforms decorated with their orders, and as a body, are 
well calculated to inspire respect. As there was no business 
of importance before the house, I had but little opportunity of 
judging of the manner of their proceedings. 

12th. — My friend Dr. P. of Philadelphia, called on me 
this morning, and accompanied me to the Hopital Neckar. 
This is one of the smallest hospitals of the city, containing 
at present 140 beds only, but an addition is being built which 
s\fi\\ afford room for 260 more. The average admissions per 
annum are 2,332. The chief interest at this hospital is th^ 
ward of the celebrated surgeon Civiale, whose ingenious op- 
erations for the stone have given him such merited fame. 
Never has the sight of any man gratified me so much as that 
of Dr. Civiale ; never have I experienced stronger feelings of 
respect and admiration for the genius of any one than I did 
for the man whose ingenuity has disarmed the most frightful 
operation for one of the most painful disorders in surgery of 
3.11 its terrors and its pains ! — Civiale has taught surgeons to 
free their patients of this horrible malady without an incision, 
or the loss of a drop of blood ! — He is a middle-sized well- 
proportioned gentleman, with a high and beautifully rounded 
forehead, long face, well-proportioned nose, large mouth, and 
large black eyes, which give his expression a cast of serious- 
ness bordering on melancholy. His voice is melodious, and 
his manner extremely bland and attractive, with great urbanity 



72 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

and kindness towards his patients. He appears much young- 
er than I had fancied him. The consummate skill and deli- 
cacy of his operations strike one with astonishment, and his 
adroitness has been well expressed by a Professor of our 
own country, by saying that **'his instruments seem to glide 
into their places by some inherent intelligence, rather tlian to 
be put there by the hand of the surgeon.'^ 

Set out at 10 A. M. for Versailles, 15 miles, where I ar- 
rived in 45 minutes by rail-road. After making a breakfast 
on " caffe an /ait'' and bread and butter, always of the most 
delicious kind in this country, I went to the palace, and prom- 
enaded its magnificent halls and galleries until 5 o'clock, 
when I went to dine with Gen. Cass at his country residence, 
situated in a beautiful garden, which communicates by a gate 
with the grand park of the Palace. Here I was introduced 
to his family and some half dozen strangers, most of them 
Americans. Dinner consisted of five or six courses and a 
considerable variety of wines, served a la Francaise, by ser- 
vants in short clothes and liveries, bearing the American Ea- 
gle on their collars. After dinner the carriage was ordered 
for a drive in the park, to listen to the Royal Military Band 
which plays there every evening. I returned to the city in 
the evenmg, leaving my friend >I. de B. at Versailles for tl:ke 
night. 

As I felt lonesome without my friend, I took another stroll 
to the Place de la Concorde, which I can never tire in visit- 
ing. It is in my view the most magnificent place of the kind 
on the face of the globe. It is an immense square, situated 
between the garden of the Tuilleries, the Champs Elysees, 
the Rue de Rivoli and the Seine, laid out in carriage ways, 
between which are wide parades paved with asphalte, and 
the whole surrounded by a deep fosse. In the centre, on a 
large oval plateau, is erected the obelisk of Luxor, which 
stood before the great temple of Thebes in Egypt, and was 
presented to the French by Mohamed Ali. It is the smallest 
of those two curious specimens of Egyptian art, erected there 
by the great Sesostris 1550 years before Christ. It is a single 
block of beaiuiful red Syenite, covered on all its sides with 
three rows of vertical hieroglyphics, measuring 72 feet 3 



NOTES OF TEAVEL. 7^ 

inches in length, 7 feet 6 inches in width at the base, and 5 
feet 4 inches at the top. It weighs 500,000 pounds. The 
difficulty and expense of its transportation from Luxor, caus- 
ed it to be delayed until 1830^ when a vessel was built for 
that express purpose at Toulon, and M. Ltbos was charged 
witii the superintendence of the task. The whole shaft had 
to be c-ased in wood, to prevent injury. Its removal from 
Luxor to the Nile, employed the labour of SOO Arabs for the 
space of three months, x^fter being embarked on board of 
the vessel, which it was necessary to saw through vertically 
in order to receive it, it descended the Nile to the bar below 
Rosetta, where it was passed with the greatest difficulty. It 
arrived in Paris in 1833, but was not set up before 1836^ 
owing to the extent and immensity of the necessary prepa- 
rations and machinery for this purpose ; when it was eleva- 
ted in presence of the King 'and royal family, and 150,000 
spectators. The plinth on which it stands, is a single block 
of grey granite, weighing 240,000 lbs. and measuring 15 feet 
by 9 feet square at the bottom, and 8 at the top. On its sides 
are engraved in gold, representations of the machine that 
was necessary to transport and elevate it. It would be very 
c^irious, had the Egyptians left similar drawings. The pedes- 
tal is formed also^of immense granite blocks, and measures^ 
witli tlie plinth, 27 feet, making the whole height 99 feet 3 
inches. The cost of removing the obelisk from Thebes and 
of erecting it where it now stands, is said to have been two 
millions of francs, equal to four hundred thousand dollars. 

On each side of this remarkable relic of ancient art, on the 
same plateau, are two magnificent fountains, one dedicated 
to Maritime, and the other to Fluvial navigation. They con- 
sist each of a circular basin, 50 feet in diameter, and two 
smaller ones above each other, 20 and 12 feet in diameter 
respectively. They are formed of stone encrusted with mar- 
ble, and the upper ones are supported by colossal figures in 
iron, made to represent bronze, holding spouting dolphins 
richly gilt. These pour forth incessant torrents of living 
waters, whose spray falls in cooling and refreshing showers. 

On the parapets of the fosses are placed twenty beautiful 
rostral columns in bronze gilt, bearing lamps, and surmounted 



74 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

by gilded globes. Along the internal edges of the parades 
are forty iron gilt lamp-posts, half of which are furnished 
with cocks at their bases for w^atering the place. On the S 
angles of the fosses, are placed as many pretty pavilions en- 
crusted with marble, surmounted by allegorical colossal fig- 
ures, representing the chief provincial cities of France, by 
some of the most celebrated French sculptors. 

JMagnificent as this place is in itself, this magnificence is 
vastly enhanced by the splendid objects by which it is sur- 
rounded. As you stand in its centre at the foot of the obe- 
lisk with your face turned to the West, the Champs Elysees, 
in all their dehghtful freshness, are spread out before you, 
and far in the regularly ascending vista of the great central 
avenue, at the distance of nearly two miles, is that grand ob- 
ject of architectural skill, the ^drch de Triomphe. On your 
right is the beautiful rue de Rivoli, flanked with its elevated 
arcades, on which front those two sumptuous structures whose 
architecture even vies with that of the Louvre, the Hotel of 
the ^Minister of jNIarine, and the Garde Meuhle de la Coronne. 
Between these two buildings, runs the beautiful wide street, 
the Rue Royale, ascending gently to the foot of the splendid 
church of the Madeline, whose wide steps, Corinthian colon- 
ade and sculptured front, never cease to excite the most viv- 
id emotions of delight. On your left, dance in conscious 
pride the sparkling waters of the Seine, whose parapeted bed 
is spanned by the beautiful Pont Royale. At the end of this, 
and in full view, is the magnificent Palais Bourbon, where 
the chamber of Deputies holds its sessions. In the distance, 
on the same side, rises in imposing grandeur the majestic cu- 
pola of the Invalids. If you now turn your face to the East, 
the view will not be less imposing. The splendid garden of 
the Tuileries, with its avenues planted with stately trees, its 
chaste and beautiful sculpture, its magnificent basins and 
jets d'eau, its terraces, flower-pots and shrubery, delight the 
ravished sight with their sumptuousness. The long line of 
the venerable looking old palace, although in itself an object 
of but little beauty, contrasts well by its sombre stateliness 
with the gaiety of the garden. When the wide gates of the 
palace are open, which is generally the case during the fine 



KOTES OP TRAVEL. 75 

season, the view is extended through it, under the Triumphal 
Arch, over the Place du Carousel and is only terminated by 
the magnificent facade of the Louvre. Grand as is the aspect 
of the Place de la Concarde by day-light, its splendour is in- 
finitely heightened when it, and the gardens and Champs 
Eiysees float in the floods of light that are poured forth from 
the thousands of gas-lights at night ! 

1 3th. — After taking a citp of coifee with our old [former — 
I mean) land-lady of the Hotel Bergere, who understands the 
preparation of this nectareous fluid better than any one I 
have ever met with, (perhaps her kind manner and pretty 
French hsp may add considerably to its zest,) I called on ]\Ir. 
S. at the Hotel Meurice, where I found several other Ameri- 
cans. This being Sunday, we went together to the residence 
of our countryman Col. Thorn, to attend worship in his pri- 
vate chapel, which we found very neatly arranged, carpeted 
With Brussels carpet, and containing an organ. The sermon 
was preached by an Englishman, v/ho omitted the prayers 
for the Queen. The only difterence observable in Paris be- 
tween Sunday and any other day of the week, is that it is 
made a day of more extensive and varied amusement, and 
that there is less labour performed. All the retail shops are 
open, and all artisans continue their work as usual ; at least 
in the forenoon. The most attractive pieces at the theatres, 
and the best operas, are reserved for Sunday evening. Ail 
great reviews and fetes take place on this day, and most of 
the galleries of paintings and museums of curiosities are also 
open. In the evening I called on jNlr. M. of Philadelphia, 
who is a thorough Republican, and spent a delightful hour 
with him and his amiable young wife. 

14th. — Rose at an early hour, and went to the Hospital 
La Pitie. This is one of the oldest hospitals in the city. It 
is situated in an airy, elevated situation, opposite the Garden 
of Plants, and its general arrangements are similar to those 
of the other institutions of this kind in Paris. It contains 
600 beds, and the average admissions are 8,972 patients per 
annum. The La Pitie is the theatre of action of the cel- 
ebrated and eccentric M. Lisfranc. He is a tall, coarse, awk- 
ward-looking man, with a considerable stoop in his shoulders.. 



16 XOTES or TRAVEL. 

and an immense nose ; dressed in a pair of wide pantaloons* 
and a well worn dangling brown frock-coat, a vest whose 
colour is scarcely discernable through the thick coat of snutf 
with which it is covered, and a small greasy cap on his head. 
Among the first words I heard him utter were some horrible 
imprecations upon his interns for some neglect of duty, and 
such vollies of abuse as would have been borne by the stu- 
dents of Lisfranc alone. His attempt at playing with the 
children in his v/ard, tickling them for example, to which he 
seemed to have a peculiar propensity, was truly ludicrous. 
After the visit I followed him into the amphitheatre to hear 
his lecture, which was made up in great part of the most 
powerful invective against his rival M. Velpeau of La Char- 
ite, uttered at the top of his stentorian voice, with his eyes 
glaring and fixed in a kind of frenzy, whilst he kept np a 
constant sawing of the air with his right hand. I presumed 
tliat something peculiarly exciting had occurred to irritate 
him, but I had occasion to hear him lecture frequently after 
this, a*hd it was seldom that the practice and chief surgeon 
of La Charite escaped his abusive animadversions. 

After dinner I took a long stroll along the Boulevards, and 
terminated my walk at the site formerly occupied by that 
abominable state prison the Bastile, and which is now called 
the Place de la Bastile. It was here that Napoleon intended 
to erect a magnificent fountain, in the form of a bronze ele- 
phant, the beautiful model of which in plaster is still to be 
seen here. I regretted much to see this stupendous piece of 
art exposed to the weather, which must in a feiv years total- 
ly destroy it. The height of the model, including the tower 
supported by the animal is 12 feet — its legs measure six feet 
in diameter, in one of which was to be placed the stair-case 
leading to the tower. The water was designed to issue from 
the proboscis of this colossal monument, and the body it is 
said, was to have been occupied as a saloon for ices and re- 
freshments. The Place de la Bastile is at present occupied 
by a splendid bronze column of the Doric order, 155 feet in 
}ieight, and 11 feet in diameter, surmounted by the Genius 
of France, in the form of the ancient flying INIercury, 15 feet 
in height. This magnijicent column commemorates, in large 



NOTES OF TRAVEL. 77 

gilt letters, the names of persons who fell at the taking of the 
Bastile on the one half, and on the other the names of those 
who fell during the three days of July, 1830; and hence it 
bears the name of Cologne de Juillet. 

15th. — Paid another visit to the Hotel Dieu, to attend the 
^'■clinique^^ of M. Roux, one of the most distinguished sur- 
geons of this capital. He is an aged, gentlemanly looking 
man, of small stature and fine regular features. He is suf- 
fering from ill health, which renders him excessively irritable. 
After breakfast, (for we don't breakfast here till eleven 
o'clock) I went to the Ecole de Medicine, and heard D7\ 
Cazanave, a gentleman well known at home, deliver a lecture 
on diseases of the skin. The Anatomical Museum, which 
occupies one part of the School of Medicine, is the most rich 
and extensive establishment of its kind in the world. Be- 
sides the great variety of beautiful anatomical preparations 
and casts, it contains a set of specimens of the Materia Medi- 
ca, and a complete series of surgical instruments from the 
earliest times to the present epoch, chronologically arranged 
in each department of operations. If, then, you wish to study 
the successive improvements in the instruments of a given 
operation, you have only to select the particular case in 
which they are deposited, and you have at one glance 
an exhibition of ^ the whole histor^^ There is no part in 
this Museum^ that occupied more of my time, or that inter- 
ested me more than this, for it exhibits an accurate history 
of practical surgery, often from its first dawn. I delivered 
my letter from Prof. G. to D7\ Richard, Professor of Botany 
in the School of Medicine, who has a delightful residence in 
the Botanical Garden belonging to the medical school, situa- 
ted within the Jardin de Luxeviboitrg. I found him a ver)^ 
pleasant gentleman, who has travelled and knows exactly 
the wants of a traveller. Having been told that I was going 
to visit Italy, he politely offered me letters to his scientific 
friends in that country. He was delighted to hear directly 
from his friends Drs. G. and T. and always showed me the 
greatest kindness. I now went to the Place du Carousel, 
the great meeting place of all the omnibuses, and took a seat 
for the far famed Cemetery, Pere La Chaise. In passing 



78 KOTES OF TRAVEL. 

along, r asked some questions of the conductor, which he 
poUtely answered, and then remarked j **you are an EngUsh-- 
man;" not mueh reUshing the idea of passing for Vi^'rasbif,^' 
I repUed somewhat decidedly, "no, !• am on Alnerican." 
The man, looking at me with a mingled expression of surprise 
and doubt, observed, '-mais votis efes- bkinc/^ (but you are 
white.) The remark was so- utterly unexpected to me, that 
in replying coTWTwe vou^ voyez, I burst out in an open laugh 
right in the poor fellow^s face. Pere La Chaise is beautiful- 
ly situated on an eminence, just beyond the exterior Bouk- 
vards, and from its chapel, which is the highest part, you 
have the most extended and magnificent view ofthis gay city, 
extending on the east as far as Vincennes, It contains at pre- 
sent about 100 acres, the whole enclosed by a stone wall. 
It is tastefully laid out in gravel walks, and planted with an 
infinite variety of beautiful trees, shrubs and vines. Many 
of the tombs are truly magnificent, rich in all that art can de- 
vise, to beautify and embellish. The whole number of tomb? 
in this sumptuous necrapolis^ is said to exceed 13,000; and 
their aggregate cost is estimated at 100 millions of francs, or 
20 millions of dollars. iVmong the tombs^ which interested 
me, more on account of the distinguished personages they 
cover, than on account of their beauty, are the following: 
that oi Abelard and Heloise, which is thickly strewed with 
crowns of life-everlasting, by the visitors ; the tomb of Four- 
croy, of Hauy, of Dupuytrtn^ of Valentin Hauy^ the in- 
ventor of books for the blind, of the Ahhe Sicardy of David, 
the painter, &c. &c. 

This evening, M. De B; and myself visited the Cirque 
National, a beautiful new edifice in the Champs Elysecs.. 
The amusements were conducted with great order, but the 
riding I think was far inferior to our own. 

16th. — Went to the Hotel Dieu, and attended the ^-serrice^' 
o(Ml Bj'ediei, the anatomist ; who has a small surgical ward 
here. He is a short port^ly gentleman, of about QS, with a 
A'cry fine head. He appears somewhat testy and irritable, 
and has but a small class to follow him. I next w-ent to the 
Garden of Plants, and delivered my note of introduction to 
Prof. 'Dscaimej who occupies one of those delightful resi- 



NOTES or TRAVEL. 79 

dences in the Garden. JHe is a small, active, bustling gen- 
tleman, of great simplicity of manners and apparent kindness 
of heart; but speaks a little too rapidly to be well understood 
hj a foreigner. He very kindly and politely offered me eve- 
ry aid in his power for seeing all that is to be seen in this 
wonderful capital. After enjoying the delights of this terres- 
trial paradise, the Garden of Plants, for an hour or two, I 
took a long random stroll through the city, giving free scope 
to the bent of my curiosity, and pursuing whatever course 
seemed to ofter the best chance for its gratification. I have 
always found a great pleasure in traversing a strange city in 
this unrestrained manner ; it seems so much like a pleasant 
dream. 

The support of equipages must cost dear in this city, as 
you observe but few carriages with more than one horse. 
It seemed odd to me to see a driver in livery stuck on the 
box of these one-horse vehicles, which is not at all uncom- 
mon here. Another object that strikes a stranger forcibly 
is, the frequency of occurrence of the red riband in the 
button-hole of the left coat-breast, the bad^e of the Cross of 
Honour. It appears to be indiscriminately bestowed on mili- 
tary men and on civilians. 

17th. — I paid a 'visit thismorningto that delightful institu-- 
tion, the Hopital des Erifans Ma lades ; designed as its name 
imports, for the treatment of the diseases of children. If is 
situated in a fine airy position in the faubourg St. Gerinain, 
and encloses large courts laid out in pretty gardens, with fine 
avenues of trees, shady walks and grass-plots. It contains 
480 beds, and its average annual admissions are 3,631 ; child- 
ren are admitted from the age of 2 years to that of 15. M. 
Guersent, a gentleman of great mildness and kindness of 
manner, is the physician. I was delighted with his mode 
of treating his numerous little patients. After my visit to the 
hospital, I reparied to the School of Medicine, and heard a 
charming lecture on Botany from my friend Dr. Richard. 
His manner in the lecture-room is exeedingly pleasing ; hi^- 
voice is sonorous and melodious, and his enunciation unusu- 
ally distinct. He is among the most popular lecturers of this^^ 
mty, and attracts crowded audiences. 



so NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

18th. — Rose at an early hour, and threaded my way 
through the narrow, crooked and dirty streets of the faubourg 
St. Jacques, to the Hopital des Veneriens, or du Midi, to 
see and hear the celebrated Ricord. The edifice of this hos- 
pital is old and irregular, and situated in a crowded part of 
the city. It contains 250 beds, and its admissions are 3,376. 
M. Ricord, who is an American by birth, (upon which, I 
am told, he prides himself very considerably) is a middle 
sized man, about 38 years of age, with strongly marked 
coarse features, but playful and agreeable manners. After 
his visit, he repaired to one of the courts of the hospital, and 
takhig a seat on a bench under the thick shade of some beau- 
tiful elms, lie delivered to a large crowd of pupils who sur- 
rounded him, a most eloquent and pertinent lecture on a deli- 
cate operation in that branch of surgery to which he devotes 
himself; interspersed with many witticisms and anecdotes. 
M. R. is one of the most popular teachers in Paris, owing to 
his devotibn to the study of the disease he undertakes to 
treat, and his consequent superior knowledge of it ; his agree- 
able mode of lecturing, and the distinctness of his pronuncia- 
tion, which renders him the peculiar favorite of foreigners. 

This afternoon M. de B. and myself made an excursion to 
the village of Sevres, two leagues from Paris, to see the great 
royal porcelain manufactory at that place. This in an im- 
mense establishment, and was an object of the most intense 
niterest to me. It contains a museum, in which are deposi- 
ted a complete collection of all foreign china-ware, with speci- 
mens of the materials of which it is composed ; a collection 
of the china, earthenware, and pottery of France, and of the 
earths used in their fabrication ; and a collection of models? 
of all the ornamental vases, services, figures, statues, &c., 
that have been made in the manufactory since its first estab- 
lishment. These collections occupy a long suit of rooms, and 
rnight afford matter for investigation and amusement foi 
(lays ; but it is in the immense and brilliant show rooms. 
filled with the wares finished at the manufactory, that the 
astonishment and delight of the visitor is excited to the high- 
est pitch. Such a splendid display of sumptuous and beauti- 
ful obiects of art is nowhere else to be found. The models 



KOTES OF TRAVEL. 81 

of the wares are of the most graceful and pleasing kind, and 
the justness, beauty and richness of the coloring cannot be 
exceeded in the best oil paintings. A great number of the 
very best artists in modelling and painting, are hereemplo^^ed. 
We were politely shown the whole process of manufacture, 
from the grinding of the feldspar and the preparation of the 
quartz, to the last deUcate touch of the enamellor's brush. 
That the most highly finished wares should cost enormously 
high, is not so surprising, when we are told, that after eve- 
ry few touches of the brush, it is necessary to put the work 
anew into the kiln, in order to fuse and incorporate the col- 
ored enamel. This must require an incredible number of 
repetitions in some of the largest and most delicately painted 
pieces. How often must the artist, after ^Jie labour of many 
weeks, perhaps when just on the point of congratulating 
himself on the beauty and splendour of his work, see it ut- 
terly destroyed by some unlucky touch, or some crack by the 
application of the necessary degree of heat ! That such acci- 
dents are by no means unfrequent, one may infer from the 
great number of broken and imperfect pieces that are seen. 
In order to give you some idea of the value of these princely 
wares, 1 noted down the prices of a few : — a large urn 37,000 
francs ; another do. 20,000 francs ; a large do. 70,000 francs ; 
a small likeness of the Duchess of Orleans 700 francs ; a Ma- 
donna and Infant 20,000 francs ; a small portrait of a lady 
11,000 francs; history of Chateaubriand (small painting) 30,- 
000 francs ; a landscape 30,000 francs ; another painting 40,- 
000 francs; the School of Athens 53,000 francs; the mistress 
of Titian 25,000 francs; a breakfast set of 11 pieces 3,885 
francs ; another do. do. 4,800 francs ; another do. do. 6,500 
francs ; and another do. do. 9,840 francs ; a small coffee urn 
2,400 francs ; a small painting of XO figures 50,000 francs ; 
an ornamental urn 40,000 francs ;• common sized plates 300 
francs a piece. The cheapest articles in the rooms were cups 
and saucers, for which 50 francs a piece were demanded. 
By calculating 5 francs to the dollar you will easily perceive 
that these rich and sumptuous articles can only come within 
the scope of princes and millionaires. At least breakfast sets 
at 16 or 17 hundred dollars, do not suit me at all. 



82 NOTES OF TRAVEL, 

Immediately opposite Sevres is the village of St. Cloud, 
which derives its name from the famous Palace and Park of 
St. Cloud, the favorite place of residence of Napoleon. The 
palace is a very pretty plain edifice, whose terraces com- 
mand beautiful views ; but as we had no order, we were un- 
able to see the interior. The park forms one of the most 
cJiarming promenades imaginable. Its gardens, avenues, 
statues, lakes, canals, jets d'eau, cascades and noble forests, 
present the most varied and enchanting scenes. On the most 
elevated point is the Lantern of Demosthenes, erected by 
Napoleon after a copy of the monument of Lysicrates at 
i\.thens. From this is obtained one of the most magnificent 
views in the world. An immense amphitheatre is spread 
out before the ravished sight, extending to the distance of six 
or seven miles, embracing the beautiful banks of the Seine, 
with its enchanting villas, its neat cottages and gardens, pic- 
turesque castles and bright green vineyards ; and the whole 
is terminated by the city of Paris, with all its domes, spires. 
and monuments delightfully blended and softened by the thin 
haze that constantly hangs over this immense city. 

19th. — Went to La Charite Hospital and attended the cli- 
nical lecture of M. Velpeau. The professor, observing I was 
a stranger, addressed me with the greatest kindness, asked 
me what countryman I was, how I liked their hospital, how 
long I intended to remain, and then politely pressed me to 
continue my visits to his lectures. The perfect ease with 
which the French savants are approached, their great famili- 
arity and disinterested kindness and liberality, are the con- 
stant theme and delight of every stranger who visits this de- 
lightful capital. No one but the stranger in a strange land 
knows fully to appreciate these attentions which are bestowed 
with a like grace in France alone. I next called on Mr. 
Webb, a distinguished English botanist, at his charming re- 
sidence, adjoining the Luxembourg gardens. He received 
me with great politeness, and kindly ofiered me letters to his 
friends in Italy. I dined to-day with my young friends the 
artists at the '•Haverne AnglaiseP 

As I shall allow myself to spend but a few more days in 
I^aris at this time, I wunit to the Messagtrie Royitle, and 



NOTES 07 TRAVEL. 83 

secured a seat in the diligence for Chalon-Sur-Saone, a dis- 
tance of 260 miles ; for which I paid 44 francs, or rather less 
than ^9, making about 3^ cents per mile ; from which you 
will see that travelling is much less expensive in France than 
it is at home. The charges at the best hotels are generally 
from one to one^and a half francs (20 or 30 cents) for break- 
fast ; 3 francs (60 cents) for dinner; and 2 francs, (40 cents,) 
for room rent per day, with a small gratuity, say 1 franc, 
'^poiir le garcon^^' or for the servants. 

20th. — This is Sunday, but it is very unlike this day at 
home. Accompanied by my travelling companion, Mr. S. 
' of New York, I attended public worship in an English cha- 
pel in the 7'ue de Caillot. where we found a large congre- 
gation, and heard an indifferent sermon. 

After all that I had heard of French filth, I feel myself 
agreeably disappointed in finding the streets of Paris remark- 
ably clean for the density of the population. All the main 
streets and the open squares are constantly sprinkled with 
water, which is drawn on carts in large casks with a fixture 
at the hind end to transmit it in numerous fine jets. This 
operation cools the air delightfully, lays the dust, and is an 
inestimable comfort to passengers. 

.^IsT. — Visited the Hotel Dieu to- see the wards of M. Cho- 
'mel, one of tlie most distinguished and successful practition- 
ers of this capital. He is a man about 48 years of age, of 
middle size, well proportioned, very regular features, a fine 
intellectual countenance and florid complexion. His manner 
is earnest and dignified, without being severe. I was deligh- 
ted with his deliberate and patient manner of investigating 
disease. His custom is to order a chair to the bed-side of all 
new cases, and deliberEttely seating himself, to examine the 
patient with the most scrupulous attention. No case in pri- 
vate practice could be more carefully examined. I paid 
another visit to M. Auzoux, whose anatomical models never 
cease to excite my admiration. 

I had the great satisfaction to-day, of attending a session 
of the Academy of Sciences, who hold their weekly meetings 
in the venerable Palais de V Institut. This is a large and im- 
posing edifice, situated on the (^uai Conti, directly opposite 

7* 



64 V NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

the Louvre, with which it is connected by a beautiful foot- 
bridge of nine cast-iron arches, is upwards of 500 feet long, 
and is one of the most light and elegant structures of its kind. 
This Palace, which was formerly occupied as a college, and 
was known under the name of College Mazarhi, from its 
munificent founder. Cardinal Mazarin, is built in the form 
of a segment of a circle, terminated at the extremities by 
pavilions standing on open arcades. The centre is a pretty 
Grecian portico, surmounted by a pediment, over which 
rises the finely proportioned dome, which makes so conspicu- 
ous an object in most of the views of Paris. The pavilions 
are ornamented with Corinthian pilasters, and their entabla- 
tures are decorated with beautiful vases. Presuming that 
like myself you may have a confused impression of the man- 
ner in which the diiferent branches of this grand national in- 
stitution conduct their multifarious business, and how they 
are divided, I will take the liberty of transcribing the follow- 
ing abstract : The '^Institid de France''' is the name given 
to the collective body of these venerable savants, and is de- 
vided into five Academies, viz : 1st. the Academie Fran- 
caise ; 2d. the Academic Roy ale des Inscriptions et Belles- 
lettres ; 3d. the Academic Roy ale des Sciences; 4th. Acade- 
Tnie Roy ale des Beaux Arts ; 5th. Academic des Sciences 
Morales et Politiques. The whole is supported by the pro- 
ceeds of individual endowments^ and by the government. 
The funds, common to all the academies, are managed by a 
committee of ten members, two from each academy, presi- 
ded over by the Minister of Public Instruction. The nomina- 
tions to vacant places are balloted for in each Academy, sub- 
ject to the approval of the King. The members of one aca- 
demy are ehgible to all the others ; and each receives a sala- 
ry of 1500 francs. Every time a member attends, he receives 
a counter to denote that he was present ; were he not to at- 
tend during the year, his salary would be but 1200 francs, 
and the remaining 300 francs would be divided among those 
who were present at the meetings. Each academy has its 
special rules and funds at its own disposal. The library, col- 
lections, &c., of the Institute, are common to the five Acad- 
emies. The Institute comprises 217 titular members, 45 free 



NOTES OP TRAVEL. 85 

academicians; who receive no salary, 31 associates, and 219 
correspondents. 

The Adadertiie Francaise consists of forty members, who 
are charged with the examination of important works in hte- 
ratm-e, with a view to the improvement of the language. 
This academy adjudges alternately an annual prize of 1500 
francs for poetry and eloquence, It also decrees two annual 
prizes, founded by M. Montyon, one for the work most use- 
ful to public morals, and another for an act of virtue dis- 
played in the lower classes of society. 

The Academie des Inscriptions et Belles-lettres, is also 
composed of 40 members, and 10 free academicians. The 
learned languages, antiquities and monuments are the ob- 
jects of their researches and labors. Their attention is par- 
ticularly directed to the translation of Greek, Latin and Ori- 
ental works into the French language, and to the formation 
of diplomatic collections. This academy adjudges annually 
1500 francs for literary memoirs ; and medals are distributed 
to such persons as produce the best memoirs on the antiqui- 
ties of France. 

The Jlcademie des Sciences contains 63 members, 10 free 
academicians and 10 associates. It is divided into 11 sec- 
tions, as follows : — geometry 6 members ; mechanics 6 ; astron- 
omy 6 ; geography and navigation 3 ; general philosophy 6 ; 
chemistry 6 ; botany 6 ; rural economy and the veterinary 
art 6 ; anatomy and zoology 6 ; medicine and surgery 6. 
The annual prizes adjudged by this academy are, one of 
3000 francs for physical science, one for statistics ; one for 
experimental physiology and one for mechanics. It also 
adjudges prizes for improvements in medicine and surgery ; 
for discoveries relative to the treatment of patients ; for the 
means of rendering an art or trade less insalubrious ; for 
works or discoveries published in the course of the year upon 
objects of utility ; and one by M. Lalande, for the principal 
astronomical discovery or observation. 

The Jicademie des Beaux-Arts is composed of 40 mem- 
bers, 10 free academicians and 10 associates. It is divided 
into five sections, viz: Painting 14 members; sculpture 8; 
architecture 8 ; engraving 4 ; musical composition 6. It also 



85 NOTES OF TBAYEL. 

distributes annual prizes. Those who obtain the grand prizes 
of painting, sculpture, arcitecture and musical composition- 
are sent to Rome, and supported there at the French Acade- 
my, at the expense of the state. 

The Academie des Sciences Moral. set Politiqucs, is form- 
ed by 30 members, 5 free academicians, and 5 associates, 
and occupies itself with history, and the moral and liistorical 
sciences. A secretary is attached to each academy, and two 
to that of sciences. Each academy meets once a week, and 
the annual united meeting of the five academies takes place 
on the first of May. On public occasions the members of 
tlie Institute wear a costume of black, embroidered with oliv© 
leaves in green silk, which had to me a novel and pretty ap- 
pearance. 

The apartment in which the Academy of Sciences holds 
its meetings is a plain one, hung round with .the portraits of 
some of their great men. The desks of the officers are a 
little elevated above the rest, and seats are provided around 
the walls for visitors, with a reservation of several for the 
reporters of different scientific journals. The intellectual 
countenances and nobly formed heads of the members of this 
venerable body, were exceedingly striking. The business 
w^as conducted with great order and decorum, the members 
reading their memoirs and speakhig in their seats without 
rising. I noticed many of my acquaintances in attendance 
as members ; as Dr. Richard, Prof. De Jussieu, Prof. Vel- 
peau, &.C. What gave me very great pleasiure also at this 
meeting, was the sight of the venerable Benson Humboldt^ 
the celebrated traveller, who is now a very aged man, and 
so infirm that he seldom goes from home. 

22d. — I rose early, and went to work in good earnest to 
arrange my etfects preparatory to my departure to the south. 
After my trunk was put in order, (for you mu^ recollect 
when you come over here, not to bring more than one trunk, 
the smaller the better) I went to the Post Office to despatch 
some letters to my friends, and several pamphlets. The 
former were received, but the latter they told me must go by 
the ' messagerie^ or packet-post. On arriving at the othce, I 
offered my brochures, but was told that I must put tliem up 



s NOTES OF TRAVEt. 87 

in oil cloth, attach a specific list of the contents of the packet, 
and make a declaration of the vakie of the articles. Finding 
them so very precise, even as to the manner of putting them 
up, I enquired where I could get the necessary information 
and materials, and was politely shown to a shop, where all the 
requisite appHances were to be had for a few sous. I after- 
wards found that there were a nmnber of persons in the 
neighborhood of the messagerie, who make their living in 
this way. After having seen the number of newspapers, 
documents, and other things by members of Congress (as is 
reported) stuffed promiscuously and unceremoniously into the 
mail bags at home, I naturally considered these precautions 
at first view onerous and even puerile. But, novice as I am 
in travelling, I had already learned not to judge precipitately 
of customs that differ from our own. These packet-posts 
form one of the most convenient arrangements that can well 
be imagined. By them you are enabled to send in the most 
perfect security, any packet, no matter how small, or how 
valuable, if it were even a casket of jewels, to any, even 
tlie greatest distance on the continent — from Italy to Russia, 
from Holland to Vienna. All packets are carefully register- 
ed, along with the invoice and your declaration of the value, 
and if they should be lost, you are at once, without suit or 
prosecution, reimbursed. You will hence readily understand 
the reason of the great punctiliousness observed at these offi- 
ces. I next called on my estimable friend Baron Delessert, 
who is my banker, and procured a letter of credit ; another 
small item I would beg you not to neglect when you come 
to these parts. Now, the mode of managing your funds is 
another great convenience in these countries, by which you 
are not subjected to the annoyance and risque of carrying 
ready money on your person. You make up your mind as 
to the probable sum your journey is going to cost you, for 
which amoimt you ask a letter of credit from your banker^ 
giving him a list of the principal cities through which you 
pass. The letter is made out and addressed to your banker's 
correspondents in those cities, from whom you may draw as 
much money as you want to the full amount your letter calls 
for. In order to prevent any one but yourself from drawmg 



88 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

from these correspondents, if even your letter of credit should 
be stolen or lost, your banker sends to each of them your 
signature, which is always compared with the signature on 
your receipt. 

My mind being at ease at the termination of my arrange- 
ments, M. De. B. and myself set out to visit the Arc dt 
Triomphe de V Etoile, that magnificent monument com- 
menced by the direction of Napoleon in 1806, and designed 
to commemorate the splendid victories of France under his 
government. It is situated on an eminence at the west end of 
the great averme of the Champs Elysees, and forms one of the 
most conspicuous and imposing objects in Paris. I feel myself 
at a loss for language adequate to express the powerful impres- 
sion that this stupendous and magnificent structure produced 
upon my mind ! It is built of a light colored stone, which 
admits of a fine polish and strongly resembles marble. Its 
height is 152, its width 138, and its thickness 68 feet. The 
grand central arch measures 90 feet in height by 45 in width, 
and the transverse arch, runnirg from north to south is 57 
feet high and 25 feet wide. The whole edifice is decorated 
with the most exquisice sculpture and alti-relievi, by the 
abkst artists of modern times. Under the main arch are in- 
scribed the names of 96 victories and 384 generals. I have 
understood that the name of Baron Larry ^ the celebrated 
surgeon-in-chief of the French armies, the friend of Napole- 
on, has been inscribed on the Arch of Triumph since his 
death, which took place in June of last year, (1842.) The 
erection of this splendid piece of architecture was from time 
to time interrupted by various changes and circumstances, 
and its completion and the exquisite manner of its decoration 
were left for the liberality and taste of Louis Phillipe. The 
total cost is estimated at 9,651,115 francs, or nearly two mil- 
lions of dollars. — I spent the evening with my good friend 
M. Huber in the excellent family of M. Guerber. 

23d. — I this morning went to attend the clinical lecture of 
Br. Racamier at the Hotel Dieu, where I met Professor 
March of Albany N. Y., who reminded me of the lecture of 
M. Guerin, the celebrated tenotomist. After breakfast I 



NOTES OF TBAVEL. S9 

resorted to the Hopital des Enfants Malades, the theatre of 
action of M. G. and with softie impatience sat out a verbose 
lecture on his favorite subject. He then performed a num- 
ber of operations for strabismus, club-foot, and other defor- 
mities, with sufficient skill ; but their results of course I do 
not know. I here made the acquaintance of Dr. Wooster of 
Cincinnati, who gave me an introduction to Dr. Parker, our 
countryman, the able surgeon an indefatigable missionary 
to China. I was much gratified to make the acquaintance 
of a gentleman I esteem so highly. On my return from M. 
Guerin^s lecture, I visited the Miisee Dupuytren, the exten- 
sive and deeply interesting collection of pathological speci- 
mens and wax models of this great surgeon, purchased by 
the University of Paris, and beautifully arranged by M. 
Criiveilhier. This is perhaps the richest pathological cabi- 
net in the world, where a surgeon or physician may spend 
weeks in profitable study. — I dined this evening with my 
friend Mr. Webb, who may truly be said to enjoy his otiuvi 
cum dignitate. Althougii a bachelor, I met at his table two 
ladies, and a number of scientific gentlemen, all of different 
nations, English, French, Italian, Spanish, German and 
American. It vv^as amusing to hear the mixture of tongues, 
but the French of course v/as t\\Q current language. The 
conversation was exclusively of a scientific character, in 
which the ladies joined with great ability. I spent the eve- 
ning delightfully, quite after my own taste. 

24th. — Called on M. M. Richard, Webb, and other kind 
friends to procure the letters they had prepared for me, and 
to give them farewell. At half past one, after giving a hear- 
ty adieu to my excellent young friend M. De B., I mounted 
the cabriolet of the diligence, and soon found myself flound- 
ering along through the narrow streets of this crowded city, 
on my "vvay to Chalon-sur-Saone. Several leagues from 
Paris we passed through the beautiful village of Charenton, 
where is located the Asylum for the Insane. Six or eight 
leagues further on, v/e came to Melun, a town containing 
about 70G0 inhabitants, where Abelard Avas professor. Some 
leagues beyond Melun we crossed the Seine on a stone 
bridge, and coasting along the beautiful banks of the Yonne 



90 KOTES OP TRAVEL. 

for several leagues, we crossed the latter river al the pictur- 
esque village of Pont-sur-Yonife. We now soon arrived at 
Auxerre, a curious and interesting old town, containing 12 
or 13 thousand inhabitants, -situated on the slope af a hill 
aanid the most luxuriant vineyards. We here crossed th« 
Vivernals on a pretty stone bridge, and proceeded by a level 
road, through St. Bris and Vermanton, to Avallon. Th* 
country here became more wild and romantic, and less culti- 
vated. After passing through a number of old-fashioned 
towns and quaint villages, we arrived at Autun, a place con- 
taining 10,000 inhabitants, and the ruins of two Roman tem- 
ples, one of Minerva, and another of Janus. Ten leagues 
more through a a country of but little interest, brought us to 
Chalon-sur-Saone, where we arrived at 3 P. M. on the 

25. — The country I have passed over from Paris to this 
place is one of the most delightful Ihave ever seen. Beyond 
Avallon it is diversified by richly cultivated plaii^s, beauti- 
ful green meadows traversed by sparkling rivulets or larger 
streams, by smihng vallies and gently rising slopes covered 
with luxuriant vineyards, the whole interspersed with towns 
villages, villas, cottages and stately castles. This really is 
France, sunny, smiling vine-clad France, all and more than 
my imagination has painted it, a thousand times ! There was 
but one thing wanting to make this Elysium perfect, lh« 
**friends, the beloved of my bosom," 

"Who make each dear scene of enchantment more dear," 
who could feel 

"how the blest scenes of nature improve, 
When we see them reflected from looks that we love.'' 
The soil is a light calcarious one, but cultivated in the 
highest degree. Lime is abundantly applied as a manure, 
and I was told, with the happiest resuhs. Wheat is exten- 
sively cultivated on the plains, and the crops looked very 
rich and promising. We also passed extensive salt works, 
where the primary evaporation is conducted by letting th« 
water trickle from the top of tall sheds over faggots of brusli 
wood, for the purpose of increasing the evaporating surface. 
It is afterward boiled in the ordinary way. I am sure noth- 
ing could be more amusing to a Berks county farmer, than 



NOTES OP TRATEL. 91' 

to see the awkward agricultural implements employed by 
these people. The clumsy plough with its misshapen wood- 
en turn-board and a pair of antediluvian looking wheels stuck 
under the beam, the collars extending at least a foot above 
the horses' necks, the hames projecting still higher, expand- 
ing at the top to at least a width of fifteen inches, j^ainted of 
a flaming red with homely drawings of vines and tulips in 
bright blue, like those seen on old German chests, the rope 
gears and raw-hide traces, the cumbrous and lumbering 
wagons and carts,- &c. &c., were objects that constantly ex- 
cited laughter and surprise. My fellow-passenger in the 
cabriolet, as well as the conductor were unusually silent for 
Frenchmen^ but the latter had his astonishment excited to 
hear I was an American, and very unsuspectingly observed, 
''^mais^ vous ri'etes pas noiry (but you are not black !) 

Chalon-sur-Saone, called Cabillonum by Cassar, where the 
central Canal is formed by the union of those of the Loire and 
the Saone, is- an active bustling place containing 12,000 in- 
habitants. Here are also many fine improvements construc- 
ted under the direction of Napoleoui. A few leagues from 
this is Givry, the place were Abelard died in 1142. 

26th. — Embarked at S\ A» M. on board the beautiful, 
long, swan-like formed steamer^ Hirondelle, bound to Ly- 
ons, a distance of 32- leagues, or 96 miles. This boat is 
regulated like those on the Seine, having a restaurant on 
board, at which you may order anything you want to eat, 
and at any hour you may prefer. I like this system much 
better than our own, as -I have already told you, in the ac- 
count of my voyage from Hnvre to Rouen. This is a great 
preventive of those scenes of tumult and disorder, so common 
at the ordinaries of our boats, and so sedulously avoided by 
the French. Nothing can be more chai'ming than this voy- 
age on the Soane. Its banks partake rather of the boldly 
formed beautiful than the grand. The vine -covered hills are 
studded outboth' sides by peaceable looking hamlets, quietly 
nestled in the dark- cool shade of the lively coloured prune 
and fig-tree, with their quaint little church-spires peering 
above them, with here and there a village of greater preten- 
sions) and an occasional town with its hum of commerce,. 



J>2 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

its promenades and its boulevards. On some of the soft 
slopes of these pretty hills, you will observe the neat modern 
villa, with its air of competency and simplicity as fresh and 
smiling as the very home of contentment ; on the more ele- 
vated points, the sombre and stately castle, with its dilapi- 
dated tfirrents and frowning battlements. 

We arrived in the old city of Lyons at 2 P. M. and I took 
lodgings at the Hotel du Nord, au qiiatrieme, a truly dizzy 
heigh. The city of Lyons, the second in importance in 
France, is situated at the confluence of the Soane with the 
Rhone, was founded by Lucius Munacius Plancus, forty- 
two 3^ears before the Christian era, and was called Lugdun- 
um. It is densely built, having narrow crooked streets with- 
out side-walks, lined with large substantial stone houses, 
that rise to the heigh generally of six to eight stories, black- 
ened by lapse of time ; but is surrounded by one of the rich- 
est and most charming countries in the world. It contains 
about 200,000 inhabitants. After making my toilette, I cal- 
led on Prof. Seringe, to whom I had a letter from my good 
friend Dr. Richard. M. S., the director of the Botanical Gar- 
den, in which he resides, is an old gentleman of great suavi- 
ty and simplicity of manners, and received me in the most 
affectionate kindness. He appinted me to meet him on Mon- 
day, as he had an engagement, but pressed me to examine 
the Garden. This is not very extensive, but is delightfully 
situated on the slope of a hill in a less densely built part of 
the city, and is kept with the most scrupulous attention to 
neatness and order. It is very rich in rare and beautiful 
shrubbery, and contains numerous fine trees of Southern 
growth, which are made to shade the tortuous gravel walks 
with which it is intersected. A number of small rustic foun- 
tains send their crystal waters purling joyously over their 
white gravel beds, that wind gracefully beneath the thick 
underwood, and cool the air delightfully. This garden, as 
is usual in France, is open to the public, and forms a char- 
ming and refreshing retreat from the dust and din of a popu- 
lous city. How much must these beautiful promenades add 
to the physical health of a crowded population, and how 
strong mu:it be their iniluence even in a moral point of view ! 



NOTES OF TRAVEL. 93 

They are the spiracula of large cities, in which the contamr- 
iiated air is reoxygenized, and fitted again to subserve the 
purposes of animal existence. How long will it be before we 
shall pay more attention to the public health, by forming, at 
the public expense, gardens, squares, promenades and ave- 
nues ?— Or how long will it be before our higher classes of 
society will throw off enough of their exclusiveness, to con- 
sent to visit our public squares in common with the laborer 
and artizcm^ and exert that salutary influence of example 
which is so powerful on the continent ? 

27th. — This is Sunda^r, and being desirous of attending 
public worship, I enquired of the landlady for the American 
consul, whose name, I saw by my list, was Jilison. She 
directed me to a caffe, and there I was told that the consul 
was professor of English in the Royal College, where I next 
repaired, and was informed by some students whom I met 
in the corridor, of the residence of the Professor, but they 
were ignorant of his name. Not being easily foiled, after 
having once determined to attain a certain purpose, I thread- 
ed my way through many a narrow and tortuous street, un- 
til after a great difficulty, I found the Professor, a Mr. 
TViland, an Englishman, and was fully rewarded by his intel- 
ligence and kindness for all my trouble. It had now got too 
late to go to church, and Mr. Wiland took me to the Ameri- 
ca7i caffe, where I met a young countryman,. Mr. S. from 
New York, but now a student in Cambridge College, Eng- 
land, who had just returned from Italy, and gave me a great 
deal of valuable information. I need scarcely tell you that I 
spent several hours very agreeably and profitably in the 
company of my newly formed and intelligent friends. iVmong 
the many agreeable incidents of travel, there are none more 
to my liking than the accidental acquaintances that are form- 
ed, which are by no means unfrequently ripened into endur- 
ing friendship. 

Many of the quais which border the Saone on both 
sides, are very fine, and are lined with many substantial 
and beautiful buildings. This river is here about 500 
feet Avide, and is traversed by six stone bridges, five of 
which v/ere swept away bv Ih^ great freshet of Sept. 1840. 

7 



94- XOTES OF TRA-\EL. 

The Rhone is perhaps 100 feet wider, and is crossed by- 
three bridges. The Hotei de ViUe is a splendid Gothic struc- 
ture, it is said, the finest in Europe next to that of Amster- 
dam. The great Hospital called the Hotel Dieu, situated 
on the quai of the Soane, is a beautifully proportioned and 
imposing building, with a fine dome. Its roof is formed of 
differently coloured and gla2;ed tiles, which gives the whole 
structure a rich finish. This is one of the best kept hospitals 
in the kingdom. There are also several fine churches^iii Ly- 
ons, particularly the Gothic Cathedral of St. John. But all 
who have had the rare gratification of examining the magni- 
ficent Gothic structures of Rouen, become very fastidious-in 
these matters. These have left an impression of their solemn 
grandeur on my mind that can never be effaced. The pub- 
lic squares in this city are very numerous, and among them 
is the magnificent Placfi de BeUecou7\ which is said to be im- 
surpassed by any in Europe. It is surrounded by splendid 
buildings, and is adorned by linden trees, and a beautiful 
bronze equestrian statue of Louis XIV. The Place dcs 
Terreaux is also spacious, and very fine. As I was passing 
along this square, I observed a large crowd collected before 
a coffee-house, eagerly looking as if there was something ex- 
traordinary to be seen v.ithin. I immediately made for it, 
and asked a person what was to be seen here? *'An exhibi- 
tion o{ 2^retiy girlSf^' was the reply. Being very naturally 
anxious to witness so novel and pretty a show, I elbowed 
my way intathe room, and following the example of others,, 
made my bow to the ladies, took a seat at one of the pret- 
ty little marble-topped tables, and called for a cup of coffee. 
On an elevated sofa, covered with embossed crimson silk vel- 
vet, behind^ a comiter of white marble decorated with vases 
of pretty flowers, sat four beautiful young females, dressed 
with all that neatness and delicacy of taste so peculiar to the 
French, attending in their ordinary capacities as superinten- 
dents of the- establishment. I sat, sipping my '^denii-tasse'^ 
of delicious coffee, and regaling my sight with tlie beauties 
before me, the one lending a new zest to the other, until I 
felt that mental fatigue that is experienced after examining 
§?r a while the pictures of some of the great masters. Now. 



JfOTES OF tHAVSL. '95 

Chis enjoyment is at the command of every one who can af- 
ford to spend a half franc in the purchase of a cup of coffee. 
This custom, I was tfcrld, is not unfrequent here, and is re- 
sorted to in order to' attract visitors, and thus prove a benefit 
to the house. This exhibition, however, will not appear so 
singular to you, when I tell you, what I believe I have not 
yet told you, that in this country all the coffee-houses are 
superintended by one or two females, seated and decorated 
as I have already described. As the most beautiful and tas- 
ty girls attract most visitors, they of course comm_and the 
highest wages ; so that beauty in France, as you see, is ac- 
tual capital. I like this arrangement, for it tends in no small 
degree to refine the manners, and is the means of preserving 
the most perfect order and decorum. It also tends to elevate 
the female character, (a result so constantly obvious in this 
country) for you can neither come in or go out of a coffee- 
house, v/ithout making your bow and receiving the pretty, 
complaisant smile of MademGiseUe^ unless you wish to at- 
tract attention, or run the risk of being set down for an ill- 
bred clown. In fact, the ladies transact all the ordinary 
business of life in this country, and that very frequently with 
their husbands at their elbows. When you enter a hotel and 
want chambers, you ask for Madam ; she shows them to 
you, descants on their neatness, comfort and cheapness ; if 
you want any alteration or changes made, you ask for Ma- 
dam ; if you want any infoimation in regard to the city or 
town 3^ou are in, you apply to Madam ; if you have ??ny 
complaints against your servants, (which by the bye is- very 
rare in France) you lodge them with ISIadam ; if you want 
to hire a horse, or a vehicle, or wish to procure a vakt de- 
place, you refer to Madam 5 if- you want to pay. your bill 
Madam makes it @ut, receives the money and receipts for 
it ; and so on in every thing else. In short Madam is the 
factotum, the all-pervading genius— is everywhere except^ 
as you would say, where she ought to be. But she per- 
forms all these multifarious duties with an ease and grace 
peculiarly French. All things seem to be bought, sold and' 
bargained for by the females. So in their shops, even the • 
large shops of Paris, although you may make your purciia^ 



96 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

ses of males, they will accompany you to the ^-caise,''^ (the 
treasury) which is a prettily ornamented desk near the door, 
with an elegant elevated sofa behind it, occupied by two or 
three ladies, {jjretfy of course) who make the calculation, 
receive the money and receipt your bill. They also direct 
you in what part of the establishment to find the article you 
want, for to them you are handed over by the liveried ser- 
vants that you generally find at the doors of large shops in 
the cities. All the different kinds of goods are arranged in 
particular parts of these shops, which are often bewildering- 
ly large. Thus for example, if you ask for linen, you will 
be shown to a particular compartment in which this article 
alone is kept; thus with velvet vestings, with silk vest- 
ings, with cotton vestings, with stockings, whh gloves, &c., 
and the sale of each particular kind of goods is attended 
to by a particular person. This is a great convenience to 
shoppers, for by a single glance of the eye they see the 
whole stock of the particular description of goods sought 
for and the selection is much more readily made. Apro- 
pos, shopping — I asked a French lady one day whether 
they ever went s/iopping in Paris in our sense of the 
Vv^ord, (that is, going round to look at the goods without 
any intention to purchase) and used a literal translation of 
our word, and then gave her an explanation of what I 
meant by it. She was extremely amused with the idea, 
and assured me that they should consider such conduct quite 
miaihonntte. 

2Sth. — I rose at 5 o'clock and sallied out in search of the 
market. It is one of my peculiar fancies to loiter through 
the market-places in different cities, for I am always sure to 
learn considerably and to encounter no small amount of 
amusement. It is iiere I learn with the least trouble the 
natural productions of the country or province I am in, the 
appearance, manners and customs of the people in the country 
around, and often even some of their views and modes of 
thinking. The articles of marketing are brought to this city, 
as is common all over France, on the backs of mules and 
jack-asses, driven or rode (often astride) by women, who 
frequently spin or knit as they go. All the articles are im- 



NOTES OF TRAVEL. 97 

mediately bought up by the retailers and removed to their 
shops in different parts of the city, so that the consumer 
never purchases from the producer, nor is he obliged to go, 
as with us, to the market, but lays in his stock, or rather 
purchases his articles by dribs at these shops, as he wants 
them. The market at Lyons is very abundantly supplied 
with a great variety of articles at a very cheap rate. I here 
saw kids exposed to sale, and a great abundance of fine 
fowls, generally capons, of which the French make more use 
than we do. I here also for the first time saw fresh figs, and 
tasting, I found them delicious, and at once bought as many 
as I could hold in both my liands, determined to have a de- 
lightful feast. I retired to the quai and commenced eating, 
but so luscious did I find them that I soon discovered I 
had far overestimated the powers of my palate. Some rag- 
ged urchins in my vicinity were not sorry for my miscalcu- 
lation, for I was obliged to divide the greater portion among 
them. I was seldom able to eat more that two fresh figs at 
a time. 

Crossing the Saone by one of its beautiful stone bridges, I 
ascended the opposite steep bank by upwards of 150 stone 
steps, which brought me into a narrow precipitous street,, 
winding by various turns between high walls and tall houses^ 
and terminated finally on the elevation called the hill of 
Fourvieres. Here is situated an observatory, called the 
tower of Pitrat, a very pretty modern structure that was re- 
built within a few years. I ascended and enjoyed from its 
top one of the most rich, magnificent and varied views that 
-can be imagined. The hour was the most propitious, the 
still morning of a blan-d and charming summer's day, when 
the calmed and recruited senses are in harmonious unison 
with the all-pervading quietude around. Immediately sur- 
rounded by the pretty villas and rich gardens of the rich citi- 
zens of this second capital of France, the venerable looking 
-old city of Lyons, situated on the rich alluvial land between 
the bright waters of the Rhone and Saone, with its tall dark 
houses, its domes and pointed spires, its numerous squares^ 
avenues, streets and beautiful quais, Avas spread out at my 
feet In its immediate vicinity were its faubourgs 3 and 



9» KOTES OF TEAVITL* 

numerous pretty villages interspersed with forests and rniii-' 
berry groves, and stately chateaux, and charming country 
seats, reclining on the sunny slopes amid luxuriant vineyards,, 
.and dark green groves of iig trees, with here and there a Ro- 
man ruin, the beautiful bright waters of the Saane taking their 
meandering course far, far in the distance, were objects that 
filled up this beautiful picture, whose back groimd was form- 
ed by the dark masses of the mountains that bound the 
distant horizon. The beauty of this enchanting scene was 
farther heightened, and deliciously mellowed by the blue 
mantle of the morning's mist, which is pecuUarly soft and 
delicate in those latitudes. — In this vicinity is also situated the 
general Cemetery of Lyons, which I next visited. It is ex- 
tensive, is prettily laid out in avenues and walks planted 
with fine trees, and contains many beautiful tombs, which 
are generally enclosed by neat railings in which flowers are 
cultivated. I like much this custom, so common among the 
French, of cultivating flowers on tlie graves of their deceased 
friends. They may be made emblematic of most of the mor- 
al qualities, and are always a beautiful emblem of that great 
consolatory doctrine of our holy religion, the resurrection. 
Then there is something very touching intliis delicate and 
simple tribute thus paid to the dead, and is moreover within 
the reach of all classes. Returning inta the city, I saw num- 
l>ers of she-asses driven from door to door to be milked for 
the use of the sick ; this is also common in Paris. I resorted 
to the American cofl'ee-house to take my caffe me lait, and 
there met v/ith an excellent young countryman. Mi*. R. S.. 
Ely, from Hartford, Conn., a distant relative af the Rev. 
Dr. Ety. At 1.L o'clock, my friend Prof. Seringe called on 
me to sliow me an establishment for the manufacture oi gcd- 
vanized iron. The object is to coat the iron thinly but 
equally with zinc, thus forming a galvanic series which en- 
tirely prevents rusting. The sheet-iron is fii^st plunged 
into a bath of sulphuric acid and water, and the solution that 
remains after the clarification of vegetable oils by sulphuric 
acid is considered far superior. It is next, pixt into a weak 
solution of sulphate of soda, and then into; another bath of 
jjjuriatic acid, from which it is removed and thorouglily dried 



NOTES OF TRAVEt. 



9^ 



m a furnace. It is now plunged into a bath of melted zino, 
covered with salammomac, as in the process of tinning. Iron 
thus prepared can be furnished at the same price with tin, 
aiid is used for roofing and other purposes where sheet iron 
and tin would be corroded by rust. We uext visited a num- 
ber of silk factories and witnessed the Various processes 
through which this rich material passes before it is pirepared 
for use. Among many other curiosities m the manufacture 
of silk, we looked at a most ingenious loom just patented, 
for the weaving of silk velvet, by which two pieces are wov- 
en at the same time one over the other, and they are cut 
apart by a knife moved by the loom itself. By this machine 
three times the amount of work can be done as by the ordi- 
nary loom. I was exceedingly tempted to 'ptu'chase many 
of the splendid articles of silk that were offered me to day, 
at prices too so very low. A magnificent double silk velvet 
shawl -of immense dimensions and most beautifully figured, 
excited' my covetousness to the last -degree, but 1 1\ras travel- 
li-ng South, and was obliged to forego it. Prof. Seringe in- 
troduced me to the director of the Museum, who tvas very 
polite in showing me all its rich and curious treasures. The 
gallery of Natural History is very fine, and kept in the neat- 
est order. There are some fine paintings knd many antique 
relics found in and about Lyons. Among the latter is a 
beautiful mosaic pavement representing gymnastic exercises, 
and another representing chariot races, and the table on 
which is engraved the speech made by the Emperor Claudi- 
us in favor of Lyons. ^ I was also introduced to Dr. Comar- 
mond, a gentleman of wealth, who possesses a most rich 
and curious museum o^f Roman, Greek and Egyptian anti- 
quities, as v/ell as a great variety of beautiful relics of' the 
middle ages, occupying five largo apartments, all of which 
he showed me with the greatest politeness and patience. He 
pressed me very much to return to Lyons to attend a great 
scientific meeting of savans in September next. Nothing, 
you may well suppose, would have given me more pleasure, 
but it was incompatible with my other arrangements. 

29th. — Embarked at 4 A. M. on board the iron steamer 
Pepin for Avignon, 180 miles. The boat is very fine, but 



iOQ NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

the captain and attendants admit of some improvement. Tlie 
Rhone is a noble river below its junction with the Saone, and 
reminds me more of our own rivers than any I have yet seen. 
The country on either side is beautifully varied by vine-cov- 
ered hills, rich plantations, green meadows and romantic dells, 
interspersed with quaint old villages and pretty towns, until 
you come to Montehmort, where the hills, becoming more 
abrupt, are barren, micultivated and often quite bare. These 
naked and arid eminences are peculiarly miinviting in their 
aspect ; but even here every foot of bottom-land is thickly 
covered with the mulberry-tree {Moms ^^IIIhi) for the feed- 
ing of the silk worms which are so abundantly reared in tliis 
part of France. My friend Prof Seringe of Lyons assured 
me that the Moms Midticaulis is but a viiricty, and not a 
species, as I believe has generally been supposed at home, 
and that it does not well bear the climate even of the middle 
of France. The ivhite mulberry is the only kind I have seen 
cultivated thus far. — The appearance of the vines on the 
Rhone remind me very much of our fields of young corn, 
for they are not permitted to exceed more than two or three 
feet in heigh, and are unsupported by props. 1 made the 
acquaintance of a plain, sensible old gentleman on board of 
the boat, who is a land-proprietor and vine-dresser. He 
assured me, contrary to what I had [frequently heard assert- 
ed at home, that the cultivation of the grape and making of 
wine are very lucrative in France. Not far distant from Ly- 
ons we passed the town of Vienne, to which Pontius Pilate, 
the Procurator of Judea was banished, and where he died 
by his own hand. 

The Rhone is spanned by a great nmnber of suspension 
bridges of the most light and beautiful construction, in Avhich 
iron wire cables are employed instead of chains. These ca- 
bles must be much stronger and safer than the ordinary chains 
composed of large links and rods of iron, which are infinite- 
ly more subject to flaws and imperfections. We arrived at 
the curious old city of Avignon at about 4 P. M. after a most 
delightful voyage. 

Avignon is a strongly walled and garrisoned city, situated 
on the left bank of the Rhone, opposite a delightful httle^ 



NOTES OF TRAVEL. 101 

island, and in a country of great richness and beauty. It con- 
tains 30,000 inhabitants, and is built in the Italian, or per- 
haps more in the oriental style, the houses very substantial, 
stuccoed externally, and with very few windows to the street. 
The streets themselves are extremely narrow and tortuous, 
often not more than six or eight feet in width. The old pa- 
pal palace enclosing an antiquated church is a very interest- 
ing and venerable-looking pile, whose time-worn steps are 
reduced to one third of their original thickness by the tread of 
departed thousands. This was the residence of seven succes- 
sive Popes in the XIV century. A view of the city obtained 
from a high rock near the palace reminded me much of Cath- 
erwood's panorama of Jerusalem. 

30th. — I rose at 5 o'clock and set out upon my usual 
business of a random ramble, when I met persons car- 
rying all kinds of fruits and marketing, which induced me 
to pursue means I had frequently before employed for the 
purpoee of finding the market place — that of stemming the 
current of the crowd to its source. I found the market very 
abundantly supplied, particularly with southern fruits, and 
the costumes of the peasanty unusually varied and pictur- 
esque. Plums, prunes, apricots, figs, oranges and lemons were 
already in full maturity, and very cheap. I handed a wo- 
man a sou (a cent) for some apricots, supposing I should get 
one or two of them ; she began to prepare her scales to weigh 
them, (for everything even to fruit, is sold by weight in 
France) but telling her it was unnecessary, that I wanted but 
a few, she picked me out six of the finest, assuring me she 
was "bien contente.^^ The country people, and the lower 
classes even in the city, speak a patois that approaches the 
Italian, (often terminating their words by adding a vowel) 
which I did not, however, find very difficult to understand. 

I next called on Prof. Reqiiien, director of the Botanic 
Garden, for whom I had a small packet from Prof. G. of 
New York. He appointed me to meet him at 8i o'clock at 
the Garden, to which of course I was punctual. The Bota- 
nic Garden being situated on low ground, Avas almost ruined 
by the great freshet, and I found the Professor busily enga- 
ged in retrieving his mortifying losses. It is smah, but I have 



102 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

no doubt, from the activity and energetic character of the di- 
rector, that it must have been rich and well kept. INI. R., 
although much occupied, did me the kindness to accompany 
me to the JNIuseum. The department of Natural History is 
small, but extremely neat, and the collection of minerals, 
made solely by M. Requien, is peculiarly rich and beautiful. 
It is also unusually rich in coins, and by the liberality of Mr. 
Deininger, of Reading, I was enabled to perfect their set of 
American coins, of which they had but two, viz : the half 
cent, and the dollar. I added the cent, and the 5, 10, 25 and 
50 cent pieces. JNIr. D. had sent by me a set of our coinage 
to one of his friends in Wertemberg, and added a duplicate 
set to be disposed of as I mi^ht see proper. M. Requien, 
who takes a deep interest in the subject, was highly gratified 
with the donation. But what interested me most in this mu- 
seum, were the large and valuable collections of Roman and 
Gallic antiquities, .particularly the former. I was assured by 
the director that they have here the best assemblage of Ro- 
man. glass in existence, consisting of bottles, plates, dishes, 
&.C. I was very much interested in the numerous lacryma- 
toria preserved here. They are small glass vessels, that 
would hold from several drachms to an ounce, formed with 
a long neck and bulb at the bottom in the shape of a pipkin, 
in which the Romans collected the tears that were shed at 
funerals, and preserved them by carefully sealing their 
mouths. They were then placed in the funeral urns, along 
with the ashes of the dead, where they are found at the pres- 
ent day. JNIany of those I saw actually still contained small 
quantities of the liquid."* Here are also collected a great 
number of those curious little ornaments called jn^iaps, worn 
by the Roman ladies, probably of all ranks, as they are made 
of bronze, precious stones, silver and gold. Ivory pins, (per- 
haps for the hair, as they are long) bronze needles and thim- 



* Some of the best archaiologists of the present day believe that the 
lacrymatoria served to contain some lioly unguent or balsam, and not the 
tears ; or that the tears ^vere mixed wiih this balsam. This would appear 
to gain plausibility from the fact that in all those I saw, including num- 
bers taken from the ruins "of Herculaneum and Pompeii, the conlaineU 
Jttf|uid was thick and viscid. 



NOTES OF TRAVEL. 103 

Hqs, small bronze images of the peiiates, or household gods^ 
bronze lamps, knives, spoons and pens are abundant in this 
collection. I also saw here ivory dice, and some of them 
are said to be loaded with lead^ as is practiced at the present 
day ; so you see that the world has not much changed, in 
some things at least, within the last two thousand years. 
There were Roman as well as Yankee hlack-legs, and the 
modes .of practice h.d>NQ \mdiQi^owQ no change. The strigil 
was a curious bronze instrument, resembling the small scra- 
pers used by gardeners for loosening the ground around their 
plants, designed to scrape and cleanse persons when in the 
bath. The inference to be drawn from the use of this instru- 
ment is equivocal, and I have not yet decided in my own 
mind whether to presume that the Romans were more filthy 
or more cleanly than ourselves. This is a point that would 
admit of much debate on both sides, as Knickerbocker would 
say. It is really very astonishing that the ancients did not 
discover the art of printing, for there are in this museum 
some moveable types, which appear to have been used for 
stamping bricks and other such like articles. Many of the 
funeral urns still contain the ashes of the dead, with frag- 
ments of bone sufficiently organized to be easily distinguish- 
ed. The collection of Roman coins and medals is very con- 
siderable. The library, which is also in this building, con- 
tains 25,000 volumes, beside many ancient manuscripts of 
great rarity and value. 

The principal manufactories in this city are those of silk. 
I visited an establishment in which there were 50 reels, driv- 
en by steam power, and attended by females. The filatures 
and looms are usually distinct ; but here they were conjoin- 
ed, and the stik stuffs were finished from the cocoons under 
the same roof. I would advise you to stop at the Hotel de 
P Europe when you come this way, for it is a delightful 
house, and the landlady is most obliging. 

At 6 P. M. I clambered into the cabriolet of the Diligence, 
and set out for Marseilles, distant 80 miles, for which I paid 
7 francs, about one dollar and twenty cents. As far as I 
could see, before night overtook us, the country was level, 
rich, and cultivated with great care. The forepart of the 



104 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

night was balmy and delightful, and om* solitary way was 
cheered by the sweet and melodious song of the nightingale. 
This was the first time I had heard this celebrated songster 
of the night, and I was charmed with it. Its note, although 
low, is full, very melodious, and rich with a soft plaintive- 
ness that harmonizes well with the night and with my temp- 
erament. No wonder that the praises of the nightingale have 
been sung by poets both ancient and modern ; for who. does 
not become poetical, in feelmg ?it least, under its charming 
carol at the witching hour of midnight, when the air is thick 
with perfume, and fairies walk! In the latter part of the 
night the air became so keen and sharp, for we had now got 
into a hilly country, that it chilled me thoroughly, and I was 
obliged to get into the interieur, where I soon fell asleep and 
slept soundly. This is a great comfort in night travelling on 
the continent, that you can sleep dehghtfully; so fine are 
the roads, so roomy is the vehicle, and so steady is its mo- 
tion. 



JULY— 1S41. 

1st. — We stopped early in the morningat Aix, a celebrated 
watering-place and beautiful town, to get a cup of coffee^ 
which I relished with great zest. After leaving Aix, the 
country was broken and picturesque, and highly interesting 
to me from the new appearance which the growth of South- 
ern vegetation threw over the rich and varied landscape. We 
entered the ancient and commercial city of Marseilles at 8 
o'clock in the morning, and I took lodgings at the magnifi- 
cent Hotel des Ambasadeiirs. 

Marseilles was founded by a Greek colony from Phocoea 
600 years before Christ, and has undergone unusual changes 
in its fortunes. Under its original founders it became a flour- 
ishing republic, and was considered a place of great impor- 
tance under the Roman domination. Cicero called it the 
Athens of Gaul. It is situated on both sides of an inlet of 
the JNIediterranean, which has a very narrow entrance, for- 
ming its harbour ; capable, it is said, of containing 1200 ves- 
sels. The old town, between the harbour and the sea, is 
closely built upon narrow, crooked streets, and is uninviting 



Notes of travel. 105 

in its appearance ; but the new town in the opposite direc- 
tion, contains many beautiful houses and fine wide streets, 
with side-walks, a rare luxury in continental cities. The 
Cours de Bonaparte is a magnificent street shaded by 
majestic trees, and the Cours St, Louis is also very fine, ter- 
minated at one end by a Triumphal Arch, and at the other 
by an Obelisk. The city is strongly fortified on the side 
41 toward the sea, and the harbour is well defended by Fort St. 
Jean on one side of the entrance, and the Citadelle St. Nico- 
las on an immense elevation on the opposite side. From the 
latter position, I enjoyed a magnificent view of the city and 
the Mediterranean, rolling its beautiful blue waves at my 
feet, and dotted with the white sails of the shipping as far 
as the eye could carry ! This then is the classic Mediterrane- 
an, and the ardent, longing desires of my boyhood are really 
consummated ! My eyes actually rest upon its still blue 
waters. It appears to me like a delightful day dream, that 
over-crowds the imagination and makes me fearful to move, 
lest it should vanish ! 

I called on Mr. Croxall, our consul, to ascertain the resi- 
dence of Dr. Yvan, for whom I had a card from my good 
friend Prof. Richard of Paris. He received me with great 
politeness, but could give me no information of the Doctor. 
I next searched out the Hopital du St. Esprit, the city 
Hospital, a fine large establishment, exceedingly well kept, 
but unfortunately situated in a very crowded part of the city. 
To this I think may be attributed in part the fearful mortal- 
ity after capital operations, which, I was told by one of the 
pupils, is 12 out of 15 ! It was here I incidentally met with 
Dr. Yvan, who received me with the greatest politeness, and 
introduced me to his friends Prof. Derbes and Dr. Diicros. 
The latter is physician to the hospital. Dr. Y. and Professor 
Derbes accompanied me to the Museum of Natural History , 
which is not extensive, but very neat. The Prof, showed me 
his rooms in the college, containing a beautiful collection of 
philosophical apparatus. I was also introduced by these 
gentleman to Dr. Caitriere, another of the principal physici- 
ans of the city, who, as well as M. Debres, speaks English 
with considerable fluency. 



106 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

2d. — I rose at 5, and paid a visit to the market. The 
peasantry are of low stature, but muscular and well formed, 
and the women rather pretty and very vivacious ; but their 
costume is not so picturesque as in many other parts of 
France. The horses here are not so fine as those of Paris, 
but they have a remarkably large breed of mules, that seem 
to be unusually docile, and a great number of beautiful small 
ponies used both for saddle and draught. I here for the first 
time saw goats driven about the streets to supply the citizens 
v/ith milk. Among the most striking and interesting objects 
of this city are the interminable -varieties of costumes from 
all nations on the globe. Those from the East are very pic- 
turesque, and presented to me the greatest novelty. Dr. 
Ducros, according to promise, called on me and very polite- 
ly offered me a seat in his carriage to visit the hospital. I 
was very much pleased with his manner of investigation, 
and the kindness with which he treated his patients. I was 
however, utterly unable to understand the patois of the in- 
mates, and was obliged to beg the doctor to interpret for me, 
which he did with great kindness and urbanity. Dr. D*- says 
typhoid fever is one of the most common aifections in their 
hospital. H« thinks the glandular ulcerations are its charac- 
teristic pathological signs, but believes that it often commen- 
ces as a simple en^onVe, which from neglect run sinto ulcera- 
tion, and that the peculiar general symptoms are the result 
of absorbtion. Indeed he conceives that the typhoid aflec- 
tion is always the consequence of an absorption of a peculiar 
poison, either through the medium of the lungs or the absor- 
bents. Excuse me for giving you an occasional dash of med- 
ical lore ; this is for Dr. I., and you can readily pass it over 
miread. 

Having a day to spare before the departure of the boat for 
Ital}?-, I agreed to accompany Mr. Rieger, an Austrian gen- 
tleman who lodged at our hotel, on a visit to Toulon to see 
the principal navy yard of France. We set out in the dilig- 
ence at 9 o'clock in the evening, and arrived there at 4 the 
next morning, a distance of 35 or 40 miles. I regretted 
much that I could not make this route by day-light, for I am 
told it is one of the most romantic in the South of France. 



XOTES OF TRAVEL. IGT' 

f slept soundly, however, nearly the whole distance, both 
going and coming, (for we returned again by night) and know 
nothing of the road except that it appeared to be very moun- 
tainous. I think I have had occasion already to refer to the 
facility and comfort of sleeping in a French Diligence. 
Night traveUing scarcely gives one any inconvenience in 
this country. Toulon is a quiet comfortable looking town, 
very strongly fortified by walls, and defended by a citadel 
and a number of forts and batteries. It contains about 30,- 
000 inhabitants, exclusive of the strong military force that is 
constantly kept here. After taking our breakfast and a rest 
at the Croix de Matte, an exx:ellent hotel situated on a de- 
lightfully shaded square^ we engaged a guide to show us the 
great fort at the mouth of the harbour. It is an immense 
structure, situated on an eminence that commands the ap- 
proach of the harbour to a grea.t distance. Its subterranean 
works, to which we could not be admitted, are said to be 
gigantic. We next called upon M. Durand, an employe at 
the navy-3'ard, to whom I had a note from my very good 
friend Dr. Yvan. Ke received us with great politeness, and 
turned us over to an officer to show us the yard; This man 
seemed to enter upon his task with more willingness when 
he heard I was an American, for he- said he had- visited Bos- 
ton and New York in his cruises, and .that he had received 
much kindness from Americans.^ The buildings belonging to 
the yard are immense, and all fire-^proof. Ship building is 
carried on here on a gigantic scale and the iabour is almost 
exclusively performed by the galley-slaves, of which there are 
at present upwards of two thousand. They are dressed in a 
uniform of a red jacket and cap, and have a heavy chain at- 
tached to the ancle, -^ich is hooked up to their girdles when 
they are at work. Every thing necessary to the construction 
and arming of a m.an-of-war, except the glass, is made in 
the yard. After having walked incessantly through this im- 
mense establishment for the s-pace of upwards of two hours, 
until we were thoroughly, fatigued, we were told that Ave 
had seen but the smallest part of it, but we declined going 
a,ny further. As far as I could judge the convicts appear- to 
be well fed, well clothed and treated with great humanity. 



I OS NOTES OF TRAVEI.. 

Among them I observed some nearly black, but who had 
the sharp featm'es of the white ; I inquired who they 
were, supposing them to come from the West Indian colo- 
nies, but was told they were Bedouins. We returned to 
Marseilles at an early hour in the morning, highly dehghted 
with our excursion, and gratified with the polite attentions 
we had received at Toulon. 

4th. — Embarked at 9 A. M. on board of the steamer Pha- 
ramond, bound to Naples, to put in at Genoa, Leghorn and 
Civita Veccia sufficiently long to see those cities. For this 
trip I paid tout compynt, while on board, 180 francs, equal 
to about 35 dollars. This is a beautiful boat, all French even 
to the engines, decorated with that peculiar taste and neat- 
ness in which these people so eminently excel. At 10 o'clock 
we weighed anchor, and our pretty vessel touching the 
waves as lightly as a swan, glided buoyantly under the cit^ 
adel of St. Nicolas, and cast her delicate shadow on the pla- 
cid bosom of the deep blue Mediterranean. The day was 
calm and quite as one of Indian summer, and the mellow 
rays of an Italian sun painted the fast-fading city of Marseil- 
les in the softest colors. My sensations were of a peculiar 
and indescribable character : a kind of dreamy, luxurious 
excitement chastened by a feeling of agreeable melancholy, 
vsuch as is felt on the last lingering day of autumn, when the 
latest weathered leaves of the forest fall reluctantly, and drop, 
with a gentle rustle, to the ground. Our company on board 
was not very numerous, but select. Among the passengers 
were five Dutch ladies from Amsterdara, with their carriage 
and two servants, who are going to make the tour of Italy 
without any other protector than their coachman. I men- 
tion this to show that European ladieWeel themselves compe* 
tent to protect themselves ; for it is by no means a solitary 
instance of similar occurrence. When will American ladies 
manifest a like degree of courage and independence ? 
While at dinner I addressed one of these ladies who sat next 
to me, in English, (for they speak four or five difierent lan- 
guages) and in the course of conversation mentioned that I 
was an American, vv^hen a gentleman opposite to me remark^ 
fd, "then we are countrymen, for I^ am also an American, 



NOTES OF TRAVEL. 109 

and am happy to meet with a compatriot." Tliisi was a 
nephew of Commodore Preble, named Henry Oxnard, who 
is a merchant and resides in Marseilles. He was going to 
Italy to meet his family, who are rusticating in the neigh- 
borhood of Leghorn. I found him a pohte, intelligent gen- 
tleman, who furnished me with a great deal of valuable in- 
formation. He told me that the rearing of the silk worm is' 
considered a very profitable business in France, and that it 
is pursued by the proprietors of large estates. The produc- 
tion of the cocoons, the reeling and its subsequent manufac- 
ture form distinct branches of business. Cocoons generally 
bring from 3 to 4 frarcs per pound, and reeled silk 15 francs. 
He also assured me that the cultivation of the vine is one of 
the most lucrative occupations in the kingdom, and that the 
vine districts are esteemed among the most wealthy. 

5th. — Last night was calm, and after a most delightful 
evening spent on deck, I retired late and slept very comfort- 
ably. At 7 A. M. we entered the magnificent Gulf of 
Genoa, and in an hour more anchored before Genoa, the 
city of palaces, called by the Italians '^Genova la Superba,^' 
"We were immediately boarded by the health officers, who 
ordered all of us to one end of the deck, from which we were 
passed to the other end, undergoing, one by one, their strict 
scrutiny. This done, we were pronounced "clean,'' and at 
liberty to enter the Sardinian domains. But the Pharamond 
owed us a breakfast, and we were not willing to depart with- 
out it. The table was spread on deck, and we took our 
'■'dejune a la fourchette'^ in this beautiful harbour, under the 
serene blue sky of Italy, fanned by the cool morning breeze 
of this delicious climate. Before us stretched along the beach 
was the long white line of the fort, with its immense black 
guns reposing in solemn silence, as if disdaining, conscious of 
their annihilating power, so insignificant an object as our 
beautiful little steamer. Above this, rising in a crescent form, 
reposed the snow-white city of Genoa, with its gilded domes, 
its fretted spires and marble palaces ranged one above the 
other like the seats of a gigantic amphitheatre, delicately ting- 
ed with purple and gold by the oblique rays of the newly- 
risen sun, mellowed by the light blue mist of the morning. 

9 



110 NOTES OP TRAVEL, 

This was thrown into bold relief by the dark shadow of th?» 
Appenines, against which the city is built, which rise high 
above its limits and impress their graceful outline upon the 
clear blue ether beyond. On our right and left lay anchored 
the shipping with its variegated flags gently undulating in 
the breeze, and between it were softly flitting the gaily deck- 
ed boats of the watermen like spirits of the sea. Behind us, 
stretched farther than the eye could reach,, the blue mirror of 
the Mediterranean dotted with white sails that at every 
moment were changing their shade of colour and their form. 
This scene exceeded my most vivid youthful dreams ! Its 
sight is an epoch in my life ! 

Five of the passengers now joined in a party to visit 
the city, for which purpose, after our debarkation, we 
engaged a guide. Genoa contains about 85,000 inhabi- 
tants, and is defended on the land side by double walls 
of great strength. There are but three or four streets 
that are sufliciently wide to admit carriages, and many 
of the rest are not more than four or five feet in width. 
They are, however, well paved, clean and delightfully cool, 
for the houses are of such an immense height that the sun's 
rays never fall upon the pavement. We are altogether ia 
error at home when we suppose that wide streets add to the 
coolnrss of our cities. The great object in the cities of this 
country is to exclude the sun as much as possible, and this 
is done by making their streets excessively narrow and tor- 
tuous. I was at a loss to account for the narrowness of the 
streets in the old cities of Europe, before I went to the Souths 
and experienced the comfort of being screened from the in- 
tense heat of a vertical sun by these means. As population 
and civilization proceeded from the South to the North, the 
manner of constructing their chies was carried with them, 
and habit continued a practice whose object had ceased to 
exist, as is very common in many other things. Nothing 
can exceed in magnificence several of the streets in this city^ 
particularly the Strada Nuovissima, which is lined on both 
sides nearly throughout its lengh by the most splendid pala- 
ces in beautiful white marble. The Cathedral is an interes- 
ting old Gothic structure, and contains some very fine paint- 



ROTES OF TRAVEL. UJ 

Jngs ana statues. Many of the palaces are maaniflcently 
iurnished and decorated, and centain most precious objects 
ot art. In one of these is a large apartment finished in marble 
and/,feto/ throughout with p»re gold 4 line in thickness! 
Its appearance is very rich, but greater taste might have 
%een displayed at infinitely less expense. In the Palazzo 
Ducale, formerly the residence of the Doges, is an old paint- 
ing which must deeply interest eveiy American; it repres- 
ents the debarkation of Columbus. Here is also an original 
.portrait of the great Navigator. One side of the city is u-av- 
«rsed by a deep ravine, across which a beautiful stone bridge 
of immense elevation is thrown. Many of the houses in this 
neighborhoodrise to the height of fourteen or fifteen s'tories 
Here for the first time, I noticed the sedans which are put in 
a-equisition on account of the extreme narrowness of the 
^treets They are oblong bo.xes, completelv closed, with 
doors hke coach doors on the sides, the upper parts of which 
are glazed and furnished with curtains that draw on the ir- 
«ide. These are set upon a frame with four feet to it an^t 
two handles projecting from each end like a bier In the 
interior is arranged A comfortable seat well cushioned, and 
the whole IS carried by two porters. These sedie are found 
stationed m groups in convenient situations, awaiting pas- 
angers like our cabs and hacks. Habit familiarizes every 
thmg, but I felt something extremely revolting in the idea of 
using my fellow-beings as beasts of burthen. 

Here I parted with my Austrian friend, M. da Rieeer 
wno goes into the interior. I regret this, for I found hirn a 
very intelligent gentleman and agreeable companion. Our 
party dined at the Hotel Suisse, a very large establishment, 
but I cannot say that I was very favourably impressed with 

Xni ^, ^""^ excessively fatigued, I turned in and 

slept soundly, and when I awoke in the mc.rnin<. of the 

6th I found we had anchored before Leghorn. By the 
time I had made my toilette, I found that all my fellow-pas- 
sengers had already gone ashore. While I stood at the gang 
way parleying with those miscreants, the Italian wateLen, 
who were trying to impose upon me, I caught the open, h^ 



•1l'2' jrOTZS OP TRilTEri^- 

*»st countenance of one of the deck-passengers, and lecogiuzeS 
the German in it with so much certamty, that I unhesitating- 
ly addressed him in that language. I was but sHghtly mis- 
taken in my conclusion; he was a Swiss, who had served six 
rears in the Neapoliian army, spoke Italian, and was per- 
fectly familar with the Italian character, I at once engaged' 
liim as interpreter and guide. 

There is nothing in the least interesting in the situation of 
Leghorn ; (called Llvorno in Itahan) but the city itself is 
Tv^ell built, generally on Tery nan'ow streets as is common in 
this country. It contains 65,000 inhabitants, and appears to 
be much more commercial than Genoa. The principal street- 
called the Sh'ada Ferctinandea, •runs the whole length of 
the cit}^ is wide, well paved and of great magnificence, 
owing to the splendid siiops with which it is lined. It is at 
ail times densely crowded with the most motley and hetero- 
geneous throng I have ever beheld. Turks, Greeks, Jews. 
Bedouins, noisy hawkers, filthy peasants, well-dressed gen- 
tlemen from the North, half naked lazzaroni, squalid beg- 
gars, and fantastically attired harlequins, are all mingled 
pell-mell in the most grotesque manner. . The lower classes 
of the natives m this city are filthy, boisterous and intrusive 
to the last degree. It is with the greatest difficulty they can 
be kept at a respectful distance. Crowds of beggars and 
scarcely less pertinacious hawkers beset the stranger with the 
most annoying obstinacy, and the perambulating boot blacks 
Av^ill attack you at eveiy step, and jostling each other for the 
job, will dab their wet brushes on your well polished boots, 
and then, v.^hen driven oil by absolute violence, will most im- 
pudently stretch- aut their hands and demand pay at the top of 
their voices. The only remedy I had to escape their intrusions 
was to use my cane most unceremoniously on their knuckles.. 
1 cannot at all make you sensible how much I was annoyed 
by these vile people, against whom even my Swiss soldier 
was unable to protect me, for he did not act under the au- 
thority of a uniform, being attired in a civil dress. In oui 
perambulations he met with a fellow soldier, also a Swiss, 
•ju his way home from Naples, having retired on a pension 
iiv consequence of the lo-^s of an eye. He was a weather- 



1^'OTES OF TRAVEX. ' IIS 

beaten veieran-looking fellow, dressed in a long gray fatigue 
««3oat, with a rakish blue military cap stuck on one side of his 
head, and an immense hanger suspended by a broad while 
belt to his side, and wore an enormous pair of grizzly mus- 
tachios. I must say I did not feel at iirst much flattered by 
the accession, of this new acquaintance. But I soon discov- 
ered that this escort was a sovereign means of protection 
.against all inti'usion, for a silent but commanding wave of 
the old soldier^s hand, and an authoritative squint of his one 
eye ivas tjuite sufficient to make those miscreants at once fall 
back and slink away like spaniels. 

How happy T should have been to have procured, you one 
oi the beautiful straw hats that are manufactured here in 
such perfection, but it was out of my povv^er to carry it. I. 
made a iew small purchases, and found that my Swiss was 
always able to beat them down at least one half. We here 
parted with the Dutch ladies, and Mr. Oxiiard, much to my 
regret, for they were most agreeable travelling companions. 
At 6 P. *jM. we set sail with a pretty stiff breeze in our teetii, 
which caused considera^ble motion in our boat, and, in com- 
bination with some previous indisposition, brought on a se- 
vere attack of sea-sickness. I went to bed early, but passed 
.an uncomfortable night. At 12 next day, 

7th, we anchored before Civita Vecchia. This, .althougli 
;the port of Rome, from which it is distant 47 miles, is a 
small dirty place, filled with beggars and lazzaroni. I had 
purchased two beautifial silk handkercliiefsat Leghorn, v/hich 
Mi a thoughtless moment I put into the back podiet of my coat, 
and 5v^as scarcely on the quai before I discovered that they 
were stolen. I was by no means sure that they were 
not piu:loined by the miserable ragged boatman who 
.brought me to shore. After remaining here long enough 
ito take in coal, we again weighed anchor and got un-^ 
•der way at 4 P. M. in a pretty rough sea. I found the mo- 
ttion on the Mediterranean much more insupportable than on 
.the Atlantic, owing to the shortness of the waves. 

8th. — I rose at 7 o'clock, and found that we were enter- 
pg the renowned and magnificent Bay of Naples ! Although 
£2.ot yet recovered from my sea-sickness, a feeling I kno.w 



114 NOTES or TKAVEt- 

you understand, from the repeated qiracnlities of tartar 
emetic you iiave been obliged Xo take, the grandeur of the 
enchanting scene disclosed to- my delighted senses, was suf^ 
ficient to rouse me from my Jorpid indiffprenee, and excite m 
me the most ecstatic feelings. Befo-re us mi the left, sweeps 
in graceful crescent form alcng the beach, the beautiful 
Cliiafa, a magnificent promenade, skirted by the enchant- 
ing Villa lieaie^ with its gravel walks and dark shade of 
live-oaks, and is abruptly terminated in the distance by the 
hill of Posilipo., clothed in all the rich luxriance of a South- 
ern climate. Immediately befo're us are the two stupendous 
Moles, extending far into the bay mi our right and left, with 
the Ught-house on one and the Castello delP Ovo ferched orr 
a high rock on tlie other. Between them runs the magnifi- 
cent street called Santa Lucia, flanked by a splendid row of 
towering edifices. Farther on, beyond the termination of 
the Toledo, are seen to great advantage the Arsenal, the 
Royal Palace and the beautiful fo>rt called the Castello Nuovo. 
Beyond the Great Mole on our right, is the main .harbour,, 
filled with shipping and hosts of gay gondolas. Still farther 
on to the right, the city extends in a graeefuUy curved line 
along the edge o-f the deep blue bay, until it terminates in. 
the country beyond, thickly studded with towns, villages^ 
palaces and villas delightfully reposing amid the dark green 
foliage of the most luxuriant vegetation that the imagination- 
can conceive. From the v/ater's edge the snow-white city 
rises in magnificent grandeur upon a high and steep moun- 
tain m the form of a pyramid, capped by the colossal castle 
of St. Elmo, whose imposing outline is delightfully drawn 
with surprising sharpness in the deep azure sky behind- 
Turning the looks Eastward with our backs to the city, we 
have to our left the great dark mass of Vestwius, sending up* 
it's never ceasing column of black smoke to heaven, and the 
pretty little island of Capri, terminating the long extended 
line of Cape Sorrento. On onr right reposes in beauteous, 
majesty on the placid waters of the bay, the elevated island 
of Ischia, clothed to its very top with the richest vegetation 
of this luxuriant climate, dotted v/ith gray ruins and whita 
villas. The beautiful little island of Procida almost connect* 



NOTES OP TRAVEL. 115 

the former with the main land. Could I convey to you but 
a feeble notion of the grandeur and magnificence of this scene, 
you might begin to appreciate the tumultuous delight of my 
feelings ! But my powers are infinitely too weak to approach 
ail adequate idea of that which language is too poor to de- 
scribe ! 

We debarked about 9 A, M., and by the recommendation 
of my Swiss soldier, I took lodgings at the Hotel fy Pension 
Suisse, for which I had frequent occasions to felicitate my- 
self. The situation of this house is convenient, opposite the 
exchange, and within a few paces of the Toledo. My cham- 
ber window enters upon a platform guarded by a railing;, 
from which I can look into the very jaws of Vesuvius, and 
see him belching forth smoke by day and fiames by night ; 
.for the column of smoke that constantly ascends appears lu- 
minous at night, at least at intervals. The hotel is kept by 
a Swiss family, and among my first felicities was the con- 
viction that I should not be coolly requested to eat as much 
dirt as in an Italian house, for these people are shockingly 
filthy. I here also made the acquaintance of many respecta- 
ble Germans and Swiss, both residents and travellers, "who 
gave me so much valuable information as completely to pro- 
tect me against the imposition of this vile people. And I 
can say what I am sure very few travellers can say, that! 
was not in a single instance outrageously imposed upon in 
Naples. 

After a dinner at the table d^hoie, I commenced my usual 
random excursion through the town. This city, called 
Napoli in Italian, is about 9 miles in circumference, and con- 
tains about 350,000 inhabitants. Its houses are immense 
gtone structures, often having flat roofs, and covered exter- 
nally with white stucco, which contrasts finely with the dark 
green foliage of the splendid trees with which the court-yards 
are planted, and which gives the city so enchanting an 
appearance from the bay. The majority of the streets are, 
extremely narrow, and most of them in the part of the city 
which lies on the hill, too steep to admit of being traversed 
by carriages, if even they had sufficient width. Many of tha 
liarrow streets in this quarter are paved in the form of low 



116 KOTES OP TRAVEL. 

wide steps, which are nevertheless mounted with great facil- 
ity by mules and jackasses, upon which and sedans, those 
Avho do not wish to walk have to depend. The Toledo, the 
great thoroughfare, is comparatively wide and well-paved, 
has narrow side^walks, and is lined on both sides with splen- 
did shops. It is the most constantly and densely crowded 
street I have yet met with in any city. The public buildines, 
although large, are in general by no means striking. Hav- 
ing been charged with some documents from our legation 
at the court of France to Gov, Throop, our Charge to this 
comitry, I went in search of him, but ascertained that he 
had removed to the country. J left them in the care of Mr. 
Hammet, our consul, whom I found exceedingly obliging. 
He kindly offered me a ticket of entrance to the secret cabi- 
net of the ^Museum, which is probably frequently overlooked 
by strangers ; a matter which I should have deeply regretted, 
as it exhibits the ancients in a peculiar, but by no means 
enviable point of view. In the evening I accompanied my 
friend Mr. ^lartins, a Prussian lawyer from Marianwerder, 
to the magnificent opera in the great theatre of San Carlo. 
This is the largest theatre in the world, and with the excep- 
tion of the Grand Scala at Milan, the most sumptuous. 
There are six tiers of boxes, decorated in good taste, and the 
pit will accommodate 674 persons seated and 150 standing. 
The stage is im-mense. The music was very fine and the 
scenes truly splendid. 

9th. — Mr. Martins and myself rose at an early hour, and 
resorted to the beach on the side of the Pllla Reale, to en- 
joy the luxuries of a sea-bath. There are hundreds of tem- 
porary bath-houses ranged along the edge of the bay, so con- 
structed as to admit of a full view of Mount Vesuvius, and 
of the whole of the magnificent scenery in its vicinity while 
bathing. After our bath, we took our breakfasts in the open 
air, under the thick cool shade of the live-oali^s of the Villa 
Reale, and then regaled ourselves with the soothing and ob- 
livious luxury of our German pipes, while enjoying the most 
grand and magnificent scene in the world ! Nothing I con- 
ceive could convey a more accurate idea of the Turkish Par- 
adise ! 



NOTES OF TRAVEL. 117 

Decidedly the most interesting object in the city of Naples 
is the Miiseo Borbonico. This is an immense building, con- 
taining eight or ten large galleries filled with the most curi- 
ous and interesting antiquities from Pompeii, Herculaneum, 
PoBStum, Stabiog, Nola, &c, &c. I there spent five hours to- 
day with the most intense delight. Besides an immense 
number of objects calculated merely to illustrate the habits 
and customs of the ancients, there is a rich collection of an- 
cient paintings, mosaics and statues, which are of the high- 
est order in point of art. I will not fatigue you with a dry 
catalogue of the objects found in this immense repository of 
antique curiosities, but will defer their description until I 
visit Pompeii, when I hope to make the account more inter- 
esting by indicating at the same time the exact position in 
which they were found. I have, as you may readily sup- 
pose, the most mtense desire to see this disentombed "city of 
the dead,'^ and although I am within eight miles of it, I think 
it better to suppress my longing curiosity, in order that I 
may, contrary to the advice of most travellers, first familiar- 
ize myself with the furniture, utensils and other objects that 
were found there. It seems to me that this plan is more 
analytical, if I may so say ; and you shall have the result 
of my experience of its advantages or disadvantages, for your 
guide when you visit these interesting scenes. 

After dinner and a siesta, (a nap) which is always taken 
in this country, Mr. Martins and myself took a hack, and 
drove several miles up the bay to some ruins called the 
School of Virgil, for what reason I do not know. Our road 
led along the Chiaja, the most fashionable drive and prome- 
nade of the city. Of this magnificent scene I can only say 
with Rogers : — 

''This region surely is not of the earth I 
Was it not dropt from heaven 1 — Not a grove, 
Citron, orpine, or cedar, not a grot, 
Sea-worn and mantled with the gadding vine, 
But breathes enchantment." 
It is here that all the gaiety, and wealth, and fashion of 
this splendid city resort to enjoy the delightful freshness of 
the sea-breeze, which comes stealing gently over the gulf s<> 



118 KOTES OF TBAVEL. 

soon as the long shadow of the mountain on which Naples is 
built touches its gently rippled azure waters. The delight- 
fully refreshing effects of this breeze upon a system jaded and 
relaxed, and exhausted by the intense rays of a vertical sun, 
are like the breathing of an atmosphere with a larger propor- 
tion of oxygen. All the sickening depression of body and 
mind are suddenly removed ; you feel an inward strength 
and vigor, and are again capacitated to enjoy. This drive 
extends more than a mile along the bay, and is divided intp 
three roads; the two exterior are designed for carriages, pas- 
sing up by one and returning by the other ; the wide central 
one is occupied by horsemen. Two dense rows of the most 
magnificent equipages, from the royal carriage whhits splen- 
did escort, to the calash and fonr of the scarcely less showy 
establishment of the wealthy Signore, circulate here several 
hours every evening. The carriages are generally open, and 
display the ladies in their rich dresses and easy positions, to 
great advantage. They are not generally what I should call 
beautiful, although they are far from being uninteresting. 
They have delicate complexions, black hair, large languish- 
ing eyes, long eye-lashes, regular features, and decidedly 
pretty mouths ; but their embonpoint is considerably great- 
er than would accord with the standard of the Venus de 
Medi'ci. The central road is crowded with well dressed 
horsemen, on finely caparisoned horses, while the spacious 
gravel-walks of the Villa Reale swarm with a gay crowd of 
pedestrians. The Neapolitan horses are among the most 
beautiful I have ever seen. They are generally studs, 
with beautiful long tails almost trailing on the ground, and 
the black colour seems commonly preferred. Their docility 
and gentleness, while moving along the choked up Toledo, 
constantly excited my greatest admiration. They really 
seemed perfectly sensible of the great danger of a single care- 
less step hi this donse crowd, and when it would become too 
thick, they would stop of their own accord until it was some- 
what more dispersed. So soon, however, as they would get 
upon the open street, leading to the Chiaja, they would 
prance and bear on their bits with a restive^ firmness that 
made them really appear dangerous. 



NOTES OP TRAVEL. 119 

The evenings are spent in the theatre and the coffee hou- 
ses, where immense quantities of ices are consumed. Their 
variety and deUcacy is much greater than wiih us, and they 
are very cheap. Thnir iced fruits are pecuUarly fine. 1 
found the iced tea, coffee and chocolate very palatable and 
refreshing. Smoking tobacco is also a luxury almost univer- 
sally indulged in, although their tobacco is very dear and of 
an inferior quality. I was at first very much struck by the 
singular custom of selhng two such heterogeneous articles as 
tobacco and salt at the same shop. But on inquiry, 1 found 
that both were government monopolies, and it was conveni- 
ent to have both articles included in the same license. There 
is an abundance of hot corn offered for sale in the streets, 
and eaten with great avidity by the natives. 

10th. — I rose at an early hour, took a long stroll through 
this most curious and interesting city, breakfasted, and again 
resorted to the museum, where I spent five more hours rev- 
elling with the most intense delight and curiosity in this 
immense repository of antiquities. I am totally unable to 
describe to you the pleasure and delightful excitement that 
its inspection produces upon me ! 

I have thus far suffered but little from the heat of the ch- 
mate, for every possible precaution is taken against its in- 
lluence. My thermometer has not risen above SO degrees 
in my room. To the narrowness of the streets as means of 
excluding the heat, I have already referred.- The houses 
are immense stone buildings, with very thick walls, covered 
with white stucco externally. The ceilings are lofty, and 
the floors are formed of glazed tiles and uncarpeted. The 
inhabitants are completely phlogophohicy for they immure- 
themselves in the innermost recesses of their immense hou- 
ses, in the dark, and cry out with as much impatience to 
their servants to close the doors in order to exclude the hot 
air, as we do in mid-winter to shut out the cold. The 
better houses are generally decorated with beautiful fres- 
cos, for which indeed there seems to be a passion with 
these people ; for the lowest cabaret must have at least a 
Venus or a Cupid in the centre of the ceiling. The tiled 
foors are often rich and elegant in the high^t degree^ 



120 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

resembling the most beautiful oil-cloths and expensive mosa- 
ics. So accurately are they frequently made to imitate the 
iinest specimens of mosaic, that I was often obliged to ex- 
amine them by the touch, before I could distinguish the 
imitation from the reality. The style of furnishing, in Na- 
ples, as far as I have seen, is pretty, without however pos- 
sessing the elegance that is found in Paris. The bedsteads 
are usually of iron, often of beautiful workmanship, and pret- 
tily japanned. No doubt this material is used to prevent the 
harbouring of insects, so common and abundant in this cli- 
mate. 

The whole city, a few of the principal streets excepted, is 
a complete work shop, for all kinds of trades and mechani- 
cal arts are carried on in the open streets. It is extremely 
curious for an American, accustomed as he is to our labour- 
saving machines and improved modes of working, to see 
the primitive and awkward manner in which many of these 
occupations are conducted. It was also a never-faiUng source 
of amusement to me, to loiter along the streets and observe 
hundreds of mechanical operations that were totally new to 
me, and which in other countries are conducted privately in 
shops. But the most peculiar, and to a stranger, oifensive 
objects in this city are the swarms of the Lazzaroni, a name 
probably derived from the word lazero, a beggar. Of this 
class there are said to be between 30 and 40 thousand in 
Naples, who live in the streets, and public places, without a 
shelter or a home, and subsist in the most precarious man- 
ner by acting as porters and messengers, and by begging and 
stealing. I am totally unable to convey to you an adequate 
idea of the wretched, squalid misery, nakedness and filth 
that surrounds one at every step. Tlie stranger has sound- 
ing in his ears from morning to night by crowds of these 
wretched creatures, the heart-sickening and distressing cry of 
^' a trifle for the love of God, to keep me from starviJig.'- 
The entire dress, of many, (if such filthy rags deserve tho 
name of dress,) consists of a pair of what once were panta- 
loons, torn off up to the knees or higher, and a vest, and all 
the rest of the body is unprotected. The females are scarcely 
better clad, and the children, until they arrive at the age of 



NOTES OF TRAVEL, I2l 

ibiir or five years, are as totally naked as they were bom. 
If you walk out early in the morning, you will find every 
little nook along the streets, as Avell as all the porticos of the 
churches, palaces, theatres and other public buildings lying 
full of these unfortunate beings, huddled together, men, wo- 
men and children. A lazzarone that can afford the luxury 
of a basket to sleep in, is of the higher order, and excites the 
envy of all his less fortunate neighbors. No doubt it is often 
even sneeringly stigmatized as an efleminate indulgence, and 
extravagance. This basket is some eight or ten inches deep, 
and just wide and long enough to contain the body, and the 
legs are left to extend beyond it, (more particularly per- 
haps when the poor fellow 'is dreaming of long glib strings 
of maccaroni) to the interference and annoyance of ped- 
estrians, who are passing along the narrow side-walks. 
In this case a kick or a good sharp blow with a cane will 
clear the way, and cause the poor wretch to gather up 
his naked limbs without the least manifestation of resis- 
tance. I have never seen human beings treated so much 
like dogs, nor could I ever have imagined such a state 
of degradation. A common scene about midday is to see 
groups of these filthy creatures huddled up in the shade of 
some high wall, maybe a church or a palace, intently em- 
ployed in freeing each other of vermin, with which they are 
wofully infested. Their chief food is maccaroni, which is 
boiled in large kettles in the streets, and served out to them 
with the hands on plates, from which they eat them or rath- 
er let them run down their throats, by seizing a long string 
at one end, and, holding them up at arm's-length, direct 
them into their out-spread jaws. Long rows of great kettles, 
filled with the most disgusting and dirty looking mixtures of 
vegetables and fruits, are also seen boiling in many parts of 
the city, for the use .of the lazzaroni. In passing along one 
of the public places this afternoon, I saw a large crowd of 
these wretched creatures collected m the shade, and feeling 
curious to ascertain the object, I made my way in among 
them. I found that they were purchasing scraps of cooked 
meat that had been collected from the hotels and, the kitchens 
of the rich, and vv as served out to them on pieces of paper 



NOTES Oy TRAVEL. 



dJ£ ZrL'!"" r "" '■" "" ^'"^•^- ' ''-« been ,00 wel! 
od, had I not held my nose and retreated immediatelv vl 

u • , "'^ "iiiiuieus, as soon as you sroD to hPQtmir ^ 

tur" wh. : "°PP'"?' '° ^""''^ miserable crea- 

.«^, uho see,Tted „,ore nnn.ed.ately at the point of fa Jst 

It seems perfectly conceded that the lazzaroni h-,,.. . 
dtsptttable right to every thing that is S ^ ^/bael' 

™y cane, when the thot.ght flashed on ntyLind th t I wal 



NOTES OF TRAVEL. IS.'? 

rascal escape with a few hard words, at which he very 
coolly shrugged his shoulders, and deliberately retired into 
one of the narrow streets. I then determined to pursue the 
same forbearance on all future occasions, and for this I had 
reason to felicitate myself, for a short time after an English- 
man met with the same adventure and struck the fellow, 
when a scuffle ensued and he was immediately surrounded 
by a number of accomplices, one of whom drew a knife and 
stabbed the gentleman near the eye, by which he lost his 
sight. You must never attempt to ask your way from any 
of these fellows, or you will be sure to be beset and followed 
by at least half a dozen of them, under pretence of directing 
you, notwithstanding every protestation you may make, and 
every one will demand a gratuity in the most pertinacious 
and boisterous manner. So you will find them to intermed- 
dle with every purchase and bargain that you attempt to 
make in the streets. If, for example, you go to hire a cab, 
you will at once be surrounded by a dozen of them, all in- 
terfering as may best suit their interests, and with a vehe- 
mence and boisterousnessthat in any other place than Naples 
would be taken for a regular row. As soon as your bar-^ 
gain is concluded with the cab-driver, which has always to 
be a clear and distinct negociation, (for this class of people 
are of the woy^'it kind every where, and perhaps a little loorst 
here) you will find one to seize upon the door and open it, 
another will let down the steps, a third will grab your cane» 
another your guide book, or whatever else you may have in 
your hand; several will catch you by the arms, another will 
hold up the skirts of your coat, and thus you will finally get 
seated, amid the deafening clamors of the whole gang to be 
paid for their services. This matter settled with great noise 
and dissatisfaction, for I never heard that any one had ever 
satisfied them, no matter what amount was given, three or 
four of these filthy ragged imps will jump on the box be- 
hind, in order to render you the same services in getting 
out. Thus you see then, one never rides without a due 
number of footmen in Naples. But, notwithstanding the 
degradation and destitution of the lazzaroni, they are a peace- 
able, good-natured, jovial set of fellows, whose hardships 



12 1 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

and4)rivations will all be swallowed up in a single plate of 
maccaroni and an exhibition of the antics of their favorite 
Punchinello, on the Largo del Castello, or a good tale b\ 
some humorous iniprovvisare on the Molo. 

Instead of taking the usual airing this evening on the Chi- 
aja, Mr. Martins and myself took a cab and drove up to the 
beautiful palace called Capodimonte. It is situated on an 
eminence just beyond the city, in one of the most enchanting 
spots in the world. The edifice is a large plain one, with 
nothing of peculiar interest about it ; but the prospect from it 
is magnificent, and the park is delightful. Returning, we pas- 
sed some Roman aqueducts in a tolerable state of preservation. 
After taking our ices and a cigar at the Caffe de V Europe. 
we went to the little theatre San Car lino, where we witnessed 
some very good playing at a moderate price. Tlie house 
was crowded by a mixed audience, that behaved with great 
decorum. This is one of those theatres that are opened twice 
in twenty-four hours, in the afternoon and evening. 

11 TH. — This is Sunday, and I have remained in my room 
nearly all day, except this evening, when I walked out to 
enjoy the sea-breeze. The shops were generally closed to- 
day, and all classes of people quite at leisure. My friend. 
Mr. Martins left me this morning, and I was for the first time 
called upon to perform the continental salutation of kissing 
on both cheeks. Notwithstanding that I had become famil- 
iar with this custom by having very frequently witnessed it. 
yet I cannot tell you the odd, awkward feeling it produced 
in me when I came to be one of the actors. The courage 
requisite to encounter v/ith your face a bristly mustachio and 
unshaven beard is truly incredible ; and how these gentle- 
men ever find ladies stout enough for the task, (if they ever 
do) is totally beyond my conception. Certain it is, that in 
public, the ladies revolt as much from this jencontre, as 
tliey would from being caught eating fat bacon ; for the gen- 
tlemen are obliged to take their beards into one hand, and 
then are permitted to kiss them on the forehead only. 

12th. — I rose at 7, and made my breakfast on a cup of 
hfit de pouky with some bread without butter, for this is 
a luxury scarcely found in Italy, and when met with is shock- 



NOTES OF TRAVEL. 125 

ingly bad. Olive oil is substituted in almost all cases where 
we use butter, and is often even eaten with bread. All 
kinds of vegetables and fruits are very abundant and cheap 
here. The water-melons of this country are peculiarly fine. 
After strolling about the city until nine o'clock, I went again 
to the Museo Borbonico, where I spent five hours more with 
undiminished interest. In the evening I resorted to my fa- 
vorite spot, the Chiaja, and promenaded through the differ- 
ent avenues of the Villa Riale, surrounded by the elite of 
this fashionable and wealthy city, and all that is grand in 
nature and beautiful in art, while enjoying the delicious ef- 
fects of the cool and bracing sea-breeze. It is in scenes like 
these that my thoughts often travel beyond the seas, and 
ardently desire the presence of those that are far from me! 

13th. — This morning, after a breakfast at the Caife de 
I'Europe, I went in search of Dr. Guesone, to whom I had 
a letter from Prof. Richard of Paris. He resides in the neigh- 
bourhood of the castle of St. Elmo, and I had no small diffi- 
culty in finding him. I was surprised, however, that even 
in this part of the city there were few shops in which I did 
not find some one who spoke French enough to give me the 
requisite directions. I always found the Italians most kind 
and obliging to strangers, and always ready to give you 
every information requested. The doctor resides in a most 
charming situation in the midst of a delightful grove of orange 
trees, fig trees, palm trees and vines, and has a beautiful 
terrace which commands a magnificent view of Vesuvius, 
the bay and the city. He received me with the unaf- 
fected frankness and kindness of a man of science and refine- 
ment, and off"ered me every facility in his power to see what 
was to be seen. 

After due preparation by a substantial dinner. I set out at 
1 o'clock in company with Mr. Brohst from Leipsig, and 
Mr. Marouse from Belgium, to visit the crater of Mount 
Vesuvius, We proceeded to Portici on the railroad, a dist- 
ance of about five miles, and then walked a mile and a ha.lf 
to Resina, at ibe foot of the mountaiti. Owe would as soon 
think of going to Strasbourg witliout eating '^pate defoigj^cis,"' 
or to Bologna without eating sausages, as to ascend Mount 

10 



126 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

Vesuvius without drinking Hachryma ChristV^ It is how- 
ever, usual to take this celebrated wine at the Hermitage, 
where any truck is palmed upon strangers, for which they 
are made to pay at least a triple price. The knowledge of our 
good friend Mr. Brobst, protected us here, as well as on ma- 
ny other occasions, against both kinds of imposition. He led 
us to a vintner of his acquaintance in Resina, who makes the 
wine from the fruit of his own vineyard ; and here in the re* 
freshing shade of the vine itself, whose delicious juice we 
were quaffing, we regaled ourselves with several bottles of 
this luscious wine, besides a bottle or two of pure, unadulte- 
rated Muscat. We also supplied ourselves with several bot- 
tles to be used on the way. As regards myself, I infinitely 
prefer the Muscat ; the lachryma Christi is too sweet and 
rich for my taste. We next applied for horses or mules, and 
guides, when we were immediately surrounded by several 
dozen ragged, bandit-looking fellows with a dozen or more 
of the sorriest beasts of all varieties, with trappings to match, 
x\s I had put myself entirely under the care of Mr. B. I re- 
mained a silent observer of the odd scene before me. Here 
we stood in the middle of the main steet of the town, sur- 
rounded by the whole host of these miserable, filthy, half- 
clad rascalions, with their wretched, spavined, blind and 
superannuated beasts, each one jostling the other and bawling 
at the top of his voice, and trying to thrust his beast under 
our notice by hauling, pushing, driving or wringing his tail. 
If they could by any means barely catch the eye of any one 
of us, they would mount their crippled animals, and lay on 
them right and left with their heavy clubs, crying with all 
their strength to the rest to clear the way in order that they 
might show off their speed. Thus they would ride out a 
distance, looking back occasionally to see whether their 
performance was attracting our attention, and if it was 
not they would again return to the crowd and endeavor anew 
to bring their beasts to notice. In the midst of this scene 
of boisterous tumult and uproar, stood Mr. Brobst as cool as 
a Mohawk, a stout, broad-shouldered, athletic man, in a 
coarse travelling garb and great cudgel in liis hand, who 
was able to throw his strongly marked features into the most 



KOTES OP TRAVEL. 127 

fTightful expression, and raise his sten;torian voice far 
above the tremendous clamour of the crowd. Close by 
stood the Belgian, whose French irritability would every 
now and then be taxed beyond all forbearance, and he would 
hiss through his cleriched teeth ''•quels diahte de betes,^^ 

At length Mr. B. made choice of, three ponies and three 
guides, and after having made a distinct contract with them, 
we mounted and set out, but not without being followed by 
a number of noisy fellows offering their services, to whom 
we paid no kind of attention-, and they soon left us. We 
continued to ascend for about two hoiirs by a pretty rough 
and steep made-path, through plantations of fig-trees, mul- 
berry-trees, and the most luxuriant vineyards, until we arrived 
at the platform from Avhich the crater rises. Here culti- 
vation ceases entirely, except around the Hermitage, where 
are a number of shade-trees. The Hermitage is a small 
building situated on the edge of the platform, and kept as a 
place of entertainment for strangers who visit the mountain. 
We found a number of soldiers, who are placed here by the 
government as a protection to visitors. From the Hermitage 
to the base of the cone is about half a mile, over a good level 
road. Nothing can exceed the dreary desolation of this part 
of the mountain. The whole platform is studded with great 
blocks of black lava thrown together in the most frightful 
disorder, or covered with the black ashes and cinders that 
have from tiane to time been cast from the crater. On the 
left, stretches the long black line of the elevation ealled the 
Somma, in a crescent form, and terminates abruptly near the 
cone, from which it is divided by a deep ravine. This whole 
mass appears like an extinct Volcano, black and drear^^, 
without a tree or a shrub to relieve the desolate aspect. Di- 
rectly in front, and at the Northern exitremity of the platform, 
rises the cone to a great height in the form 'of a sugar-loaf, 
from whose top ascends a never ceasing column of black 
smoke. It is composed of immense blocks of lava, loosely 
piled upon each other, and the same kind of dark gray ashes 
and black cinders that are found on the plain. The profound 
silence that reigns in this region of desolation, and the manl- 
iest evidences of the mighty power that has been exerted 'm 



128 UOTES OF TRATEL, 

its production, impresses the mind with an awe that is tiniqne 
and entirely indescribable ! As we passed by the guard, seve- 
ral of the soldiers immediately took up their muskets and fol- 
lowed us to the base of the cone, where, after we had dis- 
mounted, they took charge of our horses. 

We now commenced the principal ascent over the disjoin- 
ted, sharp and angular blocks of lava, sometimes stepping 
from one to the other, whh no small danger of falling into 
the crevices ; at others, surmounting larger blocks by the best 
efforts we could exert both with our hands as well as our 
feet. In these greater difSculties, the guides would precede 
us and let us lay hold of one end of the bridle reins which 
they took from their horses and carried with them for that 
purpose. But as the performance of this duty was not in the 
contract, they of course subsequently loudly demanded pay 
for it. The cone rises from the plain at an angle of 25 to 2S 
degrees, which makes this ascent, particularly under an Ital- 
ian sun, and with the incredible radiation of caloric from its 
black surface, an enterprise of excessive fatigue. 

After a most laborious scramble of nearly two hours, wc 
stood, nearly exhausted, bathed in sweat and blackened with 
cinders, on the edge of the frightful abyss of the crater ! 
This horrible gulph is more than half a mile in diameter, and 
its depth has been variously estimated from eight or nine 
hundred to two thousand feet. I should suppose that the 
former estimate is nearer the truth. It has the form of an 
inverted cone, whose sides are formed of ashes more or less 
consolidated and interspersed with blocks of lava. Its point 
terminates in the fiery abyss whose profundity has never 
been fathomed by mortals, and whose diameter is perhaps 
fifty feet, whence issues a black smoke strongly charged with 
sulphurous and chlorine vapours. From every minute to 
every minute and a half, an explosion takes place, when the 
flames are distinctly seen, and a blacker and more frightful 
discharge of smoke is perceived. The edge of the crater is 
composed of rather loose ashes, intermixed with large quan- 
tities of sulphur, which in many places is still in a viscid state 
from the heat. It is full of crevices from which smoke issues 
in more or less abundance ; and if the ashes are removed 



NOTES OF TRAVEL. 129 

from those particular spots the heat is sufficient to poach eggs 
in a few minutes. The width of the edge varies from two to 
j&fteen or twenty feet, so that a passage along the narrowest 
parts is truly hazardous, and it required all the courage I 
could summon, to make it. Between the awful fiery gulph 
on one side, and the steep descent of the cone on the other, 
particularly on the side of the Campana where there is not 
a solitary object to break the sight of the tremendous depth, 
my head reeled with an alarming vertigo. I made out, how- 
ever, to follow our friend Mr. Brobst, and we made the whole 
circuit in safety. 

Mr. Marouse, our Belgian companion, was determined to 
explore the interior of the crater, an exploit which I viewed 
as a kind of fool-hardiness in which I was by no means wil- 
ling to embark. He had some difficulty in inducing the 
guides to descend, on account of the unsteadiness of the wind. 
There is but one side on which the descent is at all practica- 
ble, and that only when the wind blows from that direction 
and carries the suffocating sulphurous vapors in the opposite 
course. To-day the wind was variable, and the undertak- 
ing consequently very hazardous. By largely bribing the 
guides, however, two of thera consented to accompany him. 
After we had made the circuit of the crater we found that 
they had not yet returned, and we began to feelsome appre- 
hensions for their safety, particularly as the wind frequently 
carried the black column of smoke over the side on which 
they had gone down. We called repeatedly, and after a 
long while we heard the voice of Mr. M. from a great depth 
^'nous voila en bas/' "here we are below.^' Finally they 
reached the top, but in a most laughable condition ; black as 
colliers, bathed in perspiration, and their faces striped by the 
course the sweat-drops had taken. Mr. Marouse absolutely 
had his hair singed by the fire. Being determined to look 
into the fiery gulph, he took hold of one end of the bridle- 
rein, while the guides held the other, and thus ventured out 
upon a block of lava that overhung the abyss. While in this 
position a strong explosion occurred, which drove the flame 
in his face. After we had emptied several bottles of lachryma 
Christi, which we brought with us, I stretched myself on 



130 KOTES OF TRAVEL. 

the hardened ashes on the brink of the crater, in such a po- 
sition as to look into the very jaws of the volcano over my 
left shoulder,, while I witnessed before me the sun set in all 
its majesty and grandeur over the city of Naples ! I am to- 
tally unable to describe to you the sublimity of this sight ! 
This moment is an epoch in my life I ! 

After remaining long enough above to see the sublimity 
of the volcano by night, we commenced our descent over a 
part of the cone composed exclusively of loose ashes. This 
was performed with great rapidity and ease, but not with- 
out our being excessively soiled by the black dust into which 
we were obliged to wade at^ least half knee-deep ; and which 
wasso uncertain under our feet that we not unfrequently tum- 
bled headlong mto it. Happily it was night when we arrived 
on the platform, and we were unable to see each other's sad 
plight ; or rather unhappily for the exercise of our bumps of 
mirthfulness ; for the mere idea that we all looked like Mr. 
Marouse when he came out of the crater, was enough to 
excite my risibility to the last degree. 

We here remounted our horses, paid the guard a trifle, 
and commenced our descent towards Resina, where another 
scene of great tumult arose from the extra demands made by 
oiu" guides. Thanks to the horrific countenance that our 
friend Brobst was able to assume, the matter was soon ac- 
commodated by his 7iot yielding to their impositions, and we 
jumped into a hack, and arrived in Naples about 11 o'clock. 
After making om' toilettes, of which no colliers ever stood 
more in need, we resorted to the Caffe de PEurope, and or- 
dered a supper, to which, as you may suppose, we did full 
justice. Ices and segars terminated the events of the day, 
and I retired much fatigued, but spent an uncomfortable 
night dreaming of suffocating vapours, volcanos and earth- 
quakes. I found next morning that my gingham roundabout 
of the fastest colours was completely bleached by the chlorine, 
wherever a drop of wine had fallen upon it. 

14th. — After a late breakfast, I called on Prof. Tcnore, to 
whom I had a letter, and then prepared to set out on an ex- 
cursion to Baise with my friends Messrs. Brobst and Marouse. 
We met on the Largo del Castello, and after the fracas of 



NOTES OP TRAVEL. 131 

hiring a hack, we took our seats, attended as usual by sev- 
eral ragged lazzaroni, who mounted on behind pur carriage. 
We left the Chiaja by the Strada de Piedigrotto, which 
leads through the Grotto of Posilipo. This grotto is a mag- 
nificent tunnel, that passes through a solid rock under the 
hill of Posilipo, and proves how early the art of tunneling 
was understood, for the period of its construction "runneth 
beyond the memory of man." Just before entering the Grot- 
to, on the left, in a most charming spot are shown the ruins 
of VirgiVs Tomb. The Grotto itself is a surprising monu- 
ment of the skill of the ancients. It is upwards of two thous- 
and feet long, twenty-two in width, and in some places 
ninety feet high. About its centre are two immense funnels 
cut through the roof, to admit light and air, and the inter- 
vening parts are lighted up by lamps suspended from the ceil- 
ing, which are kept burning day and night. 

On emerging from the grotto we found ourselves again on 
the borders of the bay, and near the island of Nisida, on 
which is situated the Lazaretto. This island was formerly 
called Nesis, where Brutus had a villa. Pursuing our road 
along the bay, we soon arrived at Pozzuoli, formerly called 
Puteoli, where St. Paul disembarked after his perilous voy- 
age from the East, "and where," the account says, ^we found 
brethren and were desired to tarry with them seven days, 
and so we went toward Rome." This place has undoubtedly 
undergone very great changes since that day, but there are 
still many ruins here dating from before that period, and part 
of the ancient pavement still remains. It was impossible for 
me to resist the reverential feeling that I was treading upon 
the very flag-stones once trod by the great Apostla of the Gen- 
tiles, and that his shadow was cast upon the very columns 
now before me ! The cathedral here was once a temple dedi- 
cated to Augustus, and is built of hewn stones joined togeth- 
er without cement. On the principal piazza is a beautiful 
pedestal in white marble, decorated with fine basso-relievos, 
and an ancient statue with the inscription " Q. Flavio Mario 
Agnatio Lalliono.^^ Not far distant are the magnificent ru- 
ins of the temple of Jupiter Serapis in white marble. The 
shafts of three of the columns are composed of single pieces of 

10^ 



132 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

cepallino, a kind of beautiful green marble with white zones. 
Their lower part, to the height of six or seven feet, is singu- 
larly worn as if by the action of water. The centre of the 
temple if an elevated platform of a circular shape, approach- 
ed by four graad Hights of marble steps, and the pavement 
is of beautiful marbles. In the lower part of the edifice are 
a number of small apartments, which it is supposed served 
as baths for the sick and infirm. This supposition is strength- 
ened by the facility wilh which water conJd be inliodticed 
into the temple ; indeed, even at present, the lower pave- 
ment is covered b}'" it to some depth. 

After gratifying our curiosity with aJl that we considered 
worthy of alteDtion heie, we look a boat io cross the gulf. 
Here we observed the ruins of a most giga'^tic piece of work, 
supposed to have been a mole consiiucied at a veiy eaily date. 
Some of the pi'lais a^e stiJl seen above ibe level of the 
water, and are said to be joined togeiber by ihat pecLiliar hy- 
draulic cement, for a long time 1 nown at home under the name 
of Roman Cement. We passed on our right Monte Nuovo, 
an elevated island containing four or five acves, which sprang 
up in thirty-six houis in 1538 by a volcanic explosion. Be- 
yond this island we disen)brvked. Close by is the lake of 
Jlvernus, the Taviams of Yi«gi], a small sheet of limpid wa- 
ter surrounded by beautiful banks covered by a luxuriant 
vegetation. If it was ever so noxious as to contain no fish, 
or that birds were destroyed by ventn ing over it, it has cer- 
tainly changed very much ; for ibey now ti averse it in every 
direction, and it is said to contaia an abundance offish. On 
the banks of this lake is the Giotio of ibe Cumcean Sybil, a 
dark subterranean cavern, which has to be exploied by torch- 
hght. But as I have a particular dislike to going under 
ground before my time, the guides lost their fees by my 
refusal to follow them. 

We now re-embarked, and passed over to another part of 
the bay to visit Nero's Villa, in which are natural vapor 
baths of a high temperature. Farther on are some more hot 
baths and the ruins of Caesar's Villa. In Baiae itself are n^a- 
ny ruins of great interest. The temple of Venus Genitrix 
is a beautiful ruin. It was built of white marble, externally 



NOTES OF TRAVEL. 133 

of an octagonal shape, and internally round. The temple of 
Mercury is an elegant structure, in an excellent state of pres- 
ervation. It is a circular edifice without windows, and light- 
ed from an aperture in its dome. The temple of Diana Bai- 
ana is near the former, but is very much dilapidated. 

We again embarked on board of our boat, and finished the 
northern circuit of the gulf to Cape Misenum, passing many 
ruins which we had not time to examine. Under this cape 
was the town of Misenum and a harbour of the same name, 
which contained the Roman fleet commanded by Pliny the 
elder at the time of that great and destructive eruption of 
Vesuvius, which buried Herculaneum, Pompeii and Stabiae, 
and proved fatal to himself. We returned to Pozzuoli, en- 
joyed a mess of excellent maccaroni, and arrived in Naples 
before night. 

15th. — I rose at an early hour, and went to the Cafl^'e de 
PEurope to meet my Belgian friend Mr. Marouse, with whom 
I had agreed to make an excursion to Pompeii. After our 
breakfast we set out to the Strada di Ferro, (the rail-road) 
by which we were carried as far as Torre del Greco, about 
nine miles from the city. From here we went on foot through 
Torre della Nunziata over a very dusty road to Pompeii, a 
distance of about three miles. This part of the road affords 
a magnificent view of Mount Vesuvius. , Our approach 
to the city will be through the suburb anciently called Pa- 
gus Augustus Felix, built on each side of the Via Domiti- 
ana, and flanked with double rows of tombs up to the Her- 
culaneum Gate. But here is a delightful little canal of cool 
limpid water, shaded with vines and mulberry trees, the in- 
vitation of whose gentle ripple is irresistible after our hot and 
dusty walk. Let us then indulge in its refreshing draughts 
and grateful shade while we read over the graphic account 
of the subversion of this long lost city, in two letters written 
to Tacitus by Pliny the younger, who was an eye-witness. 
The horrible catastrophe took place on the 25th of August^ 
A. D. 79. • 



134 yOTES OP TRAVEL. 

Letters of Pliny the younger to Tacitus, coyitaining an 
account of the destruction of Pompeii. 

"Your request that I would send you an account of my 
uncle's death, in order to transmit a more exact relation of 
it to posterity, deserves my acknowledgements ; for, if this 
accident shall be celebrated by your pen, the glory of it, I 
am well assured, will be rendered for ever illustrious. And 
notwithstanding he perished by a misfortune, which as it in- 
volved at the same time a most beautiful country in ruins, 
and destroyed so many populous cities, seems to promise him 
an everlasting remembrance ; notwithstanding he has him- 
self composed many and lasting works ; yet I am persuaded 
the mentioning of him in your immortal works will greatly 
contribute to eternize his name. Happy I esteem those to 
be, whom Providence has distinguished with the abilities 
either of doing such actions as are worthy of being related, 
or of relating them in a manner worthy of being read ; but 
doubly happy are they who are blessed with both these un- 
common talents ; in the number of which my uncle, as his 
own writings and your history will evidently prove, may 
justly be ranked. It is with extreme willingness, therefore, 
I execute your commands, and should indeed have claimed 
the task, if you had not enjoined it. He was at that time 
with the fleet under his command at Misenum. On the 24th 
of August, about one in the afternoon, my mother desired 
him to observe a cloud which appeared of a very unusual 
size and shape. He had just returned from taking the bene- 
fit of the sun* and after bathing himself in cold water, and 
taking a slight repast, was retired to his study. He immedi- 
ately arose and went out upon an eminence, from whence he 
might more distinctly view this very uncommon appearance. 
It was not at that distance discernible from what mountain 
this cloud issued, but it was found afterwards to ascend from 
Mount Vesuvius.! I cannot give a more exact description of 



*The Romans used to lie or walk naked in the sun, after anointing their 
bodies with oil, which was esteemed as greatly contribuiing to health, 
and therefore daily practised by them, 

f About 12 miles distant from Naples. Martial has a pretty epigram, 
in which he gives us a view of Vesuvius, as it appeared before this terri- 
ble conflagration broke out : 

♦*Here verdant vines o'erspread Vesuvius' eides : 
The qenerous grape here pour'd her purple tides. 
This Bacchus lov'd beyond his native scene : 
Here dancing satyrs jny'd to trip the green. 



VOTES OP TRAVITL. 155 

its figure, than by i^sembling it to that of a pine-tree, for it shot 
up a great height in the form of a trunk,which extended itself at 
the top into a sort of branches ; occasioned, I imagine, either 
by a sudden gust of air that impelled it, the force of which 
decreased as it advanced upwards, or the cloud itself being 
pressed back again by its own weight, expanded in this man- 
ner : it appeared sometimes bright and sometimes dark and 
spotted, as it was more or less impregnated with earth and 
cinders. This extraordinary phenemenon excited my uncle's- 
philosophical curiosity to take a nearer view of it. He ord-^ 
ered a light vessel to be got ready, and gave me the liberty, 
if I thought proper, to attend him. I rather chose to contin- 
ue my studies ; for, as it happened, he had given me an em- 
ployment of that kind. As he was coming out of the house, 
he received a note- from Rectina, the wife of Bassus, who 
was in the utmost alarm at the imminent danger which thr^t- 
ened her ; for her vilia being situated at the foot of Mount 
Vesuvius, there was no way to escape but by sea : she earn- 
estly entreated him, therefore, to come to her assistance. He 
accordingly changed his first design, and what he began with 
a philosophical, he pursued with a heroic turn of mind. He 
ordered the gallies to put to sea, and went himself on board 
with an intention of assisting not only Rectina, but several 
others ; for the villas stand extremely thick upon that beau- 
tiful coast. When hastening to the place from whence others 
fled with the utmost terror, he steered his direct course to the 
point of danger, and with so much calmness and presence of 
mind, as to be able to make and dictate his observations 
upon the motion and figure of that dreadful scene. He was 
now so nigh the mountain, that the cinders, which grew 
thicker and hotter the nearer he approached, fell into the 
ships, together with pumice-stones, and black pieces of burn- 
ing rock : they were likewise in danger, not only of being 
aground by the sudden retreat of the sea : but also from the 
vast fragments which rolled down from the mountain, and 
obstructed all the shore. Here he stopped to consider 
whether he should return ; to which the pilot advising 
him, ^Fortune,' said he, 'befriends the brave ; carry me ta 
Pomponianus.' Pomponianus was then at Stabiae,:}: separa- 



Far more than Sparta this in Venus' grace : 
And great Alcides once renown'd the place : 
Now flaming embers spread dire waste around, 
^ And Gods regret that Gods can thus confound." 
:^Now called Castel a Mare di Stabia, in the gulf of Naples, 



136 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

ted by a gulf, which the sea, after several* insensible wind- 
ings, forms upon the shore. He had already sent his bag- 
gage on board ; for though he was not at that time in actual 
danger, yet being within the view of it, and, indeed, ex- 
tremely near, if it should in the least increase, he was deter- 
mined to put to sea as soon as the wind should change. It 
was favorable, however, for carrying my uncle to Pomponi- 
anus, whom he found in the greatest consternation : he em- 
braced him with tenderness, encouraging and exhorting him 
to keep up his spirits, and the more to dissipate his fears, he 
ordered with an air of unconcern the baths to be got ready ^ 
when, after having bathed, he sat down to supper with great 
cheerfulness, or at least (what is equally heroic) with all the 
appearance of it. In the meanwhile, the eruption from 
Mount Vesuvius flamed out in several places with much vi- 
olence, which the darkness of the night contributed to render 
stil^more visible and dreadful. But my uncle in order to 
soothe the apprehensions of his friend, assured him that it 
was only the burning of the villages, which the country peo- 
ple had abandoned to the flames : after this he retired to rest, 
and it is most certain he was so little discomposed as to fall 
into a deep sleep ; for being pretty fat, and breathing hard, 
those who attended vvithout actually heard him snore. The 
court which led to his apartment being now almost filled 
with stones and ashes, if he had continued there any time 
longer, it would have been impossible for him to have made 
his way out; it was thought proper, therefore, to awaken 
him. He got up, and went to Pomponianus and the rest of 
his company, who were not unconcerned enough to think of 
going to bed. They consulted together Avhether it would be 
most prudent to trust to the houses, which now shook from 
side to side wuh frequent and violent concussions ; or fly to the 
open fields, where the calcined stones and cinders, though light 
indeed, yet fell in large showers, and threatened destruction. 
In this distress they resolved for the fields, as the less danger- 
ous situation of the two; a resolution which, while the rest 
of the company were hurried into by their fears, my uncle 
embraced upon cool and deliberate consideration. They 
went out then, having pillows tied upon their heads with 
napkins, and this was their whole defence against the storm 
of stones that fell around them. It was now day every 
where else, but there a deeper darkness prevailed than in 
the most obscure night ; which, however, was in some de- 
gree dissipated by torches and other lights of various. kinds. 
They thought proper to go down farther upon the shore, to 



NOTES OF TRAVEL. 137 

observe if they might safely put out to sea; but they found 
the waves still run extremely high and boisterous. There 
my uncle, having drunk a draught or two of cold water, 
threw himself down upon the cloth which was spread for 
him, when immediately the flames, and a strong smell of 
sulphur, which was the forerunner of them, dispersed the 
rest of the company, and obliged him to rise. He raised 
himself up with the assistance of two of his servants, and in- 
stantly fell down dead ; suffocated, as I conjectured, by some 
gross and noxious vapour, having always had weak lungs, 
and being frequently subject to a difficulty of breathing. 
As soon as it was light again, which was not till the third 
day after this melancholy accident, his body was found en- 
tire, and wimout any marks of violence upon it, exactly in 
the same posture that he fell, and looking more like a man 
asleep than dead. During all this time my mother and I, 
who were at Misenum* — But as this has no connection with 
your history, so your inquiry went no farther than concern- 
ing my uncle's death ; with that, therefore, I will put an end 
to my letter: suffer me only to add, that I have faithfully 
related to you what I was either an eye-witness of myself, 
or conceived immediately after the accident happened, and 
before there was time to vary the truth. You will choose 
out of this narrative such circumstances as shall be most sui- 
table to your purpose ; for there is a great difference between 
what is proper for a letter and a history ; between writing 
to a friend, and writing to the public. Farewell !-''t 

"The letter which, in compliance with' your request, I 
wrote to you concerning the death of my uncle, has raised, 
it seems, your curiosity to know what terrors and dangers 
attended me while I continued at Misenum ; for there, I 
think, the account in my former broke off. 

"Though my shocked soul recoils, m}^ tongue shall tell.":j: 

"My uncle having left us, I pursued the studies which pre- 
vented my going with him, till it was time to bathe. After 
which I went to supper, and from thence to bed, where my 
sleep was greatly broken and disturbed. There had been, 
for many days before, some shocks of an earthquake, which 
the less surprised us as they are extremely frequent in Cam- 
pania •, but they were so particularly^ violent that night, that 
they not only shook everything about us, but seemed indeed 



*See this account continued, in the followinsj Letter. 
j-Pliny's Letters, Melinoth's Translation, vi, 16. 
tVirgil, book ii. 



138 NOTES OP TRAVEL. 

to threaten destruction. My mother flew to my chamber, 
where she found me rismg in order to awaken her. We 
went out into a small court belonging to the house, which sep- 
arated the sea from the buildings. As I was at that time but 
eighteen years of age, I know not whether I should call my 
behavior, in this dangerous juncture, courage or rashness ; 
but I took up Livy, and amused myself with turning over that 
author, and even making extracts from him, as if all about 
me had been in full security. While we were in this posture, 
a friend of my uncle's, who was just come from Spain to pay 
him a visit, joined us ; and observing me sitting by my moth- 
er with a book in my hand, greatly condemned her calmness, 
at the same time that he reproved me for my careless securi- 
ty. Nevertheless, I still went on with my authof . Though it 
was now morning, the light was exceedingly faint and lan- 
guid; the buildings all around us tottered, and though we 
stood upon open ground, yet, as the place was narrow and 
confined, there was no remaining without certain and great 
danger ; we therefore resolved to quit the town. The people 
followed us in the utmost consternation, and, as to a mind 
distracted Avith terror, every suggestion seems more prudent 
than its own, pressed in great crowds about us in our way 
out. Being got at convenient distance from the houses, we 
stood still, in the midst of a most dangerous and dreadful scene. 
The chariots which we had ordered to be drawn out, were so 
agitated backwards and forwards, though upon the most level 
ground, that we could not keep them steady, even by sup- 
porting them with large stones. The sea seemed to roll back 
upon itself, and to be driven from its banks by the convulsive 
motion of the earth ; it is certain at least the shore was con- 
siderably enlarged, and several sea animals were left upon it. 
On the other side a black and dreadful cloud, bursting with an 
igneous serpentine vapour, darted out a long train of fire, re- 
sembling flashes of lightning, but much larger. Upon this 
our Spanish friend, whom I mentioned above, addressing him- 
self to my mother and me with great warmth and earnest- 
ness : 'If your brother and your uncle/ said he, *is safe, he 
certainly wishes 3^ou may be so too ; but if he perished, it 
was his desire, no doubt, that you might both survive him : 
why, therefore, do you delay your escape for a moment?' — 
We could never think of our own safety, we said, while we 
were uncertain of his. Hereupon our friend left us, and 
withdrew from the danger with the utmost precipitation. 
Soon afterwards the cloud seemed to descend, and cover the 



KOTES OP TRAVEL. 13^ 

whole ocean ; as indeed it entirely hid the Island of Caprae * 
and the promontory of Misenum. My mother strongly con^ 
jured me to make my escape at any rate, which^ as I was 
young, I might easily do : as for herself, she said, her age and 
corpulency rendered all attempts of that sort impossible. 
However, she would willingly meet death, if she could have 
the satisfaction of seeing that she was not the occasion of 
mine. But I absolutely refused to leave her, and taking her 
by the hand, I led her on; she compHed with great reluc- 
tance, and not without many reproaches to herself, for retard- 
ing my flight. The ashes now began to fall upon us, though 
in no great quantity. I turned my head and observed be- 
hind us a thick smoke, which came rolling after ushke a tar- 
rent. I proposed, while we had yet any light, to turn out of 
the high road, lest we should be pressed to death in the dark 
by the crowd that followed us. We had scarce stepped out 
of the path, when darkness overspread us, not like that of a 
cloudy night, or when there is no moon, but of a room when 
it is shut up and all the lights extinct. Nothing then was to 
be heard but the shrieks of women, the screams of children, 
and the cries of men ; some calling for their children, others 
for their parents, others for their husbands, and only distin* 
guishing each other by their voices ; one lamenting his own 
fate, another that of his family ; some wishing to die from 
the very fear of dying ; some lifting their hands to the Gods ; 
but the greater part imagining that the last and eternal night 
was come, which was to destroy the Gods and the world to- 
gether.! Among these were some who augmented the real 
terrors by hnaginary ones, and made the frightened multi- 
tude falsely believe that Misenum was actually in flames, 
At length a glimmering light appeared, v/hich we imagined 
to be rather the forerunner of an approaching burst of flames, 
as in truth it was, than the return of day. However the fire 
fell at a distance from us : then again we were immersed in 
thick darkness, and a heavy shower of ashes rained upon us, 
which we were every now and then obliged to shake off", oth- 
erwise we should have been crushed and buried in the heap. 
I. might boast that, during all this scene of horror, not a sigh 
or expression of fear escaped from me, had not my support 

♦An Island twenty miles from Naples, now called Capri. 

fThe Stoic and Epicurean Philosophers held, that the world was to be 
destroyed by fire, and things fall again into original chaos ; not excepiincr 
€ven the national Gods themselves from the destruction of this general 
«onflao ration. 



140 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

been founded in thai miserable though strong consolation — 
that all mankind were involved in the same calamity, and 
that I imagined I was perishing whh the world itself! At 
last this dreadful darkness was dissipated by degrees, like a 
cloud of smoke ; the real day returned, and even the sun ap- 
peared, though very faintly, and as when an eclipse is com- 
ing on. Every object that presented itself to our eyes (which 
were extremely weakened) seemed changed, being covered 
over with Avhite ashes, as with a deep snow. We returned 
to Misenum, where we refreshed ourselves as well as we 
could, and passed an anxious night betwen hope and fear ; 
though indeed with a much larger share of the latter ; for 
the earthquake still continued, while several enthusiastic peo- 
ple ran up and down, heightening their own and their 
friends' calamities by terrible predictions. However, my 
mother and I, notwithstanding the danger we had passed, 
and that which still threatened us, had no thoughts of leav- 
ing the place till v\^e should receive some account from my 
uncle. 

"And now you will read this narrative without any view 
of inserting it in your history, of which it is by no means wor- 
thy ; and indeed you must impute it to your own request if it 
shaU deserve the trouble of a letter."* 



14th. — The city of Pompeii stood on the gulf of Naples, at 
the mouth of the small river Sarnus, now called Sarno, about 
twelve miles from the city of Naples, and five miles from 
Vesuvius. It is surrounded by walls which have been traced 
in various parts of their circuit, in order to determine its ex- 
tent. It occupies nearly as much space as Reading, and must 
have contained many more inhabitants, as its streets are nar- 
rower, and it was much more densely built. Its walls were 
no doubt formerly washed by the sea, but at present the 
beach is at least a mile distant. Its destruction, as already 
stated, happened by the great eruption of Mount Vesuvius in 
the year 79 of the Christian era, and it was again discovered 
in 1 730, by a vine-dresser, while working in his vineyard^ 
which was situated immediately over the city, and near the 
Sarno. It was covered to the depth of twelve or fifteen feet 
only, by showers of ashes and pumice-stone, which are easily 



♦Pliny's Letters, vi. 2'J; Meltnoih's translalicn. 



NOTES OF TRAVEL. 141 

removed. About one-third of the city, comprising eighteen 
streets of the most interesting parts of it, are now disinterred. 
The principal part of these excavations were made by the 
French while in possession of Naples, and they are at present 
still continued, though slowly, by the Neapolitan government. 
As this ill-fated city presents the most interesting illustra- 
tions of the habits, manners and customs of the ancients in 
their minutest detail, and as an intense desire to visit it has 
been among my earliest and fondest dreams, I would ear- 
nestly beg you to have patience with me if I should detain 
you an unreasonable time within its curious precints. Let 
us then proceed slowly and regularly to examine all the ob- 
jects of interest, as they were found, and call to mind those 
which we have already seen with such intense curiosity in 
tlie Museo Borbonico, at Naples, following the order laid 
down by the invaluable guide book of Mad. Stark, and car- 
rying a chart of the city in our hands. 

This road is supposed to be an extension of the famous 
Via Appia from Rome. The extensive ruin on our right 
was the splendid villa of Marcus Arius Dioynedes, beautiful- 
y situated on the declivity of a hill. This house evidently 
had three stories, which was unusual at Pompeii ; the upper 
one was destroyed, but we will enter the second by this 
flight of steps which leads up from the street of Tombs. This 
brings us into the Peristyle formed of four columns, that 
opens by a passage into an open Qudrangle surrounded by 
four porticos resting on fourteen columns, with a large cis- 
tern in its centre. This received the rain water, and conduc- 
ted it into the well, whose marble top is deeply worn by the 
ropes used to draw water from it. In this story was the La- 
rarium, or chapel of the household gods, in which was found 
a beautiful little statue of Minerva. Here v/ere XhQ ser- 
vants' rooms, in one of which was found the skeleton of a 
dog ; and here were the guest-chambers, in which visitors 
were received. This corridor leads to apartments delightful- 
ly overlooking the sea, and the terraces which rise up fiom 
the garden. Here is a pretty little cabinet or boudoir, whose 
walls are delightfully painted, and contains an alabaster jet 
d'eau in the form of a table. This large saloon is neatly 

11 



142 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

decorated with paintings of birds, fruits, masks, and in it 
were found fragments of a silver vase. Here is the triclmi- 
iim or dining hall, which appears smaU for so sumptuous a 
house ; but then you must recollect that the tricVinia were 
family dining rooms only, and that when dinner parties were 
given by the ancients their tables were spread in the occus, 
in the peristyle or under its porticos. Observe the beautiful 
frescos in these ante-rooms — the car of Diana, with her stags 
luiharnessed, the car of Apollo drawn by gryphons, &c., and 
all as fresh as if the artist had just left his work. What do 
you think our good ladies would sa^^, if they were shown in- 
to such contracted covey-holes as these, for chambers ? They 
might readily conceive that the servant in a fit of absence of 
mind had mistaken the door and opened the clothes press, if 
they did not see the low, narrow platform on which the bed 
was placed. These alcoves in the chambers were covered 
by curtains, as rings were found at their top. This apart- 
ment was a dressing-room, in which a number of small glass 
vases were found, for containing perfumes and cosmetics. 
Here is another triclinium, probabh' designed for winter. Let 
us pass through this ante-room, and we shall see the whole 
luxuriant arrangement of the private baths of a gentleman of 
wealth. Bathing was considered a luxury of the first impor- 
tance among the ancients, and hence the space occupied by, 
a.nd the care and expense bestowed upon their batlis. Here 
is the Hypocausirum or stove room, there the Frigidariirm 
or cold bath ; the SpoUatorium is the hall in w^hich the bath- 
ers undressed and dressed. This apartment \\<x^ glazed win- 
dows, it was supposed. The Tepidarium was a room heat- 
ed by hot air passed under a hollow pavement and between 
double walls, where the bathers were scraped with strigils 
and anointed with oil. ^\\^ panes of g/ass we saw in the 
iNluseum at Naples, were taken from this apartment, and the 
sash of the window, was found reduced to charcoal. This is 
the Sudatorium or steam bath, this the Calidariu7n or hot 
Ijath, and this the Laconicum or hot air bath. The windows 
of the Calidarium were also glazed. This large hall in Ro- 
man houses is called the occks, and was used as a dining 
room on gala-days. The small cabinet on this side appears 



KOTES OF TRAVEL. 14'5 

Ko liave been the library, which, ahhoiigh insufficient at the 
present day to hold the literary treasures of many a novel- 
reading Miss, was yet abundantly ample to contain the whole 
library of a Pompeiian. Now let us descend to the ground 
■door and examine this large hall which must have been mag- 
nificent, judghig from the remains of the paintings and stucco 
with which its walls were decorated. In this apartment 
were found the remains of a carpet. These small rooms ap- 
pear to have been designed for servants, and in them were 
found a human skeleton, and that of an animal with a small 
bell, shovels, and other agricultural implements. Here is the 
kitchen, and there is the oven, and this the kitchen fire place, 
both of which might be put to their former uses, so perfectly 
preserved are they ! I really feel as if I were intruding on 
the domestic privacy of this rich gentleman's house, and start 
at every blast of wind, lest I should meet one of his slaves 
and be ordered away. In the kitchen were found the bronze 
stove, with the covered bronze stew-pan upon it, which we 
saw in the ISIuseum. Here is the garden with the very soil 
laid out as. directed by the good taste of Mad. Diomedes, eigh- 
teen hundred years ago ! It is flanked by porticos under 
which its rich owner could walk in bad weather and enjoy 
its delightful perfumes, and ^ pergula or summer house was 
erected in its centre, in w]iich was a table supported on a pe- 
destal, to which the family no doubt often resorted in those 
charmingly mild summer evenings to take their 'C«/zV/a,' (hot 
drinks, composed of hot ^vater, wine and spices) as our good 
ladies take their tea. Perhaps, in the absence of Monsieur, 
a few intimate lady friends were also admitted, and then a 
bit of scandal and the discussion of the fashions from Rome 
would give increased zest to their cups of Calida. From the 
garden there was a door openhig toward the sea, near which 
Vv^ere found two skeletons ; one had a key in one hand and 
a finely ornamented gold-ring on the other. Near these skel- 
etons-were also found fragments of silver vases, and that linen 
wrapper in the Museum, containing eighty-eight silver, ten 
gold and nine bronze coins. Here in this part of the garden 
is the reservoir for fish, embellished by a jet d'eau; for a Ro- 
man cook it is said always selected his fish perfectly fresh.- 



144 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

Observe a number of AmphorsB (wine jars) leaning against 
the back wall of the garden ; they were probably set out in 
preparation for the approaching vintage. Under these porti- 
cos of the garden were the cellars as you see, lighted and 
ventilated from the street, by loop holes formed exactly 
like those of modern date. In this cellar were found the skel- 
etons of eighteen aduhs and two children, one quhe an in- 
fant. The cellar was nearly filled up with fine ashes blown 
in through the loop-holes, and formed perfect moulds around 
each corpse. If you will come a little nearer, you will see 
the distinct impression of the female breast and part of the 
neck here against the wall. This unfortunate subject seem- 
ed to have perished in a standing position. What must have 
been the horror and alarm of this wretched group of human 
beings on that awful day of destruction and devastation ! 
Near the skeleton of the young woman, the impression of 
whose body you have seen in the indurated ashes, were found 
several gold necklaces, silver and bronze rings, a comb, and 
in her hand a purse full of copper coins. This is the purse 
which you saw at the Museum so surprisingly preserved. 
On the other side of the street and nearly opposite this house, 
you see the tombs of the family of Diomedes. 

Adjoining the villa of Diomedes, towards the gate of the 
city, is a small, rectangular structure, whose walls are stuc- 
coed'and adorned with paintings, which contains three plat- 
forms for couches, and the marble pedestal of a table. In 
ihis was eaten the Silicernium or funeral repast. Farther 
on you observe some beautiful tombs in white marble on the 
same side of the way. The first bears the inscription of Na- 
voleia Tyche and Caius Munatius Fausius, and is an ele- 
gant funeral monument in the form of an altar, whose sides 
are ornamented with bassi-relievi. One of these represents 
a vessel going into port. Its interior you observe is a Co- 
hanharium, (niches constructed to receive the cinerary urns) 
in which were found three large glass vases or urns cased in 
lead, and containing burnt bones, and a liquor composed of 
oil and wine. Many lamps and urns of pottery were also 
found here. Tlie next is the magnificent tomb of Cahcntius 
^uietusj who, it appears trom the inscription, was one of tlio 



NOTES OF TRAVEL, 145 

>jlugusials, an order of priests bearing a high rank. Let us 
now cross to the opposite side of the street, and examine yon 
tomb without an inscription, and having a marble door by 
which we can enter it. It has but one niche, in which was 
found a single cinerary urn, containing burnt bones and ash- 
-es, and on it was deposited a gold ring. Here on the right 
side of the street is the tomb of Arickis Scaiirus^ embellished 
with bassi-relievi of gladiatoral combats. Its interior is a 
very perfect co/w?^^5cr^wm, consisting of many compartments. 
It appears from the inscription' that the magistrates of the city 
had decreed an equestrian statue of Scaurus to be erected in 
the Forum. 

Nearly opposite this you observe the ruins of a very large 
building that was fronted by a long portico. This was a 
Hospitium or inn. Here in the court yard is the fountain 
with a watering place for cattle, still in good repair. Under 
the ruins of the portico were found five skeletons of human 
subjects who appeared to have perished in each other's em- 
brace. They are .supposed to have been a mother and her 
children. Two other skeletons were also found in this house 
with a number of gold and bronze coins near them. A great 
variety of interesting articles were found on this spot which 
you saw in the museum^ Gold rings and ear rings, lamps, 
water buckets, tongs, scales, cups, pots, vases, lachrymatories 
of glass, bottles, pad-locks, a marble mortar, exactly resemb- 
ling modern ones, dice, &c., &c. These galleries on the top 
of the building must have commanded a magnificent view. 

On the right hand side of the way, and opposite the inn 
you observe that large square space originally surrounded by 
porticos. This was called the Usirina^ or the place where 
the dead were burnt and their ashes collected. This platform 
of masonry, and these broken vases are supposed to have 
served for washing the dead. This path leads up to the ru- 
ins of a spacious villa^ which has received the name, for 
what reason I know not, of Cicero's Villa. On one of the 
walls of this ruin was discovered the following inscription : 
^''Sea and fresh water baths of Marcus Cy^assits Frugius.''' 
Here were found some fine frescos and those beautiful mosa- 
ics made by Dioscodes oi Samos, (whose name they bear) 



J4G NOTES OF TRAVEI,. 

representing comic scenes which we so much admired in the 
museum. 

Opposite this villa is a small semi-circular building with 
a seat of masan work around it, and an the right hand side 
of the way nearer the gate, are t\vo similar ones finished with 
stucco and roofed. They seem ta have been designed as 
resting places for foc-t -passengers. Near the first were found 
two skeletons ^vith numerous bronze and gold coins. This 
niche close to the city gate Avas the sentry -box,* and by.it 
was discovered the skeleton of the guard with his lance and 
helmet, who like a true Roman, did not desert his post even 
during the awful catastrophe that overwhelmed the whole 
city! 

Here we are then, in reality under the walls of the city of 
Pompeii, and "At a step two thousand years roll back- 
ward ! ^^ The ardent and dearly cherished desires of my 
whole life accomplished ! It seems like a waking dream t 
Never shall the impi^ession of this moment be effaced from 
my memory, for it is an epoclf in my life which will ever be 
recurred to with unceasing pleasure. 

The w^hole city was encompassed by double walls, of 
which you see a specimen excavated here on our left. The- 
external wall ran through the centre of a ditch, and be- 
tween the two Y/alls is the platform called aggei^, about twen- 
ty feet in width. Let us ascend to the top of the ramparts or 
agger by means of this flight of steps. This was no doubt 
used by the Pompeiians as a promenade, and must have af- 
forded a delightful prospect. The walls are from tAventy to 
twenty five feet high and are built of travertino, a species ot" 
limestone, and peperino, a kind of hard laVa, which consists 
sometimes, as you here see, of immense blocks joined with- 
out cement. Some parts of the walls appear to have been 
repaired rather hastily, perhaps after their injury by the earth- 
quake which is known to have occurred in the year 63^ 
Here is one of the square towers by which the waHs were 
fortified at unequal distances varying from one to five hund- 
red feet according to the situation of the ground to be defen- 
ded. Tliis one nearest the gate is among the most perfect ;: 
H was three stories high and provided whh a sallyport. Thi,s; 



"NOTES OP TRAVEX. 147 

gate is called the Herculaneum gate and is a plain substan- 
tial structure of brick, consisting of three arches very much 
after the fashion of modern gates. The central arch designed 
for carriages is about fifteen feet wide and high in proportion, 
and the side arches calculated for foot-passengers are about 
five feet wide and ten in height. On this gate was' found 
an inscription stating that there would be a chase and gladi- 
atorial combats at the Amphitheatre, and that the seats would 
be shaded by awnings. 

This street, one of the principle ones, is called the Via 
Domitiana. Its width is thirty -three feet including the side- 
walks, w^hich are about five feet wide, and raised about a 
foot and a half above the pavement. The pavement of the 
street is composed of flat pieces of peperino (hardened lava) 
of various shapes and sizes laid in a strong cement and joined 
with great exactitude. This was the common mode of pav- 
ing, among the Romans. The side walks are paved in the 
same way with smaller pieces and more heterogeneous ma- 
terials, including fragments of bricks. Here you observe the 
ruts worn to the depth of several inches by the action of the 
carriage wheels. The distance between the wheels of anci- 
ent cars it appears, was about four feet. The first house on our 
right within the gate, with the cAe^/^^er^ painted on the side of 
the principal entrance, seems from this circumstance, to have 
been a public inn, for these chequers appear to have indicated 
places of public entertainment. The entrance is sufficiently 
spptcious to admit carriages, and this, taken in connection 
With the objects found on the premises strengthen the suppo- 
sition that this was the post-house. Here surrounding the 
court-yard you see many chambers of various sizes and a 
portico. This passage leads to the vaulted cellar underneath. 
These two shops near the front door, appear, from their fit- 
thig up, to have been restaurants. Here is a curious talis- 
7nan on this pilaster fronting the street, about which there 
appears much discrepancy of opinion ; some supposing it to be 
a charm against the evil eT/e.'"^ Skeletons of horses were found 
in the stables, rings for fastening horses, the remains of three 



^Hoc siQnum penis est immensse magnituduiis suis glandihus ornatus'* 

11. 



148 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

cars, and some pieces of iron resembling wheel-tire, kc. 
According to an inscription, which is nearly effaced, the pro- 
prietor's name of this establishment was ^Ibinus. 

This building on. the left was evidently a T/iermopolium, 
or what at the present day would be called a coffee house ; 
where calida (preparations of hot water, wine and spices) 
were sold. Here you see upon the marble top of this coun- 
ter, the marks of cups or glasses, and by taking this lens you 
will perceive that the stone is corroded to an appreciable 
depth. Did the ancients make use of some corrosive hquid, 
of which we have no account, as is supposed by some anti- 
quarians, or will wine alone have this corroding effect if it 
is permitted to remain a long time, and until it has become 
acid 7 for I have understood that the cups themselves were 
found upon the counter. The latter supposition appears to 
me most probable. In this caffe were found a stove or fur- 
nace, and other utensils for the preparation of calida. 

This edifice is called the House of the Vestals, 3.nd was 
arranged to accomodate two families. On the pavement of 
the prothyruTR or entrance, you observe the pretty device 
wrought in mosaic of black and white stones, with the hospi- 
table inscription of "Salve" (Welcome !) — This is an appro- 
priate idea, and pleases me much.* Here is the reception 
room, and there are the baths, the bed-chambers ornamented 
with paintings, a dressing-room, a saloon, the library, &c. &c. 
This is the Lararhirn, or family chapel, with three recesses 
for statues, and a place for the sacred fire. On this door sill 
you observe two serpents in mosaic, and in the centre of the 
pavement of this small room, is the representation of a laby- 
rinth or table for playing an ancient game, and on the floor 
of this room is a cornucopiEe. In this house were found a 
human skeleton, and that of a dog, with some gold orna- 
ments for ladies. Behind the house were discovered ten skel- 
etons, (one of them having four rings on the same finger) 
with a number of gold ear rings, a necklace, two bracelets, 
gold and silver coins, and the small square bronze lantern 
glazed with horn, which we saw in the Museum. 



•Miss F. an ingenious friend cf mine in Paris, has snggested ihi* 
device and inscription for door-rugs. Would it not be pretty on oil- 
clotli for balls? 



NOTES OF TRAVEL. 14J> 

Contiguous to the House of the Vestals you see this edi- 
fice with a large atrium or court, around which are ranged 
numerous rooms, terminated by a garden. This is called the 
-^dnatotnical Theatre, or House of a Surgeon. In it were 
found those numerous surgical instruments that interested me 
so intensely in the Museum. You recollect how strongly I 
expressed my astonishment at the slight variation that these 
instruments have undergone for the last eighteen hundred 
years. Take a seat in the shade of the Avail on this fragment 
of a column, while I recur to my notes taken in the Museum. 
1. Numerous forceps: one five inches long, with blades that 
separate ; another five inches long, with rounded extremities 
and a lateral curve near the end ; one six inches long, bent 
in the middle. This is no doubt a gullet forceps. One three 
inches long, the blades of which are narrow at their joined 
extremities, and widen as they proceed towards the grasping 
extremity, which closes in the form of an arch. This forceps 
is furnished with a sliding ring to keep it closed, like our te- 
naculum forceps. Another small one, exactly resembling our 
old fashioned tweezers, and was no doubt used for the same 
purposes. 2. Two catheters with the elongated openings or 
eyes. The male catheter is nine inches in length, and has 
the double curve in the form of the letter S ; and the female 
is four inches long. 3. Two spatulas of bronze. 4. A highly 
finished instrument in the form of a forceps, probably de- 
signed for extracting teeth. 5. Several probes and a cautery 
of iron. 6. A needle, also of iron, curved like those in pres- 
ent use, but round. 7. Two lancets, made either of copper 
or bronze, probably the latter, one about two and the other 
three inches in length. 8. Several scalpels : one with a short 
hcindle and a blade about two inches long, very much curved 
on the edge and having a straight back ; another with a blade 
also two inches long of a triangular shape. A thick back 
runs beyond the narrow extremity of the blade and forms a 
button, no doubt designed to run in the groove of a directory, 
like the modern probe-pointed histories. These are also made 
of bronze, which the ancients must have possessed the art of 
tempering like steel. 9. An elevator with flat and serrated 
prongs at each end and a handle in the middle, exactly lika 



150 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

those of the present day. 10. A bronze histrninent with thre^r 
blades, generally supposed to be a dilator uteri, but I have 
not the least doubt was designed for a speculinn, of which 
some of our modern instruments are awkward imitations. 
In this house were also found a number of leaden weights 
with an inscription that signified that those who pay will be 
served, I do not see wliat use a surgeon could make of such 
things, part;cularly bearing such inscriptions, disinterested as 
is the profession. He no doubt came by them accidentally 
in the terror and fright of that dreadful day of destruction. 

This spacious edifice which encloses two extensive courts 
and is entered by this large gate-way, is the Ponderariinn 
or Custom-house. Here were found steelyards, and a great 
number of leaden weights, and among them, the one you so 
much admired in the Museum, representing a head of Mer- 
cury. In the back court-yard were discovered the skeletons 
of two horses, with three bronze bells on the neck of each, 
parts of carts and remains of harness. It seems that the 
Pompeiians, like the Neapolitans of the present day, were 
accustomed to decorate their horses with bells. How often 
have we had occasion to trace the strong analogy of modern 
with ancient customs. You recollect how strongly our curi- 
osity was excited the first few days after our arrival at Na- 
ples by the singular shapes of many of their ordinary utensils, 
their furniture, &c., and how surprised we were to find their 
most exact counterparts in the Museo Borbonico, in the ar- 
ticles taken from Pompeii and Herculaneum. Here you see 
the remains of a subterranean passage formed of columns, 
and called a crypto-porticus, leading to the sea. This was 
probably used to convey merchandize from the quays into 
the custom-house. 

In this narrov/ alley to the left of the Via Domitiana, is 
the house of the Danzatraci, so called from the four 
paintings of these figures in the quadrangle or court. Here 
are many other pretty paintings on the walls, particularly hi 
the chambers. How clear and fresh they are as if tliey hud 
just been finished ! The house next door is called the house 
of Isis from the number of Egyptian deities it <;ontains. You 
remember the little bronze statue of Apollo, with silver 



SrOTES OF TRAVEL. 151 

chords to his harp in the museuRij that was found in this al- 
ley. Here is the public Bakery. Here are four mills still 
standing, and this was the stable for the donkeys who turned 
them. How exactly similar this oven is to our own ! If 
yon little hole were repaired one might readily bake in it. 
Here are vases for water and there aniphorse (jars) which 
contained the flour. Heaps of grain were found in this 
house, some of which we saw in the museum preserved in 
every respect, except its colour, which is black. 

This, as you see by the name written in red paint on a 
white ground, at the side of the entrance, was the residence 
of Cains Sallust, a gentleman of wealth and taste. This 
mode of inscribing the owner's name on houses was the com- 
mon practice in Pompeii as we shall see farther on ; the hou- 
ses were also numbered as you ^QQ,h\ximreguIa7' succession, 
as is often done at the present day in Italy. Here at the en- 
trance you see this shop which communicates with the house, 
having a counter and a number of amphoras or jars fastened 
under it, for the purpose of containing the various commodi- 
ties for sale. It is conjectured that Sallust was a land pro- 
prietor, and sold his own products, not only by wholesale but 
retail ; as is the custom it is said, at the present day in seve- 
ral towns of Magna Grsecia. This residence was elegantly 
ornamented. Here in the quadrangle you see that beautiful 
fountain, and a flower garden in its centre, furnished with a 
tricliniinn (a table and couches) for dining in summer. On 
the right of the quadrangle were the ladies' apartments, in 
whose centre is a court surrounded by columns, from which 
they were lighted. This is the saloon, and here are the hot 
baths, all beautifully painted. One of these rooms was fin- 
ished with great taste and elegance, being paved Vvdth pre- 
cious African marbles, and painted in what is called encausto, 
a method of decorating Avhich I believe is lost ; but you see 
how perfectly the colours are preserved under the beautiful 
transparent varnish which formed part of the art. Besides 
a bronze stag, through whose mouth the Wciters of the im- 
pluvium, or rain-water cistern, passed, and a few bronze 
kitchen utensils, nothing of value was found in this house. 
It is now generally admitted by antiquarians that excava- 



152 IfOTES OP TRAVEL. 

tions were made by the ancients after the catastrophe of 79, 
and that this accounts for the absence of valuables in many 
instances where presumption would lead us to look for them. 
In a small lane, near the house of Sallust, were discovered 
four skeletons, supposed to have been the mistress of the 
house and three servants. Some money, the silver mirror 
which we saw in the museum, intagli in gold rings, a pair of 
ear rings, the necklace composed of gold chains and the gold 
bracelets which you so much admired, were found near them. 

Here on the opposite side of this small street is another 
public Bakery, much more extensive than the former, but 
very similar in general arrangement. This is called the house 
of a Musician, from the representations in frescos on the 
walls, of musical instruments, theatrical scenery, &c., &c. 
Some elegant utensils of bronze and glass, and a porphyry 
table were also discovered here. The lararium in the quad- 
rangle is very tasteful, embellished with a painting represent- 
ing an altar, around which two serpents are twined. 

On the right side of the Via Domitiana you see this large 
edifice with chequers painted on the wall. This was a 
hotel kept by one Julius Polyhius, and had extensive dor- 
mitories under these arcades, which are said to have been gla- 
zed. Several of those elegant bronze candelabra, a steelyard, 
and leaden weights were found here. Observe this shop 
with a sign on the wall, representing a serpent devouring 
pine-cones. It is a druggisVs shop, where the variety of 
drugs and medicines were found that we saw in the muse- 
um ; and among others you recollect the box of gilded pills, 
which were perhaps prepared for the daughter of Sir Mar- 
cus Diomedes, or Lady Pansa, the Edile's wife. This was 
the restaurant of Fortunatus ; and next to it is a bake-house, 
which terminates the Via Domitiana. 

Turning to the left into the Street of the Bat/is,\ve com« 
to the magnificent establishment of Pansa, the Edile, or 
Mayor of Pompeii. This house is one of the largest that has 
been excavated, and was finished in a style of great elegance. 
It will give you a perfect idea of the arrangements of an an- 
cient dwelling. It is surrounded on all sides by streets, and 
licnce such buildings were called insula by the Romans, and 



NOTES OF TRAVEL. 153 

must have been particularly advantageous, from the number 
of 5.hops they afforded for rent. Pansa you see, had seven ; 
and if they yielded as well as those in the Palais Royal, 
must have produced him a neat revenue. The Ostium or 
entrance is wide, and leads as is usual, to the atrium or quad- 
rangle, which is paved with beautiful marble, and contains 
an impluvium or rain-water cistern, prettily finished. The 
peristyle or second court, is approached through the tabli- 
num by steps, is embellished by paintings, and makes a very 
imposing appearance. In its centre is a reservoir for fish, for 
you see that the Mayors of ancient times were as much men 
of taste as their modern confreres. From the peristyle a 
wide passage, called the Occus, leads to a portico running the 
whole width of the garden, where its beauty and fragrance 
could be enjoyed in bad weather. The garden is enclosed 
by a high wall, and contains a reservoir and large tank for 
water. This building measures two hundred feet in length, 
by one hundred in width, and the portico and garden (which 
may be said to form part of the house) make an addition of 
another hundred feet. Nothing could have exceeded the 
splendor and magnificence of an ancient house, particularly 
when brilliantly illuminated. That the ancients paid great 
attention to the lighting of their houses, is to be inferred from 
the great number, elegance, and variety of their lamps and 
candelabra. 

Now imagine yourself eighteen hundred years young- 
er, and strolling down the street of the baths, on your 
way to the Forum, on one of those charmingly bland sum- 
mer evenings so usual in this country, and that his Honor 
the Mayor had invited some of his friends to a coeiia (sup- 
per) tliat evening, and that the house was all in readiness, 
illuminated and thrown open through its whole extent, to re- 
ceive the cooling influence of the sea-breeze before the arri- 
val of the guests, and that you had just got opposite the 
house as the first biga (carriage) had arrived. What a scene 
of elegance and splendor ! Two beautiful caldelabra, with 
three elegant lamps on each, light up the ostium, and render 
visible the graceful frescos on either side, numerous ctatues, 
and the slaves bustling about. Farther on is seen the Atri- 
um, reflecting floods 'of light from its highly polished and 



154 NOTES OF TBAA^EL. 

tesselated marble pavement, surrounded by chairs and couch- 
es of rich wood with damask cushions,- and in its centre a 
beautiful candelabrum. Here is seen a small group of per- 
sons composing the family. Five ladies, the one a matron 
dressed in beautifully flowing stoix of richly colored stufl', in 
which purple predominates, fastened on the left shoulder, by 
curiously vv'rought Jibulw or clasps, and wearing gold ear- 
rings and rich massive bracelets and finger rings set with 
brilliants. They seem uneasy, rising frequently, apparently 
for the purpose of adjusting something about the lamps, or 
picking a bit of fuzz from the door or the couches, and then 
taking their seats again in different positions. There is the 
fine, tah, commanding figure of Mr. Pansa himself, his hair 
somewhat gray, and his ample toga thrown over his shoul- 
der and descending in graceful folds to his feet, with a mas- 
sive sold signet rine on the forefinger of his ri^ht hand, mov- 
ing about v^ith a manifest air of impatience, which he makes 
great efforts to concea,!, talking in a suppressed voice to the 
servants as they flit through the peristyle. At the other end 
of the Atrium are the the rich festoons of the purple and gold 
curtains of the Tablinum, gracefully drawn aside, and sup- 
portet by. scarlet silk cords and tassels, by which you see the 
peristyle with the curtains of the portico hoisted, and hang- 
ing in graceful folds at their top. This brings into partial 
view the interiorv of the porticos, where couches and tables 
are being prepared for the repast. The occus, leading from 
the peristyle through the exterior portico to the garden is al- 
so brilliantly illuminated with numerous lamps, as is the gar- 
den itself. How rich and splendid is this magnificent view 
receding in beautiful perspective to the distance of three hun- 
dred feet ! If such was the splendor of the house of an Edile 
of a Provincial town, what must have been that of the Pal- 
ace of the Cirsars ? 

In the house of Pansa were found the skeletons of five fe- 
males with gold ear-rings, several gold coins, numerous 
kitchen utensils of silver and bronze, a pretty silver vase 
with a handle representing the head of Pan, two large cop- 
per boilers, and that highly wrought candelabrum, which 
you recollect, standing on a table in the centre of the second. 



NOTES OF TRAVEL. 155 

room of the IMuseum, and two others of less beauty. Here 
is the shop in which were discovered the colors for fresco 
painting, which we saw in the Museum. *It appears we- 
have got into the Chesnid Street of Pompeii, for in the next 
square below the house of Pansa is the House of the Drmiia- 
tic Poet, the most tasteful and elegant thus far disinterred. 
You see it is not extensive, but its decorations were expen- 
sive and beautiful. The ostium or entrance is painted in 
frescos and on its pavement near the gate was found that 
pretty mosaic, representing a large dog chained, which in- 
terested you so much in. the Museum. Under the figure 
were the words Cave Canum. (beware of the dog.) The 
whole of the quadrangle was also painted in frescos of supe- 
rior elegance, most of which have consequently been cut out 
of the wahs with great labour and expense, and deposited in 
lie museum at Naples. You recollect the Parting Interview be- 
t A^een Achilles and Briseis, said by artists to.be among. the fin- 
est paintings in existence, and not at all inferior to many of the 
best productions of Raphael. The walls of all the rooms you 
observe were also beautifully painted. Here is a little Cupid 
fishing , and presenting the fish to. Venus. This room was 
supposed to have been the library, and contains marine and 
land views, and the representation of these scrolls of papyri 
inscribed with Greek characters is curious. The beautiful 
mosaic representing tlie rehearsal of a drama, was found in 
this quadrangle; Hovv^ curious and elegant the capitals of 
the columns composing the peristyle are. The lararium 3'ou 
see was evidently enclosed by iron bars, the remains of which 
are still here. In it Vv'as found a small statue of Bacchus. 
Observe the elegaat decorations on the w^alls of this small 
apartment. Representations of genii, flying figures, a bird's 
nest filled with infant Cupids, and those airy and graceful 
arabesques. Even this highly ornamented and superb edi- 
fice had two shops communicating with it. Some broken 
mosaics were here found Vv-liicii appeared to have been inju- 
red by a previous excavation, and some other marks seemed 
to give' pretty strong evidence of this. Here were discovered 
a number of gold ornaments; two necklaces, two ear-rings, 
chains of beautiful workmanship, five bracelets, one of which. 



156 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

is the massive one in the form of serpents, (said to weigh seven 
ounces) which you recollect in the museum, several fine 
rings and a quantity of coin ; also a curious portable stove, 
an elegant bronzfe lamp, and various utensils of pottery and 
bronze. 

Immediately opposite these interesting edifices you see the 
extensive ruins of the Public Baths. They cover a space of 
about a hundred square feet, are the most perfect of any now 
in existence, and, as you may suppose from the universality 
of the practice of bathing among the ancients, were finished 
in a style of great luxury and magnificence. Let us enter by 
this covered vestibule whose ceiling is ornamented with stars, 
into the apodyteriuin or undressing room. This you see is 
provided with seats made of lava, and these holes in the wall 
were for the insertion of wooden clothes' pegs. This large 
oblong hall on the right is the tepidariiim or warm bath. It 
is highly finished in stucco, painted yellow, and lighted from 
the top by a large pane of glass, ground on one side to pre- 
vent persons on the roof from looking in. The frieze of the 
cornice is prettily carved with representations of lyres, wing- 
ed lions, vases, &c. At this end you see a small niche which 
was closed with glass and intended for a lamp, which is evi- 
dent from its smoked appearance. The floor is of marble 
mosaic, and the walls are laid off in white pannels bordered 
with red. How elegantly and tastefully the whole is finish- 
ed ! The arched ceiling is divided into compartments and 
beautifully ornamented in stucco with various figures and 
liying genii, delicately relieved on medallions surrounded by 
foliage. The ground is painted in red and bright blue. The 
finish of the walls is very curious. They are divided into 
compartments by a kind of pilaster, on which are modelled 
in terra-cotta stout, robust figures on high relief, about four 
feet heigh, with girdles around their loins, baskets on their 
heads and their elbows elevated in a peculiar manner. 
These support a massive cornice of great richness and beau- 
ty, and were called by the ancients Atlanti or Telamones, 
from the circumstance of their resembling Jltlas upholding 
the world. They are painted flesh colour, with black hair 
and beards; and the baskets on their heads, as well as the 



NOTES OF TRAVEL. 157 

mouldings on the pedestal, are painted in imitation of gilding. 
The pedestals and niches represent porphyry. This apart- 
ment is lighted by an elevated window, in which were fomid 
those fine panes of glass in the Musemii, ingeniously fastened 
in a bronze frame by nuts and screws. The immense bronze 
brazier found in the tepidarium is very curious. It measures 
upwards of six feet in length, is ornamented with the figure 
of a cow in its centre, and its legs are winged sphinxes, ter- 
minating in lion's paws. Here are also three bronze bench- 
es six feet long and a foot wide, with legs ornamented with 
ox heads, and terminating vv^ith cloven feet. The seats bear 
the following inscription : M. Nigidius Vaccula, P. S. 

As you must be much fatigued by the excessive labours of 
the morning, and as we shall not find a cooler place in Pom- 
peii or one more convenient, we will seat oiy selves on one of 
these antique benches and take our bottle of wine and the 
bread and cheese which you w^ere so provident as to bring 
with you. We will next pass into this magnificent long hall 
adjoining the tepidarium. This is the caldarium or vapour 
bath, and is superbly finished. Its pavement is wrought in 
mosaic, and on its sides, which are yellow, are iiuted pilas- 
ters painted red, supporting a massive, curiously fluted and 
rich cornice, also red. The ceiling is elegantly carved in 
beautiful flutings. At this end of the apartment in a niche, 
you see this superb basin, formed of a single block of white 
marble and called by the ancients the labrum. It is about 
five feet in diameter, and has ^jet (Peait in its centre, through 
T/hich, as appears from the arrangements, hot water bub- 
bled. It is raised about three feet above the floor, on ma- 
son work stuccoed and painted red, and served for partial 
ablutions to those who took the vapour baths. On its edge 
is an inscription in bronze letters, which signifies that G. M. 
Aper and M. Rufus, duumvirs, were directed by the Decu- 
riones to erect this labrum at the public expense, and that it 
cost 750 sesterces, equal to about thirty dollars. See how 
prettily the arclied ceiling over this labrum is worked in 
stucco, to represent small figures of boys, animals, tritons', 
vases, &c. &c. Many parts of these figures you observe, 
instead of being modelled m the ordinary way, are painted 

vi 



15.8. NOTES OF TRAVEL.. 

with a kind of thin stucco evidently for the purpose of saving, 
labour and expense. At a certain distance however, they 
cannot be distinguished from relievi. This is a little trick- 
really quite worthy of French ingenuity. . The whole widths 
at the other end of the hall is occupied by the hot-bath, a 
shallow reservoir about twelve feet long by four wide, con- - 
structed of white marble, and raised two steps above the 
floor. In the interior is a continuous marble bench around 
its whole extent. It was supplied with water from a large 
bronze cock. The whole of the walls, as well as the pave- 
ment of this beautiful hall were hollow^ as we saw them in 
the baths of the house of Diomedes, for- the purpose of heat- 
ing it by the transmission of hot air. It was lighted from the 
top, and over the lahrum was a vent, intended for the escape 
of the superabundant steam. Ey returning through the te- 
pidarium to the apodyterium, we shall, gain entrance to the 
Frigidarium., or cold bath. , Tliis is a circular chamber re- 
markable for its perfect state of preservation, also elegantly 
stuccoed, and painted yellow and green, with a ceiling in 
the form of a truncated cone, painted blue. How beautiful- 
ly the cornice is modelled and painted, to. represent horse- 
races and chariot-races by Cupids. These four niches pain- 
ted red above and blue below,, are provided with seats for 
the convenience of bathers. , The circular basin measuring 
about twelve feet in diameter, is a beautiful structure lined 
with white marble. Two marble steps in its interior lead to 
its bottom where the representation of a cushion is formed in 
marble for bathers to sit upon. A large bronze spout in the 
wall supplied this magnificent bath with water, and in its 
rim is the waste-pipe to carry it off.. This passage leads into 
the peristyle or court surrounded by wide porticos, contain- 
ing rooms for the accommodation of the attendants on the 
baths. This inscription written in red paint in the same 
careless manner as the other performances of this kind, pur- 
ports that, "On the occasion of the dedication of the baths, 
at the expense of C. A. Nigidius Mains there will be a chase 
of wild beasts, athletic contests, sprinkling of perfumes and 
'in awning," and then is added instead of ^'God save the 
^^ommomoealth,'^ "Prosperity to Mains chief of the Colony." 



NOTES OF TRAVEL, 15^ 

This court seems to have been a common place for sticking 
hills, as many other inscriptions are still visible. How per- 
fectly the whole of the reservoirs, coppers, flues, boilers, &c. 
>&c. pertaining to this grand establishment are preserved ! 

Let us now return to the street and enter the women's 
baths by the only entrance to them that exists. You observe 
they are paved with marble mosaics, their walls are finished 
in stucco and painted, and their cornices and ceilings orna- 
mented with figures elegantly modelled like those of the 
men^s baths, to which indeed they bear an exact resemblance 
but are less extensive and less perfect. From the large piece 
of leaden pipe with the maker's name stamped upon it, found 
in the women's baths it appears that the ancients were per- 
fectly acquainted with this kind of conduit. 

By crossing the Street of Baths and proceeding down this 
narrow alley we shall arrive at an oblong piazza, surrounded 
in part by a wide portico and numerous shops. This is cal- 
led the Piazza of the Fullers, and contains a full and exten- 
sive apparatus pertaining to this art. On this square pillar 
you see painted in fresco, and no doubt intended as signs, 
numerous representations of the implements and methods of 
scouring in use among persons of this business. The place 
is furnished with basins, cisterns, fountains, a well, &c. &c,. 
A number of bottles were discovered here, and among them 
one that contained a liquid which escaped the moment it was 
disinterred, and another full of olives put up in oil and in a 
perfect state of preservation. Adjoining this piazza is the 
spacious mansion called the House of the large Fountain, 
Here against the wall, at the end of these premises, you see 
this elegant grotto beautifully constructed of shell-work inter- 
spersed with mosaics. In this grotto is the fountain of white 
marble decorated with beautiful bassi-relievi which has gi- 
ven its name to the house. The walls on the sides of this 
elegant work are painted with representations of shrubs and 
flowers, a practice which we have so often remarked in the 
houses and courts of Naples. This inscription on the side of 
the entrance is nearly effaced, but I can make out thc-wordsj, 
M. HoLCONiuM Priscum, n ViR. 



160 NOTES OP TRAVEL. 

Next below this is the House of the small Fountain^ 
which is placed in the same position as in the other house, 
and although smaller is much more elegantly decorated- 
These mosaics around the fountain are very pretty. In this 
semicircular basin was found that \vinged Cupid in bronze* 
holding a goose from wliose beak the water flowed ; also 
near it the statue of a fisherman in bronze seated on a rock 
holding a rod in one hand and a basket in the other, and 
several other pretty statues in marble. Near this latter house 
on the walls in the street are the remains of a ciu-ious pain- 
ting, and on a pilaster of one of the houses is sculptured the 
head of JMercury, which gave the name of Via Dei Mercurii 
to this street. 

Beyond the Houses of the Fountains in the Via L>ei Mer- 
curii is an extensive edifice v/ith a magnificient facade, cal- 
led the House of the Dioscuri, and appears to have been 
divided into three separate habitations, v.-hich are known 
under the distinct names of 1, The House of the Qiicestor. 
How magniticently this whole house was decorated, both 
with frescos and easel-paintings, whose frames were set in- 
to the walls ! You recollect many of these superb specimens 
of ancient art in the Museum. What a rich treat the great 
number of ancient paintings found in Pompeii has been to 
the antiquarians, and all classical scholars, by the light they 
shed on the manners, customs and habits of the ancients ; 
and the aid they have alTorded in explaiiiing thousands of 
unintelligible passages in the classics. The flower-garden 
belonging to this house 3/0U see has been rcpUnted, and the 
larariuvi (family chapel) was enclosed by iron bars. Un- 
der one of the porticos of the court were found two chests 
lined with bronze, firmly fastened to the pavement. One of 
these contained forty-five gold, and some silver coins. Here 
were also discovered numerous other articles of much beau- 
ty, such as bronze vases, lamps, candelabra, &lc., and 
among the latter tliat very pretty one whose three legs were 
made 10 represent the arms of Sicily. 2. The House of 
Jipollo or Mcllager, This house was also superbly painted 
tliroughout,and so elegant were these pictures that they have 
uearly all been removed to the Museum at Naples, at grea: 



NOTES OF TBAVEL. \ 161 

pains and expense. Observe this fine white marble table in 
the peristyle, supported by legs of winged gryphons, and as 
perfectly fresh as if it had just received the last touch of the 
sculptor ! How fine the mosaic pavement is, and how bril- 
liant the colours become when it is wet by the guide ! It re- 
presents little Cupids subduing a lion by binding him with 
garlands of flowers. This house contains subterranean 
apartments, probably for summer use. Here Avere dis- 
covered fourteen silver spoons, a tripod, a beautiful pestle 
and mortar, vases of various shapes, that fine steelyard and 
a weight representing Mercury, elegant candelabra, several 
boxes of pills, gold rings, &c. &c. 3. The House of the 
Faun, so called from that beautiful bronze statue of a Faun 
found there, which you recollect in the Museumo This joii 
see is one of the largest and most elegant and richly adorned 
houses in Pompeii, with the exception of paintings. Its de- 
corations are peculiar. The ostium or entrance had two 
gates and the walls between them are ornamented with 
Egyptian temples in bassi-relievi, and four niches for the 
Lares ox household gods. The mosaics of the atrium are 
superb i Here are representations of the hippopotamus, the 
ibis and the crocodile, exquisitely executed. But under this 
shed erected over it by the present king of Naples, is the 
chef d'^oeuvre of ancient mosaics ! It represents one of the 
battles of Alexander the Great, with the Persians, and con- 
tains a great number of figures, both of men and horses, 
drawn with surprising spirit and energy, and most exquisite- 
ly colored. It is really superb, and I will procure one of the 
coloured drawings of it that we saw in Naples, to show to 
our friends at home. This table resting on a sphinx, and 
formed of the purest Parian marble, is chaste and beautiful 
On these premises were found heavy gold necklaces, a con- 
siderable quantity of money, rich bronze candelabra, the six 
silver stew pans and the brazier with a boiler on it, which 
we saw in the Museum. In the lararium were found tv7o 
•candelabra, and a statue of Mercury. During the excava- 
tions of the Via Dei Mercurii, upwards of a dozen of skele- 
tons were discovered with various articles of value m^u 
them. 



162 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

Returning along this street toward the Forum, you see to 
the left on the corner of the Street of Baths, a spacious 
edifice called the House of the Bacchantes, which was rich- 
ly decorated with paintings, many of which have been re- 
moved to the Museum, where you may recollect particular- 
ly the beautiful one called Zephyr and Flora. How graceful 
and elegant these arabasques are, and how beautifully every 
shade of colour is brought out by wetting the walls ! On the 
opposite corner is the Temple of Fortune, a small but ele- 
gant structure, built, as appears from an inscription which was 
found on it, by a private individual, one Marcus TuUius, 
probably a descendant and relative of the great Cicero. 
This is inferred from the fact that here was found that curi- 
ous statue in the Museum, with a toga painted purple and 
strongly resembling the busts of that distinguished orator. 
Here are some of the remains of the beautiful marbles with 
which the whole building both internally and externally, was 
cased, and which have evidently been removed by former 
excavators. The portico is approached by a fine flight of 
steps on the lower three of which is erected a wall surroun- 
ded originally by a balustrade of iron to protect the altar 
which is built upon it. The portico itself was supported by 
Corinthian Columns and pilasters. The niche for the recep- 
tion of the statue of Fortune is very richly finished. Observe 
this curious statue of a female in which the face was inserted 
by the sculptor after it was finished. Between this and the 
Forum you see this double row of shops in which were found 
many of those articles which interested us so much in the 
Museimi at Naples. By turning to Mad. Stark we shall have 
a list of them : drinking cups, cups and saucers, near a hun- 
dred little fountains for singing birds, steelyards, bronze va- 
ses, candelabra, lamps, tills of pottery exactly like our sav- 
ing-boxes for children, in one of which were found some coins,. 
a large pair of scissors, riags, ear-rings, a marble basin on a 
pedestal, a piece of gold lace, &.c. This small chapel yoii 
see here with an altar and benches in masonry, was dedica- 
ted to the Dii Viales (tutelary divinities of the streets.) 

Proceeding along the Via Dei Mercurii to the St?'eet of 
Dried Fruits, we come to this lofty arch, and passing througU 



>fOTES OF TRAVEIx 16^ 

it, descend by several steps into that magnificent place called 
the Forum, the Palais Royal of Pompeii. It is a large area 
"three hundred paces in length, and of a proportional width, 
and surrounded on three of its sides by a grand colonade 
ilanked with temples, and other public buildings, which we 
will examine in the order given by Mad. Starlc. The 
numerous pedestals that you see supported the statues of 
persons whose distinction merited this honour. Here at the 
Northern end where we entered you see the ruins of the 
magnificent temple of Jupiter. It is supposed to have served 
also as a Senaculum or Senate chamber, and an JErarium 
or treasury. A grand flighHof steps leads up to a spacious 
quadrilateral vestibule formed of magnificent Corinthian co- 
lumns. The cella or body of the temple has two corridors, 
one on each side divided by columns, and at its back part 
are several chambers probably designed for holding the pub- 
lic treasures, records, &c. The walls were painted in com- 
partments, and the pavement is very elegant. Remains of 
colossal statues \vere found, which appeared to have flanked 
the steps. SeverallDronze statues and numerous fragments 
were found in and near this temple. In the basement of the 
building were found numerous fragments of architectural or- 
naments, and statues in marble, which were evidently shat- 
tered by a former earthquake, and among them you see this 
torso with the figure of a small statue drawn on its back for 
which it was to serve as a block. In front of the temple was 
discovered a skeleton under a broken column, by the falling 
of which it had been crashed. Here in the corner of the Fo- 
rum, next to the temple of Jupiter is the Frison. In it were 
found those two skeletons, with their leg bones still fast in 
the stocks which excited our sympathies so deeply in the 
Museum at Naples. 

This extensive plain building, on the right is supposed to 
have been a public granary, as the measures of capacity of 
which you see the models here were found in its vicinity- 
Contiguous to this building is the spacious Temple of Venus^ 
an oblong structure with its side paralied to the colonade of 
the Forum. It was surrounded by covered porticos, suppor- 
ted on forty-eight stuccoed columns. On this altar in the 

12* 



164 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

centre of the court the ashes of the victims were found when 
it was nxcavated. A flight of fourteen steps leads to the 
vestibule behind whieh is a small cella in which were found 
statues of Venus and Hermaphroditus. This inscription sig- 
nifies that M. H. Rufus, and C. J. Posthumus, duumvirs, 
made some repairs here at the public expense. Some frag- 
ments of bronze and marble statues were found in this tem- 
ple, but nothing of any great value. It seems pretty well 
settled by antiquarians that the Forum was excavated by 
the Romans, which accounts for the few articles of value that 
have been found here. 

By crossing the narrow stre^ v/hich leads into the Fo- 
rum, we come to this immense structure which measures two 
hundred feet in length, by seventy in width. It is the Basili- 
ca or court-house, which is supposed to have been used also, 
as an Exchange. These twenty-eight Corinthian pilasters 
supported one side of the galleries, which surrounded the 
building, and rested on the other side on an equal number 
of columns of the same order, curiously built of brick and 
stuccoed. This is the tribunal or seat for the Duumvir, or 
judge, raised about seven feet, and adorned with six Corin- 
thian Columns. Under this is the temporary prison or bar 
where prisoners were secured during their trial. These holes 
in the floor of the tribunal communicating with this place of 
confinement were probably designed for the purpose of con- 
veying directions from the Judge to the Sheriff, who had 
charge of the prisoners. Upon this pedestal before the tribu- 
nal was an equestrian statue, fragments of which were found 
near it. Here in these columns you see again the evidences 
of repairs that were in progress at the time of the catastrophe, 
that overturned the city. The injuries that were being re- 
paired, are supposed to have happened by the earthquake 
of 63. No reasonable conjecture can be given of the uses of 
these three brick buildings at the end of the Forum. The 
middle one was either never finished or was undergoing re- 
pairs. Here opposite these buildings, in the centre of the 
South end of the Forum, is a Triumphal Arch. This pe- 
destal, from its inscription, must have supported a statue of 
one of the Sallust family, and this one is inscribed with the 
letters : "C. Cuspio C. F. Pans^." 



HfOTES OP TRAVEL. 165 

On the corner directly opposite the Basilica is another large 
edifice whose use is not all known. Running along the 
Street of the Silversmith, on this side of the Forum, is this 
very spacious structure known as the Crypto Porticus, and 
Chalcidicum of Eumachia. From the inscription over the 
entrance from this street it appears that "Eumachia the 
Priestess constructed this building at her own expense, in 
her own name, and that of her son, dedicating it to Concord, 
and appropriating the Chalcidicum to the use of the Fullers." 
In gratitude for which the Fullers erected this statue to her, 
in a niche in the interior of the building with this inscription 
on the pedestal: Eumachia, L. F. Sacred. Publ. Ful- 
iONEs. Besides the arrangements of a large basin supplied 
with water, scouring blocks, &c. &c., for the use of the Ful- 
lers, provision appears to have been made for holding a 
market, (perhaps of cloth) and public meetings for the trans- 
action of business in winter and in bad weather. This is a 
magnificent court a hundred feet long and fifty wide, border- 
ed by porticos supported on forty-eight exquisitely finished 
columns of Parian marble. This flight of steps you see was 
unfinished, but Ciie marble slabs designed for them lie here 
ready, and this one was marked with a black line in char- 
coal to direct the chisel of the sculptor. It really seems as if 
the workmen had just dropped their tools and gone to din- 
ner ! In this Thermopolium (coffee-house) in the Crypto 
Porticus, was found that beautifully wrought urn for the pre- 
paration of Calida, which you remember in the Museum, 
and which strongly resembles those of the present day, ex- 
cept that it is much more complicated. This representation 
of a false door, painted on the wall to correspond with one 
actually existing on the opposite side of the building, shows 
that the doors of the ancients were panelled like those of 
modern times. 

The next building is the small Temple of Mercury^ or 
perhaps more properly of Romulus. It consists of a quad- 
rangular court, surrounded by brick walls, and a small cella, 
elevated nine or ten feet, containing a pedestal for a statue. 
On the pavement stands a pretty altar of Parian marble, upon 
which is a beautiful basso-relievo, representing a sacrifice*' 



186 irOtES OF TRAVEL. 

This semicircular building adjoining the temple, is open to 
the Forum, and is provided with seats in masonry, and nich^ 
es for statues. It is supposed to have served as a Council 
Chamber. Next to this building is the great temple called 
the J^antheon, measuring one hundred and eighty feet in 
length. In its centre is the principal altar, surrounded by 
twelve marble pedestals which supported the statues of the 
twelve jDu Magni (greater deities) of the ancients. No ves* 
tige of these statues has been found, which accords with the 
idea that previous excavations had been made. These peo- 
ple lacked the Yankee enterprise, or they would forthwith 
have disinterred the whole city. These twelve chambers on 
the right side were occupied by the priests, and at the ex- 
treme end is an mdicula or sanctuary, with niches, in which 
were found statues, and an arm and hand grasping a 
glove, supposed to have belonged to a statue of Au- 
gustus. On the right of the sanctuary you see this small 
triclinium, or dining room, also for the use of the priests; 
and on the left is another chapel, provided with several mar- 
ble altars. Near this spot were found a thousand bronze and 
forty-six silver coins. How beautifully the whole of the 
walls of this splendid edifice are painted, with all possible 
varieties of subjects ! The grace and elegance of these arab- 
esques are delightful, and the colours brilliant and rich, and 
as fresh apparently as the day they were put on. What a 
pity it is that the art of preparing this elegant transparent 
varnish, which has so perfectly withstood the charges of eigh- 
teen centuries, should be lost ! In the numerous small shops 
in the immediate vicinity of the Pantheon, were found an 
immense number of very curious and interesting articles. 
Among these were the bronze inkstands, containing tlje tra- 
ces of ink, the large and curious pastry mould, the elegant 
little winged statue of Victory, decorated with a gold brace- 
let enriched with a precious stone, loaves of bread with the 
maker's name stamped upon them, the elegant vase with 
.four handles, and that beautiful .lamp with three burners and 
chains to suspend it by, which we saw in the Museo Borbo- 
nico. Great quantities of the remains of vegetables for culi- 
iiary purposes were also found here. In a house near thifi 



KOTES OP TRAVEL. 167 

was also discovered that splendid gold bracelet, composed of 
representations of twenty-two half nut-shells. This is called 
the house of Venus and Mars, which you see contains a 
well, said to be more than a hundred feet deep, and furnish- 
es very good water. This house with the pretty frescos was 
occupied by a Physician, for in it were found surgical instru- 
ments, drugs in a wooden box, and the marble mortars and 
pestles which we saw at the Museum. 

We will now return through the Forum, and go down the 
fine wide Street of the Silversmiths, which is lined mainly 
with shops. Here on the walls of the Chalcidicum you see 
notices of fetes, plays, &c., and public ordinances written in 
red paint. On a wall in this narrow lane you see represen- 
tations of many of the Gods, painted in fresco of the most 
brilliant colours, and below them are seen serpents, the tute- 
lary deities of Pompeii. Many of the houses in this street, 
bear the names and business of the occupants inscribed in 
red paint on the sides of the doorways. In this house on 
our right were discovered a great many valuable articles in 
bronze and silver, and the remains of salt fish which retained 
its smell, the skeletons of a man and a woman, the latter hav- 
ing two gold bracelets on one arm, and the linen purse contai- 
ning twenty-seven gold and fifty silver coins which we saw 
at the Museum so well preserved. In a subterranean vault 
opposite the House of Caroline were found several skeletons 
with a number of valuable articles, and among the rest six- 
ty-eight gold and over a thousand silver coins. This arch or 
portico supported by six columns, leads to the Triangular 
Foriun, and was adorned, as appears from the inscription on 
this pedestal, by a statue of Marcus C, Marcellus son of 
Caius, Patron of Pompeii. Here in the centre you see a fine 
fountain of travertino. Three sides of the area of this forum 
are surrounded by porticos formed of a hundred Doric col- 
umns. Near the lower end are the ruins of the Temple of 
Hercules, which appears to have been, from the style of its 
architecture, an edifice of great antiquity. In this forum 
were found several skeletons, some coins and numerous other 
articles of value. In a neighboring house were found, among 
.cither things, what you remember to have seen in the Musa^ 



168 NOTES OP TRAVEL. 

urn : — leaden plummets, a measure at out a foot long that 
doubles up, the elegantly finished round metallic mirror, and 
the remains of several bronze and bone wind intruments. 
This reservoir close by the theatre is supposed to have served 
for water (often scented with perfnmes) with whiclr the aw- 
nings were sprinkled. This structure is conjectured to have 
been a Tribunal in which justice was administered by the 
magistrates. It is an oblong court surrounded by porticos 
having in its centre a high platform, the Palpitum or bench 
upon which the judge sat, with an altar in front of it, upon 
which the witnesses were sworn. Between this and the tra- 
gic theatre you see this large reservoir, fed by the Sarnus, 
which supplied this part of the city with water. 

On the other side of this small court you see the Temple 
of Isis, one of the most curious and interesting edifices in 
Pompeii, from the light that it throws upon the religion of 
the ancients, if indeed such a concatenation of falsity and de- 
ception, and such revolting rites are deserving of that name. 
The building is nearly square measuring sixty by seventy 
feet, and over the entrance you see this inscription which 
says that, ^'Numerinus Podidius Celsinus, son of Numerinus, 
restored from the foundation, at his own expense, the shrine 
of Isis, overthrown by an earthquake." The earthquake al- 
luded to is supposed to be that of the year 63. The walls 
of this temple are of brick, stuccoed and painted, and are 
skirted by open porticos, with a court in the centre, where 
are seen a number of marble altars and a small cellu eleva- 
ted on seven steps and once lined with Parian marble. The 
pavement is mosaic. It is provided with niches and a low 
wall or pedestal for the reception of statues. This pedestal 
you see is hollow and is entered by this low opening from 
behind and communicates with secret stairs by which the 
priests entered the statues (which were probably made hol- 
low) and delivered the oracles. On this large altar were 
found the ashes and burnt bones of a recent sacrifice. In 
this niche was found a small statue of Bacchus with a pan- 
ther at its feet. These were partly gilt and partly stained of 
a purple color. In this corner of the portico you see the 
plaster model of the Goddess Isis, the original of which you 



NOTES OP TRAVEL. 169 

Temember in the Museum ; it was also partially gilt. Near 
this was also found the gilt statue of Venus. This is th© 
statue of Orus, the God of Silence, placed in the niche oppo- 
site the oEdicula, for the worship of Isis was conducted in pro- 
found silence and the greatest secresy was observed in its 
mysteries. This was the refectory of the priests, and in it 
was discovered a skeleton near a table upon which were 
chicken and fish-bones, the remains of eggs, wine and bread 
and a faded garland of flowers. In this small kitchen were 
found an iron tripod and various other culinary utensils, and 
the skeleton of a man with a sacrificial axe near it by which 
the individual had cut a passage through two walls and per- 
ished in his attempt to pass the third. The skeleton of another 
priest was found near this who it appears had fled with some 
of the treasures of the temple, for at its side were three hun- 
dred and sixty silver with some gold and bronze coins, wrap- 
ped in a cloth. Many other articles of more or less interest 
or value were discovered in and near this edifice* which you 
remember to have seen in the Museum. 

This small antique building is the Temple of v^sciilaphiSy 
having a cellain the centre elevated upon nine steps in which 
were found statues of ^"Esculapiiis, Hygeia and Priapus. 
The adjoining house was a Sculptors Shop in which were 
discovered the tools pertaining to this art, which we saw in 
the Museum, besides some articles of sculpture in various 
stages of perfection, and blocks of marble^, one of them sawed 
half through with the saw striking in it. This brings us to 
the theatres. The first is called the Small or Comic Thea- 
tre, ar:d is a beautiful structure, built of tufa, and in a per- 
fect state of preservation. The Vi^hole of the stage is finished 
with marble, and the pavement of the Orchestra is composed 
of precious marbles of diiTerent colours, on which an 
inscription is seen in bronze letters about eight inches long, 



♦Hie inventa erat statua Priapi pene cereo maxime attrito usibus vi- 
libus quibus destinatus erat, qiiee nunc collocala repertur in camera 
apeciale Musei Borboniei. Ut singula nova nupta coacta erat suain 
virgifiitatein sscrificere b«nc statue, facile est opinari qi.os abuses ex- 
ticebant sacordot;^s dissolutissimi. Sunt etiam isi isia camera multa 
aha qji® horridissimas imagines depravationis antiquoruiu exhibsnU 



170 KOTES OP TRAVEL. 

and signifies that Marcus 0. Verus, son of Marcus, Duum-~ 
vir for the games, laid this pavement.'' In the Orchestra 
are four rows of seats, divided from the rest by a high para-- 
pet wall, for the accommodation of the magistrates, Patrici- 
ans, and other persons of distinction. The magistrates sat 
upon these magnificent and elegantly finished bronze seats, 
called biceUii, two of which we saw in the Museum, richly 
inlaid with silver. Behind these seats rise seventeen others 
formed of lava and divided into five cunei by six rows of 
stone steps, for the Vulgus profanum. Above this is the 
portico or gallery for females. From an inscription on the 
outside wall it appears that this theatre was roofed, which 
was very unusual among the ancients. It is computed to have 
accommodated fifteen hundred persons. The Gi^eat, or Tra- 
gic Theatre you see was a much more extensive edifice, and 
contained according to calculation, five thousand persons. It 
is considerably dilapidated, and all the marble with which the 
seats and the whole interior was finished, has been carried 
away by previous excavators. The arrangements appear to 
have been very similar to those of the small theatre except that 
it was not roofed. Those projecting marble blocks forming 
loops along the top were for the attachment of the masts to 
which the velarium or awning was fastened, which was 
used for securing the spectators from the sun and rain. The 
building was placed on the side of a hill and so arranged that 
it was entered near its top, which precluded the necessity 
of stair cases. In the neighborhood of the theatres were 
found numerous acbnission tickets of bone, with the rude 
drawing of a theatre on one side, and the No. of the seat on 
the other. 

Behind the theatres you see this oblong space measuring 
several hundred feet in length and a hundred and fifty in 
width, surrounded by porticos, supported on Doric columns 
without bases, formed of tufa stuccoed, fluted above and 
painted red and yellow, the colours so common in Pompeii. 
This is the Forum Nundinarium, supposed to have served 
as a provision market, as well as a caserne or barrack for 
soldiers. Tlie latter is at least its present use, for near th« 
delightful fountain of running water shaded by weeping 



NOTES OF TRATEL^ 17 J 

willows, you see the soldiers of his Neapolitan majesty- 
placed here to guard the city. How refreshing it is once 
more to get a glimpse of something green, and to see a foun- 
tain pouring out water, after having seen so many whose 
sources have been dried up for eighteen centuries ! The nu- 
merous small apartments under the porticos were the sol- 
diers^ lodgings, and you observe them, as well as some of 
the columns, scribbled over with scraps of bad latin and rude 
caricatures and drawings, made to wile away an idle hour, 
just such as we find in modern barracks. This is the guard 
house in which were found four skeletons with their ankle- 
bones still fast in .the stocks. A great variety of articles were 
found in this place mainly pertaining to. military equipments,, 
such as lances, swords,, sword-belts, shields, helmets, (among 
them th& one beautifully finished which we saw in the 
Museum,) fragments of armour, &c. &c. Here were also 
discovered those curious diminutive shields suspended to 
chains, which must have been honorary decorations, crosses 
of honour. In one part was the skeleton of a horse with the- 
remains of harness, and the saddle which we saw in the 
Museum, with the hay with which the cushion was stuffed, 
still distinguishable. Sixty-three skeletons were disinterred 
here, principally of adult males, no doubt of unfortunate sol- 
diers whom the severity of Roman dicipline, did not permit 
to seek safety in flight. 

We will now leave the excavated part of this most inter- 
esting city, and pass over a part of it still entombed, to the 
great Amphitheatre in the South Eastern angle of the walls, 
at. the distance of about a quarter of a mile. Intervening 
you see, and directly over the city, is a fine farm planted 
with Indian corn, mulberry trees and vines. Here are some 
beautiful water-melons ; and as you must be much fatigued, 
let us take a seat in. the shade of this wide spreading elm, 
and try one, of these large, ones, which appears to be per- 
fectly ripe. It is delicious, as. are all melons in^ this Country. 

This is the amphitheatre in a most perfect state of preserva- 
tion, except the stucco which cracked and fell off soon after it 
was excavated. It is of an oval form, 430 feet long, and 335 
wide. It is built of .rough stones, and is.surromaded at its Xo^j 



172 NOTES OP TRAVEL, 

by a wide terrace from which we shall enjoy a magnificent 
view of Vesuvius, the surrounding country, and the Bay of 
Naples in the distance. Now let us enter by this passage, 
which will bring us to the arena. This has two entrances, op- 
posite each other, in the long diameter, which were closed by 
iron gates, one for the ingress of the gladiators, and the oth- 
er for the removal of the dead bodies, and a third narrow 
one in the short diameter for the admission of the wild-beasts. 
Opposite this entrance is the den, also closed by iron gratings, 
in which the wild-beasts were confined. How magnificent 
the appearance is from the arena ! There are thirty rows of 
seats, divided into three ranges by walls running the whole 
circuit of the building, for the accommodation of the differ- 
ent classes of citizens, and the whole is crowned by a grand 
gallery for the females. The seats are divided into numer- 
ous cuneij by stone steps. The amphiiheatre held, by com- 
putation, 20,000 persons, and so ingeniously were the nine- 
ty-six vmniloria, or doors, arranged, that the house could 
be cleared of this immense concourse in two minutes and a 
half! There were but five skeletons found in the amphithea- 
tre, although it is presumed from notices discovered in the 
city, that there was a gladiatorial exhibition here, on the 
24th of August, 79, the day of the fatal eruption. Here 
were also discovered many entrance-tickets of bone, with the 
numbers of the seats marked upon them. I feel much obliged 
to you for the patience you have had with me, in the long 
and laborious investigation v/hich we have made, of this cu- 
rious city of the dead, and we will now proceed te the Nola 
Gate, opposite the Forum Nandinarium, v/here we shall 
find a hack to take us to Naples. The thermometer stands 
at 72° this evening in my room. 

loTii. — I rose at an early hour this morning, after anight^s 
rest that neither the heat of the clim.ate, nor the phantoms of 
departed Romans, which fiitted through my excited brain 
when I first retired, were able to disturb, so much was I 
fatigued, both in body and mind, by the arduous labours of 
my visit to Pompeii. After the enjoyment of that greatest of 
luxuries in a hot climate, a sea-bath, I went to the CalTe 
de I'Europs to take my lait de poule, and there met again 



IffOTES OF TRAVEL, 17S 

with my friends Messrs. Maroiise and Probst, We agreed 
ito visit the catacombs together. After the usual boisterous 
5!cene of hiring a hack on the Largo del Caslello, which 
however was terminated with considerable despatch, thanks 
to our good friend Probst, we drove to the suburbs, in the 
South end of the city, and stopt before the gate of a garden. 
We here found a cicerone^ who provided himself with sev- 
eral torches and led the way. We entered under a dilapida- 
ted arch, and found ourselves in an extensive chamber, 
whose vaulted ceiling was painted in frescos, apparently of 
a very ancient date. From this numerous galleries lead off 
in different directions, lined on both sides from the ground to 
the ceiling with the tombs of the dead, cut in the solid rock, 
ranged one above the other, and very frequently decorated 
with sculptural embellishments. These receptacles or sar- 
cophagi, are closed with m^ason-work, except w^here prying 
curiosity has forced them open, and strewed the remains of 
their tenants over the floor. Many very old Greek inscrip- 
tions, are found on these tombs. After wandering for seve- 
ral hours, and to a great distance in this subterranean char- 
nel-house we made our exit, and were delighted once more 
to breathe the fresh and perfumed air of the garden, at its 
entrance. 

After dinner and a siestay I took my usual stroll in the 
Villa Reale, to see the world, and enjoy the sea-breeze. 
The king and queen in a coach and six, followed by five or 
six royal equipages, were on the Chiaja. His majesty is a 
fine looking man, of about 35 or 40 years of age. At the 
Catfe di Napoli, where I took my ice this evening, I again 
met with Dr. Abeken the archaiologist, to whom I had been 
introduced by my friend Mr. Martins, and spent a very plea- 
sant hour with him. On returning to my hotel this evening, 
I retired to my chamber, which looks into a narrow street 
of considerable length, and which to my great surprise, I 
found lighted up through its whole extent, with hundreds of 
small lanterns formed of differently colored paper. I at once 
called my landlord to ascertain the meaning of it. "0, it ia 
nothing but the annual fete of the patron saint of the street,^' 
said he, '^which they are celebrating.^' The effect of 

13 



174 2^0TES OF TRATEL, 

the coloured light from the lanterns, arranged in festoons an^ 
other fanciful figures, was to me novel and beautiful. Th» 
fete was continued three days and three nights, during which 
time all labour in that street was suspended, and nothing 
was heard but music, dancing and merriment. These fetes. 
I afterwards ascertained, are common both here and in Rome. 

You would be delighted to see the immense quantities of 
fine fruit, already in the markets in this city. Water-melons, 
musk-melons, peaches, plums, apricots, cherries, figs, fresh al- 
monds, kc. &c., all surprisingly cheap. The thermometer 
rose to 90 degrees to-day, but the evenings are always 
cooled by the sea-breezes, 

17th, — I rose at 6 o'clock and went through the usual 
routine of a sea bath and lait depoule at the Caife de I'Eu- 
rope. After breakfast I went in search of a countryman,, 
who, Mr. Hammet, our consul had informed me, lodged at 
the Hotel de Russie. I found a tall gentlemanly looking 
young man in a gray blouse taking his coflee, and introduced 
myself unceremoniously as an American. He was a Mr. 
Cochran from New York, and received me with that hearty, 
imaffected kindness common to our countrymen abroad. I 
spent an hour delightfully with him, and then repaired with 
my friend Mr. Marouse, to the Museum to which the morn- 
ing was devoted. After dinner, Mr. M. and myself paid a 
visit to the Royal Botanic Garden^ to which I had received 
a ticket of admission from Prof. Tenore, who is the director. 
It is pretty extensive, finely, laid out and classed according 
to the Linnsean System. I was much interested in the ex- 
tensive collection of tropical plants which it contains, and 
among the rest a Siphonia Elastica (the tree that yields the 
gum elastic) about 20 feet high. Temperature in my room 
at 5 P. M. 87 degrees. 

IjBth. — This is Sunday. The shops are more generally 
closed than in Paris, nor are there so many persons seen pur- 
suing their avocations. I paid a visit to St. Paul's, the finest 
church in Naples. It is surmounted by a magnificent dome, 
copied from tlie Pantheoii at Rome, supported by superb po- 
lished columns of breccia. The altar is incrusted with jasper, 
lapis lazuli, and other precious stones, and the marble 



NOTES OF TRAVEL. 175 

pavement is elegant. I next called on Mr. Cochran, who 
had left me a polite note to accompany him to church at the 
chapel of the British embassay. He introduced me to his 
friend Mr. Hill, an invalid Englishman, with whom he had 
been travelling for some time, and to whom he manifested a 
degree of kindness and attention that gave me the most ex- 
alted opinion of his benevolence. The chapel is very neat, 
and we heard a ver}^ good sermon, badly delivered to a 
small congregation. This afternoon we made an excursion 
to the beautiful palace of Capo de Monte, situated on an ele- 
vated site just beyond the city. The charming and luxuriant 
gardens and park were thrown open to the public, and were 
crowded with throngs of persons enjoying the balmy air of 
an Italian evening. I returned with my two friends to their 
lodgings and spent a delightful evening with them, arrang- 
ing a plan to visit Caserta to-morrow. I am delighted with 
my hotel, where I meet with a great number of Swiss, v/ho 
hail me with great zeal as a fellow republican, and I assure 
you I reciprocate the feeling with the greatest warmth in this 
land of oppression. 

19th. — I rose at 5 o'clock and went to the Hotel de Rus- 
sie, according to agreement, to meet Messrs Cochran and 
Hill, for our proposed excursion. I found the coach ready 
but my friends still in bed. I ordered the driver to call for 
me at the Villa Reale, where I repaired to get my breakfast. 
We left the city at 7 A. M. and reached Caserta, a distance 
of 1 3 miles, about ten, after passing through the most luxu- 
riant and charming country I have ever seen. Immense 
crops of Avheat are raised in this district which is already 
harvested and being threshed by numerous oxen on large 
threshing-floors prepared in the fields after the ancient cus- 
tom. Hemp is also a common product and grows very lux- 
uriantly. Large districts are seen planted with n-mlbeiTy- 
trees, (Morns Alba) for feeding silk worms, and luxuriant 
vines are arranged in beautiful festoons from tree to tree, be- 
neath which are cultivated rich crops of wheat, Indian corn, 
melons, hemp, &C.5 &c., producing an appearance of greater 
luxuriance than any thing I could have imagined. We also 
observed many olive plantations, the delicate light green of 



176 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

whose foliage contrasted beautifully with the deep rich co- 
lour of the Indian corn, the mulberry-trees and the hemp, 
with here and there a cluster of the graceful palm-trees. 
After arriving at the small town of Caserta, we ordered our 
dinner to be prepared at a certain hour, and then drove sev- 
eral miles farther to viev/ the stupendous modern aqueduct, 
built of brick, which supplies the Royal Palace and grounds 
with water. It is considered a chef d'oeuvre of art, and toAV- 
ers, in some places, to a great height, being supported on 
three series of arches one above the other. On our return 
we stopt at the gate leading to the Park and the Palace, 
which we proceeded to examine after having sent our coach 
to Caserta to await us. This palace is said to be in point of 
size and style of architecture, the finest in Europe. Its 
length is 803 feet, its width 623, and its height over 100 
feet. Its walls are truly gigantic, measuring at least 9 feet 
in thickness at the base, and enclose four magnificent courts. 
Its exterior is decorated with superb columns of ^zg/Zo antico 
(a kind of beautiful yellow marble) and the great stair-case 
is magnificently grand. The apartments are finely propor- 
tioned, and elegantly finished, but they are meanly furnished. 
The grounds are rather grand than beautiful, except their 
supply of water, which is very abundant, and the arrange- 
ment imposing. On our way to the town we took occasion 
to visit the Royal Silk Manufactory of St. Leucio. The pro- 
cesses are conducted very much in the same manner as those 
I described to you in France. The cocoons are not as large 
as many I have seen at home, and sell for Sh carlini, (about 
QS cts.) for a weight of 32 ounces, and reeled silk is worth 
3 dollars per pound of 12 ounces. 

20te. — I rose at 6, and after a bath and breakfast, called 
on Mr. Cochran, who accompanied me to Mr. Parate, with 
whom I concluded a wriUen coniract to convey me to Rome. 
The distance is I 'JO miles, to be performed in three days, and 
the price agreed upon is ten scudi (SlO,) tout comprit ; that 
is, breakfast of bread and coffee (which I bargained for at the 
suggestion of Mr. C.) dinner, good lodgings and of course, 
(he fare. After making some small purchases I returned 
home, dined and packed up my effects; for to-morrow at 4 



NOTES OF TRAVEL. 17T 

P. M., I set out for Rome ! As I found I had sufficient time, 
I agreed to accompany Dr. Aubeken and his friend Dr. Rath- 
geber, in another visit to Pompeii. We set out at 5 P. M. 
with the intention of spending the night at Torre della Nun- 
ziata, that we might have the benefit of the coohiess of the 
morning for our visit. Having missed the cars on the rail- 
road, we hired a hack, but the coachman drove so furiously 
that he broke down his horses at a distance of two miles from 
the place, and we were obhged to walk the remainder of the 
road. We found a very good hotel in Torre della Nunzia- 
ta, where we met with a young Russian architect, of much 
intelligence aud fine address, and who spoke, as is usual 
with Russians, several modern languages fluently. He has 
resided here for some time for the purpose of making draw- 
ings in Pompeii, and some that he showed us were beauti- 
fully executed. 

2 1st. — ^We rose at an early hour, and arrived at Pompeii 
on foot about 5 A. M. The morning was delightfully cool, 
and my visit was rendered ten fold more interesting by the 
rare advantages 1 enjoyed, of the explanations of my friend 
Dr. Aubeken, who is an accomplished archaiologist, and had 
absolutely lived in Pompeii for some time. A detailed ac- 
count of this curious city I have already given you. In go- 
ing from Torre della Nunziata, to Torre del Grecco, we 
mounted one of those curious two-wheeled curricles common 
about Naples, and of which I will bring you a drawing. 
We arrived in Naples about noon, after a morning spent 
with the most intense delight and interest. At 3. P. M. I 
stept into the coach, bag and baggage, and turned my back 
upon the beautiful and interesting city of Naples, that *'pa- 
radise inhabited by demons,^' and set my face toward Rome, 
the fallen mistress of the world. Our passengers were two 
Prussians, (M. Runge, architect, and Dr. George, professor 
in the university of Berlin) on the outside, and two young 
Capucian monks, a Frenchman and myself inside. The 
monks spoke nothing but Italian, but through the medium 
of the Frenchman we were enabled to carry on a conversa- 
tion. When they learned that I was an American, they 
were very inquisitive about my country. They very soon 



178 KOTES OF TRAVEL. 

enquired whether I was a Protestant, and whether I acknowl- 
edged the authority of the Pope ; at which I shrugged my 
shoulders and repUed with decided energy, du tout, du tout. 
They then asked me if I beUeved in transubstajitiation, to 
which I unhesitatingly answered no. Very contrary to my 
anticipation, they continued to treat me, heretic as I was, 
with the greatest attention, and this I attributed mainly to 
the frank and decided manner with which I answered their 
questions, showing them that my error was at least an honest 
one. They were proceeding to Rome to finish their studies 
in the Propaganda^ and there 1 subsequently met with one 
of them repeatedly, who always recognized me with great 
urbanity. We proceeded to Capua, distant 20 miles, amid 
an almost continuous range of gardens and vineyards, of the 
richest luxuriance. At Capua we got an excellent dinner 
and were well lodged. 

2 2d. — Set out at 5 A. M. after a breakfast of bread and 
coflee, for Avliich I had made, at the suggestion of Mr. Coch- 
ran, a special contract and which the rest of the passengers 
had neglected. After a delightful ride through a charming 
country, we arrived at St. Agata at 9 A. M. and rested until 
1 P. M. The road from this to Mola, our next stage, was 
less interesting until we approached the Mediterranean. We 
arrived here at 5 in the evening, and stopt at the Villa di 
Caposele, one of the most delightfully situated hotels I have 
ever seen. It is placed at the top of a high bank, that rises 
from the Mediterranean, which is divided into terraces, 
planted with vines and magnificent orange trees. From the 
porticos of the house, we have a splendid view of the town 
and gigantic fortifications of Gaeta with the graceful curve 
of the luxuriant shore of the sea, presenting a continuous 
succession of vineyards and orange-groves, whose delightful 
odour perfumes the refreshing breath of the cool evening- 
breeze. We have been travelling over the famous Via Ap- 
pia, sometimes on the ancient pavement itself, and shall con- 
tinue to keep on, or near its line all the way to Rome. The 
entertainment at this beautiful hotel is excellent. 

23d. — Set out at 1 A. M., and arrived at Terracina, by 
vay of Fondi and Torre de Confini, at an early hour. At 



"KOTES OF TRAVEL, 17'^ 

the latter place our coach was driven under a covered shed, 
and all our baggage got out and subjected to a visUa, for 
this is the barrier between the king of Naples and his Holi- 
ness, The examination was by no means rigorous, and was 
performed with great delicacy. Our passports were deman- 
ded and examined three times, before his Holiness the Pope, 
was sufficiently assured of our honesty and good intentions, 
to permit us to put foot on his holy domains. 

Immediately before entering Terracina, is a narro w pass 
anciently called Lantidse, formed by a precipitous and rocky 
mountain on one side, and the Mediterranean bathing its 
very foot on the other. This was always very justly consid- 
ered a place of great strength : for I could not see how it 
could be forced, before the invention of fire-arms. As we 
had several hours here at our disposal, we employed them 
in viewing the numerous ruins that exist in and near this 
town, and are very curious, particularly these gigantic ones 
situated high upon the promotory already mentioned. At 9 
A. jM, we resumed our seats, and soon found ourselves upon 
the famous Pontine Marshes. They extend from Terracina 
to Cesterna, a distance of 24 miles, and are very different from 
what I had imagined them to be. Instead of finding marsh- 
€s absolutely, I found a level plane, from three to five miles 
wide, traversed in a straight line by an excellently paved 
road, bordered on each side by a deep canal of clear water. 
It is Vv^atered by several streams, and covered with extensive 
enclosures of the richest pasture, on which are seen grazing 
herds of buffaloes and oxen and troops of fine horses. With 
the exception of dwellings and Icsrge hams, it much resembles 
some parts of Lancaster county, and brought my home more 
strongly to my mind than anything I had seen in Europe, on 
account of the existence of numerous fences. Farm-houses 
and villages are seen on the neighboring heights, from which 
persons descend to labour in the day-time but must fly from 
pestilential emanations, as they value their lives before the 
.sun sets. There are no buildings of any kind upon the 
marshes, except the square stone guard houses, distributed 
along the road at interi^als of about four miles, in which sol- 
diers are stationed to protect travellers against the attacks of 

13^ 



180 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

the banditti who infest lliis part of the road. Our line of 
coaches was robbed but a week or ten days ago, in open day^ 
]ight on the marshes. The tliought of being robbed scarcely 
ever entered my mind daring my travels, even in Italy, for 
by the convenient arrangement of letters of credit, which 1 
have already explained to you, one is obliged to carry very 
little money upon their persons, and my whole wardrobe I 
should have disposed of at a mere trifle ; for what does a trav- 
eller do with more than a sii^iple change and an over-coat ? 
My watch was the only valuable article I had about me, and 
this I should have sacrificed, rather than to have fought with 
a set of desperadoes whose only object of course, was plun- 
der. I consequently avoided all temptation to so foolish an 
act, by refraining from carrying any weapons. It has been 
remarked by travellers that persons feel an irresistible de- 
sire to sleep in passing the Pontine Marshes, which is attri- 
buted to the impure slate of the atmosphere. To indulge in 
this propensity is considered very dangerous to the health. 
I felt this desire powerfully, and, contrary to prescription, in- 
dulged it. I think, in my own case, the disposition to sleeps 
could be amply accounted for, without resorting to the above 
explanation, by the early hour at which we set out, and by 
the monotony of the scenery. Just on the edge of the Pon- 
tine Marshes is Triponti, the Appii Foriiiii mentioned by St. 
Paul, and at 6 P. M. we arrived at Cesterna,the Tres Tiber- 
nx or Three Taverns, where the great apostle met more of 
the brethren, "whom when Paul saw, he took corn-age." 
Here we slept. 

24th. — At 2 A. M. w^e set out again, and came on to Al- 
bano, on the edge of the Campana Romana, through one of 
the most delightful and interesting districts in Italy. The 
road (generally on the track of the Via Appia) is bounded by 
double rows of live-oaks, ehn and beach trees, and leads 
through festooned vineyards, olive plantations, citron and 
orange groves, and the most luxuriant gardens abounding in 
all kinds of fruit and flowers. The first crop of Indian corri 
is nearly ripe, and the second is already two feet higli. After 
spending several hours in viewing the ruins at Alhano, and 
its beautiful lake, we set out on our last stage to Rome, abovtt 



NOTES OP TRAVEL. 181 

whose smoky atmosphere we soon discerned the faint outline 
f)f the towering cupola of St. Peter's! The campana is an 
immense desolate and deserted plain, which is traversed in 
all directions by the stupendous ruins of the ancient aque- 
ducts, whose mouldering arches stride over its surface like sol- 
itary giants, who have oat-lived their age and grown morose. 
My feelings in approaching this renowned city were totally 
indescribable, and resembled a confused but vivid dream I 
We entered by the gate of San Giovanni, and passing the 
church St. John in Lateran, were driven uader the walls of 
the mighty Colloseum and set down in the Dogana Pontiji- 
ca, or custom-house, which is formed of the ruins of a mag- 
nificent ancient temple. The examination of my trunk was 
performed with great delicacy, and my carpet bag was not 
opened, although it was particularly presented to the officers. 
I found excellent lodgings at No. 10, Strada Sibastiani, a 
delightfully quiet, shady little street, immediately under the 
Pincian Hill, and but a iew steps from the fashionable Piaz- 
za di Spagna, and the Via de Condotti. After making my 
toilette, I dined at the Restaurant Lepre, in the Via Condotti, 
and then, according to my usual practice, took a random 
ramble through the city. 

Modern Rome contains about 150,000 inhabitants, is finely 
built on comparatively wide and well paved streets, one of 
which, the Corso, is truly magnificent. It c^ontains upwards 
of 360 churches, the most of them finished in a style of splen- 
dor which I had no conception of. The city seems supplied 
with a great abundance of excellent water, and many of its 
fountains are superb. Interspersed through it, are nume- 
rous piazze or squares, of great elegance, and the number of 
its palaces are estimated at 120. Modern Rome might be 
called the city of obelisks ; for they meet the eye at almost ev- 
ery turn. Independently of the immense number of churches 
that you see in ail directions, you are constantly reminded 
of being in the ecclesiastical capital of the v/orld, by the 
circumstance that you are never out of sight of rehgionists of 
some order or other ; for the city contains 35 bishops, 1490 
priests, 1983 monks, and 1390 nuns. 



182 KOTES OF TRAVEL. 

25th. — This is Sunday. I rose at 05 o'clock, and was oc- 
cupied in writing until the time for breakfast arrived, which 
I took at the Caffe del Greco, Via Condotti. Being desirous 
of going to church, I went in search of Mr. Green, our consul, 
but did not find him in. I next hunted out Messrs. Runge 
and. George, my Prussian travelling companions, with whom 
I paid my first visit to St. Peter's. Had I been blindfolded 
and brought into the §i'e3.t piazza before St, Peter's, and af- 
ter the removal of the bandage, had been asked whether I 
thought it was St. Peter's, I should have replied decidedly in 
the negative. So perfect are the proportions of this great 
temple, that its immensity is not perceived at first sight, but 
the oftener you visit it, the more stupendous does it appear. 
1 spent a number of hours within its precints, with the most 
intense interest. We returned to the Restaurant Lepre to dine, 
and after a siesta and segar, I spent the evening on that magni- 
ficent promenade on the Pincian Hill, constructed by order of 
Napoleon, and in the charming gardens of the Villa Medici. 

.26th. — After breakfast I went again in search of Mr. Green, 
our consul, for whom I had letters and a packet from Gen. 
Cass our minister at Paris. I found him in his library buried 
in piles of books. His manner was stifi'and indifierent, like 
that of a man who had been too long in a foreign country to 
have a proper sympathy for his countrymen. I should mis- 
trust my own judgment in this matter had it not been con- 
firmed by other Americans. I next visited the superb and 
sumptuous church of Santa Maria Maggiore. Before it at 
one end is an Egyptian obelisk, of red granite, 43 feet high 
without the pedestal, and at the other end a beautiful tinted 
column of white Parian marble, taken from the temple of 
Peace. This church is situated on the Esquiline Hill, on the 
site of the temple of Juno Lucina, and is one of the most mag- 
nificent in Rome. It seems to me to be surcharged with gild- 
ing and ornament. IVIany of the chapels and individual ob- 
jects of sculpture are however superb. I next resorted to the 
Forum Romanum, which is now called Campo Vaccino or 
ox-field, for it is filled with oxen, ox-carts, cows, herdsmen, 
cart drivers, &.c. &.c. What a change in the use of this cele- 
brated spot ! 



NOTES OF TRAVEL, 183 

I was astonished to see how much the whole Forum 
has been filled up, and how much the appearance of it must 
have changed. The ancient pavement of the Via Sacra is 
covered to the depth of twelve or fifteen feet. The ancients 
had a curious practice of painting or staining the columns of 
their buildings, as is still very evident in the flutings of the 
three beautiful white marble columns of the temple of Jupi- 
ter Tonans, which are stained of a purple color. The Jirch 
t)f Septimus Severus, is a pretty ruin. It was erected A. 
D. 205, by the Roman people in honor of that Emperor. 

On the left hand side of the Forum, is the magnificent facade, 
the vestibule of the church of San Lorenzo, formed of beautiful 
cipallino columns, that are curiously worn by the action of 
ages, and on it are these words, inscribed in large letters : An- 
tonio ET FAusTiNiE. This temple was erected to the memory 
of the Emperor and his wife, by a decree of the Roman. Senate 
in the year of Christ 168. Near this are the magnificent re- 
mains of the Temple of Peace, erected by Vespasian in the 
year 75, and was considered the most sumptuous temple in 
the world. It was encrusted with bronze gilt, and adorned 
with stupendous columns, a specimen of which, whose shaft 
measures 38 feet in height, stands before the church of San- 
ta Maria Maggiore, to which I have already alluded. But 
perhaps the most interesting object in this most interesting 
spot, is the Jlrch of Titus, built of white Pentelic marble 
and dedicated to Titus by the Senate and people of Rome, 
in honor of his conquest of Jerusalem. It is a single arch of 
pretty proportions, representing on its outside the triumphal 
procession of Titus, and within the arch on one side, this 
General in a car conducted by the Genius of Rome, and on 
the other the spoils taken from the Temple. It is the latter 
which excited the greatest interest, for it is the only authen- 
tic copy of the sacred utensils. Here are represented the ta- 
ble of the show bread, the tables of the law, now nearly 
effaced, the golden candlestick, the jubilee trumpets, incense 
vessels, &c., all of which must have been copied directly 
irom the originals by the sculptor. On the ceiling of the 
arch is represented the apotheosis of Titus, and on the oppo- 
site ^9ade is the following inscription : Senatus Tito Ves- 

PASIANO AuGUSTO. 



3 84 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

At the lower end of the Fornm is situated the Arch of 
Const antine, the best preserved work of the kind now exist- 
ing. Its general construction is elegant, but its sculptural 
ornaments are criticised by artists, except those that were ta- 
ken from the Triumphal Arch of Trajan. 

After dinner I paid a visit to that magnificent specimen of 
ancient architecture, the Pantheon. In the piazza are a 
fountain and an Egyptian obelisk, erected in modern 
times. The vestibule is a stately structure supported on 
sixteen grand columns of oriental granite, consisting of 
single shafts 43 feet high, without the bases or capitals, 
whichare of white marble, and of peculiar beauty. The pedi- 
ment was originally covered with bassi-relievi of bronze gilt, 
and on its frieze is the following inscription — M. Agrippa 
L. F. Cos. Tertium fecit ; for it was built by Agrippa, the 
son-in-law of Augustus, twenty-six years before the Christ- 
ian era. The door-casings, which are the original ones, are 
beautiful. The temple itself is round and forms a dome of 
sublime grandeur, which one never tires in beholding. It 
measures one hundred and fifty feet in diameter exclusive of 
the walls, which are IS feet thick. It has no windows, but 
is lighted from the top by an aperture twenty-six feet in dia- 
meter. The efl^ect of this is truly charming. The walls are 
encrusted with precious marbles. Fourteen elegant Corin- 
thian columns assist in supporting the dome. The pavement, 
which is modern, is a fine piece of work of porphyry and 
gialo antico. The whole interior of the edifice is divided in- 
to three rows of niches, one above the other, for the recep- 
tion of the statues of the deities of different grades. The in- 
ferior range contained the Dii Infernales, the middle one, the 
Dii Minores, and the upper one the Dii Majores. The out- 
side of this magnificent dome was covered with bronze gilt, 
and the beams of its ceiling and those of its portico were 
cased with plates of bronze, which were removed by Urban 
V^III, to form the columns of the baldacchino of St. Peter's, 
and to cast cannons for the Castle of St. Angilo. This gave 
rise to the saying, ''Quod non feccriint Barhari Bomse, fecit 
Barharini^^ for Urban was one of the Barbarini family. 
The Pantheon is now used as a church, and is known u^ider 
the name of the Cliurch of the Rotunda. 



NOTES OF TRAVEL. 185 

I this evening was so fortunate as to find Mr. Manchinel- 
li, to whom I had a card from Mr. Cochran. He is a Ro- 
man by birth, but has become an American citizen. He is 
a staunch repubUcan, and manifests a strong affection for 
his adopted country, which would be grateful to the feelings 
of a patriot at home, but is much more so in a distant and 
•oppressed land. We took some iced chocolate, which is a great 
delicacy, and segars, and spent a delightful evening to- 
gether. 

27th. — Rose at an early hour, and commenced arranging 
my plans for the day, when Dr. George called on me, and 
we agreed to go together. After my usual breakfast at the 
Gaffe del Greco, of bread and coffee (for they have no but- 
ter in this country) which costs five cents, weset out to visit 
some of the churches. 

Santa Maria della Vittoria is enriched with beautiful 
pilasters of Sicilian jasper, and one of the chapels is painted 
by Domenichino, whose works are always attractive. It al- 
so contains several Guidos. In point of architecture it is 
considered one of the most beautiful churches in Rome. Di- 
rectly opposite this church is the pretty Fountain of Ter- 
mini. In the centre is a statue of Moses, and on the one 
side is a basso-relievo representing Aaron leading the Israel- 
ites to the water, and on the other is Gideon directing them 
to pass the Jordan. 

Paid another visit en passant, to the sumptuous church of 
Santa Maria Maggiore, which I still consider overcharged 
with ornament. The magnificent church of St. Giovanni in 
Laterano is denominated by the Catholics, '^ Ecclesiarum 
urbis et orbis mater et capitt,^^ the mother and head of the 
churches of the city and of the world. The first building 
was erected by the Emperor Constantine in the year 324, 
within the precincts of his own palace, which was ceded by 
him to the sovereign pontiffs, and they occupied it up to the 
14th century ,when the Papal seat was removed to Avignon. 
In 1308 it was burnt down, and the same year the founda- 
tions of the present splendid edifice were laid. A succession 
of Popes lavished their wealth upon its erection and embel- 
iishmsnts, during a period of about four centuries. It ii 



186 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

divided into five naves by four rows of beautiful pilasters. 
The central or large one contains statues of all the Apostles 
by different sculptors, none of them however are remarkable. 
The pavement is in mosaic and very elegant. The altar of the 
Holy Sacrament is in very splendid. It is adorned with four 
magnificent antique columns of bronze gilt. Near the great 
altar in the middle nave are two superb columns of red gran- 
ite, and near one of the doors are two columns of giallo an- 
tico, considered the finest specimens of tiiis marble in exis- 
tence. The tabernacle is a splendid piece of workmanship. 
The tomb of Clement XII is a beautiful porphyry urn that 
was found in the portico of the Pantheon and supposed to 
have been the tomb of Marcus Agrippa. The top of the 
edifice is surmounted by numerous statues, and in the porti- 
co is a colossal statue of Constantine found in the ruins of 
his baths. Among the most important relics in this church 
are the heads of St. Peter and Paul !"* In the piazza before 
the church stands the largest obelisk now in existence, mea- 
suring 99 feet in height, of a single block, and is covered 
vvith hieroglyphics. It once belonged to the temple of the 
Sun at Thebes, whence it was transported to Rome by the 
son> of Constantine. The cross on its lop is elevated 14 3 feet 
above the pavement. The Baptistry is a small octagonal 
edifice, near the church built by Constantine. One descends 
by three steps to the baptismal fount, which appears to have 
been an ancient sarcophagus, in which it is said the Empe- 
ror was baptized. The dome is supported on fine prophyry 
columns, and the walls are painted. Opposite the baptistry- 
is an edifice with an open front, enclosed by iron railings. 
In it is the Scala Sancta, (holy stairs) said to have belonged 
to the palace of Pilate in Jerusalem, and to have been as- 
cended by Christ. It consists of twenty-eight steps of white 
marble, with a small chapel at its top, which are ascended 
and decended by the faithful on their knees. So much were 
these steps worn by the devout, that one of the Popes was 



*M. De Steudhal a French Catholic in his Fromenades dans Borne, 
speaking of these relics refers to the ''excellent Irealise" of Misson of 
Lyons, a Protestant who wrote in 1680, and who he says really inku 
the mater nf mirada and relics seriously, [nu serieijx!] 



KOTES OF TRAVEL. 187 

obliged to have them covered with planks, in order to pre- 
serve them. On the side of this building are some very cu- 
rious old mosaics. 

The church of Santa Croce in Gerusalemvie is mainly 
celebrated for containing a part of the cross brought from 
Jerusalem by St. Helena, whence it also derives its name. 
The high altar is adorned with fine columns of a rare and 
beautiful material, called breccia Corallina, and the pave- 
ment is antique. The vases for holy water contain fish 
sculptured in marble. Near this church are some stupen- 
dous remains of the Claudian aqueduct. The haldacchinOj 
in the church of St. Frassede^ is supported on beautiful por- 
phyry cohimns, and the steps leading to it are of immense 
masses of rosso antico, a rare and beautiful material. Here 
is shown the column to which our Saviour was tied when un- 
dergoing fiagellation. 

We returned about 3 o'clock in the afternoon to the Res- 
taurant Lepre, to dine. This restaurant is perhaps the most 
frequented in Rome. It is here where you find the greatest 
variety of character, for it is the rendezvous of nearly all the 
young artists in the city. There is a separate apartment ap- 
propriated to each of the principal nations of the world, an 
arrangement which is really admirable and highly worthy of 
imitation in other places. You thus become at once acquain- 
ted with all your countrymen in Rome, and if you have a 
disposition to make acquaintances among the other nations, 
you have only to change rooms. I ^^iQiQi fraternizing with 
the Germans, as the Americans are placed with the English, 
(from the circumstance of their speaking the same language,) 
and for them I have but little affection. After segars and 
siesta, I strolled out upon the Corso, to observe the grands 
-mondo. It was crowded with beautifal equipages, and a 
dense and motley concourse of pedestrians. As the carriages 
are generally open caleshes, there is a good opportunity of 
observing the people. The ladies bear a strong resemblance 
to those of N^.ples, are inclined to embonpoint, and have good 
complexions and regular features. Their large black eyes 
and long eye-lashes, give the expression an air of melancholy 
which is very agreeable. The fashionable drive is along 



188 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

the Tiber beyond the Porto del Popolo, to the Ponte Moll?. 
through the Villa Borgehse, or along the Pincian Hill. 

There was some lightning this evening, but we have had 
no rain ever since I have been in Italy, nor have I scarcely 
seen a cloud above the horizon. I have suffered very little 
from the heat in this country, for the nights are always cool, 
except several days in Naples, during the prevalence of the 
Sirocco, which was decidedly the most intense natural heat 
I have ever experienced. I find the numerous churches in 
this city, which are always open, a great convenience in guard- 
ing against the high temperature of this climate. They are 
found at every step, are always delightfully cool, and gener- 
ally contain a sufficient number of objects in the way of 
architectural embellishments or the fine arts to interest you 
for the time. I like the Romans much better than the Nea- 
politans, for they are much more quiet and civil, and less 
disposed to overreach you. 

2Sth. — After an early breakfast, I called on my friend Dr. 
George, and after some difficulty, we arranged our plans for 
the day. The Arch of Septimus Seuenis in Velabrum, is a 
well preserved rain, and is curious for the manner in which 
the bassi-relievi and inscriptions in honor of Geta were effaced 
by the wretched fratricide Caracaila. The ^.^rch of Janus 
Quadrofrons, is a large square structure, with an arch on the 
four sides, built of immense blocks of v*'hite marble. It is 
supposed to have served as a market-house. Vv'e now de- 
scended to the banks of the Tiber, to see the outlet of the 
Cloaca Maxima, so famed in the histories of Rome. The 
river being very low, afforded us an excellent opportunity to 
examine it. Great as has been the boast of this work, it can- 
not be compared to many constructions of modern date, for 
it did not originally measure more than about 13:^ feet, (IS 
Palmar) in heighth and width. Its durability, however, is 
undeniable, as it has withstood the ravages of nearly 2500 
years. — Near this is the Church of Santa Maria in Cosine- 
din, built on the ruins of an ancient temple, part of whose 
beautiful structure still remains. In the portico is an antique 
marble mask of immense dimensions. — A little farther on is 
Ihe TiTTipU of Vesta, now the Church of Santa Maria dsl 



NOTES OF TRAVEL. 189 

Sole, absolutely one of the most beautiful remains of antiqui- 
ty; which, like the Pantheon, one never tires in contempla- 
ting. It is a circular edifice, surrounded by 20 beautifully 
fluted Corinthian columns of white Parian marble, resting on 
a platform ascended by a flight of circular steps. Within the 
portico formed by this colonnade, is the cella, also construc- 
ted of Parian marble, so exquisitely joined that it appears 
like one solid piece. The roof of brorze has been removed, 
and one of tiles substituted. — On the opposite side of the Ti- 
ber are the remains of the Pons Senatorius, a bridge ex- 
tending by several arches half across the river. It was built 
by Scipio about a century and a half before the Christian era. 
I have observed a curious mode of fishing in the Tiber by 
machinery. There are tide-wheels erected in the streams, 
which revolve slowly, and to arms extending at right angles 
from their periphery, are attached nets, which dip slow- 
ly under water at each revolution, and empty themselves 
as they come to the top of the wheel. — We next went to the 
Porta St. Paolo, to see the Tomb of Cains Cestius. It is a 
pyramid built of hewn stones, and measures 113 feet in height, 
and each of its four sides is 69 feet long. It is in perfect re- 
pair, and is an imposing object. By its side is the English 
burying-ground. Spent the afternoon again in St. Peter's ; 
about which, and the Colosseum, which I have also visited 
very frequently, I will tell you before I leave Rome. 

It is curious to hear people counting the hours of the day, 
from 13 — 18—20 up to 24 o'clock. The Siesta in Rome at 
this season continues from about 11 A. M. to 3 P. M. during 
which period the city wears the silence of midnight ; ail the 
shops are closed and all business is suspended, and nothing 
is heard in the streets save the solitary foot-fall of the stranger. 

29th. — After an early breakfast I set out on the day's 
work with no other companion than Mad. Stark, (my guide- 
book.) The Forum of Trajan is partially excavated, and 
in its centre stands that elegant and magnificent monument 
of ancient art, the historic Column of Trojan, the most beau- 
tiful piece of work of its kind ever constructed. It is of the 
Doric order,* built of immense blocks of white statuary 
marble, joined together with bronze clamps. It measures 1 \ 

14 



190 SOTZS OP TRAVEL. 

feet in circumference at the bottom, and 132 in height. It is 
embellished to its top by splendid bassi-relievi representing 
the battles of Trajan, to whose honor it was erected by the 
Senate and People of Rome about the beginning of the sec- 
ond century. It was surmounted by a statue of that Empe- 
ror in bronze gilt, which has been replaced by a statue of 
St. Peter. 

The ruins formerly called the baths of Pavlus JEmeliv^y 
are now supposed to have been baths and shops belonging 
to the Forum of Trajan. This was the Palace, of the Caesars! 
Here was the Damns Jiurea of Nero, whose " triple portico," 
Suetonius says, " was supported by a thousand coknnns, with 
a lake like a little sea, surrounded by buildings which resem- 
bled cities. It contained fields, vineyards, pasture-ground and 
groves, in which were all descriptions of animals, both wild 
and tame. Its interior shone with gold and mother-of-pearl. 
In the vaulted roofs of the eating-rooms were machines of 
ivory which turned round, and, from pipes, scattered flowers^ 
and perfumes on the guests. The principal banqueting-hall 
was a rotunda, so constructed that it turned round night and 
day, in imitation of the motion of the earth." * * * But the 
music and the revel is hushed, and this sumptuous dwelling- 
of the rich, and the great and the powerful, is literahy a 
mountain of ruins, covered with the clustering vine and the 
funeral cypress ! Roma fuit I 

Opposite to these gigantic ruins, on the Celian Hill, is the 
church of San Gregorio sul Monte, built on the foundations 
of a patrician house, whose form is accurately preserved. 
From its vestibule is a beautiful view of the whole Palatine 
Hill, with its immense ruins. In one of its chapels are tho- 
two rival pieces, in fresco, of Guido and Domenichino, one 
representing tlie flagellation and the other ihe martyrdom of 
St. Andrew. The great Circus Maximum, which was suf- 
ficiently capacious to contain 150,000 persons, is nothing but 
a ruin whose traces are barely visible. I should never have 
fully conceived of the annihilating ravages of time had I nev- 
er visited Home ! The Portico of Octavia, built by Augus- 
tus as a place of shelt'^r for the people from ifSe rain, and 
dedicated to his sister Octavia, was an immeiiso and 



-S-OTES OP TKAVEL, 1191 

raagmficent structure, supported on 300 columns of white 
5RarbIe finely fluted, a number of which still remain. Their 
^capitals are beautifully decorated with the Roman eagle. 
The remains of the Theatre ef Marcellus, which held 30,000 
persons, is a grand ruin. 

I next paid a visit to the Jeto^s Quarter, a low, dirty, filthy 
situation, on the banks of the Tiber, crowded to an excess, of 
which I could not hav« conceived without seeing it. It is en- 
'closed by wails entered by two gates only, which are closed 
^very evening at an early hour, and not opened until long af- 
ter sun-rise the next morning. My deepest synipathies were 
-excited, and my heart bled for this unfortunate, this persecu- 
fted people. Only think of a parcel af human beings shut up 
in a place almost as crowded as the famous black hole of Cal- 
«cutta, in this hot, sweltering chmate, reeking with the most 
pestiferous emanations, denied the pure breath of heaven at 
the only time it is attainable in this latitude — in the morn- 
ing and evening! Even the brute creation is seldom denied 
this boon. This is the first time I have had an opportunity 
^f seeing a whole community of this curious and interesting 
|)eople. They are really a noble looking race. Their fine 
heads, rr^gular features, and aquiline noses, to which their 
long flowing beards give great eflect, and their well propor- 
tioned bodies enveloped in a loose eastern costume, are ad- 
mirable. The dark complexion, large black eyes, long eye- 
lashes and noble fecitures of their women are beautiful. I 
^ften resorted to this quarter to see some of the finest speci- 
mens of the human species. 

This afternoon was spent in examining the four apart- 
ments of the Vatican called the Stanze di Raffaello, pain- 
ted by this inimitable artist. As I am no artist, I should not 
be able to convey to you the shadow of an idea of these sub- 
lime productions of the rarest genius, and I will not there- 
fore attempt to inflict a description upon you. I found it 
fiot a little to my advantage to have cultivated an acquain- 
tance with the Swiss Guards of the Pope, who are the keep- 
ers of all the public institutions. It was by their means 
that I was led into the stanze by a private entrance, and thus" 
Ixad an opportunity of making my examinations before the 



}92 KOTES OF TRAVEL, 

general crowd was admitted. As I had entered the VaticaB 
by a private w^ay, I made my exit on the far famed Loggia j. 
instead of having entered by them. These are open galleries 
filled with the sublime works of the masters, including Raph- 
ael, in fresco, and I was grieved to see the greater part of 
them exposed to the weather. Napoleon had ordered them 
to be glazed, but the work remains half finished. 

30th. — I this morning again joined my friend Dr. George, 
and we visited the following objects : The church of Santa 
Maria sopra Minerva, which contains the famous statue of 
Christ, by Michael Angelo, a sublime piece of work. The 
Pantheon is an object that never tires, and I could never 
pass without entering it. Santa Maria delta Valle, whose 
cupola, painted in fresco by Lan franco, is a chef d^amvre. 
Here are the four evangelists by Domenichino, and his St. 
John, which is considered the master-piece of this delightful 
fresco painter, and is said to exceed any thing of its kind ex- 
tant. The Santa Trinita de^ Pellegrini, and San Carlo 
a'Catinari, the latter surmounted by one of the most beau- 
tiful cupolas in Rome, are both splendidly painted in fresco 
by Guido, Lanfranco and Domenichino. It was when stand- 
ing in mute and overwhelming admiration, before such 
sublime efforts of genius, that my thoughts reverted to you 
and all my dear friends. It was then that I most devoutly 
wished for your presence to enjoy with me, w^hat I conceive 
can be only felt under similar circumstances. It is a pure, 
an elevated, a peculiar pleasure, that cannot be described. 
After visiting a number of other churches, we crossed the 
Tiber, and ascended to the church of Sa?! Pic fro in Montorio, 
from which is seen one of the most magnificent views of this 
interesting capital, with its seven hills and stately domes. In 
this neighborhood is also that splended fountain, called Fan- 
tana Vaulina, whose abundant waters gush from its base 
like a mighty river. Rome is most liberally supplied with 
water of an excellent quality. 

We returned to the Restaurant Lepre to dine, where we 
were joined by Mr. Runge, who accompanied us to the charm- 
ing Villa Borghese. The park of this villa, which has a cir- 
cumference of about three miles, has its entrance immediately 



IJOTES OF TRAVEL. 193 

^^Tl the outside of the Porta del Popolo, and extends be- 
yond the Pincian Hill. It is intersected by wide carriage 
ways, finely gravelled, and is the fashionable drive in a sum- 
aner-s evening. It is richly supplied with mimic ruins and 
i.eraples, its dehghtful little lakes give interest to the scene, 
and its gushing fountains raise clouds of spray, which cool 
the air and refresh the groves. It is a charming promenade 
to which I resort very frequently. The palace is richly stored 
with some of the choicest specimens of ancient and modem 
art. I spent the evening delightfully with my excellent 
friend, Mr. Mancinelli, on the Piazza di Spagna, where we 
regaled ourselves with iced water-melon and segars. 

31sT. — I rose at 05 o'clock, and was occupied in my room 
until 8, when I went to the Caffe del Greco, to meet, by ar- 
rangement, Mr. Mancinelli, who promised to accompany me 
to see the Bjs'ilica S.xn Paoll fiiori delle Mura, a most 
•sumptuous church that is being built by the present Pope, 
about two miles out of the city. Many of the Chapels are 
Ijeautifully ornamented with precious marbles, and the gran- 
ite columns which are brought from the Simpleon, a distance 
<jf 500 miles, are magnificent. The short cross only is finish- 
cd, but it has heQn already dedicated by the Pope, the mat- 
ter being thus hastened lest he should die before he could per- 
form this important ceremony. The cost of putting up a tem- 
porary wall for this purpose, was alone 2000 scudil (^2000.) 
We returned to the city and paid a visit to the church Del 
Gesu, belonging to the Jesuits and one of the richest in Rome. 
The columns which adorn the altar, are of lapis lazuli 
iluted with bronze gilt, and tho Deity is repi^esented over the 
altar holding a globe of lapis lazuli about two feet in diame- 
ter, the largest mass of this precious substance ever found ! 
The church was sumptuously decorated with damasked 
silk hangings, and gold cords and tassels for a great fete. I 
here witnessed the dressing of a Bishop. It was curious to 
.see files of soldiers with their muskets and bare bayonets, 
drawn up on each side of the altar to preserve order. We 
■also visited the studios of Messrs. Tadolini and Gibson, the 
&st an Italian, the second an Englishman, and both artists 
^f graat merit. They had in a finished state a number of 



194 NOTES OF TRAVEL^ 

fine objects of sculpture. I here had an opportmifty oT 
witnessing the whole process of this beautiful and interesting 
art, from the modelling in day and plaster mo«lds, through 
the rough blocks of marble just from the quarry, to the last 
delicate touch that finished a goddess or a saint. I was charm- 
ed with Tadolini's Diana drawing an arrow from the neck of 
a fawn, and Gibson's huntsman with his dog In one of the 
shops for the manufacture of mosaics, we saw a most splen- 
did centre-table top of carbonate of copper, from Siberia^ 
measuring six feet in diameter, and one and a half inches thick^ 
for which they asked ^lOQO ! This afternoon I went to see 
the Mausoleum of Jiuguslus^ in the Campus Martins. Af- 
ter having examined the lower part I ascended to its top by 
several pair of stairs, and to my great surprise found a thea- 
tre arranged in the antique style. There were the scena, th& 
arena and the stone Cunei, the Valaria, &c., &c., and the 
play was to be enacted in open daylight. I paid my paoloy, 
(10 cts.) took my seat, and was never so well entertained at 
so cheap a rate. The place was crowded with people of the 
lower class, who behaved with the greatest decorum, and the: 
pe.rformance was really very good. 



AUGUST— 184U 
1st. — This is Sunday. 1 went with Dr. George to ihe- 
chapel of the Prussian Legation, and heard an excellent ser- 
mon. We next paid a visit to SL Pietro in Vincoli to see 
the figure of Moses, the chef d^ ceuvre oi Michael Angelo^ 
and a sublime piece of of work it is. After dinner I went 
with Mr. Runge, to the Piazza Navona a large oblong square 
with a fine fountain in its centre, to witness a curious kind 
of amusement designed for the common people, and practiced 
every Sunday afternoon during the summer season. The 
square occupied the ruins of an ancient theatre, is con- 
cave in its middle, and is capable of forming, when filled 
with water, a lake of considerable size and depth. The wa- 
ter from the fountain is permitted to flow into it until it is 
filled, and the amusement nO'W is to see great numbers of all 
kinds of vehicles, from a common cart to a splendid equip- 
age, filled with people driven round and round through the 



KOTES OP TEAVEI-. 195 

■water, at a furious rate, splashing each otheT as much as 
they can. This attracts great crowds of lookers-on, who seem 
to be in ecstacies of delight. It is an admirable place to strt- 
dy the costumes and manners of the lower classes. Their 
women seem extravagantly fond of gay colours and trinkets. 
I have seen the fingers of both hands filled nearly to their 
eads with flashy brass rings, and even numerous rings upon 
their thumbs. 

2nd. — This has been a day of immense labor and intense 
excitement to me, for after repeated visits, I made the grand 
round of the Vatican. What can I tell you of this immense 
palace, which contains all that is rare, and beautiful, and 
magnificent, and grand in sculpture, painting and architecture, 
after so short a stay here, when it would require literally 
years to become familiar with only a portion of it ] It en- 
closes 22 court-yards, and is computed to contain 5000 sa- 
loons and chambers ! ! Do not start — I have made no error 
in my figures. The statue gallery alone is estimated to be a 
mile in extent, and the hall of the library seems interminable i 
If I were an artist, how much could I tell you of the Last 
Judgment, the Conversion of St. Paul, the Crucifixion of St 
Peter, &c. &c., by Michael Angelo, in the Capella Sistina 
and Paolina ! But after volumes of description and illustra- 
tion, your idea of the Vatican must still fall far short of the 
reality. I also paid another hasty visit to the Capitolium 
this afternoon. You ascend from the city by a grand flight 
of steps planned by Michael Angelo. At the bottom of the 
steps are two lionesses in basalt, of Egyptian workmanship, 
and at the top are two colossal statues, representing Cas- 
tor and Pollux, holding horses, supposed to be Grecian 
sculpture. On the parapet wall on the right and left, are 
some beautiful pieces of statuary called the trophies of Mari- 
us, and at each extreme end is a mile stone. That on the 
left is ancient, and marked the first mile on the Via Appia, 
as appears from its inscription. In the centre of the square 
is the beautiful bronze equestrian statue of Marcus Aurelius, 
once gilt. In front of the steps is the Senator^ s Palace, de- 
signed by Michael Angelo, and has some fine statues in its 
gateway. On the South of the square, is the Palazzo de 

14^ 



198 NOTES OP TRAVEL. 

Conservatori, and on the north the Museo Capitolino both 
containing extensive and rich collections of art. The far 
famed Tarpeian rock would be but an uncertain place from 
which to break criminals' necks at the present day, for it does 
not seem to be more than thirty or forty feet high, and not ve- 
ry steep. On the declivity of the Capitoline Hill, towards the 
Forum, is the church called San Pietro in Carcere, under 
which are the famous Mamertine Prisons, designed by the 
Romans for the punishment of state offenders of distinction. 
They are two horrible dungeons of no large dimensions, 
one over the other, built of immense blocks of lava unce- 
mented, to which there was no access except by a narrow 
hole from the top. It was here, it is said, that St. Peter was 
imprisoned, and that the small spring of water that flows 
from the ground near the column to which the Apostle was 
confined, was miraculously produced in order to enable him 
to baptize the jailor and his fellow prisoners. It was in the 
lower one of these dungeons that Jugurtha was starved to 
death. After making arrangements with L»r. George to go 
to Tivoli to-morrow, and sipping a glass of lemondade at the 
Caffe del Greco, the Babel of Rome, I retired to rest, exces- 
sively fatigued. I had news from home to-day, through the 
medium of the French papers as late as the 3d of July. 

3rd. — Was knocked up at 3h A. M. and set out for Tivoliy 
the ancient Tibitr, distant about IS miles from Rome. We 
passed out through the gate of San Lorenzo, andimmediate- 
ly got upon the ancient Via Tlburtina, upon which we kept 
with few exceptions the whole distance. It is surprising to 
find those Roman roads often still in good repair. The coun- 
try has rather a dreary and desolate aspect, presenting noth- 
ing of interest until we arrived upon the Solfatai^a, within 
five or six miles of Tivoli. It is traversed by a sulphurous 
stream. Our approach to it was indicated long before we saw 
it, by a most nauseous smell of sulphuretted hydrogen. Its 
waters have a milky-white appearance from the quantity of 
sulphur they contain, and hence it was called by the ancients 
Aqiix fibulae. It is precipitated into a lake of considerable 
extent called Lago d' Tariari, all the vegetation on whose 
borders is covered with a singular incrustation. We arrived 



KOTES OF TRAVEL. 197 

at the hotel La Sabilla, in Tivoli about 8 o'clock, and after 
breakfast we engaged a guide, and I hired a donkey for 
myself and set out to examine this interesting place. Its sit- 
uation is charming, and its scenery bold and romantic. I am 
not surprised that it was a favorite resort of Romans of 
wealth and taste, for Sallust, Horace, Macasnas, Varus, Cassi- 
us, and Ovid, had villas here, the ruins of which are still point- 
ed out. There are many points from which the city is distinct- 
ly seen, and the whole intervening country is at your feet. 
There was formerly here a beautiful cascade in the Anio, 
which has however been much impaired by a great fresh- 
et in 1826. The Temple of Vesta, a ch'cular edifice, on the 
brink of a very high precipice over the Grotto of Neptune, 
is a beautiful ruin. In this same ravine is the Grotto of the 
Sibyl, whose temple is converted into a church. The beau- 
tiful promenade called the Circular Terrace, extending about 
four Roman miles, is very interesting. After a very bad 
dinner at a very high price, we set out on foot to visit the 
ruins of the famous Villa of Jidrian, distant about two 
miles, where we ordered our carriage to take us up-. On 
our way we passed through an olive plantation, many of 
whose trees are said to have existed during many centuries. 
They have a very ancient appearance. Never was any- 
thing designed so magnificent, or on so gigantic a scale, 
as this Villa of Adrian, of which he was himself the 
architect. His object was to unite in one point improved 
models of all the most magnificent edifices that had ever been 
constructed; It occupied a space of three miles in length, 
by one in width, and contained theatres, baths, temples, 
porticos and palaces, adorned with all that wasVare, elegant 
and costly in architecture, sculpture and painting. It re- 
quires fully two hours to examine it even hastily. We re- 
turned to Rome at 7 P. M. highly gratified with our day's 
excursion. 

4th. — After a night's rest, which not even the scourge of 
Italy (the fleas) could disturb, I rose at 6, arranged my 
journal and repaired to the Gaffe del Greco, for the double 
purpose of getting my breakfast and reading the news, for 
we are here well supplied with French, German, English, and 



108 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

of course, Italian newspapers. I again met with Dr. George, 
and we set out together to visit some of the remains of the 
Temple of the Sun. These are immense, gigantic ! I mea- 
sured a block of the entablature of beautiful white marble, 
elegantly sculptured, and found it to be 15 feet long, 9 feet 
high, and 5 thick ! Besides the public galleries of sculpture 
and painting in this city, all the palaces are richly stored 
with the choicest specimens of art, and are thrown open to 
strangers with a truly magnanimous liberality. We spent 
the morning in examining two of these, the Palazzo Dorea 
and the Palazzo Rospigliosi. The first contains the finest 
collection of landscapes in the city, or in the world, by the 
greatest masters, and in the latter is the celebrated Jiurora 
of Guido, according to many the most masterly piece of fres- 
co painting in existence, besides many other paintings of the 
greatest merit. 0, that I were an artist to enjoy, and by 
my remarks to m-ake you enjoy, these rich luxuries of art ! 
How much pure, refining, elevating, unalloyed pleasure 
does it give even me, to contemplate these sublime efforts of 
genius, and what must be the feelings of an artist ! He must 
remain, it appears to me, for months in a feverish state of 
intoxication in Rome. After dinner I went to select a set of 
what are called sidphurs, beautiful miniature basso-relievo 
representations of the choicest objects of art in Italy, pain- 
tings as well as sculpture. I purchased a large box of them, 
with which I know you will be delighted. The evening I 
spent with my good friend Mr. Mancinelli, over a glass of 
iced fruit. 

5th. — Met Mr. Mancinelli b}^ agreement, at Ih this mor- 
ning at the ^affe del'Greco. He was kind enough to ac- 
company me to a number of siudii of the artists of this city. 
Sig. Cavalleri is a painter of much merit, and has just finish- 
ed a large picture, representing the presentation of the Queen 
of Sardinia to the Pope. There are seventeen or eighteen 
heads, all likenesses. At the Studio of Sig. Tenerani, we 
were shown several charming pieces of sculpture. A Flora 
with an apron full of flowers ; Psyche fainting, having just 
returned ab infernis ; Cupid extracting a thorn from the fool 
4)f Venus. We also called on Mr. Crawford, the American 



NOTES OF TRAVEL. 199 

sculptor, but he had nothmg finished. We next called on 
that veteran artist Herr Thorwalsden, who as you know is 
a Dane. The exquisite specimens of art, which we here saw 
gave me great pleasure. Jupiter and Apollo, the drapery 
very fine ; the four seasons in basso-relievo ; a nymph with 
a whole nest of young Cupids in her hand, also in basso-re- 
lievo ; a danseuse of great elasticity and grace ; Cupid 
teaching Pan the notes of love, an exquisite group, &c. &c. 
Mr. M. now left me, and I went to the church of Santa 
Maria delta Pace, to see the celebrated Sibyls of Raphael, 
supposed to be predicting the birth of our Saviour. This 
fresco is considered by artists, the sublimest effort of the im- 
mortal painter. Above the Sibyls are four prophets, also by 
Raphael. I returned and dined at the Lepre, where I met 
with Dr. George, and with him spent the afternoon in the 
Vatican. There are infinitely fewer of the lower class of 
persons, who take an interest in these splendid galleries of 
art, in Rome, than in Paris. Indeed there is less interest 
taken in them here by all classes. Spent the evening with 
Mr. Mancinelli at the Caffe Bon Gout, Piazza di Espagna, 
over a cup of iced coffee, which I found excellent. 

6th. — I rose at an early hour and proceeded to the Ponte 
San Angelo by apointment, to meet my obliging friend Mr. 
Mancinelli, who promised to accompany me to the ball of 
St. Peter's. This brings to my mind the promise I made 
you to give you some account of this mighty edifice before 
leaving Rome. But how shall I make you comprehend the 
vastness, the stupendousness, the sumptoousness of an ob- 
ject that is itself the standard of all comparison ? Perhaps by 
comparing its dimensions with objects within your knowl- 
edge. But we will stop a moment to examine the grand 
piazza^ at the end of which St. Peter's is placed. This is a 
magnificent open space beautifully paved, over a thousand 
feet in length by five hundred wide, enclosed on two sides 
by the bold and graceful sweep of the splendid semicircu- 
lar covered colonnade constructed by Bernini, under Pope 
Alexander VII. This colonnade is composed of 384 im- 
mense columns of travertino, and sixty-four pilasters, form- 
. ig three passages, the middle one being wide enough to 



:tOO NOTES OP TRAVEL. 

admit two carriages abreast. The balustrate on its top is 
ornamented with 92 colossal statues. In the centre of this 
piazza stands the great Egyptian obelisk, measuring 136 
feet in height, including the pedestal and cross, which was 
brought from Heliopolis by Caligula and erected in the Cir- 
cus of Nero. On either side of this is a magnificent fountain 
whose pyramids of sparkhng waters descend into basins of 
oriental granite, 50 feet in circumference, and hewn out of 
single blocks. The highest jet is said to rise 6 1 feet. On a 
gentle elevation at the extreme end of this splendid piazza, 
approached by a magnificent flight of steps, stands the stu- 
pendous metropolitan temple of the Catholic world. The 
width of the church is 366 feet, nearly equal to the width 
of one of our squares, and its heighth is 159 feet, or higher 
than the Court House steeple. Its facade is formed of a 
double row of stupendous columns of travertino, measuring 
S feet in diameter and 90 feet in heighth, supporting an im- 
mense entabla.ture which is surmounted by statues of Christ 
and the twelve apostles, of colossal size. The vestibule mea- 
sures 439 feet in length, 37 in width, and 62 in height. At 
one end is the equestrian statue of Constantine, and at the 
other that of Charlemagne. Its vaulted ceiling is splendidly 
painted aud gilt. The great central door of bronze must 
measure 40 by 30 feet, being at least equal to the whole 
front of one of our two-storied houses. The length of the 
great nave or main body of the church is 614 feet, 6r 126 
longer than our longest squares, its width is 82 and its height 
145 feet, so that it would contain 15 of our Court-Houses, 
(calculating tlie height at 50 feet,) three piled upon each 
other, and five set end to end, and would then leave a pas- 
sage all around of sufficient width to let a carriage pass. 
This, please to recollect, is the great middle aisle of the 
church only, or the long part of the Latin cross. The short 
part of the cross measures 500 feet in length, and is of the 
•same heighth with the long part, and would contain twelve 
more buildings of the dimensions of the Court-House, making 
in all 27 ! ! Then you have the side-aisles and chapels un- 
occupied. The dimensions of the cupola are vast beyond 
c£)nception. On some remarks being made in presence of 



NOTES OP TRAVEL. SOI 

Michael Angelo in regard to the size and beauty of the dome 
of the Pantheon, he replied that "he would make as fine a 
dome as that, and suspend it in the air.'' He has kept his 
word literally in the construction of the dome of St. Peter's. 
This gigantic dome rests upon four enormous pillars placed 
at the four angles where the two parts of the cross intersect, 
and are joined to each other by sublime arches. These co- 
lossal pillars measure each 206 feet in circumference, and oc- 
cupy a good deal more space than our Episcopal Church, and 
tower to the enormous height of 166 feet, which is higher 
than the Court-House steeple. The diameter of the dome is 
130 feet, (nearly twice the length of the Lutheran Church,) 
and its whole height is 500 feet, equal to the height of two 
and a half Lutheran Church steeples placed upon each other! I 
To support this vast superstructure the walls of the building 
at this part are 24 feet in thickness. The whole space occu- 
pied by this stupendous edifice is not far short of being equal 
to two of our squares. You ascend to the roof by a stairway 
wide enough tQ admit a carriage, and the ascent is so easy 
that you might readily ride up, at least with a mule. The 
top is surrounded by a high parapet wall, is paved with 
stones, and furnished with a number of lodges for the atten- 
dants, of which I was told there were 300 constantly em- 
ployed in various capacities about the building. You would 
here rather suppose yourself in a considerable town than on 
the top of St. Peter's, the lodges representing the houses, and 
the domes, (for there are three of them) the churches or pub- 
lic buildings. From here you ascend between the outer and 
inner walls of the cupola until you come to a small door 
which opens upon the upper gallery, a projection of mason- 
ry about two and a half feet wide protected by a delicate 
iron railing. — Upon this apparently insecure foothold I walk- 
ed around the immense circumference of the dome, suspen- 
ded in air at the dizzy and fearful height of 275 feet from the 
pavement ! Persons below had dwindled into pigmies, and 
their footfall and hum of the services in the chapels beneath 
fell upon the ear like the murmur of distant waters. It was 
an awfully grand and heart-stirring position I We again pro- 
««eded between the walls until we reached the lantern, which 



202 NOTES OP TRAVEL. 

is 55 feet in height and is furnished v/ith numerous windows 
from which the most magnificent views of the city and 
surrounding country delight the eye. We next ascended 
through the stem of the ball into the ball itself, which is of suf- 
ficient dimensions to contain at least 16 persons. It is furnish- 
ed with openings to admit light and air, and from them the Me- 
diterranean can be discerned. I often regarded the ball from 
the piazza below, and its diameter did not appear to my eye 
to be more than eighteen inches ! The whole internal part 
of this immense dome is finished in splendid mosaics, and 
the vault is divided into compartments, gilt and filled up 
with pictures in mosaic, and crowned with a representation 
of the Deity. On the entablature beneath the dome, in let- 
ters four and a half feet in length, executed in mosaic, are 
the following words ; — Tu es Peirus, et svper hone petram 
sedijicabo ecclesiam meam. ct tibi dabo claves j^egni ccelorum. 
Immense and incredibly vast as are the individual parts 
of this gigantic structure, yet so perfect are the symmetry 
and proportions, that the whole does not strike'you very pow- 
erfully at first. But it is a common remark among stran- 
gers, that the oftener you visit St. Peter's, the more ex- 
tended and vast it appears. I was constantly deceived in 
my estimation of the distances of objects around me, for ow- 
ing to their immensity they appeared to be very near when 
in reality they were at a great distance. So objects that 
seemed small, when approached enlarged into incredible 
magnitude. One day I was entering the piazza of St. Peter's 
and observed a carriage approaching an arch on the side of 
the church opposite to me, which appeared at most seven 
feet high ; but I saw the coachman crack his whip as he drew 
near it, and supposing him to be a stranger who did not 
know that he could not pass under it, I slopt to see the re- 
sult. To my utter astonishment the carnage entered the 
arch and disappeared. It seemed like a miracle, and I went 
under the arch to examine it, and found that I could not 
reach its top with my cane extended at arms' length! As you 
enter the church from the vestibule, you push aside with dif- 
ficulty the immense leathern door-curtain and stand in the 
great nave. At the opposite end you see the high altar 



KOTES OF TRAVEL. 203 

which appears very near you, but you will find it di journey 
to reach it. It is of gigantic dimensions'. The haldaquino 
or canopy and the columns are of bronze gilt, which required 
the enormous weight of 1063 hundred of metal to form them. 
The canopy rises to the immense height of ninety feet above 
the pavement. Before you arrive at the great altar, you 
come to what is called the Sacra Confessione, the place 
where the remains of St. Peter are said to rest, beneath the 
level of the pavement of the present Church. The space is 
protected by a balustrade of precious marbles, and a double 
staircase leads to the oratory below, which is ornament- 
ed with bronze gilt and encrusted with a profusion of the 
richest marbles. The whole is decorated with a hundred 
superb lamps, which are kept burning night and day. Be- 
hind the altar is the Tribuna, — but how is it possible for 
me to describe what would require months of time and vol- 
umes, to make comprehensible ! All the great works of the 
great painters are here copied in mosaic, and tlie monuments 
and other objects of sculpture seem innumerable ! As I could 
ascertain nothing about recent estimates of the cost of St. Pe- 
ter's, I conclude that they have ceased to calculate ; but in 
1694, the sum expended amounted already to 47 millions of 
dollars ! ! 

Mr. Mancinelli was kind enough to procure me a permit 
to visit the Pope's mosaic manufactory. — It is, a hall in the 
Vatican, nearly a square in length, fitted up with boxes, like 
an immense granary, in which are contained the pieces of 
enamel used by the workmen. Stones are no longer used, 
as they can procure a much greater variety and delicacy of 
shades artificially, and of equal beauty and permanence. 
This enamel is prepared in the same apartments. When the 
workman requires a particnlar shade of colour, of which I 
was told there are over ISOO, he goes along these boxes and 
selects it. The pieces of enamel are then fashioned on a 
grind-stone to suit his purposes, and set in a strong mineral 
cement placed upon a stout copper frame, which forms the 
support of the picture, and are finally highly polished on 
their face. It is an operation of immense labour and pains.. 
One man was at work on the head of a Madonna, which h© 



204 KOTES OF TBAVEL. 

said would require two years to finish. Another small pic- 
ture of St. Peter in prison, measuring 15 by 18 or 20 inches, 
required two and a half years to finish it, and cost ^1000 I 
What must have been the cost in labour and money of those 
immense mosaics with which St. Peter's is so lavishly deco- 
rated ! 

This afternoon I accompanied Dr. George to the sumptu- 
ous Villa Alhan, where we enjo^^ed a rich treat in its well 
stored galleries. After taking another view of the fine colossal 
statues of Castor and Pollux, executed by the two most cel- 
ebrated ancient sculp tors, Phidias and Praxiteles, and placed 
in the magnificent /7z«z2^a in Monte Cavallo, with a fine obel- 
isk between them, I went again to the Vatican, where I spent 
the morning revelling in the rich beauties of its wonderful col- 
lection of objects of art. In the afternoon I went with 
several friends to visit Tasso^s Oak, growing on an emi- 
nence a short distance beyond the Tiber, which affords 
decidedly the most magnificent view of this splendid city, 
I have yet enjoyed. On our return we visited the Pa- 
lazzo Faimese, so richly stored with the charming frescos of 
Annibale Caracci and his pupils. This evening I called on 
Mr. Mancinelli, and there found Mr. Vito Vitti, from Phila- 
delphia, and another gentleman from New Orleans. To- 
morrow afternoon I set out for Florence. 

8th. — I rose at an early hour, packed up my effects, took 
my breakfast at the Gaffe del Greco, and indulged for a short 
time in an amusement that had often before served to 
wile away a leisure half hour; namely, to take a paper in 
my hand, and unobserved, listen to the sage discussions and 
odd philosophy of the numerous young artists who were in 
the habit of assembling at this Coffee -House. A thousand 
limes was I reminded of the earnest manner, the eccentric 
▼iews, opinions and conclusions of our late friend ]\Ir. M. in 
these gentlemen. I found indeed, this love of discussion and 
a disposition to treat with philosophical gravity, the most 
trivial and unimportant subjects, a common trait among art- 
ists. — I now strolled out to give a parting adieu to thosa 
objects that interested me most in this interesting city, and 
amung others to the Colosseu?n, which I had so often visited 



KOTES OP TRAVEL. 205 

with mingled feelings of awe, astonishment and pleasure. 
This, you know, is that vast, stupendous amphitheatre, which 
^^rose arch over arch, and order over order. Titan-like to scale 
the heavens,'^ commenced by the Emperor Vespasian, and 
finished by his son Titus. It was a truly gigantic structure, 
and is superbly grand, even in its ruins. Although it had 
served for many years as a stone quarry, whence were ob- 
tained materials for many a noble structure in modern Rome, 
part of the Colosseum is still in an excellent state of preser- 
vation. Indeed it is a subject of great astonishment to all 
beholders to see with what surprising force this edifice has 
withstood the ravages of time, earthquakes, war, and indus- 
trious and ruthless quarriers, for the space of nearly two 
thousand years ] The exterior is constructed of immense 
hewn blocks of travertino, originally strengthened by great 
numbers of bronze cramps, all of which have been removed, 
for the sake of the metal ; the interior was of brick work. 
Its form, as is usual in buildings of this kind is oval ; and its 
external walls measure 1641 feet in circumference, and em- 
brace a space of five acres. The edifice rests upon three steps, 
and is four stories high, composed of three tiers of arches, 
eighty in each tier, rising one above the other, surmounted 
by the last or fourth story, which is pierced with windows 
intsead of arches. One hundred and sixty pilasters of traver- 
tino, in each row of arches, support their respective entabla- 
tures, and are of different architectural orders. The first row 
is Doric, the second Ionic, and the two last Corinthian. The 
whole height of the building is 157 feet. The arena, like- 
wise an oval, measures 285 feet in length by 182 in width, 
and is surrounded by a low wall, designed to protect the 
spectators from the wild beasts. It has two entrances in 
the direction of its long diameter, near one of which is the 
gigantic buttress raised by Pius VII, to prevent this part of 
the edifice from falling. The lower ranges of seats \vere of 
brick-work and marble, and the upper ones of wood. Each 
story was provided with a spacious covered corridor, (called 
Vomit orii) from which the spectators were admitted to tho 
seats. The upper corridor was ornamented with eighty col- 
umns of marble supporting a terrace, upon which stood the 

15 



206 NOTES OP TBAVEL. 

persons who had charge of the Velarium, or awning for pro- 
tecting the spectators against the heat of the sun, or against 
rain. Near the top, on the exterior part of the building, are 
numerous large rings of stone, designed to receive the masts 
that supported the awning. Some of the seats are still in a 
perfect state, and, by calculating the space occupied by an 
individual, it is ascertained that this immense ampitheatre 
was sufficiently spacious to contain 107,000 spectators ! ! 
The arena, which so often smoked with the blood of the 
martyrs, is consecrated ground, and in its midst is erected the 
cross. Indeed, the whole edifice was consecrated by one of 
the Popes, for the purpose of preventing the depredations 
formerly committed upon it. I could never be induced to as- 
cend to the top of these stupendous walls, as my head reeled 
with vertigo by a mere inspection of them from the arena I 
The Colosseum was consecrated by Titus in the year 80 of 
the Christian era, by the exhibition of gladiatoral shows du- 
ring a period of 100 days, at which it is said 2000 gladiators 
and 5000 wild beasts were slaughtered ! 

Near the Colosseum, on the side of the Via Sacra, are the 
ruins of a fountain, called Met a Siidans, which must have 
been magnificent. From it was supplied the water used to 
fill the arena, when Nainnn'Chise (sea-fights) were exhibited 
there, or to wash out the blood after a gladiatoral show. 

Left Rome at 4^ in a private coach, by the magnificent 
gate called Porta del Popolo, and proceeded along the an- 
cient Via Flaminia about a mile and a half, to a bridge 
across the Tiber, called the Ponte Molle. It is here that 
Constantine saw the vision of the cross in the heavens, with 
the inscription '-'■Hoc signo Vinces.^^ After passing the bridge 
we took the direction of the Via Cassia, to a small town 
called Storta, through a waste country studJed with moul- 
dering tombs and mausolia. Although I had a verbal con- 
tract with the coachman not to be driven at niglu for fear of 
the malaria, yet after taking some refreshment I was requi- 
red to proceed, notwithstanding my remonstrances to the con- 
trary. At Sutri we turned off upon the P'ia Ft a minia, and , 
after having met with an accident to our coacli, w hich obliged 
us to walk several miles, we arrived at the curious old town 



ITOTES OF TRAVEL. 507 

«or Civita Vastellina, at a late hour. At 2 P. M. we again 
^set out, and after re-crossing the Tiber, and passing over 
an undulating and romantic road amid the Falernian Hills, 
so celebrated anciently for its excellent wines, we arrived 
at Terni at Si A. M. of the 9th. 

9th.— At 3 o'clock in the afternoon, we betook ourselves 
again to our crazy old '•^carrozza^^ and proceeded as far as 
Spoleto, where we put up for the night. The country pass- 
ed over to-day was enchantingly romantic, and pretty well 
cultivated ; but I was so much indisposed that I was unable 
to enjoy it fully. The hills on this day's journey were often 
so steep, as to require relays, which were generally three or 
four yokes of oxen. 

10th. — At Spotelo I parted with all my old travelling com- 
panions, and v/as put into a one-horse vehicle, with four 
other passengers and a ^at quantity of baggage, to proceed 
to FoKgno, a distance of 20 miles. Although I at first felt 
somev/hat disconcerted by the number of persons crowded 
into the carriage, I found the road as even and level as a 
floor, and soon felt that our poor '^cavaUo^^ was not really 
imposed upon. As this was a by-road, not much frequented 
by strangers, I had to-day for the first time an opportunity 
of judging of the pure Italian character among the lower 
classes. I found it to be one of great frankness, apparent 
honesty and kindness. Their curiosity appeared to be great- 
ly excited, Avhgn I told them I was an American. — We had 
to-day a thunder-storm, accompanied by rain, the first we 
have had since I have been in Italy. The country between 
Spoleto and this place, is certainly among the most, beautiful 
in the world. It is covered by a continuous succession of 
olive plantations, vine-yards, orange-groves and fruit-gar- 
dens. 

Uth. — My indisposition of yesterday increased, and about 
3 o'clock this morning I was seized with a violent attack of 
cholera morbus, accompanied by cramps. I felt unfit to 
prescribe for myself, and was unable to make myself un- 
derstood by my attendant, who spoke nothing but Italian ; 
but I doubted whether I should find a physician in this se- 
^juestered place in whom I could put my confidence. Things 



508 MOTES OF TBAVEL. 

however, grew so much more serious, that I concluded f 
could be no worse off by having any medical adviser that 
could be found, so I sent the servant, (one of the kindest 
fellows in the world) for the best doctor in the place. He 
soon returned Avith one of the kindest and most benevolent-s 
looking old gentlemen, who satisfied me in a few moments 
that he comprehended my case fully, and who, to my inex- 
pressible dehght, spoke French. He soon gained my entire 
confidence both as a physician and a gentleman ; the latter 
of which was of no small moment to me, for there was no 
one to whom I could have entrusted my effects, in case my 
disease had terminated fatally. To him, then, I was able 
to give suitable directions to be pursued in case of my de- 
mise ; which was not at all impossible, from the violence of 
my symptoms. Under the enlightened treatment of the 
good Dr. Bonefazo, and the ass|pious care of my affection- 
ate servant, I soon became better, and in the evening 
thought of making arrangements to go to Perugia to meet 
the Diligence for Florence. ! how much I longed for 
some of your nicely prepared arrow-root or barley-water, 
neither of which articles were to be found here. I would 
advise you to carry a small quantity of arrow-root and pearl 
barley with you, if ever you undertake a tour through this 
country. 

12th. — After a comparatively comfortable night's rest, I 
set out this morning at 7 o'clock in a hacl^ for Perugia, a 
distance of 20 miles, over a very good road, and through a 
beautiful country. Here I met the Tuscan Diligence on its 
way from Rome to Florence, and took my seat in it about 
3 P. M. 

ISth. — The distance from Perugia to Florence is about 80 
miles, through the very loveliest country on the face of 
the earth. After leaving the ancient town of Cortona, the 
first considerable one in the Tuscan territory, the road is de- 
lightful and the country truly enchanting ! I am confident 
that no description can convey to you a full idea of the lux- 
uriant richness, the dclighlful variety and soft beauty of the 
scenery of this fairy-land ! Notwithstanding my debility af- 
ter my late indisposition, I enjoyed it with an inexpressible 



WOTES OP TRAVEL, 209 

delight. Every thing, indeed, on coming into Tuscany, 
assumed a more cheerful appearance. The country was bet- 
ter and more tastefully cultivated, the country-houses were 
neater, the towns and villages appeared more clean and 
comfortable, the [inhabitants were better clad, and looked 
more happy and contented. The farther you go South in 
Italy, the more stupidity, filth and squalid misery you find. 

About 9 o'clock this morning, we arrived at the top of the 
hig?i hills which bound the valley of the Arno on the South., 
and had the first glimpse of this terrestrial paradise, with the 
fair city of Florence, the queen of the world justly called by 
the Italians Flrenze Billissma, spread out at our feet. This 
was absolutely the most perfectly beautiful, the most raptur- 
ously enchanting prospect I have ever seen, and I involuntarily 
uttered a loud exclamation of intense dehght ! How shall I 
convey to you, how shall even the most poetic pen convey to 
you some idea of a scene like this ! ! 1 feel myself totally at 
a loss, and think I can do no better than to quote the words 
of a late beautiful writer, Dr. James Johnson, of London : — 
'^^If a person could imagine a great city of palaces, (such as was 
Rome two thousand years ago, when her population was four, 
or, as some say, seven millions, and her walls fifty miles in 
circumference) suddenly blown up by a volcano, and miracu- 
lously scattered along the banks of a river, for ten or twelve 
miles without injury ; the intervening space being filled up 
with gardens, pleasure-grounds, vineyards, orangeries, groves 
of cypress, and plantations of olive: — If he could conceive 
that this scene was an ample valley, the adjacent eminences 
being crowned with convents, churches and villas, white as 
Parian marble, with a stream flowing through the middle — 
a magnificent city at one extremity — the whole encircled 
by towering mountains, and canopied by an Italian sky — he 
would have no bad idea of the Val (T ^rno and Florence." 

I engaged rooms at the house of our Conducteur, whom 
I found a very intelligent, obliging man, and who spoke 
French. They are pleasantly situated on the left bank of the 
Arno {Borgo San Jacopo No. 1763.) near the Palazzo Pittiy 
the residence of the Grand Duke. I felt almost exhausted 
after my long ride, but was soon restored by a nice beef-steak, 



210 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

prepared by my kind and intelligent landlady, and a sies- 
ta. The remainder of the day was spent in studying the 
plan of the city and the value of tlieir vile money, and in as- 
certaining from my guide-book what is most worthy of 
inspection here. 

14th. — I rose at' an early hour, refreshed and almost en- 
tirely restored, and occupied myself in my room until 8 
o'clock, when I rook my breakfast at the Caffe Elvitico, a 
much frequented coffee-house in the Via Porte S. Maina. 
After breakfast I set out according to my usual custom, on a 
random stroll through this delightful city. 

The city of Florence contains 80.000 inhabitants, is strongly 
walled, and defended by several forts. x\lthough the plan 
is irregular, its streets are straight and comparatively wide. 
They are paved in the old Roman style, with large flag- 
stones, which, although not cut into regular shapes, are join- 
ed together with great accuracy, and made to slope towards 
their middle, and form the conduit for carrying off water. It 
is irregularly divided by the river Arno, which is walled up 
on both sides, and spanned by four stone bridges. The hou- 
ses are high and strongly built of stone, having nothing deci- 
dedly beautiful in the style of architecture, but an appear- 
ance of substantialness and strength, that imparts to this 
city a peculiar aspect of gravity which to me is very agree- 
able, and conveys the impression of unostentatious wealths 
Most of the palaces, and they are very numerous, are fine, 
large, solid stone structures, topped with castellated parapet 
walls. There are numerous large churches in Florence, but 
many of them have never been finished externally. Open 
squares are also very numerous in this city, and some of 
them are large and imposing. — Among the Churches, of course 
the Duomo^ or Cathedral, whose immense red tiled dome forms 
so conspicuous an object in the views of this chy, is most in- 
teresting. It is an immense pile of very curious construction^ 
erected in the 13th century. Its exterior is cased in black 
and white marble perfectly polished, and the lantern of solid 
marble beautifully carved. There are many fine statues and 
some paintings in the interior. But one of the most impos- 
ing and beautiful objects in this city is the Campanile^ or 



NOTES OF TRAVEL. 211 

belfty belonging to the Cathedral ; for in many of the church- 
es of Italy, the belfry and also the baptistery, are detached 
from them. It is a square tower of elegant proportions, 
measuring 280 feet in height, built of white, red, blue, green, 
and black marble, all beautifully arranged and polished. 
Nothing can exceed the splendor of this structure in a fine sun^ 
light. The Baptistery, a beautiful octagonal edifice, incrust- 
ed with marble and supposed to have been a temple of Mars^ 
stands also near the Cathedral. A pair of its bronze doors, 
done by Ghiberti, are no doubt the most magnificent specimens 
of the art of casting that have ever existed. Their matchless 
elegance keeps a constant crowd around them, riveted in pro- 
found admiration. I could never pass them without examin- 
ing them again and again, with the greatest delight ! Michael 
Angelo used to say they were fit to be the gates of Paradise. 
There is a very fine group in bronze on the outside of the 
Baptistery, representing St. John the Baptist with a Scribe 
and a Pharisee. In the centre of the building is the baptis- 
mal font, a large marble basin, and sixteen immense granite 
columns ranged around, support a gallery. Between these 
columns are statues representing the twelve Apostles. The 
pavement is formed of ancient mosaic, and on one part is rep- 
represented the sun with the twelve signs of the zodiac. The 
Piazza del Duomo, or square of the Cathedral is very fine, 
and it is pleasant to take your ice in the evening in presence 
of these magnificent objects. There must be a great deal of in- 
dividual competency in Florence, if not of wealth, judging 
from the great number of well-dressed people in the streets. 
The lower classes look very cheerful and contented, and their 
dress is peculiarly pretty. The females appear very fond of 
gay colours, and wear large Leghorn flats, trimmed with 
showy ribbons. 

15th. — After spending several hours in my room in read- 
ing and writing, I went to take my breakfast at the Caffe 
Elvltico, where I met with a former acquaintance whom I 
had fallen in with at Lyons, and travelled with three or four 
days. He [is a curious mysterious personage, dressed in a 
Greek Cap, and looks like a Greek ; a complete polyglot, 
speaking at least half a dozen of languages, with the most 

15* 



212 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

perfect facility. He appears to have travelled a great deai^ 
and is well informed on every subject, but is entirely averse 
to telling any thing about himself or his movements. I have 
found him an exceedingly pleasant and useful companion. 

At our Coffee House, I have seen the far-famed floioer-girls 
of Florence. They are beautiful young females, dressed in 
the neatest simplicity, with their flats trimmed with pretty 
flowers, and a little flat basket hanging on their arms, filled 
with the most tastefully arranged bouquets. They frequent 
the Coffee-Houses and other public places, and present each 
one present with one of their charming little bouquets with 
the most graceful courtesy and smile. They never ask for 
any thing, but who could resist paying a trifle for so pretty 
a gift, so prettily bestowed by a pretty young female ? The 
mere gracefulness with which they recive their gratzi, (fips) 
is quite a sufficient return. 

After breakfast, I went in search of our Consul, Mr. Oni- 
brosi, an Italian by birth, but who has resided in the United 
States for 8 or 10 years. I found him a most complaisant and 
agreeable old gentleman, who took every pains to advance 
the object of my visit. He keeps a list of the names of his 
countrymen, (for he is an American citizen) who visit Flo- 
rence, which was of great interest to me. Among them I 
saw the name of Mr. Muhlenberg of Lancaster, and several 
others that were familiar to me. 

I next paid a visit to the Palazzo Pitti, the residence of 
the Grand Duke, and its magnificent grounds. This palace 
is an immense structure, composed of enormous blocks of 
hewn stone of a dark color which causes its exterior to have 
rather a gloomy and forbidding aspect. The grounds at- 
tached, called the Boholi gardens, are not very extensive, 
but magnificently decorated with objects of art. Many of 
the statues are very fine and preserved with great care. A 
gigantic granite basin 20 feet in diameterj decorated with a 
colossal Neptune, surrounded by sea-monsters, and represen- 
tations of the Ganges, Nile and Euphrates, forms a foun- 
tain of great splendour. On entering the gardens, I again 
met with my former companion Dr. George, with whom I 
parted at Rome. — But it is to the rare and rich collections 



KOTES OP TRAVEL. tlS 

of paintings by the most celebrated masters, that the Palazzo 
Pitti owes its interest. It contains very many of the most 
famous pieces that have ever been executed, but I will not 
tire your patience by giving you a list of even the most cele- 
brated. In a magnificently furnished apartment, on a pedes- 
tal upon which it revolves so as to turn its different parts to 
the light, is that world-renowned cAe/ 6/' cewi^re of Canova, his 
Venus ! I viewed this transcendent effort of art with the 
same ecstatic feelings of delight that I viewed the Apollo 
Belvidere in the Vatican, and could absolutely not tire in 
hanging upon its beauties ! If such a powerful effect is pro- 
duced upon my mind, who have no pretensions to a knowl- 
edge of the arts, what must be the effect on an artist in view- 
ing this splendid effort of genius ! These are moments when 
I wish more ardently than ordinary for you and all my other 
friends to be with me. — I am surprised to see the great liber- 
ality of the Grand Duke, in permitting the artists to enter 
these princely apartments so magnificently furnished with 
all that is rich and beautiful, with their dirty brushes and 
oils and paints, to copy the pictures and statues. — I regret 
to learn from Mr. Ombrosi, that I shall be unable to see the 
Museum of Natural History, which contains the finest ana- 
tomical models in wax in the world, as it is undergoing 
thorough repairs, in anticipation of the scientific convention 
which is to take place here in October next. 

16th. — The Piazza del Gran Biica is decidedly the most 
magnificent square in this beautiful city. It is adorned with 
a fine equestrian statue of Cosmio I, having its pedestal or- 
namented with beautiful bassi-relievi, and contains a foun- 
tain exhibiting a colossal statue of Neptune drawn in a car 
by four sea-horses, with Tritons, &c. It is surrounded on all 
sides by lofty edifices, and a number of palaces. Among 
the latter is an immense fortress-like stone structure with a 
projecting castellated top, and guarded by two colossal lions 
in marble, occupied at present as the dogana or custom- 
house. And in another large building is placed the Post-Of- 
fice. Nearly one side of \he square is occupied by the 
Palazzo Vecchio, or National Palace, adorned with a curious 
castellated tower, so lofty that it makes one of the most 



214 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

conspicuous objects in the city. In front of the palace is a grand 
and spacious portico, supported by four immense coUimns in 
the Gothic style, spanned by lofty round arches. It is ap- 
proached by wide steps in its centre, guarded on either side 
by two magnificent lions. The floor is of marble and the 
ceiling is beautifully arched in compartments. Here are pla- 
ced a number of the most splendid specimens of art in bronze 
and marble, and it forms a delightful promenade, from which 
nearly the whole square can be viewed. The interior of this 
palace is exquisitely finished in a peculiar style, in carving. 
The carvings on the columns, somewhat after the arabesque 
manner, are strikingly beautiful. It contains the mint and 
pbulic offices. 

• On turning a corner to the right of the last named palace, 
toward the Arno, you come in view of the Recdi Uffizi, an 
immense structure, consisting of two magnificent porticos, of 
unequal length, united at one end by an arch, and adorned 
with Doric columns. This edifice contains the courts of law, 
public offices, the royal library, and those choice and magni- 
ficent statue and picture galleries which are by no means in- 
ferior to those of the Vatican itself. These invaluable collec- 
tions are contained in 23 apartments, one of which, called 
the Tribune, (the choicest in the Vv'orld) would be sufficient 
to give immortal renown to any other city ! — It is in the Tri- 
bune, a circular apartment paved with precious marbles, and 
lighted from above, that is placed that cAe/^'cezrtTe of ancient 
art, the Venus de Medici, supposed to be the work of Prax- 
iteles. Here are also several more of the most celebrated 
statues in existence, and a number of the master pieces of the 
most renowned painters ; as of Raphael, Michael Angelo 
Titian, Guido, Domenichio, Del Sarto, Lanfranco, Annibale 
Carracci, &:c., &c. The collection of Roman and Egyptian 
antiquities is extremely interesting, particularly to one who 
has not seen the IMuseo Borbonico of Naples. The Floren- 
tine mosaic work, forming the tops of numerous tables, de- 
posited in these galleries, is rich and beautiful beyond concep- 
tion. There is in the centre of one of the cabinets, an octagon- 
al table, peculiarly remarkable for its great magnificence and 
elegance. It displays a great profusion of precious stones^ 



NOTES OP TRAVEL^ 215 

such as topazes, onyxes, agates, lapis-lazuli, &c., &c., and is 
said to have occupied the time of 22 artificers for 25 years ! I 
The busts of renowned men of antiquity, heroes and Ut- 
erati, had a deep interest for me. They are all antique, and 
of course are considered likenesses. Another interesting cab- 
inet, is that containing the portraits of the most celebrated 
painters, taken by themselves. The collection of gems is- 
truly sumptuous — ^but to what purpose are all these dry enu- 
merations ? You must come to Florence if you wish to real- 
ize its beauties and enjoyments. I am sure our young artists 
cannot estimate the riches of these galleries, or poverty itself 
would scarcely prevent them from visiting, from living m 
them. 

I must once more take notice of the magnanimous liberali- 
ty of the Grand Duke of Tuscany, who throws open all those 
lich treasures of art, without the least restraint or cost. He 
even publishes in placards, put up at the doors, that nothing 
shall be given to the attendants, and provides every cabinet 
with numerous catalogues ; a thing I met with nowhere else. 

After a late dinner and a siesta, I took a stroll into the i?e- 
ali Cascine, a delightful public drive, planted with plantains 
and live oaks, and situated on the banks of the Arno. Here 
all the world resorts to enjoy the cool evening air. On my 
return I called on Messrs. Terry and Freeman, American 
artists resident here, and spent a charming evening with them 
over a dish of tea. 

17th.— Rose at 6, and took my breakfast at 8 o'clock, and 
then went out to visit some of the churches. The y are gene- 
l-ally rich in fine specimens of painting and sculpture, and 
that of the S. S. Jliinunziata is highly decorated with many 
massive silver ornaments. In a corridor on the side of this 
church, is that famous fresco, the master-piece of Andrew 
del Sarto, called the Madonna del Sacco, from its having 
been executed by him for a sack of grain in a time of famine. 
It is said that Titian and Michael Angelo never tired in gaz- 
ing at it. But it was the vast edifice oi Santa Croce, that had 
the greatest interest for me, as it contains the remains of ma- 
ny of the greatest men of Italy. Here are found among 
ethers, the tombs of Michael Angelo, Dante, Buonarotti, and 
Galileo. 



^1« KOTES OP TRAVEL. 

By putting in requisition all my ingenuity and persuasion, I 
was admitted into the museum of Natural History, notwith- 
standing the state of disorder in which it was placed by the 
repairs which are being made. My view of it was however 
very unsatisfactory, as the floors of most of the galleries were 
freshly painted, and I was unable to enter them. My disap* 
pointment was much increased by the beauty of the small 
part I was permitted to see. Attached to the Museum is a 
large Botanical Garden in excellent keeping. The labels of 
the plants wese peculiarly arranged, and pleased me much. 
Small pipkins were taken, with large flat bottoms, upon 
which were attached, internally, the labels. The pipkins 
were then corked and placed in an inverted position on wires. 
In the Museum is also the Observatory, built over a point 
where the two main corridors meet, and here is being erect- 
ed by the Grand Duke, a beautiful chapel of white marble, 
of a circular form, designed to receive the statue of Galileo. 

I had some arrangements to make this morning, at the 
police office, in regard to my passport, and found the ofii- 
cers very civil and obliging. Indeed, this has been my uni- 
form experience thus far, even in Italy, where I anticipated, 
from all that I had heard, so much difficulty. I have every 
reason to presume that in most instances where incivilities 
are met with from custom-house and police officers, they are 
induced by travellers themselves ; who are too much incli- 
ned to become irritable under a discharge of necessary du- 
ties. I find the markets of Florence abundantly supplied 
with all kinds of the most delightful fruits ; such as water- 
melons, cantelopes, figs, pears, plums of all kinds, and a great 
profusion of grapes. Of these there is a small variety, call- 
ed muscadelle, without seeds, and of a rich straw colour, 
Avhich is decidedly the most delicate and delicious fruit I ever 
tasted. They can be had at less than two cents the pound. 
Near the market is a fountain in the form of an immense 
wild boar in bronze, after a beautiful antique model, with 
the water issuing from its mouth. It is amusing to see the 
children hugging to him, and clinging to his snout and ears 
m order to drink. — Living is very cheap in this city, and the 
cooking much better than in Rome. 



H0TE3 OP TRAVEL. 217 

18th. — This morning after breakfast, I paid a visit to the 
Academy of Fine Arts, but found nothing to interest me par- 
ticularly. I afterwards went it search of Prof. Buret, to 
whom I had a note from my very kind friend Mr. Ombrosi, 
and whom I found at the great Hospital of Santa Maria 
Nuova. This is an immense edifice, containing 1600 beds; 
but as there appears to be a general house cleaning in all the 
public establishments throughout the city, in anticipation of 
the scientific convention to be held here in October, I had no 
very satisfactory view of it. As far as I could see it, how- 
ever, I was dehghted with its arrangements and keeping. 
After showing me the Library, which is large and well se- 
lected. Dr. Burci took me to the Pathological Museum, w^here 
I was highl}?- delighted and instructed by many of the most 
curious and useful specimens in the world, preserved with 
an unusual degree of neatness and care. Here among oth- 
ers, is an immense hydrocephalic head, in which the Profes- 
sor told me, the brain was entirely unravelled, without leav- 
ing a single trace of the convolutions, and presented a com- 
plete sack. The subject died idiotic at the age of 18 months. 
The injections of the lymphatic system, by the celebrated 
Mascagniy from which he had his plates engraved, are 
beautiful. But decidedly the most curious preparations are 
those made by a Signor Sagato, who posessed the singular 
art of solidifying all animal substances. Among them is one 
which the doctor called a human mosaic. In a wooden 
frame measuring about 18 by 20 inches, are arranged, in 
small squares, sections of the human body, as of muscle, kid- 
ney, liver, pancreas, &c., &c., (and which could be at once re- 
cognized) all so perfectly hardened as to receive as beautiful 
a polish as stone ! There are here also a number of fish and 
reptiles, prepared in this manner. Dr. B. showed me also 
the head of a fcetus, which he had placed in a basin of water 
in his room to macerate, and v/hich he had forgotten until 
decomposition had commenced ; when Sagato came there 
and told him if he did not want the head, he would show 
him what he could do with it. In three days Sagato return- 
ed with the head perfectly sohdified and deprived of all 
fetor 5 and here it is in an entire state of preservation, with 



218 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

the livid marks of decomposition still upon it, and the brain 
loose and solid in its interior, which rattles like a cocoa nut ! 
Sagato died suddenly, and left no trace by which a clue to 
this curious secret could be had. 

The afternoon was again devoted to the picture galleries, 
which have engrossed every leisure hour since I have been 
in this city. The evening I spent in a long walk with my 
excellent acquaintance Prof. Burci, after which we took our 
iced fruit at an elegant Coffee-House in the Piazza del 
Duomo. 

19th. — This morning I called on my friend Mr. Cochran, 
whom I had met in Naples, and who! I heard had arrived 
in this city. Not finding him in, I took a hack and drove 
arround the whole circuit of the city walls in order to exam- 
ine the fortifications and the Triumphal Arch on the outside 
of the Porta S. Gallo. which is very fine. The Promenades 
on the banks of the Arno are delightful, and" the Ponte S. 
Trinita, one of the bridges across the river, is an elegant 
structure. — This afternoon I went to see the funeral proces- 
sion of one of the children of the Grand Duke, which was 
exceedingly imposing, and attracted an immense crowd of 
spectators. Of course the military attended, and I was very 
much pleased with their appearance and particularly the 
Sapeurs\ who, with their long white aprons, and full beards 
extending to their girdles, were among the finest looking men 
1 have ever seen. 

This evening I dined with Mr. Cochran and his friend Mr. 
Hill at the Hotel de Porta Rossa, and after dinner we took 
a ride, accompanied by a young English physician, to see 
the Torre di Gallileo, situated on one of the heights near 
the city, in the midsts of vine-yards and fig-plantations. It 
is an antiquated square tower, with a flat roof, guarded by 
a parapet-wall, and apartments in the lower stories. It is 
said that the great philosopher resided here, and made most 
of his splendid observations from its top. From the flat roof 
of this tower, I beheld the most exquisitely beautiful and 
ravishing prospect that it is possible for the human eye to 
gaze upon ! The view is certainly unique, and totally unri- 
valled by the charming variety and beauty of its objects, 



NOTES OP TRAVEL. 219 

both artificial and natural, which are blended with a harmo- 
ny and delicacy that cast that celestial peacefulness and soft- 
ness over the whole, so effectual in calling up the most deep- 
felt and overpowering delight. Then to see an Italian sun- 
set cast its mantle of gold, and purple and violet, over a par- 
adisean scene like this! My feelings became totally uncon- 
trollable, and I burst into a flood of tears ! 

20th. — I set out this morning at 4i o'clock, in a hack, for 
Milan, in company with Dr. George and a Swiss lady, on 
her return home from Florence. — According to the common 
custom in this country, I have made a written contract, 
"sealed and delivered," with the coachman to take me to 
Milan by a given route, within a given time, with so many 
meals a day, consisting of coffee and bread for breakfast, and 
so many courses and wine of a good quality for dinner, and 
good lodgings in clean beds, &c. &c. &c.; all carefully desig- 
nated, and at such a price for the whole trip, ^^tuto compri- 
^o" except a ^'•huona mano^^ which is always stipulated 
for, but the amount is optional. Here then, you see me once 
more reduced completely to the state of a child, dependant 
upon my coachman for all my necessities without ever giv- 
ing myself the trouble of a single thought about them. From 
the small experience I have had in this mode of travelling, 
I have found it sufficiently agreeable on account of the re- 
moval from one's mind of all care. 

After leaving the Porte San Gallo, and passing the trium- 
phal arch, an excellent road winds through one of the best 
cultivated, most rich and charming countries in the world, 
flanked with vines, and orange-groves, and fig-trees, and 
cypresses and olive-plantations, until it gradually approaches 
the pass of the Appenines. On ascending the southern aclivi- 
ty of the mountains, the Veil d'Arno presents another of 
those ravishingly enchanting views which I so much enjoyed 
on approaching it from the South. I cannot conceive of a 
scene more perfectly beautiful ! A country surrounded by 
hills gently swelling and rising in infinite variety of shape, 
intersected by dales and little vallies of exquisite beauty, un- 
til they terminate in the elevated chain of the Appenines 
abore; the placid stream of the Arno, meandering gracefully 



990 KOTES OF TRAVEL. 

through a wide undulating plain at their feet, upon which 
is built the magnificent city of Florence ; around are numer- 
ous villages and hamlets nestled in picturesque beauty in the 
httle vallies and on the aclivities ; the whole is cuUivated 
like a luxuriant pleasure-garden, adorned with innumerable 
villas, almost concealed by the dense groves of magnificent 
trees with which they are surrounded. The charming deli- 
cacy with which the countless shades of the exceedingly 
varied vegetation of this country blend with each other, is 
one of its peculiar beauties. The villas, and villages, and 
even the city itself, are all white, which contrasts delightful- 
ly with the varied and rich green. Thene you have this ex- 
quisite scene bathed in floods of that peculiar soft purple 
light, and canopied by that clear deep blue cloudless sky, 
which give to Italy so many charms. It was truly with af- 
fecting regret that I looked for the last time upon this en- 
chanting scene, rendered, if possible, even more enchanting 
by the delightfully cool and bright morning on which it was 
viewed. 

We stopt three hours at noon to take our siesta, and then 
proceeded to a small place called Fielramala, on the top of 
the Appenines. A mile from this along the ridge of the 
mountains, we were told there was a Volcano. This excited 
my curiosity much, as the country around here does not ap- 
pear volcanic in its formation. I engaged a guide, and ac- 
companied by several other travellers whom I found at the 
hotel, proceeded to the spot by a very stony and rough path. 
On an arid piece of cleared ground, covered with gravel and 
gray sandstones, was a patch about 15 feet in diameter, which 
emitted, in numerous places, flames of the size of large lamp 
flames, and of a bright yellow colour. As night had alrea- 
dy set in, the phenomenon was very striking and curious. 
On a close examination, I found that the inflammable mate- 
rial issued from cracks in the surface of the soil, which was 
very hard. Wherever I turned up the ground with my cane^ 
I found that an abundance of gas was emitted, having the 
smell of pure carburetted hydrogen, and could be ignited 
with great facility. I returned to the inn much fatigued, and 
enjoyed a most refreshing night's rest, being braced by the 
delightfully cool air of this elevated region. 



NOTES OF TRAVEL. 221 

2 1st. — We set out at 5i o'clock, and travelled until 11, 
when we arrived at Lojano, and rested there until 3 P. M. 
We passed a point this morning on descending the Appe- 
nines, from which, in clear weather, a view is had both of the 
Adriatic and Mediterranean 5 but as the day was hazy, we 
could not clearly distinguish them. The country has contin- 
ued deUghtfully romatic and picturesque, but we are now 
upon the confines of the level plains of Northern Italy. 

W"e arrived at Bologna at an early hour. This appears 
like a very pleasant city, is well paved and clean, and near- 
ly all the streets are lined with double rows of porticos, rest- 
ing on arches, which form an agreeable protection to pe- 
destrians. There are here a number of very fine churches, 
and large palaces, containing extensive galleries of paintings. 
I was enabled to visit but few of the interesting objects in 
Bologna, on account of an attack of ague with which I was 
seized this morning. The curious leaning towers, however, 
were not permitted to escape my observation. That of Asi- 
ncUi is 327 feet high, and inclines 4 feet from a perpendicu- 
lar line; and its neighbour, which is 140 feet high, inclines 
8 feet ! They appeared to me as if they had received this in- 
clination by accident; but I believe the best architects sup- 
pose them to have been thus constructed designedly. Indis- 
posed as I was, I did not neglect to taste the famous Bologna 
Sausages. They are much like those made at home, un- 
der the same name ; except that they are flavoured with gar- 
lic, and have large pieces of fat distributed through them. 
We passed the bed of a dry stream to day, which we were 
told was the Rubicon. 

22d. — We left Bologna at 5 A. M., and arrived at Mo- 
dina at 11, where we remained until 2\ P. M. This is an 
elegant little city, with straight, wide and clean streets, sit- 
uated in a rich and highly cultivated plain. It contains a 
great number of fine churches, but lew of which I iiad time 
to glance at, and a beautiful palace, called the Palazzo Du- 
cale, surrounded by delightful gardens. Medina contains 
25,000 inhabitants. 

At 6 P. M., we arrived at Reggio, a place of no interest, 
containing 12 or 15,000 inhabitants. The country passed 

16 



222 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

through to-day is level, very rich and highly cultivated. We 
crossed a number of streams, or rather their dry beds, often 
on very fine bridges. Great quantities of hemp are cultiva- 
ted in this district, and the smell of the pits of stagnant wa- 
ter in which it is prepared, is excessively nauseous, and must 
without doubt, be a prolific source of disease ; for fevers, I 
was told, are prevalent here. 

23d. — We left Reggio at 6 o'clock this morning, and 
reached Farnia^ about 9. This you know, is the residence 
of Maria Louisa, who is sovereign of the small duchy of 
Parma. We remained 3 hours here, but as I had another 
attack of the ague to-day, I was unable to see much of this 
city, but as far as I could see it, I was pleased with the ap- 
pearance of its public buildings and its air of general neat- 
ness. Of course I tasted the far-famed Farinasan Cheese 
here, which I found really delicious. 

We proceeded on our way this afternoon, and came as far 
as Fiorejizuola, a small village where we found excellent ac- 
commodations. The country still continued level, and we 
passed several streams and a number of torrents on long and 
often well-built bridges. 

24th. — This morning we set out at G o'clock, and after a 
short drive, came in sight of Piacenza, which we did not 
enter, on accomit of a tax that is levied on strangers, and be- 
cause we could go a nearer route, by passing round. Its 
ivy-grown walls had a very romantic appearance, as we 
passed near them. A short distance beyond Piacenza, we 
crossed the Po, a considerable stream, on a bridge of boats. 
This is the Austrian frontier, and we en.tered upon the de- 
lightful plains of Lombardy. This ufternoon we passed 
through the small town of Lodi, and across the bridge over 
the Adda, so famous for one of Napoleon's earliest exploits. 
We came on to a small village called MeUgnano, to sleep. 
Nothing can exceed in richness and careful cultivation this 
part of Lombardy. The country is like a garden, and is 
abundantly irrigated by numerous small canals. The fields 
axe divided by rows of beautiful trees, generally willows. 
Hemp is cultivated very extensively, and I saw to-day for 
ihe first time, rice growing. The road is delightful and a* 



If-OTES OP TRAVEL. 223 

^VBUi as a floor, with a pretty canal of running water on 
seith^r side, and is shaded by double rows of majestic trees. 

25th. — This morning at 8§ o'clock, we entered the beau- 
tiful city of Milan. Its streets are sufficiently wide, very 
clean, and are fianked on either side by rows of porticos, un- 
der u'hich the side-walks run. The city is strongly walled, 
and contains 130,000 inhabitants. 

Decidedly the most interesting object in Milan, is its mag- 
nificent Cathedral, the most beautiful structure of its kind in 
the world, and inferior only to St, Peter's in size. After ma- 
king my toilet, I immediately set out to get a view of an ed- 
ifice of v/hose inimitable beauty and grandeur I had heard so 
much, and soon stood in the open space before its princi- 
pal facade. I was suddenly arrested, absolutely spell-bound 
by my emotions, and could only repeat in a low tone "mag- 
nificent !" It is a Gothic structure, built of the purest white 
marble, carved with a delicacy and lightness that is incredi- 
ble ; surmounted by a dome of the most delicate openwork, 
and by inu'amerable spires. The elevated and delicate spire of 
the dome is surmounted by a colossal statue, and every spire 
is tipped with a statue rather larger than the natural size. 
There are an immense number of niches on every part of the 
-exterior of the building, all filled with statues, of which there 
^re said to be no less than 5000 in and on the church ! The 
interior is also finished in white marble in the same style of 
-elegant simplicity, to correspond with the exterior. The 
dome is a magnificent piece of fret-work, and immediately 
under it in a subterranean chapel, are deposited in a chr5^stal 
-sarcophagus, the remains of San Carlo Borromzo, said to be 
in a good state of preservation. My feelings were however 
not at all in a state to examine a subjeciy although sainted, 
and pay a scudo in the bargain ; so I turned about and as- 
cended to the top of this splendid edifice, by a spiral stairs of 
46S steps. There is absolutely a forest of spires here, carved 
with a lightness and delicacy that seemed altogether incon- 
sistent with a due degree of strength. I ascertained, howev- 
er, that the most delicate parts v^^ ere strengthened by having 
thick iron or copper wires passed through the marble. It is 
ixom the top of the dome that the most grand and magnificent 



22i KOTES OF TRAVEL. 

view imaginable is obtained. At your feet lies the city, and 
around it a great number of beautiful villas ; and farther on 
still, are villages and towns distributed in all directions over 
that richest of countries, the plains of Lombardy, clothed 
with the most luxuriant vegetation, and intersected by innu- 
-iTierable rivers and canals, that glitter in the sun-shine like 
silver cords. Far, far to the North and East, the horizon is 
skirted by the snow-capped tops of the mighty Alps, whose 
different peaks can be distinctly discerned by a large tele- 
scope, v\rhich is kept here for the gratification of visitors. 

The Great Amphitheatre, erected by Napoleon, is a grand 
structure, worthy of notice. It will contain 36,000 specta- 
tors at a time. — I visited a few of the most distinguished 
churches, and was pleased with their style of architecture, 
and the taste with Avhich they are decorated. 

26th. — I still feel the effects of my late attack of ague, and 
long ardently for the invigorating influences of the pure 
mountain-air of the Alps. I was barely enabled to make a 
iew random excursions through the city to day, and to ex- 
amine the Triumphal Arch, a stupendous and magnificent 
structure, erected by Napoleon just beyond the chy, at the 
termination of the Simplon road, and to commemorate its con- 
struction. It was left unfinished by the mighty chief, but is 
now nearly completed under the Emperor of Austria, in a 
style of decoration however, very different from that designed 
by its great projector. Many of the victories of French arms 
were beautifully sculptured in basso-relievo for its ornament ; 
but these of course are now considered inadmissible, and lie, 
half ruined, in a shed close by. 

27th. — Last night I heard the Opera of la Vest ah, at the 
great theatre of La Scala. This is the most beautiful as 
well as one of the largest Opera-Houses of Europe. It. is 
truly magnificently grand, and is decorated with regal sump- 
tuousness. The whole performance was one of great splen- 
dour, but the termination of the piece had too much of the 
tragical in it to be quite agreeable to me. Some of the mu- 
sic was charming, and the dancing was delightful. 

I am just about to pack up my trunks in order to set out 
for Geneva this afternoon, in the same hack by which I came 



NOTES OF TRAVEL, 225 

from Florence, still under the care of our good driver Bianti, 
to whom I have become quite attached, on account of his 
great kindness and strict honesty ; very rare qualities, it is 
said, in Italian hack-drivers. I place myself again und«r 
his entire care as formerly ; so you see I like the plan pretty 
well. JNIy friend Prof. George, left me at an early hour this 
morning, to cross the Simplon on foot. 

I left Milan at 1^ o'clock P. M. with four passengers in 
the coach ; our former companion, Mad. T. of Geneva, two 
young priests and myself. We came on as far as Cassina 
Buon-Gesiij a small village, where we stayed all night. This 
day's journey fatigued me considerably, not having yet en- 
tirely recovered from the effects of my attack of ague. 

28th. — We set out this morning at 5 o'clock, and by an 
industrious day's drive, reached Fariolo, a small place be- 
yond Bovina on Lago Maggiore. The country was not par- 
ticularly interesting, until we came to Sesto Calende, at the 
foot of the lake, when it became truly enchanting. On our 
right, was the beautiful and placid sheet of water of the 
lake, which is about six miles in width, reflecting the 
objects on its banks like a mirror. On our left was one of 
the most perfectly beautiful and charming countries in the 
world. Amid orange-groves, fig-trees, olive-plantations, and 
vineyards, interspersed with lovely little groves of forest- 
trees, were sheltered innumerable white villas, with a great 
number of hamlets and villages of peculiar taste and beauty 
in their architectural construction. At Arona we halted 
long enough to see the stupendous statue of San Carlo 
Borromeo in bronze; which measures 112 feet in height, 
and whose head is of sufficient capacity to hold four 
persons. — On our arrival opposite to the Borromean lies, 
(three in number) we permitted our coach to go on to Bove- 
na, and hired a boat to visit one of them, called Isola Bella, 
from its transcendent beauty, situated about two miles from 
the shore. This is truly a fairy creation, perfectly unique, 
formed by one of the Borromeo family, out of what was 
once nothing but a barren rock. It presents eight or ten 
terraces, placed one above the other, lessening successive- 
ly, and crowned with a noble palace four stories high, so 



226 NOTES OF TRAVEL^ 

as to give the whole the appearance of a truncated cxme^ 
These terraces are planted with every variety of trees and 
flowers, refreshed by sparkhng fountains, and laid out in 
th^ most enchanting walks. The palace is sumptuously 
furnished, and adorned with paintings and statues, and in 
the lower story is a suite of apartments made to represent 
grottos, finished in the most curious and beautiful style in 
shell-work. After being gratified with a sight of this little 
paradise, we re-embarked and joined our coach at Bove- 
na. — I am delighted with our two travelling companions, 
Drs. Valentinelli and Devit, the former Librarian, and the 
latter Professor in the Seminary of Padua. They are gen- 
tlemen of extensive information, who have travelled much^ 
and although wearing the clerical garb, have nothing con- 
tracted or illiberal about them. 

29th. — We set out this morning at a very early horn*, and 
after having passed through a most enchantingly picturesque 
country, and crossed the Toccia several times, and a niunber 
of mountain tarrents, on beautiful bridges, we arrived at 
Donio dWssola for breakfast. For a number of miles before 
arriving at this place, the mountams on either side approach- 
ed each other nearer and nearer, and the valley, traversed 
by the Toccia, along whose beautiful ba.nks the road leads,. 
b,ecame more and more narowed. Many beautiful little val- 
lies, in the highest state of cultivation, studded with cattages, 
and villages, with sparkling brooks of limpid water, run- 
ning joyously through them, opened into the main one. 
This placid scenery contrasted well with the elevated and 
rugged mountains by which these vallies were over-shadowed. 
After breakfast, we proceeded a few miles, when we cross- 
ed the rapid stream of the VedrOy on a magnificent bridge to> 
Crevola, and then turned shortly to the left along the banks 
of this river into the Val Vedro, and fairly commenced as- 
cendmg the mighty Siinploii ! Here begins the stupendous 
and sublime scenery of the Alps. It was no longer possible 
for me to remain in flie coach, and I dismounted, accompa- 
nied by Dr. Devit to make the ascent on foot. Now, im- 
agine to yourself a tortuous and jagged cliasm, formed by a 
a rent made by some astounding convulsion of nature, which 



NOTES OF TRAVEL. 227 

tore asunder the living granite rock from the top to the very 
i)ase of the stupendous Alp ; the sides piled up in perpendicu- 
lar and overhanging crags to an elevation as high as would be 
formed by superposing four or five of our Neversinks upon 
each other ; these crags worn into partial ruins, by the lapse 
of thousands of ages, and totally barren, save here and there 
a few scrubby pines, hanging in the crevices where a scanty 
portion of soil has lodged; numerous torrents pouring over 
the edges of these precipices from heights that make your 
head reel to look up to, and dashing down into the vast and 
dreary abyss below ; a stream as large as the Tulpehocken, 
fretting, and boiling, and roaring with the most impetuous 
fury at the bottom- of a chasm so deep and dark that you can 
barely see its white foam; here and there the marks on the 
precipitous wails of the mountains, where enormous masses 
of rock have been torn from their bowels by the descending 
avalanches, and you will have some faint idea of the awfully 
desolate and savage gorges of Isella and Gondo ! Amid these 
terrific scenes, which seem the very home of desolation, you 
proceed for 8 or 10 miles, when the mountains recede a little, 
and have a less savage aspect. Here you see on the right, 
two small villages perched at an immense height above you, 
©n a plateau of the mountain. You next come to the village 
of San Marco; the last on the Italian territory, between 
which and Gondo is a small chapel, which marks the di- 
vision between Italy and Switzerland. Here our trunks 
were examined. Beyond Gondo the road makes a con- 
siderable circuit to the left, and passing Gsteig ascends 
another immense mountain to the Simplon village, where 
we arrived in the dusk of the evening. We preceded the 
coach by an hour or more. Having dismounted from it in 
the sultry vallies of Italy, I had put on a thin coat and left 
my cloth one in the care of the driver. Here we were in 
the regions of perpetual snow, and the air was so cold that I 
was obliged to borrow a thick flannel blanket to wrap my- 
self in, and to order a brisk fire at the hotel. The first ob- 
ject I encountered on entering the sal a manger of the hotel 
was an enormous young St. Bernard dog, who clapped his two 
front paws on my shoulders, and stood up before me nearly 

16^ 



228 KOTES OF TRAVEL. 

as tall as myself. I was startled for a moment, but was 
instantly relieved by our old hostess who assured me he 
was only in play ; which indeed I should soon have dis- 
covered by his manner, and by the smile upon his counte- 
nance. They are magnificent, noble animals. They have 
two of them here, both born on St. Bernard. — After a dinner 
which I relished with unusual zest, and a pleasant chat with 
my agreeable travelling companions, I retired to rest, with 
the winds howling around me and rattling the shattered case- 
ments of my little chamber as if it were mid-winter. — As this 
was Saturday evening, I had consulted with my Reverend 
friends about the propriety of travelliiig on Sunday. They 
assured me it was perfectly allowable, if we would first at- 
tend mass in the chapel close by. 

30th. — We consequently rose at 6 o'clock, and one of our 
friends having performed mass in the curious quaint little old 
chapel of the Simplon, where we all attended, we took our 
dish of Coffee and proceeded on our way. After ascending 
in a zig-zag manner for 5 or 6 miles, and crossing several 
torrents on fine bridges we came to the old Hosjnce, a large 
building on our left, and then, within a mile or two to the 
new Hospice, which stands on the right, and which was 
commenced by Napoleon, but is not yet finished. Here the 
road makes a sudden turn to the right, and the highest ele- 
vation is attained, about 6,000 feet above the sea. Now 
you might imagine, as I had done, that from so elevated a 
point, a magnificent prospect should be enjoyed. But this is 
not the fact ; nothing can be conceived of, more awfully de- 
solate and dreary then these elevated regions. Here is little 
or no vegetation to greet the eye, and all around is one sterile, 
barren scene of naked granite peaks, worn into high and jag- 
ged points by the tremendous storms of many centuries, to 
which these regions are liable. The deep and unearthly si- 
lence, and the stupendousness of the desolate gigantic crags 
arround you, are however very impressive. One feels one- 
self the merest pigmy, the merest atom amid the immensity 
of the scene ! 

I had again preceded the coach on foot, but here I got 
upon the box, and we commenced descending. Plere we had 



NOTES OF TRAVEL. 229 

a view of stupendous magnitude — the whole descent of the 
Simplon, the Valais, and the immense range of snow-capt 
Alps beyond ! At our feet laid the little city of Brieg, into 
which it seemed as if one could shoot a musket-ball, but 
which was at least 15 or 18 miles distant. The scenery on 
this side of the mountain, ahhough immense, bears no com- 
parison with the grandeur and wildness on the Italian &ide. 
We came on to Brieg after a most delightful and exciting 
ride of 24 miles of descent, for breakfast, and were served 
with a dish of chamois-meat, which we found delicious. 
We congratulated ourselves greatly for having been favoured 
with a cloudless sky in our passage of the Simplon, for in 
cloudy weather, the scenery must lose nearly all its inter- 
est. It is astonishing to see, on the Swiss side, at what im- 
mense elevationSj and on what small terraces they build 
their cottages. They look like bird's nests stuck upon the 
mountain's brow, with the most frightful abysses beneath 
them ! It was a matter of constant wonder to me how they 
preserve their children from falling over ! 

In regard to that stupendous monument of human dar- 
ing and human skill, the Simplon Road, I will beg to 
introduce the words of a late writer, Dr. Wm. Beattie : — 
"It may be safely affirmed that nothing short of occular 
demonstration can furnish anything like an adequate idea 
of the wonders presented by a survey of this unrivalled 
pass. In the hardihood of its plan and the skill and perse- 
verance displayed in its construction, human daring and hu- 
man ingenuity seem to have been carried to their ne plus 
ultra, and to have perfected and realized what in remoter 
ages would have been considered as an idle speculation. It 
is one of the few achievements of human hands, which im- 
agination can scarely invest with additional grandeur, and 
where the reality of the picture justifies the most extrava- 
gant anticipations. It was an enterprise which nothing but 
the most gigantic ambition could have contemplated, and 
nothing but the most consummate science, skill, and intre- 
pidity could have accomplished. It seems to address every 
traveller in the words of Gaillard : 

" Voila ce que peuvent Vindustrie, Vaudace ei la perstve- 
rence I" 



230 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

Unlike the wonders of antiquity — the pyramids, or the 
great wall of China, the results of mere physical labour, and 
where nature in a passive state offered small resistance to 
the operations of art — the route of the Simplon is to be view- 
ed as the proudest monument of man's genius, where in con- 
tinued conflict with the awful operations of nature, his perse- 
verance was attended by incessant peril, and where the fall 
of rocks, or the rush of avalanches were constantly threat- 
ening his life, or impeding his progress/' 

The road extends from Crevola to Brieg, a distance of 40 
miles, and was projected, as you know, by Napoleon, and fin- 
ished by him in the astonishingly short period of 4 years. It 
is in every part 25 feet wide, and has in no part a steep- 
er grade than li inches in 6 feet. It passes over 50 bridges 
that span either chasms, torrents or streams, and through six 
tunnels pierced through the hardest granite rock, measuring 
as wide as the road, and at least 30 feet high. Some of these 
tunnels or galleries are stupendous efforts of skill. One of 
them, the Grande Gallerie, is 202 paces long. Just beyond 
this is the frightful cascade of Frissinone, which falls from 
above into an almost unfathomable abyss, with a thundering 
noise that makes the very mountains tremble, and renders 
you incapable of hearing your own voice .' It really required 
all the courage of which I ^vas capable to look over the par- 
apet wall into the horrid gulf below. There are several 
other magnificent cascades along this part of the road. The 
rain-water that is collected on the road, as well as that which 
falls on it from the smaller torrents, is carried under the foun- 
dations of the road by means of wells smik to an immense 
depth. In the chasms beneath, lie in all directions, gigantic 
fragments of rocks, or rather of mountains, that have been 
hurled down from time to time by the avalanches. In nooks 
at various distances along side of the road, are erected ten or a 
dozen substantial stone buildings, called vialsons de refuge, 
designed for the shelter of travellers who may be overtaken 
by storms in these dangerous passes. 

From Breig we set out at 2 P. M. and, passing through 
Glys and Visp, and several other smaller towns, came on to 
7'ourlemagncio sleep. Up a small dell near this village is a 
very fine cascade in one of the tributaries of the Rhone. 



NOTES OP TRAVEL. 231 

31sT.^ — We rose at 5 o'clock this morning, and came as 
far as Sion, where we arrived at 10 o'clock to breakfast. 
Cm* course was along the left bank of the Rhone, until we 
arrived at Sierre, one of the prettiest towns of the Valais, 
where we crossed to the right bank by a fine bridge. ,We 
also passed Leuk on this day's route, where there are baths of 
considerable celebrity. — Sion, capital of the Canton Valais^ 
contains between 3 and 4000 inhabitants, and is most roman- 
tically situated on the edge of a luxuriant plain at the base of 
two precipitous and elevated spurs of the Alps called Tour- 
hillion and Valeria. These are crowned by the picturesque 
ruins of castles, towers and churches of very ancient date. 
On the ascent of these two curious elevations, and partly be- 
tween them stands the ancient and romantic palace of the 
Bishop of Sion. To the South-west on the outside of the 
city walls, is another abrupt and picturesque elevation sur- 
mounted by an immense Convent of substantial structure. 
The streets of Sion are narrow and extremely filthy. The 
houses are of stone, very high, with their upper stories 
projecting beyond the basement, which makes the streets 
appear very gloomy. The Cathedral is a curious old 
building, decorated in the oddest style. by antiquated orna- 
ments. The inhabitants of this place are decidedly the worst 
looking specimens of the human race I have ever seen. 
They are of a low stature, having broad shoulders, long 
arms, bowed legs, illy-formed heads set on short necks, and 
are generally aifected with goitre. The expression of the 
countenance is excessively stupid, often bordering on idiocy. 
Cretinism is so common an afi'ection here that there is a spe- 
cial hospital of large size built for their use. I visited this 
institution, and the horrid idea of these disgusting and degra- 
ded looking objects haunted me for many days. 

We set out from Sion, and after passing many towns 
and villages, and re-crossing the Rhone at Riddes, halted at 
Martigny. This is a pretty little town, situated near the 
confluence of the Drance with the Rhone, it was inunda- 
ted and nearly annihilated by a most disastrous freshet 
in the former river in 1818. Here the Rhone makes a sud- 
den turn almost at a right angle changing fi'om a South-east 



232 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

to a South-west direction, and the valley becomes narrower 
by an approach of the mountains. From Martigny we pro- 
ceeded to the beautiful town of St. Maurice to sleep. About 
mid-way between these two towns we stopt to view a mag- 
nificent fall in the Sallenche called the Pissevache. In a 
deep, narrow dell of black rocks, at the immense elevation of 
700 feet, you get the first gUmpse of this powerful torrent, 
already whitened by the chafing of the rugged crags over 
which it passes before it becomes visible. Thence it leaps 
from precipice to precipice with increasing impetuosity, 
through a deep worn channel roughened by falling rocks, 
until, as it were, frantic by its downward impulsion, it makes 
its last desperate and headlong bound of 200 feet into a deep, 
boiling, foaming cauldron below ! From this rises a beauti- 
ful column of white spray, which spreads out into a delicate 
mantle that gracefully decks the rugged forms of the migh- 
ty Alps behind it. *S'/. Maurice is a beautiful clean little 
town, surrounded by fine avenues lined with majestic 
trees, forming delightful promenades. Its situation, be- 
tween the two mountain spurs or needles, called Dent die 
Midi and Dent de Morcles, rising to an elevation of 9 or 
10,000 feet by almost perpendicular walls, with barely suffi- 
cient space to admit the Rhone between them, is the most 
romantic imaginable. This is literally the key to the Canton 
Valais, for through the narrow space occupied by this town 
is the only entrance to it on le\^el ground, and is completely 
closed every night by a gate which is at once the gate of the 
town, and the gate of a bridge consisting of one magnificent 
arch, fully conceded to be of Roman construction. 

The great valley of the Rhone, which I have now traver- 
sed through nearly its whole length, is one of the most curi- 
ous and interesting districts in the world. Its climate at the 
same season, embraces every variety, from the scorching 
sun of Africa, to the bleak blasts of Lapland ; and its vege- 
table productions are as various. Its length is about SO 
mile?, and its breadth from 7 to S, and its centre is travers- 
ed, through its whole length by the Rhone. Its sides 
are bounded by steep, and often rugged and barren moun- 
tains, rising from 5 to 10,000 feet, the highest of them capt 



KOTES OF TRAVEL. 233 

by e+ernal snow, from which numerous glaciers descend 
to within a short distance of the banks of the Rhone itself. 
More than 80 tributaries to this river descend from the moun- 
tain sides, and 18 or 20 habitable vallies open into the 
main one. The soil in its centre is the richest alluvion, sus- 
taining a luxuriant vegetation, among which are seen 
many of the productions of tropical regions. The fig tree, 
the almond tree, the lemon tree and the vine, produce abun- 
dantly in its central parts, while on its edge the seasons are 
scarcely of sufficient length to ripen the ordinary kinds of 
grain, and on the more elevated regions of the mountains 
vegetation ceases altogether. 

Leaving St. Maurice, our route continued along the valley 
of the Rhone, but at some distance from the river, until we 
approached the Lake of Geneva, into which it falls. As soon 
as we came in sight of the lake, our little Geneve;^ lady 
commenced clapping her hands and crying out "O mon cher 
lac ! mo7i beau lac ! iiia belle patrie .''^ at the same time 
shedding floods of tears. The coachman in alarm, stopped his 
horses, and we had a real scene of hysterics. This was her 
first return to her country after an absence of three years. We 
came on as far as St. Gingouph, situated on the edge of the 
lake on the Savoy side, to dine, and took a rest of three hours. 
This gave us an opportunity of enjoying, very satisfactorily, 
the enchanting and lovely scenery along this part of the lake. 
The Swiss side here is peculiarly beautiful. I was able to 
count from this point 16 towns and villages, of Avhich the 
principal one is Vevay, on the opposite shore of the lake, 
reposing on the gentle slope of the hills amid a country the 
most rich, varied and charming. This unrivalled, this per- 
fectly beautiful picture, seen on one of the most peacefully 
([uiet Indian siunmer days, can never be effaced from my 
memory ! 

We proceeded as far as Thonon, keeping close along the 
borders of the lake, whose exquisite beauties, particularly 
' o n the opposite side, we were thus enabled fully to enjoy. 
There was a fair here, very largely attended by the neigh- 
boring peasantry, which afforded me great amusement. I 
here for the first time saw women riding along on asses and 
mules a caltfourchon, with the most perfect nonchalance. 



234 KOTES OF TRAVEL. 

SEPTEMBER— 1841. 

"1st. — This morning at 9^ o'clock I arrived in the delight- 
ful Uttle city of Geneva, and stopt at La Couronne, whose 
foundations are washed by the waters- of lovely Lake Le- 
man! My first object was to search out the Post-Office, 
where I received letters from home. The remainder of this 
day, a charming Indian-Summer like one, was spent in 
rambling at hazard about the city. 

Geneva is built on the borders of the lake of Geneva, 
at its Western end, where the Rhone makes its exit from 
it, and divides the city into two unequal parts. It con- 
tains 30,000 inhabitants, and is strongly fortified with a 
double wall, bastions and a ditch. The ground occupied 
by the portion of the city on the left bank of the river, is ir- 
regular, rising to a considerable elevation from the edge of 
the l^^^e, which it consequently overlooks. The Northern 
and smaller part of the city, rises in like manner from the 
banks of the Rhone, Many of the streets in the upper part 
of the town, are narrow and tortuous ; but those near the 
quai are straight and wide, and some of them even elegant. 
The houses are substantially built of stone, generally five or 
^six stories high. With few exceptions, the public buildings 
are not remarkable. The Cathedral is a large edifice after 
the plan of the rotunda at Rome ; and the Muse Rath, the 
depository of paintings and statues, is a chaste Grecian buil- 
ding. The Botanic Garden, created by M. De Gondolle, 
and thrown open to the public, is kept in the most perfect 
order , and forms a charming promenade. The orangery is 
large and has its front decorated with busts of celebrated 
Genevese botanists. In the garden is also a lajge building 
for the reception of models of agricultural implements, and 
contains the Herbaria, among which is that presented by 
the celebrated Haller. The garden is terminated on one side 
by the city wall and two bastions, which are both tastefnlly 
laid out in walks, and planted with trees and shrubs, and on 
the other side by an elevated terrace which overlooks it. 
This Terrace, called La Treille, is planted with rows of 
majestic trees, and furnished with benches, forming one of 
the most delightful lounges in the world. At the tor.ninatiori 



NOTES OF TRAVEL. 235 

oi' this terrace, is the Place de la Porte-Neuve, with the 
Muse Rath ah'eady mentioned, and the Theatre facing each 
other. From the square, and in a continuous hne with La 
Treille, runs La Rue de la Corruteriey the most magnificent 
street in the city, flanked with splendid new houses and 
beautiful shops. This is the Cliesnut street of Geneva. The 
Place Maurice, or &t. Antoine is an(>$her magnificent es- 
planade, planted with trees and furnished with seats. The 
two parts of the city are joined by several bridges across the 
Rhone. Those opposite the Place du Bel-Air are of woodl- 
and rest upon a small island in the river ; but the one at the 
outlet of the lake, called the Pont des Bergues, is a magnifi- 
cent stone structure. Near its middle is- a large round plat- 
form, from which leads an elegant wire foot-bridge to a small 
triangular island, situated in the middle of the river just at its 
exit from the lake^ called V Isle de J, J. Rousseau. This has 
a fine statue of Rousseau in its centre, is beautifully embel- 
lished with shrubs and flowers, and provided with seats. It 
atFords an extensive and charmmg view of the lake and 
its delightfully picturesque shores. It is really a most char- 
ming spot ! In the evenings a fine band of music is stationed 
here, to play for the amusement of visitors. The quais on. 
both sides of the river in this part of the cit}^, are wide and 
beautifully^flanked by tall and elegant buildings, among which 
is conspicuous the great Hotel des Bergues, one of the larg- 
est and perhaps the best kept hotel in Europe: Many por- 
tions of the ramparts in ditferent directions alford delightful 
walks and enchanting Aaews of the surrounding country and 
the neighbouring mouiitaius. 

2d. — Rose at 5 o'clock, and was occupied in. my room 
until 8, when I went to the Caffe Bel-Air where I got a cup 
of delicious French coftee, fresh roll and delightful Swiss 
butter ; luxuries I relished keenly after so long an abstinence 
in Italy. I here met my two travelling companions Drs. 
Devit and Valitenelli, with whom I went to call on Mad. 
Trayon who had also been of our company. My friends be- 
ing desirous of making some purchases of jewellery for their 
relatives at home, engaged Mad. T. to act as guide ; as she 
k a native of Geneva and well acquainted. I was glad of 



236 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

SO good an opportunity of seeing the ricli and magnificent 
jewellery shops of this city, the manufacture of which is the 
chief branch of industry here ; and so accompanied them. 
The quantity and splendoyr of the jewellery in Geneva is ab- 
solutely inconceivable by one that has not been here. 
There are many five and six-story houses of immense size 
filled from the ground floor to the garret with nothing but 
time-pieces, watches and jewellery. The value of such 
store-houses of gold and precious articles is incalculable ! 

I now left my friends, and went to call on Prof. De Con- 
dolle, who, however, was seriously ill of dropsy, and could 
not be seen. His son received me with great kindness, 
and promised to present me to his father so soon as he 
should be well enough. — At 5 o'clock I dined at the Grand 
Hotel de VAigle^ and then rejoined my Reverend friends by 
appointment, to make a visit to the manufacturing village of 
Carouge. It contains 3,000 inhabitants, and is delightfully 
situated on the banks of the Arve, about half a league from 
Geneva, in the midst of a charming country, interspersed 
with innumerable villas. On our return, we dropped in to 
see a panoramic view of Napoleon's funeral, a pretty well 
got up thing, and finished the day over a glass of iced cream 
at the Bel Air. 

'^■Q. — Rose at 5, read and Avrote until S, and joined my 
friends over a cup of fine Caffe'* au lait at the Bel Air, af- 
ter which v/e made several calls, and then paid a visit to 
the Museum of Natural History. The whole collection is 
kept in excellent order; the departments of ornithology and 
numismatology are particularly rich. There are some anti- 
quities also worthy of note. 

After an early dinner at the Couronnc, I took an omnibus 
for Ferney, the residence of Voltaire, on the frontier of 
France, distant about six miles. In the omnibus I took my 
seat by the side of an elderly gentleman with whom I com- 
menced a conversation, of course in French ; he soon detec- 
ted my foreign accent, and observed '^Sie sprechen Deufsch .^" 
I replied in the affirmative in German, and the conversation 
was continued in this language. ^ly inaccuracies here again 
betrayed me, and my friend addressing me in good English^ 



NOTES OF TRAVEL. 237 

remarked, "you speak English, I presume, Sir ;'^ I replied, 
yes, and continued speaking English. After some inter- 
change of remarks, he suddenly broke out in a tone of great 
certainty, "I have discovered your nation at last, you must 
be an American.'' I was not so fortunate in giving nation- 
ality to my friend, for he spoke all the languages of which 
we had made trial, with equal ease and fluency, and I was 
obliged to resort to a direct question to ascertain it. He was 
a Russian. I had already had frequent occasions to remark 
the great fluency and correctness of accent with which Rus- 
sians speak foreign languages. It had often excited my 
astonishment, and I felt very curious to know the reason. 
I asked my companion for an explanation, and demanded of 
him whether the common reason given was correct, that, a 
pair of jaws once dislocated and a tongue rendered elastic by 
shaping and rolling out of the long, jagged burr-stone-like 
Avords of the Russian language, were able, by the plasticity 
thus acquired, to accommodate themselves to all other sounds 
of less difficulty. He took the joke pleasantly, and went on 
to explain in what manner this great degree of accuracy in 
foreign languages is attained in Russia. The primary steps 
of education, said he, are conducted in families who supply 
their children with competent ladies as tutoresses, who speak 
the languages which they design tliem to learn. Thus the 
children are taught to speak the different languages from 
their infancy, and are instructed in their grammatical con- 
struction only when they grow up, so that foreign languages 
are to them as their mother tongue. This, it appears to me, 
is the simple and only true method of teaching persons to 
speak foreign languages fluently. 

The whole village of Ferney which once contained 1200 
inhabitants, was created and owned by Voltaire. His chat- 
eau is an old fashioned building, without any thing extraor- 
dinary either in dimensions or location; but the park com- 
mands some magnificent views. As the property has chans:- 
ed hands frequently since Voltaire's death, it has undergone 
numerous alterations. Nothing indeed now exists in its 
pristine condition, except his chaitiber and the terrace cov- 
ered with a trellis, that commands a splendid view of Mont 

17 



238 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

Blanc and the neighbouring mountains, upon which it is said 
lie used to walk with great strides, when under the inspira- 
tion of his compositions. His chamber is just as he left it, 
with his bed, its curtains and all the furniture. The walls 
are decorated with a portrait of himself, one of Mad. du 
Chatelet, one of Frederick the Great, presented by himself, 
one of Dr. Franklin, and a likeness of Queen Catherine, 
worked in tapestry by her own hands. Here is also the small 
pyramidal monument in black marble, which once contained 
his heart, but which has since been removed to the Pantheon 
in Paris, and bears the following inscription : 

^'Soji esprit est par tout, maisson coeiir estici.^^ 

There is a curious picture shown here, said to have been 
designed by Voltaire himself, and painted in a wretched 
manner by some one he picked up at Ferney. In the fore- 
ground is the poet, presenting the Henriade to Apollo ; in 
the back-ground are represented his bust being carried by 
the Muses and Graces to the Temple of Memory ; while his 
literary adversaries, with the leaves of the works written 
against him flying in all directions, are tumbling heels over 
head, with horrible grimaces, into the infernal regions. — Op- 
posite to the chateau is the chapel erected for the benefit of 
his colony, with the following inscription : "Z^eo erexit Vol- 
taire.^^ We asked his eld servant who is still the cicerone 
of the place, whether Voltaire ever frequented the chapel 
himself.'' He replied with emphasis, '^jamais, jamais.^^ 

This evening I called on ]Mons. TVoIf, to whom I had a 
note of introduction from his daughter, JNIrs. Buck of New 
York. I was kindly invited to take a dish of tea, of which 
I accepted, and found a small party of English ladies and 
gentlemen present. I spent the evening delightfully ; it was 
more American than anything I had met with cast of the 
Atlantic, and brought you all strongly to my recollection. 

4th. — I rose at 5 o'clock, and accompanied my friends 
Drs. Devit and Valetinelli to the Diligence-office, where they 
liad taken seats for Paris. I parted with them with sincere 
regret, for I have met with no travelling companions so af- 
fable, intelligent and liber:*!, since I left home. 

After breakfast I liunted up Mad. Vicat, one of our trav- 
elling companions on the Uiica, who hud kindly carried part 



NOTES OF TRAVEL, 235 

of my baggage with her to Geneva. Among it I found 
some pamphlets directed to Prof. De Condolle. I took them 
to his house, but was informed that he was still too ill to see 
strangers, and was growing v/orse. I spent the morning in 
rambling through the city, and returned to the Couronne to 
dine, where Prof. De Condolle, jr. did me the honor to call, 
and invited me to see him after dinner. I spent a short 
time very agreeably with him, and. should have been de- 
lighted to have had more of his instructive and interesting 
conversation, had it not been for the extreme illness of his 
father. He accompanied me to the Reading Rooms, to 
which he gave me a ticket of admittance for a month, and 
then introduced me to his friend Dr. Coinset, who very po- 
litely offered me the use of his library during my stay in the 
city, and to show me the Institution for the Insane, which is 
imder his care. I availed myself of the benefit of the ticket 
so kindly offered by M. De Condolle, and spent the eve- 
ning a,t the Reading Rooms. They are well supplied with 
newspapers and other periodicals from all countries ; French, 
German, English, American, &c., &c., and a valuable and 
large collection of books. I h-ere again met my old friend 
Dr. George. 

5th. — I rose at m.y usual hour, 5 o'clock, and after spend- 
ing several hours in my room, went to the Gaffe Bel Air for 
my roll and coffee. This is Sunday, and appears to be kept 
here more like it is at home than any place I have been at 
in Europe. 

I took a long stroll after breakfast, through the charming 
village of Eaux Vives^ one of the suburbs of Geneva ; and 
then called on M. Wolf, who resides here. I found the fam- 
ily at breakfast, and availed myself of this time to view the 
neat grounds attached to the dwelling. I accompanied the 
Rev. Mr. VvVif, the son. and Mrs Gray and her two daugh- 
ters, English ladies who hoard in the house, to church. The 
was large and attentive. Tiie services q'l 
in French. — After church, I accompanied the 
ladies in a long walk to Plalnjjalals, another suburb, to call 
on the Rev. M. Bast, a Clergyman and an author, and the 
iriend of the late Rev. IM. Neff, advantageously known for 



S4(y SOTES OF TRAVEL.- 

his great and benevolent labours among the inhabitants of the- 
Pligh Alps. I returned with them to M. Wolf's, where I 
was invited to dine by the Rev. M. Wolf, with, whom I had 
a long and pleasant conversation. He intends to go over to 
New York, to take charge of" a French congregation there. — 
After dinner, I complied whh the polite invitation of Mr. 
Gray to visit the Cemetery, near PlainpaJais. It is dehght- 
fuUy planted with trees, shrubs and flowers, (among which 
the weeping-willov/ and the weeping-ash are conspicuous) 
and is kept in the neatest order. INIany of the lots are 
provided with seats, for the accomodation of the owners, 
Avho appear to resort here in great numbers. I was equally 
surprised and dehghted to find here the grave of Sir Hiun- 
phrey JDavy, who died at Geneva in 1S29. Over it is erect- 
ed a plain tomb of white stone, beautifully shaded Vv'ith ever- 
greens, bearing a simple inscription in Latin. 

6tii. — Rose at 5, and was occupied until a late hour in 
reading and v/riting in my room, when I went to the Bel- 
Air for my Caffe aulait and the morning news. The Cuffe 
Bel-Air is charmingly situated on the Flace du Bel-Air, on 
the banks of the Rhone, whose beautiful mazarine waves 
dance so merrily in the soft sunshine of this enchanting cli- 
mate. I have liever seen \vater so beautifully tinged as that 
of the Rhone at its exit from Lake Leman. — With the excep- 
tion of making out a plan of a tour through Switzerland, by 
the kind assistance of the Rev. jSIv. Wolf, this day was spent 
in lounging at random through this charming little city, and 
in visiting numerous enchanting points of view in its vi- 
einity. The whole couniry in the neighborhood of Geneva, 
is so thickly studded whh villages, hamlets, villas and coun- 
try houses, that it presents the appearance from many points 
of one gigantic city, hemmed in by snow capped mountains 
and interspersed with shady parks, extensive lawns and in- 
numerable gardens, with a magnificent lake in its centre 1 
My eyes feasted upon the grandeur and magnificence of 
these scenes, until I became lost in the most delightfnl reve-f 
iies ! — This evening I sp^nt at the roading-rooni. On my 
return to my lodgings, I found several letters from home, 
^vhich gave me a slight touch of home-sickness. 



l^OTES OF TRAVEL. 241 

7th — Rose at my usual ho\ir, 5 o'clock, and assorted all 
my baggage ; for I find it nocessjiry to send part of my effects 
/such as I have purchased on my route,) to Paris, and anoth- 
er part to Munich, where I expect to rejoin it. As much 
<as is indispensable for my present use, I have packed into 
.a knapsack ; for I mean to travel a considerable distance on 
.foot, through Switzerland. After breakfast I called on Prof. 
JSIanuGtr, whose politeness and attentien were particular- 
ly gratifying to me. The Doctor received his medical edu- 
cation in Edinborough, and speaks English like an Eng- 
lishman. He is a distinguished occulist, and has made some 
improvements in tho operation for the extraction of cataract. 
He is moreover, a thorough republican, and was highly 
pleased with one of my small copies of the Btdaration of 
ludependejice, v/hich I presented to him. He gave me a 
note to his friend Dr. Z)55/?me, physician io t\\<d Penitentiary.^^ 
who politely invited me to attend liis visit. It is qvl the Au- 
burn plan, and is kept in perfect neatness and order. Dr. E. 
says that cases of in sanit^r in the institution are quite com- 
mon, and thinks they occur more frequently under this sys- 
tem than they do under that of solitary confinement. — At the 
table d^ hote, I made the acqaintance of Mr. Spatz, a law- 
'3^er from Frankentahl in Bavaria, with whom I agreed to 
make a tour to Chamouni. After securing our seats in the 
Diligence, we took a long walk, and 1 returned to my room. 

8th. — -I rose at 5 o'clock, took my breakfast, and hastened 
to the Diligence-office to join my travelling companion Mr. 
Spatz. At 7 o'clock, we mounted the cabriolet of the Dili- 
gence, and soon passed the Porte Neuve, ou our way to the 
l^alley of Chamoiini at the foot of Mount Blaue. After 
passing the town of Chesne, the last in the canton of Gene- 
va, we soon turned'to the right along the banks of the Arve 
to Bonville, where the valley becomes narrow, being flank- 
ed by the mountains of Le Mole and Le Brezon. We here 
crossed the ^^rve on a wooden bridge, and ta'avelled along a 
iine road through a finely cultivated and dch valley tto Cluse, 
situated in a narrow defile of the^mountains, and here recros- 
sed the river. The scenery thus ifar has .been very inter- 
vfistiDg^ being rendered picturesque hj the chateaux that 



242 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

crown the neighbouring monntains, and' several pretty ruin>. 
Between Cluse and St. il/«r/m the valley becames narrower, 
the mountains rise to greater elevations, and the scenery as-^ 
sumes a more wild and savage aspect. At a short distance 
beyond Cluse, on the side of the mountain, elevated far 
above the valley, is t'.e opening of an immense cave, called 
the Caverne dc Balme. But as you know my dislike to go- 
ing under gromid before iny. tiiMe, you will not be surprised 
that I did not visit it. Near the little village of Maglan, is 
the most astonishing echo. We hired some men to fire a 
small cannon, which produced a sublime effect. It resembled 
precisely the sharp clear sound of a tremendous stroke of 
thunder, which reverberated from mountain to mountain,, 
for at least half a minute. The Nant cPAvpcnas is a beauti- 
ful cascade which falls 800 feet from the side of a mountain. 
The whole valley of the Arve is a cakarious formation, un- 
til within a short distance of St. Martin, where it begins to^ 
be slatey. Near this place is a large formation of beautiful 
black marble. 

We arrived St. Martin at 4 P. M., and stopt at the Hotel 
du Mont Blanc. Our company in the stage to-day was ex- 
ceedingly agreeable ; consisting of a gentleman, Mr. Fuersty 
his lady and son from Berlin, a Danish gentleman and two 
liighly accomplished ladies, and several young French and 
German gentleman. — After dinner Mr. Spatz, and severai 
other gentleman of om' party, and myself, took a walk tO' 
Sallenche, a considerable town on the opposite side of the 
Arve, which is crossed by a fine stone bridge. This towa 
was nearly annihilated last year, by a fire which consumed 
320 houses. We met a priest in the street, of whom we 
asked some q-uestions, and he very politely offered himself 
as a guide, and conducted us to several magnificent paints of 
view. We returned in time to see a sun-set over Mont Blanc 
fiom the bridge, which is considered one of the most magni- 
ficent spectacles in the world. It was sublimely grand ! 

9th. — W^e set out at 5 oxlock on a charmingly cool and 
bracing morning, for Chamouni in small vehicles called 
chars-a-bimc, the only kind that the roads admit of being em- 
uloyed. They have four low wheels with a bencli oai onet 



NOTES OF TRAVEL. 243 

side, long enough to aiford two seats, ard a kind of box, 
running almost to the ground, to put the feet in. Your posi- 
tion in them is sidewise, and hence they are sometimes 
called chars-a-cote. They are drawn by one horse. At a 
little distance from St. Martin, we passed the small village 
of Passy, where several ex voto tablets, with Roman inscrip- 
tions, were found. It is curious to observe the enterprise of 
the Romans, whose explorations carried them into these re- 
mote and difficult mountain-passes. Opposite the village of 
Chede and at the foot of the Col de Forllaz are the celebra- 
ted baths of St. Gervais. After passing the charming little 
lake of Chede, several falls in the Arve, and some frightful 
torrents amid scenery that grows every moment more wild 
and sublime, we arrived at Servoz. From this place, we 
turned to the right, and after passing the Dioza, a very ra- 
pid stream, crossed the Arve on a wooden bridge at Pont, 
le Pelessier. Here commences the Valley of Chamouni, 
a frightful gorge formed by the most stupendous mountains 
of the old world, that is barely sufficient to transmit the 
Arve and a wretched and uncertain road. Numerous 
magnificent glaciers descend from the towering summit of 
Mont Blanc into the gorge below, from which rushing and 
furious torrents proceed that have worn horrible guUies in 
the mountain sides. Nothing can exceed the savage wild- 
ness and awful sublimity of these scenes ! At one moment 
they cause one's skin to creep with chills that make the hair 
bristle, and at another one is flushed with a violent rush of 
blood to the surface that strains every pore ! — The frequent 
occurrence of carbonaceous slate in this part of the valley 
rendered it strongly probable to my mind that there is an 
abundance of coal in the mountains. There are a few small 
patches in the upper part of the valley that admit of culti- 
vation, and here the scanty crop of grain is just ripening. 
Black cherries are barely ripe, and wild strawberries are 
abundant. 

The wild and romantic valley or gorge of Chamouni ap- 
pears to have remained untrodden by human footsteps from 
the time that it was formed by that stupendous convulsion 
of nature which upheaved the gigantic monarch of the Alps, 

17*" 



244 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

Mont Blanc, whose snow-capt summit towers more than 
15,000 feet above the level of the ocean, until 1741, when 
it was discovered by two English travellers, Messrs. Pocock 
and Windham. It is elevated itself more than 3,000 feet 
above the level of the ocean, and is hemmed in by ranges 
of stupendous mountains. A dreary and desolate winter 
reigns here from the beginning of October to the end of 
May, during which time the ground is covered with from 
3 to 12 feet of snow, and the thermometer seldom mdi- 
cates more than 65 degrees at mid-da3\ There are few 
days, even in summer, when fires can be dispensed 
with. Notwithstanding these natural disadvantages, there 
are a number of small hamlets strung along its bottom. The 
valley of Chamouni is justly celebrated for the abundance of 
delicious honey it yields, and it is truly most delicate. — We 
arrived at the village of Chamouni about 10 A. M., and 
stopt at the Union, where we found an excellent dejune a 
lafourchette awaiting us ; to which I assure you we did full 
justice. After breakfast, we engaged a guide and prepared 
to ascend Montanvert, to get a view of the famous Mer de 
Glace, I here provided myself with that necessary imple- 
ment for ascending these rugged mountains, an Alp-staff, 
made of light, strong wood, measuring about 6 feet long, 
tipped with a strong pike below, and a chamois horn above. 
It was stamped with the word Chamouni, the importance 
of which I did not understand at the time ; but at a later pe- 
riod found that it produced something of that kind of respect 
that is produced by the peculiar turban among IMahomedans, 
which mdicates the owner to be a Hadjy, and that he has made 
the pilgrimage to Mecca. — About 11 o'clock we crossed the 
Arve, which is here but a noisy brook, and commenced the 
ascent. The path is tortuous, steep and often rugged, leading 
sometimes through thick pine forests, at other times along 
barren precipices and over gorges deep-worn by the moun- 
tain torrent, or scooped out by the descending avalanche. 
Many of the views from this path are awfully grand ! You 
hang almost perpendicularly over the deep gorge of Chamou- 
ni, and thick around you stand the snow-capt domes and 
barren granite needles of the stupendous Alps ! About 



NOTES OF TRAVEL. 245 

fnidway up the mountain, gushing from a granite precipice, is 
a crystal fountain that pours its delicious waters in great pro- 
fusion down its sides. Here we found children with bottles 
of milk, bread and fruit, which they had brought from the 
valley below to supply travellers. After regaling ourselves 
delightfully, we agam proceeded, and arrived at the top af- 
ter about 3 hours spent in the ascent. Here we are, at an 
elevation of nearly 6,©00 feet ; and vegetation, which had 
been gradually diminishing, ceases, and the region of per- 
petual snow commences. On the pinnacle of Montanvert, 
and overhanging the great Mer de Glace, is a small build- 
ing occupied as a house of entertainment, from which I ob- 
tained the first view of this stupendous glacier. The impres- 
sion it made upon me is indescribable ! It much resembled 
'that made by seeing the ocean for the first fime, except that 
it was accompanied by a greater sense of my own insignifi- 
cance, a feeling of a kind of inward vacancy, as if I was 
on the point of being annihilated ! I stood for some time 
upon its edge immoveable, petrified — not daring to step or 
utter a word! The dead and awful silence that reigned 
amid these stupendous scenes of desolation, was painful- 
ly impressive! My head reeled with vertigo, and I sat 
'down upon a rock overcome by my feelings ! — The width 
of the Mer de Glace at this point is about 2h miles, its 
thickness is unknown, but must be hundreds of feet, and its 
Avhole length has never been explored. The whole of the 
-glacier, as far as it can be seen from this point, is thick- 
ly studded with pyramids of ice, rising from the height of 
a few feet to that of 18 or 20. The most common mode of 
describing this extraordinary body of ice, is to compare it to 
•an ocean suddenly frozen while under the influence of a 
mighty hurricane, whose violence has thrown its surface in- 
to powerful agitation. This is perhaps the most just concep- 
tion of it that can be conveyed ; and yet I feel that it is far 
from being accurate. Our guides led us by a circuitous, 
steep and rugged path upon the glacier itself, near the great 
flat granite rock called La Pierre des Anglais, upon which 
Messrs. Pocock and Windham dined when they discovered 
4he valley, and upon which their names and the date of 



246 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

their visit are inscribed in red paint. The surface of the 
glacier is traversed in all directions between the pyramids ot' 
ice by fissures of greater or less width, and often of unfath- 
omable depth, in which you can barely hear the distant 
sound of running water at the bottom. The sides of these 
fissures at the top, present a beautiful emerald green co- 
lour, which grows deeper and deeper as you look lower in- 
to them, until it terminates in the blackness of darkness. 
As the water of the melting snow has worn the ice on the 
sides of the fissures in such a manner as to have a strong in- 
clination towards them, their approach is rendered extreme- 
ly dangerous, and the only safe way of looking into them, 
is, to lie down on your face and make the guide take a firm 
grip of your leg, and then move yourself forward on your 
ellbows until you get your face over the edge. If fragments 
of ice are thrown into these crevices, you hear a long con- 
tinued rumbling sound, becoming more and more indistinct 
until at last a faint splash is heard, as if they had fallen into 
water. The glacier at this elevation is flanked on both sides 
by gigantic peaks of barren granite rock, whose tops are 
worn into numerous lofty spires by the continued attrition 
of rain and snow and storms, to which they have been ex- 
posed for ages. These impart to the scenery that chaotic 
appearance of barrenness and desolation, which makes such 
an overwhelming impression on persons who see it for the 
first time. 

After our return from the excursion on the Mer de Glace, 
we sat down to an excellent dinner provided at the little ho- 
tel, and then prepared for our descent. This I found more 
painful than the ascent, particularly as I was seized with an 
attack of rheumatism in the knee-joint. I arrived at Cha- 
mouni about half past seven o'clock, excessively fatigued by 
the labours and excitement of the day. 

10th. — After a sound night's rest, I set out at 5 o'clock in 
the morning in a char-a-banc, accompanied by my young ac- 
quaintance, Mr. Fuerst of Berlin. We arrived at St. Martin 
at 10 A. M. and, after a breaktast on some of the delicious 
honey of Chamouni, we took the Diligence for Geneva, 
where we arrived at 6 P. M. I esteemed myself peculiarly 



NOTES OP TRAVEL. 247 

fortunate in having had superb weather for my trip to these 
elevated regions ; for in hazy weather, which is very com- 
mon here, a visit must lose nearly all its interest. In the 
Diligence to-day, I met with a very agreeable and intelligent 
young lady from Hamburg, who is quite familiar with the 
works of Washington Irving and Cooper. 

11th. — I rose at 5 o'clock, and went to the Hotel des Ber- 
gues, to call on some friends who left here this morning for 
the South. After breakfast I called on Dr. Despine, who ac- 
companied me to the hospital, and introduced me to Dr. 
Manuoir, jr., the nephew of Prof. Manuoir, one of the sur- 
geons of the institution. After making his visit he invited 
me to attend the Post Mortem of a case of very unusual oc- 
currence in this city. Mania a Potu. Dr. Despine also re- 
turned to be present at the examination. Both these gentle- 
men agree in their statements that wine very seldom pro- 
duces mania, and when it does occur, it is from the exces- 
sive and long continued use of a kind of ivhite wine raised 
in the neighborhood ; and that no other wine has this effect. 
They both conceive the use of wine to be conducive to health 
and strength among the lower classes of their citizens. 

I called at Mr. Wolf's this afternoon, and there met a 
young countryman, the son of Prof. Olmstead of New York. 
He accompanied me in a long walk to pay my adieus to 
most of my favorite places of resort in and near this lovely 
city, for to-morrow I niitst tear myself away from it. We 
visited, among other objects, the Observatory, which is well 
furnished with elegant instruments and kept in perfect order. 
I returned to Mr. Wolf's, wliere I was invited to tea and 
spent the evening delightfully. 

After all that I have said, it is scarcely necessary to tell 
you how much I have been delighted with Geneva. The 
Canton is a perfect little state, and the city a little capital in 
miniature. The character of the inhabitants is as near per- 
fection as anything I expect to find in this sublunary world. 
It combines the deep, honest, and unpretending traits of 
the Germans, with their solid erudition, and the high polish 
and unaffected politeness of the French. 

12th. — Left Geneva at 8^ o'clock, A. M. on board of the 
beautiful little steamer Helvitie, for Lausanne, where I 



248 T^OTES or travel. 

arrived after a most enchanting voyage of four hours over the 
placid bosom of Lake Leman, and took lodgings at the Hotel 
Gibbon. The shore of the Swiss side is charming, a perfect 
fairyland! The city of Z^t^^anTze contains 10,000 inhabi- 
tants, and is situated at the distance of a mile and a half from 
the Lake, on an eminence elevated considerably above it. Its 
port is a small village called Ouchy. The site of the city is 
extremely hilly, and is divided by a deep ravine, through 
which a stream passes, and over which is being erected a su- 
perb stone bridge of great elevation. The streets are narrow 
and crooked, but many of the houses are spacious and ele- 
gant. Nothing can exceed the enchanting beauty of many 
of the views here of the lake, the opposite shore, the sur- 
rounding country and the city. Every point from which a 
view can be obtained, is delightfully shaded with trees, and 
furnished with seats ; and there are a great many charming 
walks in the vicinity. The chateau is a curious edifice of 
the 14th century, with high brick towers at its four corners, 
and is fronted by a terrace, which affords an extended view. 
The Cathedral is an imposing pile of Gothic architecture, 
containing numerous tombs finished in a style of great ele- 
gance. Its position is very elevated, and before it is a wide 
terrace furnished v/ith seats, and shaded with majestic horse- 
chesnut trees. The Hotel Gibbon, where I am lodged, is 
one of the finest edifices in the city, and is built upon the site 
^of the house of that celebrated historian where he ^composed 
his work on the Roman Empire. From my apartment, I 
have a magnificent view of -the lake and the surrounding 
country. 

13th. — Rose at an early .hour, and ascended an elevated 
mountain peak, opposite the city, crowned by a building call- 
ed the Signal, which aff'ords a grand view of the country. 
On my return, I paid a visit to the Museum of Natural 
History, in the college, a vast and venerable looking old 
pile, preceded by a grand court shaded with majestic 
trees The minerals are truly splendid, and embrace a dona- 
tion made by the Emperor Alexander, of Russia. Being de- 
sirous of seeing the Laboratory of the college, I addressed 
.mvself for information to one of the students in the Courl, 



NOTES OF TRAVEL.. 249* 

who conducted me to M. Mercanton, the Professor of Chem- 
istry. He received me with an unexpected degree of pohte- 
ness, and regretted that he was unable to show it to me at 
at that time, but most cordially invited me to call again, and 
also to examine h^s collection of minerals. I next went to 
hear the lecture of M. Fellenherg, the nephew of the cele- 
brated superintendent of the institution, of Hofwyl, who is a 
competitor for the chair of chemistry. It was on Nitrogen 
and its combinations. His experiments and explanations, 
it appeared to me, were not very happy, and he spoke the 
French with a strong German accent. I next went to see 
the Penitentiary/, a fine large sandstone building, in which 
the Auburn system is pursued. A number of benevolent 
persons have formed what is called La Societie de Patron- 
age, whose object it is to raise a fund for the purpose of re- 
lieving the destitute condition of convicts on their discharge. 
I returned to Prof. Mercanton's, who had invited me to tea, 
and spent a delightful evening, revelling in his well-stored 
library, (which he placed at my disposal during my stay in 
the city) and his choice mineralogical collection, which is 
truly superb. He knew Prof. Keating, of Philadelphia, and 
deeply regretted to hear of his death. 

14th. — I went to hear another young competitor for the 
chemical chair, on Carbon and its combinations. He was a 
very modest young gentleman from Heidelberg, whose ex- 
periments succeeded admirably. His accent was also strong- 
ly German. To-day I got an opportunity of seeing the La- 
boratory, and found iis admirable arrangements and the 
beauty of its chemical specimens, all of which it owes to 
Prof Mercanton, far to exceed my expectations, even after 
the great commendations I had heard of it. Prof IMercan- 
ton also showed me his vinegar manufactory, which inter- 
ested much, as it is conducted on strictly scientific princi- 
ples. I left Lausanne at 3 P. M. in flie Diligence, and after 
a delightful ride, arrived at Yuerdon at 8 o'clock in the eve- 
ning, and stopped at the Hotel de Londres. 

loTii. — I rose at 5§ o'clock, and went out to see the town. 
It is prettily built a't the head of the Lake of Neiichatel, but 
its situation appears somewhai low. It is celebrated for its 



250 NOTES OP TRAVEL. 

good schools. At 9^ A. M. I set out for A^euc/iaiel, onhoTxrd 
of a pretty little iron steamer, and arrived here at I25 P. M. 
The lake was covered with a very dense fog, which render- 
ed the voyage uninteresting. On boai'd I met with a 
very pleasant German gentleman, with his nephew, a fine 
intelligent lad about 14 years of age. They had nearly fin- 
ished a tour through the whole of Switzerland on foot. 

Xcuchatel contains 7000 inhabitants, and is situated on 
the declivity of a hill, which rises from the border of the lake 
of the same name. It must be a place of considerable 
wealth, judging from the fine rows of elegant houses. There 
"are numerous delightful walks in the vicinity, which are, as 
is usual in this country, planted with fine shade-trees, and 
provided with seats. The Gymnase is a vast and elegant 
edifice of yellow free stone, newly erected, designed to con- 
tain the JNIuseum of Natural History, the Library, the Col- 
lege apartments, &c. A part of the jNIuseum only is arran- 
ged, and exhibits the greatest neatness. It is rich in speci- 
mens of Ornithology, which are labelled with four difl'erently 
colored labels, to represent the four quarters of the globe ; 
so that the moment you cast your e^'e on a specimen, you 
know from what quarter it is derived. 

16th. — Set out this morning at 4 o'clock, in the Diligence 
for Bern. The morning was foggy, but it cleared away 
about sunrise, and I had some magnificent views of the 
mighty Alps. We passed through some extensive and dense 
lorests of majestic pines, which remined me strongly of 
some of our Western regions. The country was hilly, but 
well cultivated, and single country-houses took the place of 
villages. Here the houses are all built after the same fashion, 
with projecting roofs, and stables immediately adjoining. 
We arrived in Bern at 1 A. ^l. and I stopt at the Distel- 
zivang or Hotel dc (Tentles homines in the Rue de Justice, 
a fine large building, prettily situated and crowded with 
strangers. 

The city of Bern contains 18,000 inhabitants, and is deci- 
dedly among the prettiest I have seen in Europe. It reminds 
me much of Milan. It is beautifully situated on an elevated 
peninsula formed by the Aar, by which it is washed on 



NOTES OF TRAVEL. 251 

three sides. Its streets are straight, wide, well paved, and 
cross each other at right angles. Through the centre of the 
principal streets run deep streams of clear sparkling water, 
conducted in little canals whose sides are formed of hewn 
stones, and give them a charmingly cool and cheerful ap- 
pearance. — The houses are constructed of a gray sand-stone 
of an agreeable appearance, and are usually four stories 
high, and almost every window-sill is furnished v/ith cushions 
of some gay color, often scarlet, which are designed for the 
inmates to lean their elbows upon, while amusing them- 
selves by looking into the street. The first story recedes, 
and the second rests on arches, forming wide and continuous 
arcades, evenly paved with large stone slabs. These afford 
a deUghtful protection against sun and rain, and are fur- 
nished in the principal streets, with elegant shops, goods be- 
ing arranged on both sides with great neatness and taste. 
This gives the appearance of a continued, rich, and magni- 
ficent bazaar, through Avhich crowds of people are constantly 
moving. I found it a great source of amusement to loiter 
amid this endless variety of rich and beautiful goods. Through 
the city are also dispersed a number of spacious squares, de- 
lightfully shaded, that form charming retreats. The armori- 
al symbol of Bern you know is the bear, and it is curious to 
see this animal represented in every part of the cit}^, in sculp- 
ture and in painting, on their gates, on their fountains, on 
their public buildings ; and, not sa.tisfied with their mere 
representation, there is a bear-pit in which four or five large 
individuals are kept at the public expense. No city is better 
supplied than Bern with an abundance of delicious spring 
water, which is made to spout in profusion from numerous 
fountains, richly, and often fantastically embellished with 
sculpture, in which the hear plays no inconsiderable part. 

On one side of the main street, resting on an arcade, is a 
curious old square tower, called Zeitglocken Thurm. Two 
of its sides are occupied by large clock faces, and a third 
indicates the signs of the zodiac, the day of the month and 
week, and the phases of the moon. On the same side is a 
curious mechanical arrangement, by which a cock is made 
to advance and crow, once before and twice after the 



252 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

Striking of the hour ; a figure of a man strikes the Iiour upon 
a bell with a hammer whicli he holds in his hand, whilst a 
number of young bears advance and perform all kinds of 
grotesque evolutions. Another figure is seated on a throne, 
and holds a sceptre in one hand, which is lowered at each 
stroke of the clock, and an hour-glass in the other, which is 
turned at the same time. 

There are numerous charming promenades in and near the 
city, kept with the most scrupulous neatness. But decidedly 
the most delightful, is that on the terrace of ' the cathedral, 
which is elevated more than a hundred feet above the Aar, 
is shaded with noble trees and furnished with seats. From 
it one enjoys splendid views of the surrounding country,, 
traversed by its beautiful little river, and of the majestic 
snow-capt Alps of the Obei^land. There is here a well kept 
Coffee-House, provided with seats under the shade trees, 
where I used to enjoy my cup of Coffee and a segar with 
great zest. 

17th. — I rose at 5i, and read and wrote until S, when I 
took my breakfast at the Cuffe CommerciaL After break- 
fast, I amused myself in looking over the register of the ho- 
tel, where I fomid the name of Mr. H. Grimm of our coun- 
ty. I awaited his entrance, and had a long conversation 
with him. 

1 spent a number of hours in the Museum of Natural 
History, which contains extensive collections of quadrupeds 
and birds; but I cannot bestow much praise on the care of 
their preservation. They have a specimen of an enormous 
St. Bernard dog, who is said to have saved more than forty hu- 
man lives. The Herbarium, although small, is extremely neat. 
Th«3 specimens are kept in paste-board boxes tliat open in 
front, and are labelled after the natural system. The seeds 
and seed-vessels are preserved in small boxes covered with 
glass. There are here some large models of the Alps, whicli 
are elegantly executed, and interested me much. They have 
also a collection of v/ell executed plaster casts, taken in the 
galleries of the Loavre when all the statues were there. 

The weather had been cloudy for several days, and ren- 
dered mo very uneasy about my proposed excursion on foot 



NOTES OF TSAVEL. 253 

to the Oherland\ for excursions among the high Alps lose 
nearly all their interest when the mountains are enveloped 
by the dense mists that prevail here. In the afternoon how- 
ever, the thick black masses of clouds that had shrouded the 
mountains began to roll back, and the snowy whiteness of 
their brilliant tops became visible. I at once decided to de- 
part, and set out at 4 P. M. in the Diligence for Thun, where 
I arrived at 7i o'clock, and stopt at the elegant new Hotel 
de Bellevue, charmingly situated on an eminence at the head 
of the little lake of Thun. 

ISth. — I rose at 5^ o'clock, and took a long walk to see 
the village of Thun. The view from the church is very fine. 
The graves in the church-yard are marked with brass plates 
bearing inscriptions and placed on poles. At 9 A. M., I stept 
on board of the neat little steamer Belle Vue, Avhich convey- 
ed us to Unterseen, at the upper end of the lake, where we 
arrived at 11 o'clock. This is a charming little town, situa- 
ted on the banks of the Jiare^ between the two beautiful little 
lakes of Thun and Brienz, and near the village of Tnterla- 
ken, amid the most romantic scenery. From here I set out 
on foot. A guide met me yesterday at Thun as soon as I 
dismounted from the Diligence, and oifered his services. I 
was pleased v\^ith his appearance, and the intelligence of his 
countenance, and told him that if I found no face that pleased 
me better, 1 would engage him when I got to Unterseen. 
On these conditions he chose to follow me, and I employed 
him. — All the guides are under the immediate direction of 
government, and have to be licensed in order to pursue 
their responsible avocation. Of course you can rely confident- 
ly on their competency and honesty. Their pay is fixed at 
6 francs a day, for which they are obliged to conduct four 
persons. They are required to make regular reports of all 
the travellers they conduct, and to keep a book in which 
each person at the end of his journey, enters his opinion of 
the competency and conduct of the guide. I preferred enga- 
ging a guide for myself only, so that I might have the entire 
control of my time. At 1 o'clock P. M. the sun made its ap- 
pearance, I buckled my knapsack on my good man Chris- 
tianas back, took my guide-book and map in one hand, and 

18 



254 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

my Alp -staff in the other, and marched off boldly up the n>- 
mantic Lauterhrunnen Thai to the village of Lauterhrun- 
neriy situated in a horrific gorge whose sides of sterile rock 
rise perpendicularly to a dizzy height, and whose width is not 
over a few hundred yards. Almost in the village, the tor- 
rent of the Staubbach pours its waters majestically over a 
vertical precipice, from the enormous height of 800 feet ! 
In a slight breeze tlie whole stream is converted into mist 
before it reaches the profound abyss below. After resting a 
short time, to contemplate the awfully sublime scenery 
aromid us, we proceeded a league higher up the tortuous 
and narrow gorge, tasee the falls- of the Ti^emmerji-bach, 
whose waters also descend from an astounding height, and 
have worn so deep a chasm in the side of the overhanging 
lime-stone wall of the mountain, as to be entirely concealed 
from view in its lower two thirds. You can barely hear the 
water rushing down and sounding like the roar of a distant 
hm-ricane, until it issues from the deep dark cavern below,, 
with alarming impetuosity, white with foam, and rising in a 
dense spray ! Some distance above this fall, is one of those 
towering peaks of bare rock, that terminate in perfect points, 
called aiguilles or needles, resting on the very brink of the 
awful precipice that overhangs the valley, around which, 
my guide told me, a hunter of this valley clambered, a 
year or two ago. Its height cannot be less than 15 or 18- 
hundred feet ! While ascending the valley above Lauter- 
brminen, there was still some mist hanging upon the summits 
of the towering needles, that rise on every side, which gave 
them the appearance of the pillars of the firmament. Pres- 
ently the clouds rolled back, and displayed the dizzy and 
majestic pnmacles of the stupendous Alps towering thousands 
of feet above us, snow-capt and glittering in the mild rays 
of a glorious sun-set ! — The effect was almost overwelming !. 
I felt chills and flushes alternate with each other in rapid 
succession, and my heart beattumultwously with the emotion. 
We returned to our hotel in Lauterhrunnen, where I got 
an excellent dish of tea, and retired to my room. I observe 
from the window of my neatly furnished chamber, the 
stars sparkling cnchantingly in our little firmamenl,. and 



M)Ti:S OP TRAVEL. ^35 

<Dorrtrasting finely with the sombre and gigantic walls of the 
anountain masses that boimd our narrow horizon. This 
gives the earnest of a fair day to-morrow. My situation, and 
the deep-toned miasio of the rushing Staubbach, are well cal- 
•culated to induce pleasing reveries, were it not for a compa- 
ny of boisterous Englishmen, who are vociferating their 
'Bacchanalian songs over thoir wine below stairs. The ther- 
mometer at my window indicates 4^ degrees. 

19th.— Set out at 6 o'clock, after a dish of coffee, on a 
charmingly bright mornings and commenced the ascent of 
the Wengern Jilp. After following a steep and winding 
goat-path for about two hours, we attained a beautiful pla- 
teau, nearly level, backed by a gigantic mountain-wall of 
rocks, and covered with rich pasturage. On this little plain, 
is situated the straggling village of Wengern, where we re- 
posed for a short time. Here we had a grand view. Be- 
hind us, marked by a long dark line of shadow, laid the deep 
gorge of Lauterbrunnen, and beyond it, far, far beneath us 
at the foot of the beautiful Schilthorn nestled the little vil- 
lage of Mirren, on a bright green slope. Before us stood, in. 
sublime majesty, that stupendous range of glittering pinna- 
cles, comprising the Moench, the Jungfrau, the Silberhorn, the 
Mittaghorn, the Spalthorn, the Gingelhorn and Breithorn. 
The Silberhorn, although not the highest peak, is one of pe- 
culiar beauty, from the perfect symmetry of its formation and. 
the unifomity with which ii is covered with snow. Its top 
comes to a perfect point, which, as we approached it from 
the West, was magnificently illuminated by the rays of the 
morning sun, and gave it the appearance of being tipped by 
a splendid star of immense magnitude. As we were ascend- 
ing the mountain this morning, I heard what I supposed to 
be the roar of distant thunder, and called to Christian to 
know whether he thought we were going to have a storm, 
notwithstanding the bright sky above us. It is the sound of 
the avalanches, he replied, descending on the east side of the 
mountains, where they are detached by the warm rays of 
the sun. — We proceeded to a small temporary hotel near the 
top of the Wengern Alp, whence we had a full view of the 
whole mountain-chain with its stupendous needles, that 



256 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

seemed within musket-shot of us, but which my guide assu- 
red me were nearly a league distant. I found myself fre- 
quently deceived in estimating distances in these regions. I 
often thought myself within the shadow-distance of these 
colossal pyramids, when I was miles from them. This I at- 
tribute to the rarity of the atmosphere at these elevations, 
and more still to my eyes being unaccustomed to con* 
template such vast objects. We here met with a party of 
four Frenchmen, who are also travelling our route. Having 
ordered a bottle of wine, with some Swarf z-brod and Geiss- 
ksese, I took my seat on a bench at the door to watch the de- 
scent of the avalanches. The discharge of cannons is some- 
times resorted to, to loosen the masses of ice and snow by the 
concussion of the air, and for this purpose one is kept here ; 
but this we found unnecessary, as the warmth of the sun's 
rays was sufficient to bring down numbers of them. It is 
truly sublime to see the avalanches bound from the diz- 
zy peaks of these immense pyramids, and leap from preci- 
pice to precipice with the roar of heavy thunder, that makes 
the earth tremble, and send up clouds of dust that obscure 
the atmosphere ! — We set out again and proceeded to the 
highest point of the Wengern Alp, an elevation of nearly 
5000 feet. Here vegetation almost ceases, and there is noth- 
ing found but a scanty growth of low moss, and we are iu 
the immediate neighborhood of perpetual snow. The view 
from this point is sublimely grand ! The whok deep ro- 
mantic valley of the Grindelwald is embraced as far as the 
Faulhorn, and besides the needles already enumerated, are 
seen the Eiger, the Schrekhorn, the Viescherhoerner, and the 
sombre Finster Aarhorn, whose base rests amidst the eternal 
glaciers, and has never been approached by human foot, and 
probably never will be. The beautiful little village of Grin- 
dewald, looks like baby-houses set upon patch-work, and the 
streams that traverse the valley appear like strips of silver 
lace glittering in the sun-beams. We now commenced our 
descent into the valley of the Grindelwald, and soon arrived 
at Wergisthal, a village composed of Sennhiietten, (herds- 
men's shanties) in a small valley covered with rich pastur- 
age . In the spring of the year a number of families in the 



NOTES OF TRAVEL. 257 

lower vallies of the Alps, join their herds and send them, im- 
iler the care of proper attendants, to the higher regions, 
where the pasture is very abimdant and of a choice kind. 
These attendants build Sennhuetten, in which they reside 
during the summer months, and prepare cheese from the 
milk they obtain from their herds. In the autumn they 
return to their abodes in the vallies, carrying with them 
their summer's produce of cheese. The departure of the 
herds in the spring is quite a fete it is said. One of the cows, 
(an old, experienced, and sedate one) that has been trained 
to come at the sound of the Alp horn, (a great tin horn, six 
or seven feet long) is chosen as the matron of the flock, and 
is furnished with an enormous copper bell, as large as a hat, 
suspended from her neck. She is gaily decked with garlands 
of flowers, and driven in front, a.nd all the rest are taught 
to follow the sound of her great bell. Now there are other 
dignitaries of less rank, who wear smaller bells and are also 
decorated with flowers, and their inferiors are likewise 
taught to follow them, and thus the v/liole troop is organized. 
Here we stopt to gQi a dish of strawberries and cream, and 
see the process of making cheese. Y/e now turned to the 
right, and went out of our wa}^ several miles to visit the Up- 
per Glacier of the Grindelwald. It descends low into the 
valley, and it was a novelty for me to see a luxuriant vegeta- 
tion and- immense masses of ice in immediate contiguity. I 
gathered some specimens of plants that bloomed almost un- 
der the edge of the glacier. From a wide and deep cavern 
in the extremity of the glacier, issues a large stream of wa- 
ter. Here we found a man who gets a fev/ Batzen from 
travellers by conducting them into this icy vault. 1 declined 
trusting myself however, under so brittle a material, not- 
withstanding the glowing account he gave of its beauties. 
I found the temperature of the air Jiere to be 47§ degrees, 
and that of the water 32, which continued the same at the 
distance of ^ a mile from the glacier, and at the distance of 
3 miles, it had risen but 8 degrees. We now made our way 
to the village of Grindelwald and stopt at the Hotel de 
rOurs. As 1 was sitting down to dinner, one of the servants 
came to the back of my chair, and asked whether I was x\\q 



25& VOTES OT TRAVUZ. 

American Doctor ? I started at the question, and enqmre^ 
who kneAv me liere ? He replied that one of my country men 
had sent for me from the other hotel, and desired to see me.. 
I felt very curious, as you may suppose, to learn who should 
know me in this sequestered place, in the midst of the moun- 
tains of Switzerland. Immediately after dinner, I went to 
the hotel, and was met Avith many excuses hy a gentleman- 
ly young man, who introduced himself as Mr. Brun from 
Baltimore. He told me that his lady was taken sick some 
time previously, and he wished to consult me in her case- 
She had however fallen asleep, and I requested that sha 
should not be disturbed, after I had learned from the history 
he gave me, that the danger ef her ease had passed e^ver, and 
left him with a promise to call in the morning. He had 
learned my name- and professiodi from the register. 

20th> — Left our hotel at Grindelwald at 6i A. M., and 
called on my patient Mrs. Brun. She passed, a comfortable- 
night, and I fansied was much benefitted by the concurrence 
of my opinion with that ©.f her attending ph ysicans, that she 
was out of danger, and only required sest to be entirely re- 
stored. After turning aside to take a look at the church, we 
took our course toward the Great Scheideg:, which laid be- 
fore us. We soon overtook our French acquaintances, whom 
I faund very agreeable, particularly one of them, who was. 
a botanist. — Some distance beyond Grindelwald, we met a 
party of two French gentleman and two ladies, who were des- 
cending from the FauUwrn. On gaining the summit of the 
Scheideg, elevated 4500 feet, we had another magnificent 
view of the valley behind us, and the majestic Alps we pas- 
sed yesterday. In descending on the other side, our path 
led us into the Scfiwtirzwaldj a dense pine forest,, thickly 
hmig with long festoons of gray moss, that shut out the light 
and rendered it very solemn. Passing out of it, we found 
ourselves at the foot of another colossal needle, called the 
Wetterhorn. As we had preceded oiu: companions, we 
concluded to sit down and await them. ."My guide, castings 
his eye upon the mountain, cried out : '^vodla line grande^ 
evala7iche,^' and, without permitting him to finish his sen- 
tence, I demanded "where? where ?"—"0,'* said he, "it's. 



NOTES OF TRAVElrt ♦^Sd 

'going to come." With some little feeling of petulance, I 
asked how he knew it. He then pointed out to me a long 
fissure in the ice, near the very pinnacle of the mountain, 
which I was ahle to trace very distinctly by the aid of my 
glass. I placed however, no great confidence in his predic- 
tion, and took a seat ; but in less than ten minutes he cried 
out "/a voila! la voilaP^ I looked to the spot, and saw a 
stupendous mass moving. It descended with fearful violence, 
leaping over the sides of th« mountain and bounding from 
precipice to precipice, raising dense clouds of dust, and making 
the mountains and hollow vallies reverberate with its deaf- 
ening thunder, which continued long after we had lost sight 
of the gigantic mass ! A spectacle of greater sublimity I nev^ 
er witnessed.— Several of our xiompanions, who were still 
immersed in the pine-forest, were -exceedingly alarmed, for 
they heard the tremendous thunder of the avalanche, with- 
out being able to see it. — We proceeded to the sulphurous 
baths of Rosenlaid, where we halted to take some refresh- 
ment. Near this is a beautiful cascade called Chute SuperU 
eure du Reichenbach, At some distance below Rosenlaui, 
in the direction of the Scheideg, is the most perfectly beauti- 
ful and picturesque view I have ever beheld. Before you 
is the snow-capt Wellhorn, rising to a perfect point in the 
centre, the glacier of Rosenlaui a little to the left coming 
down from the gorges of the many-horned Engelhorn, in the 
centre two little monticules of perfect symmetry, and clothed 
to their tops with dark, green pines touching the very 
glaciers, and the rushing noisy torrent of the Reichenbach 
tumbling from between them. At a short distance below 
this, is seen the little brook of the Selihach^ descending beau- 
tifully, like silver eords, from the dizzy height above. Pro- 
ceeding somewhat farther down this romantic little valley, 
my guide turned abruptly to the right into a pretty grass-plot, 
and conducted me to a small octagonal pavillion furnished 
with seats, and pointed below us. I was overwhelmed with 
the perfect beauty of the scene ! Far, far below us, and al- 
most under our feet, extended the enchanting valley of the 
Aare, cultivated like a garden and traversed by the sparkling 
waters of that beautiful stream, with the peaceful little village 

18* 



260 » NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

of Meyringen in its centre ! How finely this contrasted with 
the wild and savage scenes we had passed throngh to-day ! 
After descending a precipitous path for some distance, we 
turned suddenly to the left into an extensive pasture-ground, 
and re-ascended by a very steep road, sometimes by steps, 
until we got to a small house situated on the brink of the 
horrific chasm into which the Reichenbach falls from a dizzy 
height above. This is a magnificent fall, whose sheet of wa- 
ter is 20 or 30 feet wide, and its whole height is about 300 
feet. After having examined the falls and regaled ourselves 
with a glass of ^'-lemonade gazeuse,^^ we descended to the 
village of Meyrmgen, and took lodgings at the Hotel de 
Sauvage. 

It is usual, in approaching Swiss villages to be met by 
young women, dressed in the pecuhar costume of the place, 
who play on an instrument called a Zither, a kind of guitar, 
and sing, for which they expect a few batzen. They afford- 
ed me much pleasure and amusement, and I finally became 
quite a connoissuer in Kuehreihen, 

2 1st. — After a sound night's rest, and a dish of coflfee, 
we set out from Meyringen at 6 A. M. to visit the Grimsel. 
Soon after we got out of the village, we crossed the Aare 
several times on wooden bridges, and entered the Oberhasli- 
thal, a narrow and tortuous valley bounded by the most stu- 
pendous mountains, and traversed its whole length by the 
Aare. We soon passed the little hamlet of Imhoden, situa- 
ted on a small plain, surrounded by walls of naked rocks, 
which was evidently at one time a lake. We proceeded a» 
far as Gitttannen, situated in another of those plains cov- 
ered v\^ith pasturage, where we halted to take some refresh- 
ment. This is the last place habitable during the winter 
months. The scenery has been growing more and more 
wild as we advance. — W^e set out again and, after crossing 
the Aare several times on well-built stone foot-bridges, wo^ 
proceeded by a painful and narrow mule-path, along frightful 
pricipices to a desert and wild place in a stunted forest, cal- 
led the Handeck, where is a small shanty kept as a liotel. 
Here we stopt to get a glass of Kirschioasser, and to see 
the magnificent fall of the Aare, where the Erlenhach joins 



NOTES OF TRAVEL. 261 

it. There is a tottering rough wooden bridge thrown over 
the streams, just where they unite to take the fearful leap in- 
to the dark deep chasm below. Upon this I ventured to fol- 
low my guide with fear and trembling, in order to get a view 
of the awful gulph beneath. Its depth is 200 feet, and the 
whole of the waters being condensed into a narrow stream, 
are precipitated into it without touching before they reach 
the bottom ! The boiling, and foaming, and roaring is truly 
terrific, and makes the earth tremble ! It is called the En- 
fer d? cau, the hell of waters. — Here I thought we had a,t- 
tained the climax of awfully wild and savage scenery ; but 
not so : — vegetation began to grow more and more stunted ; 
the precipices rose higher and higher ; their walls became, in 
stead of perpendicular, overhanging ; the abysses beneath us 
became darker and deeper; the waters below roared and 
. foamed with greater impetuosity; the incredible masses of 
rocks brought down by the avalances became larger and 
more frequent ; vegetation ceased ; the granite rocks were 
naked and barren ; we were in the midst of enormous masses 
of ice that had fallen from the snow-capt peaks, through 
which the stream had worn immense tunnels ; all was a scene 
of the most terrific desolation such as was never conjured up 
in the fevered or the phrensied brain ! !-^My emotions I will 
not attempt to portray. — My guide finally made an abrupt 
turn to the left, and we began to ascend a painful path, some- 
times on steps, leading up an enormous mound that had been 
formed by a tremendous avalanche, when suddenly we 
reached the top, and there was a long, low stone building 
situated at the head of the lake of crystal water, surrounded 
by vast peaks of barren granite rocks, glaciers and detached 
masses of snow and ice ; — ^this was the Hopital du Grimsel, 
elevated 5600 feet. It is kept as a place of entertainment 
for travellers, and we found delightful accomodations. Here 
I met with an Irish gentleman and his lady, who had just 
returned from the Sidelhorn. The lady furnished me with 
several specimens of rare plants for my collection. After an 
excellent dinner of chamois-meat, (la vey^itablej and a dish 
of excellent green tea after it, I retired to bed, wishing the 
avalanches a quiet night^s rest, for one of them, perhaps 



2&3 KOTES OT TRAVEI., 

Startled in its sleep, tumbled down but a short time ago and 
nearly demolished the house. 

Part of the path we passed over to day was really danger- 
ous. It was often not more than 16 or 18 inches wide, with 
an overhanging precipice on one side and a fathomless abyss 
on the other. At one place, it led over what is called the 
Hoellenplattey an immense extent of granite rock above a 
horrific precipice, toward which it is inclined, like the side 
of a roof The only protection against falling over the 
eaves are superficial crevices chiseled into the rock, to give 
a foot-hold. Not far above the Handec^, we crossed the 
Aare twice on elevated stone foot-bridges. And here also is 
another wild and romantic fall in the stream. The lower 
parts of these mountains, as is usual on the North side of the 
Alps, are formed of compact limestone, and the upper parts 
of granitic. 

22d. — We rose at 5 o'clock, and after a dish of cofi'ee, 
left the Grimsel at 6. We had not yet attained the highest 
point of elevation, and commenced our toilsome and difficult 
ascent, often by steps cut into the rocks or over extensive 
flat and slippery surfaces, which were frequently so much 
inclined as to render a foothold extremely uncertain. These 
difficulties were enhanced by a dense mist, that eveloped 
the mountain, but fortunately our direction was marked by 
high stakes that were put up for this purpose. Nothing can 
exceed the awful desolateness of this barren and icy region. 
Finally we attained the top, and to my great surprise found 
a small lake of clear water covering an extent of 6 or 8 acres. 
Its waters are discharged on the South side into the Rhone. 
Proceeding some distance farther, sometimes on the ice and 
snow, and sometimes on strips of soil, we saw the Rhone near 
its source, far, fai- beneath us, like a strip of silver lace. Our 
road now laid along the South side of the Grimsel,by a goat 
path, and often no path at all, over a soil that seemed like a 
quick sand, on the very brink of an inclination of 55 degrees 
extending to the depth of nearly a mile, without a rock, or a 
tree, or a shrub to break the frightful line of descent. My 
head began to reel with vertigo, objects become dim before 
me, my knees grew weak, and I was obliged to sit down- 



NOTES OF TRAVEL. 263 

I called to my guide, who was in advance of me, made him 
take the end of my Alp-stafF, and I kept my eyes steadily 
fixed upon him. Thus I proceeded with the most uncomforta- 
ble feelings, until we approched the great Glacier of the 
Rhone, at the bottom of the valley. The features of the 
mountains are changed altogether on this side. Instead of 
the abrupt precipices, naked rocks and towering needles, 
their tops are rounded and their sides covered with a barren 
gravel soil. The Glacier of the Rhone is one of the largest 
and most magnificent of Switzerland. Its breadth is several 
miles, and the ice is supposed to be three or four hundred feet 
thick. There is a very fine vault of ice at its termination^ 
whence the Rhone takes it source. Here is a shanty, in- 
which refreshments are kept, and we stopt to repose, and got 
a lunch of bread and cheese. We crossed the Rhone on a 
log, and, winding round the edge of the glacier, turned off 
into a narrow valley bearing Eastward. Here I found a 
number of fine specimens of plants for my Herbarium. We 
soon approached the mighty barrier of the Fm^ka, whose 
rugged sides we began to ascend slowly and painfully, un- 
der a cold pelting rain, with a strong wind in our faces. 
After a long and unpleasant march, we reached its dreary 
top amid the clouds and great masses of perpetual ice. And 
now came the no less toilsome and more dangerous descent. 
Our road laid along sidling places, sometimes on worn goat- 
paths, with frightful precipices above and below us, some- 
times over granite boulders now rendered slippery by the 
rain, and sometimes over great piles of ice and snow. In 
this descent I was again seized with the disagreeable affec- 
tion of vertigo. It was with the most comfortable and grate- 
ful feelings, that I found myself in the narrow valley of Ur- 
sern Thai, on the head waters of the river Reuss. We came 
on to the little village of Realp, where we turned into the 
monastery, and got an excellent bottle of wine with bread 
and honey, and had our flask filled with superior kirschwas- 
ser. We set out again with renewed strength, and after sev- 
eral hours march, arrived at the village of Hopital, at the 
foot of St. Gotthart, and took lodgings at the Leon d* Or, 
I here made a bargain with a coachman to take me to Alt- 
dorf to-movvow. 



364 NOTES OF TRAVEL. 

23d. — I rose at 5, and set out at 6 o'clock for Altdorf, in a 
hack. At a short distance from Hopital, is the pretty vil- 
lage of Jinderinatt, romantically situated at the foot of an 
enormous mountain-pyramid, called the Kilcherberg, backed 
by a beautiful thick pine forest — which is preserved with 
great care, to protect the town against avalanches. Here we 
crossed a small stream and entered the frightful gorge of 
Schoellenen^ whose scenery for wildness and sublimity is ex- 
ceeded by none in Switzerland. After passing tlirough the 
magnificent tunnel of Vrnerloch, 200 feet long and 30 wide, 
we came to the famous Font du Diable, a superb bridge of a 
single arch thrown over the Reuss, where this river falls 100 
feet perpendicularly. The thundering roar of the waters 
that makes the mighty mountains quiver, with the horrific 
wildness of the surrounding scenery, is indescribably sub- 
lime I Indeed, almost the whole distance, from the Urner- 
loch to the frightful gorge of the Pfaffen Sprung, a distance 
of several leagues, is a continuous succession of falls in the 
Reuss, whose waters boil and foam, and whirl until the sight 
of them makes one dizzy ! This road, like that of the Sim- 
plon, is an astonishing exhibhion of the skill and ingenuity of 
the human intellect. The perfection of its construction amid 
such difficulties, seems almost superhuman. Between An- 
dermatt and Amstaeg there are eight superb stone bridges, the 
arches of some of which rise to tiie height of more than 
80 feet. 

We stopped at Amstseg, opposite the small valley of 
Maderaner, the birth-place of William Tell. The spot is oc- 
cupied by a small chapel. In the main street of Altdorf, the 
place is marked by two fountains where William Tell shot 
the apple from his son's head. From this place we had a 
short ride to Fluelen, on the lake of the Four Cantons, 
where we embarked at 11 A. M. on board of the steamboat 
for JFeggis, a small town at the foot of the Rigi. On board 
of the boat, I again met with the Irish gentleman and his 
lady, (Mr. Tighe, of Woodstock,) whose acquaintance I had 
made on the Grimsel. Lady Louisa was sketching the 
town and port. I here also fell in again with our young 
countryman, Mr. Olmstead, who agreed to accompany me 



NOTES or TRAVEL. 265 

on the Rigi. — Our voyage over the'bright and placid surface 
of the Lake of the Four Cantons, surrounded by some of the 
most picturesque and beautiful scenery in the world, was 
perfectly enchanting. We passed the Tellen Platte, an im- 
mense flat rock at the foot of the Axenherg, where Tell esca- 
ped from Gessler by springing out of the boat and sending it 
adrift on the lake. To commemorate the event, a chapel is 
built on the spot. Nearly opposite is Gruetli, marked by a 
small house erected over three springs by the late king of 
Prussia, who purchased the ground, where the three brave 
Swiss confederates took the Bundeseid, (the oath of confede- 
racy.) At 3 P. M. we arrived at Weggis at the foot of the 
Rigi, almost within the shadow of the mighty Pilatusberg, 
towering nearly 6000 feet above us. We at once commen- 
ced the ascent of the Rigi, and arrived at the Kulvi, (its 
highest point) about 6 o'clock. When we had attained about 
half the distance, we entered a thick mass of clouds and had 
some rain, but Ave soon got above them, where the sun 
shone, and we saw them rolling majestically at our feet. As 
the ch?.pel of Notre Dame des Neiges is a place to which 
pilgrimages are performed, we met numerous crosses erected 
on the side of the path. The whole of the mountain, from 
the base to the top, is composed of a caicarious pudding 
stone. The cement is red, and the rounded pebbles are 
white, sometimes gray, which has given - origin to the 
fanciful appellation oi Naglefiuh, as the worn rocks are of- 
ten roughened by the projection of the harder pebbles which 
are supposed to resemble large heads of nails. The caicari- 
ous disintegration forms a very productive soil, and pasture 
is very abundant. For this reason the mountain is covered 
with Sennehuetten, in which large quantities of cheese are 
made. The Rigi is less celebrated for its elevation, which is 
about 4000 feet, than for the extent and magnificence of the 
prospect obtained from it. This is admitted to be unrivalled 
by anything in the world, owing to the pecuhar position of 
the mountain, which stands forth like a mighty pyramid at 
the termination of the High Alps, as they recede toward the 
plain. After a hasty view of the stupendous prospect, we 
went to the Hotel du Kxdm, an excellent house, where we 



ii66 NOTES OP TRAVEL. 

found a great number of ladies and gentlemen from nearly all 
parts of the world. I took a dish of excellent tea, and spent 
the evening very agreeably, in the great saloon, among the 
Babel that had here collected, and then went to the guide's 
room, (who have always a separate apartment specially pro- 
vided for them in all the Alpine hotels) to see them dance, 
and to hear them sing, and tell stories and anecdotes. I was 
obliged to keep my man Christian by my side, to act as inter- 
terpreter, for I understood their dialect but imperfectly. They 
were exceedingly merry and amusing, and held a kind of 
farewell frolic before departing to their homes, as the close of 
the travelling season was now at hand. We were among 
the last parties that ascended the Rigi for the season. There 
is perhaps not to be found so calming, so delightfully sooth- 
ing a cordial as a dish of good green tea, when the body is 
excessively fatigued by clambering all day over rocks and 
mountains, and when the mind has fallen into that peculiar 
state of restless excitability, from a continued succssion of the 
deepest emotions. I retired at a late hour, hoping for a clear 
sun-rise, for that is the moment when this sublime prospect is 
seen to the greatest advantage. I was told that if the morn- 
ing were clear, I should be awakened by the sound of the 
Alphorn. 

24th. — At 5 o'clock A. M. I heard the long and varied 
blasts of the Alp-horn, whose pleasing sounds reverberated 
delightfully along the great mountain-chain. Their clearness- 
and distinctness were greatly enhanced by the dense air of a 
sharp, frosty morning. I rose, dressed hastily and ascended 
the highest pinnacle of the Kulm, where I found most of our 
guests already assembled, wrappedin cloaks, shawls, blankets 
and quilts ; for the morning was as cold as oue in January. 
The sky was clear, except in the East at a considerable 
distance above the mountain-bound horizan, where stretched 
a heavy mass of clouds from the No-rthand South, which was 
already purpled by the morning rays. Presently the sun rose 
in all his splendour, and displayed a scene of magnificent 
grandeur which must be seen to be appreciated I To the 
South-West stood the mighty ice-clad pinnacles of the Ober- 
land, like pyramids of molten gold, whose dazzling surfaces 



KOTES OP TRAVEX. t67 

were beautifully relieved by the dark shadows of the long 
deep vallies ; — to the West, the horizon was terminated by 
the long line of the Jura mountains ; bounding one of the 
richest portions of the globe^ — while to the North stretched a 
boundless scene of unrivalled magnificence. Lakes and ri- 
vers, hills and vallies, rich vineyards and dark forests, cities 
and villages, countiy -houses and beautiful villas, all blended 
in the most charming harmony ! Seventeen lakes are visible 
from the Rigi. On the bosoms of many of them, rested a 
mist which appeared like fleecy clouds, often tinged with a 
delicate violet colour, running into pink. Immediately at our 
feet to the East, and} beneath the tremendo-us precipice on 
which we are placed, lies the peaceful little town of ./^r^, at 
the head of the lake of Zug.. A little to the left of this is the 
Rossber^, from which a fearful avalanche descended some 
years ago, and overwhelmed the unfortunate village of Gol- 
dau, burying four or five hundred of its inhabitants in the 
ruins. 

After breakfast we commenced out descent tO' the North 
Ml the direction of Kuesnact. The mountain on. this side is 
very steep, and the path difficult. On our way to- Lucem\ 
and near the foot of the mountain, we passed through the 
Hohle Gasse, a narrow valley in which Tell waylaid Gessler, 
and shot him. A ehapel is- erected upon the spot with ^the 
following inscription painted over the door r- 
"Ge&sleis Hochmu^h Tell erschossen^ 
Und edler Schweitzer Freyheit entsprossen :• — 
Wie lang^wird aber solcher. vvseren'? 
Noch kng wenn wk die A-lten waeren." 
We arrived in Lucern about noon, and took lodgings at 
the Balances. The city contains between 6 and 7,000 inha- 
bitants, makes an imposing appearance and looks larger at 
a distance than it really is. There are three or four covered 
bridges across the Reuss, which are very curiously decorated 
with paintings interiorly. The pictures represent, among 
other subjects, illustrations of scriptural history, and the ear- 
ly history of Switzerland, One of them contains upwards of 
200 pieces, painted on wood. The greatest curiosity at Lu- 
cern is the Colossal Lion, modelled by Thorwaldsen, and 
executed by Ahorh,in commemoration of the members of the 



*68 KOTES OF TRAVEL. 

Swiss guard of Louis XVI, who fell in defence of the Tuille- 
ries on the 10th of August, 1792. It is cut in the perpendic- 
ular face of a rock composing the moimtain behind the city. 
It represents a lion in alto-relievo, measuring 28 feet in 
length and IS in height, in the agonies of death, pierced by 
a spear which is broken off, his body fallen upon a shield, 
embossed with Jleurs de lis, with his paw raised in the atti- 
tude of warding off another blow. The expression of the 
lion is admirable. Underneath are the words ; — Helvetio- 
Tum Jidei ac Virtuti. In front of the figure are pretty 
grounds, shaded with trees, and furnished with seats, and the 
mountain over it is romantically covered with trees, flowers 
and shrubbery. At its base is a pretty little chapel with the 
words Invictis Pax engraved upon its entrance. Engraved 
on the rock under the figure are the names of the officers of 
the guard. The armory is a place well worthy of a visit. 
In it are preserved the sword of William Tell and the armour 
of Zwinglius. 

25th. — I bid farewell to my excellent guide. Christian Mi- 
chael, after giving him a flattering certificate, and set out at 
12 M. by the Diligence for Zuerich, in company with INIr. 
Olmstead. We passed along the Reuss for a considerable dis- 
tance, and over a finely cultivated country interspersed with 
pretty towns and villages, and arrived at Zuerich about 8 
o'clock in the evening. We lodged at the Grand Hotel 
Baiir, one of the best kept houses on the Continent. — Zue- 
rich is among the prettiest cities of Switzerland. It contains 
about 20,000 inhabitants and is situated on both banks of the 
Limmat and partly on the borders of the Lake of Zuerich, 
at the point wliere this river issues from the lake. Two 
considerable mountains which form a deep, narrow val- 
ley, bound the city on either side, and aflbrd some of the 
finest walks and most picturesque views in Switzerland. 
One of the walks on the banks of the Limmat is also of pecu- 
liar beauty. It extends to the confluence of the Sihl with 
the former river, in a delightfully shaded wood, where a 
monument is erected to Gessner. The Lindenhof, a terrace 
elevated more then 100 feet above the Limmat, and sliaded 
with majestic linden-trees, forms a charming promenade. 



NOTES OF TRAVEL. 26d 

26th. — I rose at 6 o'clock, and accompanied by Mr. 01m- 
stead, breakfasted at the Caffe Scrfron. The morning was 
spent in roaming at random through this curious old city, 
and in hunting out some of the most interesting walks and 
views. The afterpart of the day turned out to be rainy, and 
I spent it in my room writing letters. As I shall soon leave 
Switzerland to go into Bavaria, I bethought myself of having 
my passport signed by some agent of that government. I 
learned that there was no Consul here, and that all the min- 
isters from foreign courts to this country reside in Bern. 
I therefore wrote a polite note, enclosing my courier's pass- 
port, and addressed it to the Bavarian embassage in the lat- 
ter city, requesting that it should be forwarded to me at 
Schaffhausen. 

26th. — I rose at 6 o'clock, took breakfast at the Caffe 
Safron, and went oiit to make some purchases of engravings 
&c., and then we paid a visit to the Library. It contains 
60,000 volumes, and is rich in manuscripts. There are here 
a very old Quintilian beautifully written in gold and silver 
letters on violet coloured parchment ; some original letters of 
Lady Jane Gray in Latin ; the Greek Bible of Zwinglius with 
notes in his own hand ; an English Bible in black letter, print- 
ed here in 1652. Here are also an original portrait of Zwing- 
lius, and some splendid models of the Alps, executed with 
great skill. 

The Museum of Natural History is rich and well kept. 
It contains many interesting fossils from the vicinity. As I 
came out from dinner to-day, I was told that a lady awaited 
me on the balcony. You may imagine my surprise at 
who should know me in Zuerich. I went up and found a 
lady, who asked a thousand pardons for thus calling on a 
perfect stranger, but excused herself by paying a very 
pretty compliment to the profession, saying that she presumed 
upon the universally acknowledged benevolence of physicians 
in the freedom she had taken. She appeared in great dis- 
tress about some of her relations settled in Philadelphia, of 
whom she had had no information for a long time. I hap- 
pened to have some knowledge of the respectable house of 
T. & D.^ which was a great relief to her. She had aScer- 

19 



270 KOTES OJ TRAVEL. 

tained my country and profession from the register of the 
Hotel. 

This afternoon I went to hear Prof. Lebisr^s lecture on 

o 

chemistry. I experienced some difliculty in following him. 
He requires ail his pupils to take notes, which are written 
out fully at their leisure, and upon them they are rigidly ex- 
amined. The Professor politely invited me to call on him at 
5 o'clock, to show me the new college edifice. This is a 
spacious building, whose arrangements appear to be admira- 
ble, situated a short distance beyond the city. 
The evening I spent at the fair, one of the regular semi-annual 
ones held in this city. It was held on one of the long pro- 
menades, under booths erected for the purpose. Immense 
quanthies of goods of all possible descriptions were exposed 
for sale, and the numerous grotesque groups in the most 
varied and singular costumes, formed a picture of extraor- 
dinar}' variety and animation. One of the booths appeared 
particularly attractive, in which some three or four plump 
Dutch girls in their Hollandish costume, vrere driving an 
excellent business at baking and vending waffles. These 
cakes I presume, are of Dutch origin. 

28TH.^Rose at 5, packed my tournister, breakfasted at 
the Caffe Litlraire, and set out at 9 for Schaffhaiisen, in the 
Diligence, where we arrived at 2 P. M. and stopt at the Fau- 
con (T Or. The soil of the country passed over to-day, is 
poor, but admirably cuUivated. I observed the peasants in 
many places working their cows. At the village Eglisan I 
obtained the first view of old Vatei^ Rhein, where we crossed 
it on a fine bridge. After taking a hasty dinner at Schaif- 
hausen, we went down to the river, and took a small boat, 
which in twenty minutes landed us at the Chateau of Lauf- 
en just above the great fall of the Rhine. We descended to 
a small pavilion, placed on the brink of the precipice, in an 
admirable situation for seeing it, where we paid our franc and 
inscribed our names on the register. The height is 70 feet, 
and the sheet of water is divided by three or four elevated 
rocks. The whole certainly forms a spectacle ot much gran- 
deur. We crossed the river in a small boat just below the 
falls in order to get a belter view of them, and returned to 



•. 



NOTES OF TRAVEL. 271 



the city by way of Neuhausen. We overtook a German la- 
dy and gentleman, whom I had seen at the Hotel Baur in 
Zuerich, who were very agreeable, and also put up at our 
hotel here. On my return I took a dish of tea, and spent a 
few hours in agreeable conversation with my new acquaint- 
ances. They both understood English, which is a common 
accomplishment among Germans, I find. 

29th. — 1 rose at 5 o'clock, and accompanied my young 
friend, Mr. Olmstead, to the Dihgence Office, who leaves me 
this morning for Basel. After breakfast I called on the Rev, 
Mr. Maur 67'- Const ant, who has a delightful residence in the 
country just beyond the city. It is the practice in this coun- 
try, where there are many families of the same name, to add 
a second surname to disthiguish the particular branch of the 
family. It is also common to choose the wife's name for the 
addition, as in the case of Mr. Maurer, whose wife's name 
was Constant. I was delighted with his unaifected sim- 
plicity and kindness. He took me to see their Library, which, 
though well selected, is not extensive. There are here a 
number of the oldest printed Avorks, and the manuscript notes 
of the celebrated and industrious historian Von Mueller. He 
left me with an invitation to tea, which I accepted. 

After dinner, I strolled at random through the city. It 
contains 7,500 inhabitants, and is built upon a hill on the 
right bank of the Rhine. The streets are wide, .well-paved 
and clean, and the houses are lofty and substantially built. 
Most of them are stuccoed, and painted in a kind of fresco 
externally. These paintings generally represent animals, 
and to them the house is dedicated in large letters. Thus 
you have the house zurti Hirsch, zum Bser, zum Gems, 
&c. &c. Some of them are finely grouped, and exceedingly 
well drawn. Many of the houses are also furnished with 
small glazed balconies projecting from the second stories, 
which resemble in shape the small box pulpits in old 
churches. They are so placed, that one can see from 
them all that passes throughout the whole length of the 
street. 

Mr. Maurer-Constant called for me at the Hotel, and took 
me to see a curious old square castle, built in the loth 



NOTES OP TRAVITL. 



century. From this we went, to his house, whore he intro- 
duced me to his^wife, an accompiished French iady, aiid to a 
young English lady, the daughter of one of their friends. 
A dish -of esicellent tea, with bread and butter and grapes, 
were served up in the simplest manner, on a table without a 
cl(^tii. This simplicity, which I found common in*Switzer- 
ieaid, pleased me much. We then retired to the library, 
where the evening was spent in delightful conversation'. 
Miss Emma, the English lady, speaks German like a Saxon, 
and is tolerably conversant with French. She also played 
a number of pretty Swiss airs on th3 piano. I left my ex- 
cellent friends at a late hour, with the warmest feelings of 
2;ratitude. When I "returned to my Hotel, 1 found my pass- 
port, accompanied by a very polite note stating that a couri- 
er's passport required no signature fpj, Bavaria, and that it 
was perfectly en re^lc- — I shall now make a tour through 
German/, and return home through Belgium,- France and 
Enfffand. 



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